Tag Archives: Vintage Cars

1973 Mustang SportsRoof 63D vs. Mach I 63R Body Style

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As I shelter in place during the 2020 CoVid19 historic event (why didn’t they call  it CovVid2020?  that would have been cool…actually I really don’t care. m) I pondered many things.  One of the most important ponderings (not a word) was the difference in body styles of the 1973 Mustangs like #ProjectSportRoof (#SR73).

According the all the numbers and confirmed by my Marti Reports  (plug – the folks at Marti Auto Works are have access to soooo much Ford (and other brands) information.  I always get their full set of reports and invoices/window stickers/data plates etc for my cars.  That includes for my 1970 Mustang Coupe, my 2004 Ford SportTrac (pickup) and my 1973 SportsRoof – if you’ve never heard of them #1 Where you’ve been? and # 2 – Here ya go – https://www.martiauto.com.) #ProjectSportsRoof is a SportsRoof, not a Mach I.    It’s body code is a 63D.  As far as numbers goes that’s a good thing if you want/like unique.  With only just over 10k produced (10,820 to be exact)  my #SR73  is the lowest production body style for the last year of the Big Stangs. And we all know that – low production equals rare and rare equals more desire and more desire equals more value. (It doesn’t really – at least not always and not in this case…yet…check with me in about 100 years.)  Just to give you the rest of the data, Mach I’s (body style 63R) numbers are over 35k – the 2nd highest.  First highest is 2dr hard top (body style 65D) at 51,480, followed by Grande (body style 65F) at just over 25k, and by then the Convertible, body style 76D at 11,953. 

The fact that there are different designations for the body styles (back to my pondering) what is the difference?  I’m looking for the answers for at least the my 63D vs. 63R.  Maybe even the  between Grande (65F) and the 2dr hardtop (65D). 

I think it would be “nice to know info”.  For example all the welds on the SportsRoof were done by blind, one armed welders, using a mirror. (that’s not true…I don’t think!)  I’d like to know that.   There’s one response suggesting that they have a “…unique body code due to the added standard features.”  Which is not specific enough.   My SportsRoof came with Mach 1 interior package and slotted aluminum wheels those could be add by checking a box when ordering. 

So I’ll keep send out quires and see if I can get anything more refined. 

But the fact that my body designation is unique is cool.  I have a habit of selecting unique cars.  My 1970 Mustang was one of only about 11k produced that year, last of the medium sized Stangs.  My 1984 Corvette was first year unique, for body style, engine, Z51 suspension and lowest drag coefficient windshield up to that point (yes…really). 

If you think you know or have a guess drop me a note and I’ll update this post, or write a new one with and update. 

Thanks for checking.  Drop me a note!! 

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof   #SR73

#ProjectSportsRoof – 1973 SportsRoof #SR73

 

EPIC MOMENT – #PROJECTSPORTSROOF MEETS #PROJECTBEEPBEEP IN THE SAME AIR SPACE

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The title should say it all!!

Bill stopped by and we tweaked the timing and carb on #ProjectSportsRoof.

For the first time the stars of this blog are in the same Air Space!

Check it out!


It was a good day. The tweak smoothed out the new carb and I don’t think I ever saw Bill this happy working on BeebBeep. It must be he’s really a Ford guy at heart (Oh his daily driver – A MUSTANG!!).

 

Thanks for checking in!

Tim

Auto Parts Stores and Auto Parts Clerks…Are there any good ones left?

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I remember when you could go into a auto parts store and the clerks knew something about cars.

When I was a kid (back in the early 1970’s) my Dad owned a body shop. I’d work there on weekends (for …”the roof over you head”) and summers.  I learned a lot about cars and enjoyed it (most of it).  One of the coolest things was heading over the automotive parts and paint places.  So much cool stuff to look at, paint books with paint chips in them, tools and gadgets. You could talk for an hour about the cars you were working on.  If you asked a question they normally had a useful answer. If you wanted advice you would get some, sometime even if you did ask there was a good chance you’d get some.  NAPA was big back then and had paint as well.

Those places are long gone now, mostly.  Now no one has the parts in stock and worse most of the clerks have no idea about car parts (insert Rock Auto theme song) and there is nearly 100% reliance on a computer. There is just no way a parts clerk should utter the phrase “I can order it.” Oh and talk about your car project?…’fer getta bou it’!

This whine is was brought about by my recent purchase of a fuel pump for #ProjectSportsRoof (my 1973 351 Cleveland powered Mustang). 

Normally, I don’t use names of companies but I’m going to now.

I purchased the Speedmaster  fuel pump from Summit Racing Equipment.  Speedmaster also has their own site where they sell these as well.

