No it’s not real Corvette – but the Collector’s Promo Revell Model. In the original box.
All you have to do is guess the year of the Corvette the part pictured belongs too!!! First one to post the answer gets 1 point. The first one that gets 4 correct wins the car.
When I first purchased my 07 Corvette and took my wife for a ride. I was pretty jazzed and noticed the noise emanating from the roof.
That was the first thing she noticed. I was so caught up in the handling and power I was ok with the noise. But after she mentioned it, I wasn’t able to ignore it quite as easily.
The squeaking was very profound and since our roads aren’t the best in the land, it crazy loud. So the search was on for a cure.
Lots of help on-line including resetting (releasing the front latches) and closing them again. This came with the sage advice “….I got the wife accustomed to helping me reset the top at stop lights…don’t do it while you are moving….” I wonder if that little nugget was from a first person experience?
And for a while I would reset the top latches (not while moving) when the noise got frequent. But that just couldn’t be a long-term solution……”ERRRRRKK….(braking noise)…..I brake for “soap boxes”!!!
I am frankly sick and tired of hearing for Corvette owners the following phrases…”that’s the nature of the beast”….”that’s just something you have to live with”…and the my favorite…”You’ll get use to it.” That is all BS. If things are broken…then they are broken. If doesn’t work like it’s supposed to, then it needs attention. I’ve heard that ever since I’ve owned my C6. Those tired phrases, were used for the squeaking roof and the odd activity with my gas gauge after filling it up and the cold weather shifting issue. No way dawg, I want this stuff fixed!!! .
So back to top issue. After checking with a few more Corvette buddies, I ran into to one that gave me this, every valuable tip. He used it successfully.
Get out the lube…Dielectric grease the rollers / contact point for the front latches and the pins in the back. Lube up the rubber moldings /contact points of the moldings.
Di-Electric-Grease
Lube the rear posts.
Spray a little on a rag and wipe down the rubber weather-stripping. You don’t need a lot.
I’ve only done one time and not since. But I keep the rubber clean and no problems.
For those of you aren’t familiar with the top (I’ve talked to a couple that didn’t know the coupe had a removal top.) see the video below.
I have a National Motor Museum Mint die-cast car to give away. It is the 10 millionth car Ford produced. It was 1924 and the 1924 Model T Touring Car was the car of choice.
When new, the “real” car would cost between $295 and $380. There were 773,102 produced and it was powered by the L-4. With 176.7 cubic inches displaced it muscled out 20 Horse power.
In the original box and with Certificate and "baseball" card
How do you win? Post of a good picture of your 1920-1950 engine, tell us what it is and get someone to like the pic. The engine picture with the most Likes wins.
You can post it on our Facebook page located here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Average-Guys-Car-Restoration-Mods-and-Racing/185827701454279
I love combing through ads for selling cars. Every now and then you read some really good ones.
1. ” 1960 Plymouth Fury donor car. Seems to be complete including chrome and emblems. Glass not broken. No bullet holes. Frame and floor pans rusted through. Guaranteed NOT to run. Absolutely as-is. Will help load; no hurry to move. Strip what you want and leave the rest if desired. No title. Worth ~$400 for scrap iron.”
2. “I HAVE NO INTERIOR AND MOTOR IS ALL THERE BUT STUCK.”
3. “…have to get rid of all my rides but a bike and my work truck. I don’t know a lot about older cars like this besides that it runs and drives good and seems like a good deal to me.”
4. “I purchased this car in late 2010 as a project car for my son and am now selling it due to his lack of fulfilling his obligations in order to keep it…..OH SNAP!!!”
I ran across this on Classic Recollections. I’m not a Aston guy, but this DB Mark III is pretty nice. The owner did a lot of work on this thing. Nicely done! Oh, but cleaning those wire wheels…..ya killin’ me!!
Right on the verge of the gas crisis, the ’74 models were a mixed bag of old school horsepower and new school power choking fog reduction hardware. This Impala was in fact still a V8 with the power of the a 1960’s 6 cylinder.
Now I love the Impala models and if you’ve read a recent post I wrote I think 4 doors are under valued and with the right tweaks can achieve the power desired to make them a muscle car.
This Chevy was sitting outside a local CVS store with a for sale sign.
4 door with stamped steel wheels and poverty hub caps
I’m not sure what year it. You couldn’t really tell by the headlights or tail lights. But one doesn’t often see one of these in this condition too often.
One of a kind.
Back of the Bun!!
The interior was set up like a tour bus.
What I can tell you is that the big dog is resting what appears to be a Chevy Dually pick up truck bed. According to the sign it’s powered by a 5700 6.0 Vortech Chevy engine.
This one is for the C4 crowd (You digging this one Tony Z.?) There will be two winners one from Corvette Pals and one from my blog. Here is what I’m looking for. I use to auto cross my 1984 Crossfire (still do SCCA with my C6) and I love to see the C4 in action.
So post of a video of your C4 in action (action photos are ok too!) – Nothing illegal (snicker) or unsafe, mind you. Burn outs, auto cross, drag strip…Looking for some action shots. Post them up at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Average-Guys-Car-Restoration-Mods-and-Racing/185827701454279 and mention The Average Guy’s Car Restoration, Mods and Racing blog.
OH…what’s the prize? How about a 1984 Red Corvette promo model in the original box or a 1984 Silver C4? These are the model cars the dealerships give away. Can’t win if you don’t play…can’t win if you ain’t got a C4!!!! Game on!!!
1984 Silver C4 Promo Model - Yes those are Mustangs in the back ground!!!
This is for a National Motor Museum Mint, 1934 Ford V-8 Deluxe die-cast model car.
1934 Ford V-8 Deluxe Roadster
In 1934 these cars would cost you a whopping $710. There were about 6,863 produced each powered by a 221 Cubic Inch V8 with 85 horse power. To day in top condition these beauties fetch up to $40,000.00
Comes in the original packing with the Certificate of Authenticity. These are great collectible cars.
HOW TO WIN:
Email (timsweet@cox.net) or post a picture of your 1930’s or 1940’s car and a quick note about it – no matter the condition.
I’ll collect them and post them up. The readers of my blog will vote. The winner will be mailed the car, however I don’t need your mail information unless you win.
NOTE: ANY CONTACT INFORMATION IS PRIVATE AND IS NEVER RETAINED AND NEVER REUSED. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS CONTACT ME FIRST, BEFORE PROVIDING YOUR MAILING ADDRESS.
Looking over my morning emails, I come across my Hemmings daily email. Love getting these and sometimes I share an article from them.
On the right hand side they spotlight (or maybe as a seller you have to pay extra for the placement) some of the cars that are listed with them for sale. Today there is this 1963 Corvette:
For just over $15K you can pick this up. Worth it? Tires and rims look new!!!