Specs:

Brand: Speedmaster

Manufacturer’s Part Number: PCE146-1014

Part Type: Fuel Pumps

Product Line: Procomp Electronics High-Volume Mechanical Fuel Pumps

Summit Racing Part Number: SDM-PCE146-1014

UPC: 840136507376

Fuel Pump Type: Mechanical

Flow Rate: 115 gph/435 lph

Fuel Pressure (psi): 6 psi

Fuel Pressure Regulator Included: No

Sending Unit Included: No

Inlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT  —not

Inlet Quantity: One

Inlet Attachment: Female threads

Outlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT —not

Outlet Quantity: One

Outlet Attachment: Female threads

Gasket Included: No    -actually yes 2 gaskets

Wiring Harness Included: No

Mounting Bracket Included: No

Mounting Hardware Included: No

Pulley Included: No


The pump is designed to be configurable to give the best fit possible.  The pump showed up with no fittings – which I guess it normal now days.  It also showed up with no instructions.  Just the pump in the box and two gasket stuck under the bottom box flap.  Instruction would have been nice if I need to swivel the IN/OUT.

I didn’t think the hardware would be a problem I could use the male end from the old pump and pick up the other at a local parts store.  I figured that I’d double check their site for instructions just in case I need anything different, after all this pump pushed a bunch more fuel then the OEM version.

I went to Speedmaster’s web site and looked up the pump and clicked the instructions link.  Nothing happened.  I called the company to see if they could email me instructions.  The ‘clerk’ said “We don’t have any instruction, but I do have diagram.”  I prompt him with, “You don’t have instruction?”  He confirmed.  I said O.K. , send me the diagram, thinking to myself, that will have some information.  Here is what I got:

Lets compare:

This is my ome pump

This is the Speedmaster pump.

Not seeing it!!!

So I called up Summit Racing Equipment and spend 1 hour 22 minutes on hold (I was editing video during that time).  I was then requested to leave my number and a tech could text me back.    5 hours later….I get a text.  I asked the question about instructions.    The next day I get a text that says “It’s a pretty straight forward installation.”  So I called. Summit again.  I was on hold for 45 minutes and finally got someone to answer my question which was – what size it the OUT thread so I can get a fitting.  (originally I thought I’d get the proper fitting for the flared steel line).  Summit told me I shouldn’t use the steel line and to just get the  male to 3/8 barb.   I asked again what size threads?  He said 3/4″ to 3/8″ barb.   I ran to 3 Auto Parts stores and no one had this fitting. (That is the short version – most didn’t even know what I was talking about, much less knew if they had anything like that.)  I order some from Amazon and they next day delivery with my Prime membership! They didn’t fit.  So I found Speedmaster on Facebook and asked the question.  Here is how that 3 day conversation went:

Speedmaster Automotive Parts Store
Tue 6:43 PM———————————————————–Note the time.
I purchased this: Brand: Speedmaster

Manufacturer’s Part Number: PCE146-1014

Part Type: Fuel Pumps

What size male fitting do I need from your pump to a 3/8 barb?
Tue 11:07 PM——————————————————————–Note the time
3/8 npt—————————————————————————Response
Wed 2:29 PM——————————————————————-Note time
38 npt to 38 barb?
3/8 npt to 3/8 barb (my correction)

No response
?

No response

(I called the Speedmaster again then Facebook messaged them)
Wed 4:12 PM————————————————————————Note time
I’m confused. Summit says 3/4 to 3/8 barb. I just talked to someone at your
location via phone they said 3/4npt. But 3/4 npt does not fit. If I didn’t already
have the pump in the car I’d return it and buy something that there with clear
instruction and well informed support. ….🙁
I’ll have to pick up both sizes tomorrow and I’ll get back to you on the actual size!

—————————————————————————————-NOTE LACK OF RESPONSE.

(My follow up to the chat)
Thursday 1:13 PM
Here is exactly what fitting is needed.

805NSED – 3/8 barb X 5/16 npt Hose Barb X Inverted Flare

Something you SHOULD know but
no one did. Don’t feel do bad even Summit, where I purchased it got it wrong.

#MissingTheGoodOldDays

Thanks for letting me whine!!!

 

Tim

 

 

Project SportsRoof Vapor Lock or Not IV – Fuel Line Repair

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Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof.

I continue to chase down the fuel issues on my 73 Mustang’s 351 Cleveland.

Last time on the “Day of Discoveries”  found the fuel line crushed.  This is the repair video.  WARNING:  It is longer than normal with a few Average Guy tips.   Link:

ProjectSportsRoof – Front Shocks and A Day of Discoveries.

Welcome back to #ProjectSportRoof, the on going saga of my 1973 Mustang Sports Roof. I have a lot of

 

So kick back, give it a watch and drop me a comment or two!!

 

 


There is a lot more to come. Keep checking back!!

Thank you.
Tim

ProjectSportsRoof – Front Shocks and A Day of Discoveries.

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Welcome back to #ProjectSportRoof, the on going saga of my 1973 Mustang Sports Roof.

I have a lot of projects going on with ProjectSportsRoof, mainly because it NEEDS a lot work.  Plus the whole COVID19 thing has parts on back order and shipping delays, blah, blah, blah!

I ordered a new fuel pump and the project shipping date was Oct 2020….canceled that order.  Found one that was in stock and shipped in 3 days – DONE!

So as I wait for that important part, I figured I’d replace the front shocks, which by the way were on back order for 2 weeks.  Turns out it was a good idea, as it uncovered an issue that might help solve a current problem…you’ll see!!

Now, I didn’t show you my step by step removal and installation, shocks are pretty straight forward.   Here’s the video (BTW I don’t normally do a sit down chat but I did today):

 


Fuel pump can in today, check back for that work!

Thanks for checking in!

Tim

 

 

ProjectSportsRoof – Vapor Lock or Not – Part III Fuel Pressure Test

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Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof – my 351C powered 73 Mustang Sports Roof!

I’m pressing on with tracking down the cause of the frequent stalling of the bored .040 351C.

I suspected vapor lock, but with the fuel line insulated against the heat of the manifold and block, I didn’t get the ‘boiling’ sound, that might not be the issue.   But I couldn’t keep it running in idle.  So the fuel press test was next.  Here’s the video:

 


As of this afternoon, the Cleveland is having issue starting – fuel related.

The fuel pump feeding the juice to the carb is a generic stock not sure of the specs.  Here is what I’m going to replace it.  Oh and it is tough to find anything for 351 Cleveland on the local market.  Even on-line, I was looking at out stock everywhere and ship dates of Oct 2020!  Thanks Pandemic!!!

So I found this:

Procomp Electronics High-Volume Mechanical Fuel Pumps PCE146-1014

Fuel Pump, Mechanical, Chrome, 115 gph, 6.5 psi, 1/4 in. NPT,

Flow Rate: 115 gph/435 lph

Inlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT

Inlet Quantity: One

Inlet Attachment: Female threads

Outlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT

Procomp Electronics high-volume mechanical fuel pumps are designed to work with stock or mildly
modified engines. They deliver free-flow outputs of 115 gph–that’s twice what a normal pump
typically delivers! These pumps are plated with a bright finish for good looks and corrosion
resistance. The lower housings can be rotated through 360 degrees to make fitting into tight
places a snap, and they have large orifices for high flow rates. Procomp Electronics high volume
mechanical fuel pumps are not compatible with methanol or alcohol fuels, and should not be used
with fuel injection systems. Order the model recommended for your specific vehicle and engine size.

Drop your thoughts in a comment!!

Thanks for checking!!

Tim

Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland in #ProjectSportsRoof

Vapor lock.   What is it, why does it happen and how to tackle and solve the problem.   We are going to do it

#ProjectSportsRoof – Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland Part II

Welcome back. I’m shacking down the partial rebuild of the 1972 351 Cleveland in my 1973 Mustang dubbed,

#ProjectSportsRoof – Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland Part II

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Welcome back.

I’m shaking down the partial rebuild of the 1972 351 Cleveland in my 1973 Mustang dubbed, #ProjectSportsRoof  (originally called SR-73, but reader keep asking me if could do MACH 4+ …yea, I didn’t think it was funny either).  New cam, lifters, rods and a few other things, need to be giving a good working out.  However, fuel issues have popped up.  

Suspected vapor lock, but not sure, so I’m taking it one step at time.  Step one insulate the gas line from the block.  Here’s the video and results.  I could have edited a bunch out but I wanted the viewers to see it as it happened – in this case it’s more like HEAR it. This is my way of saying the video is ….um…not great!!   Watch the video and then give me your opinion on which option below you want me to try next.

 


Some of those options are?

         1.  Fuel Pressure test (because it might not be vapor lock)

         2.  Another option is to install an Electric Fuel Pump near the tank. This pressurizes most of the
         fuel in the lines. Fluid under pressure is harder to vaporize.

          3. Other options include installing a Phenolic Carb Spacer and/or a Carburetor Heat Shield to
           keep the carburetor cool.

         4.  Swap from an 850CFM to 750 or 650CFM Carb (because it might not be vapor lock)

Find the comment box and let me know which one you want to see attempted or email me at AGCarrestoration@cox.net.

Thanks for checking in.

Tim

 

Original Engine? Should you keep it?

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I’m not a “huge” numbers matching guy, but there are a few cars that I think we should always try to keep their original power plants. Corvettes are one of those cars and Mustang – mostly.

My 1984 Corvette had the much loved (by much loved, I mean hated) GM CrossFire engine (with all of it’s 205 hp). It was a huge pain. I must have rebuild those injectors 5 times in the course of my ownership but there just weren’t that many CrossFires left out there.

So Corvettes should retain there original engines and the same is true as I mentioned  some Mustangs.  Clearly not with my 1970 Mustang that was born with a 250, six cylinder with dealer installed under-the-dash A/C.   It wasn’t going to cut it. Turn on the A/C and you had a peddle car.  I didn’t stray to far, I ordered 302 long block, bored .030.   I caught some flack from the local Ford 6 cylinder crew for the swap…but it might have been because I didn’t offer them the tired old 250.  I donated it to young kid was learning at a local shop and needed a engine to work on.   You can see a lot of those details right here on my blog.   Entirely different story with #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang). It’s a 351 Cleveland  and there aren’t many of those left out there. I rebuild the engine a year and 1/2 ago.  Just had a lifter go rouge (with only 250 miles on the rebuilt) It now has a new comp cam lifters and rods.  For less than 1/2 of all that was spend I could have dropped in 400hp Windsor crate engine, but I just couldn’t.

What do you say?

 


Thanks for checking in!!

Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof

1973 Mustang -Project Sports Roof – Mach 1 Grille Part II

Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof.  Progress is being made and I’d like to finish up these post

Project SportsRoof is Back on the Street Part II

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So what kept my ’73 Mustang from running free around Southern Arizona?

Well, a lot of things, but where to start?

You’ll recall there was that pesky head gasket leak with water bubbling between the block and the left side head.

 

Then here was this:

The transmission leaked around the kick down lever I installed.

The gas tank needed to be dumped and accelerate pump replaced.

Started and coil decided to passed on to the great scrap metal pile in the sky.

Oh and there was that lifter noise. Check out the video:


After the a new camshaft install, new push rods, new spark plugs she runs like new—-ish!!

Thanks for stopping by.
Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof

 

700 Plus HP – You have to Respect the Power – Kevin Hart’s 70 Cuda.

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I read an account, on Facebook siting TMZ as the source (yes there are 3 problem there, first it’s on Facebook, second it’s TMZ and third it’s TMZ), that the guy driving Kevin Hart’s Cuda is suing Kevin and in turn Kevin is suing SpeedKore for not having enough/proper safety equipment.  Specifically, that the car didn’t have airbags or safety harnesses.

The post goes on to lament the concern that this case may lead California to require that all classic cars be outfitted with current safety equipment.  Should that be the case then classic car collecting and driving would become affordable to just about everyone. Unfortunately, that might not be that much of a stretch.

This brought several thoughts to mind that I’ll share.

I’ve raced my cars, my 1970 Mustang appeared in several charity drag races.  Both of my Corvettes were auto crossed informally (car club sponsored and in SCCA events. )  One of the keys is understanding the ability and power of the car and your driving ability!!!    

At one event a fellow car club member had just purchased a C6 Z06 Corvette with 600 plus hp.  He was a newbie when it came to Corvettes and horse power.  In his first auto cross he lost control of his Corvette and drove through a fence at a well known race course/school here in Arizona.  He had no idea the power of the car and turned off the traction control, something newbies should never do.

Now, I don’t know the driving experience of the guy driving Kevin’s Cuda, nor do I know what driving skills Kevin Hart has for such a powerful car, but I guessing very little for both. At least not enough to request a proper harness be installed.  Of course, if you have the money, you can spend it on anything your “heart” desires, but should you?  Should you by a powerful device without the proper skill set to operate it?  I’ve owned and fired weapons before, I guess purchasing an armored personnel carrier with a .50 caliber M2 machine gun and a 40 mm Mk 19 automatic grenade launcher should be fine.  I can drive a truck and have fired M16s….ya…I’m good.

Point is you must understand the car’s capabilities as well your skill level and respect it’s power and what that can do.

My second thought is related to regulations restricting the equipment and driving for classic cars.  There is a continued eroding of protections for the hobby and the industry.  With knuckleheads like Kevin and his friends we could be doomed.

There are small organizations out there lobbying to protect/preserve the rights to own, collected and drive this cars.  But I fear that they are too small and under funded to mount a long term fight.

Kevin, you are very funny guy and I enjoy your shows, but this is not funny.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Image result for speedkore charger

 

kevin hart car accident