Thanks checking back in with the 1973 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof).
I’m moving right along with getting the progress on the 351C tear down posted up. In this post I’ve pulled the oil pan and we can take a quick look at the crank and mains.
You have to love Ford engineers. Each main is numbered with an arrow…come on…that’s cool!
I was hoping that there would be something obviously out of whack at this point, but everything looked O.K. from what I could see.
Coming up next I’ll unbolt the mains and we’ll look at the bearing, piston and crank.
Jul 31, 2016 … We are moving right along on #ProjectSportsRoof,with the 351 Cleveland rebuilt. Still getting it ready to be pulled from the engine bay In this …
Source: average-guys-car-restoration-mods-racing.com projectsportsroof … for the 73 Mustang, #ProjectSportsRoof, I’m about to remove the intake manifold.
Finally the fun part begins. Well actually it’s all fun, just varying degrees of it. Welcome back to the 1973 Mustang project dubbed: #ProjectSportsRoof. We have the 351 Cleveland out and now I’m going to begin disassembly and see if we can get to the bottom of the “bottom end noise” it developed.
Here’s the first video. Don’t be distracted by the Corvette t-shirt from my corvette club, it’s ok to own both!!
Here’s a look at one of nuts from the torque stall converter:
They are pretty rounded.
As you can see I didn’t have you watch as I unbolted the fuel pump or the brackets, even though this is Average Guy’s Car Restoration which equates to average skill set, average tool hoard and average (or below) budget, but I’m thinking you get the removal of a couple of bolts. If things get tricky (for me) I’ll cover it.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is …
We are so close to pulling out this ’72 351 Cleveland out of #ProjectSportsRoof.
In this post I continue to prep for the removal and I needed to do a trial run fitting the engine load balancing/leveling unit and if I had a enough room to maneuver.
Here’s why:
First there’s a lip I have to take into consideration.
There is a 2″ lip between the garage and the driveway/car.
The distance between the 2″ lip and the car bumper is a concern.
Not much room
Just about 45″
It’s a tight squeeze.
This is the foot of the hoist.
It’s 48″ long.
So I have to fit all of this under the Mustang – BTW there’s jack stands hold up the car and the transmission. When you lower the arm to reach out over the bumper (damn those safety bumpers) the hoist is pressing on the bumper.
Keep in mind that just past the front tires the drive slopes. I had visions of the getting the engine out and having to roll the hoist out past the car and swing it around to lower it on to the engine stand and it getting it away and rolling done the driveway and dumping its self in to the street…I actually had a nightmare about it.
So a dry run was necessary just so I could sleep.
Here’s the video:
I’m going to finish up the prep in the next post.
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We are moving right along on #ProjectSportsRoof,with the 351 Cleveland rebuilt. Still getting it ready to be pulled from the engine bay In this posting I’m still …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is …
Mustang lovers check this out. There is place in El Mirage, AZ called Marti Auto Works. They own the rights to the Ford databases and records prior to 1974 (some models up to 1989). These guys have everything..I mean everything. Give them the VIN number and they’ll pile on the data (it’s not free but very reasonable). They are authorized by Ford to reproduce window stickers and Protector Plates (identification plates that go on the inside door jamb) and more.
If you have a classic Mustang you’ve got to get this report. I thought I’d share mine with the readers. The link below is to the .pdf and here is an image.
Whether you are just interested in the car history or doing an original restore this report comes in very handy. It’s pretty cool to see when it was ordered and build and all the original options are there to match.
The Statistics section – so cool!!! This section lets you know where your car ranks compare to those produce that year. As you can see above #ProjectSportsRoof is o1 of 76 with that paint and trim coat. If nothing else it bragging rights and in some small way this may add to the value of the car, but that’s tough to measure.
The list of items in the Door Data Plate Info, helps you determine how original your might be. For example you can see that my 73 Mustang left the factory with 302 and if you’ve followed my posts on #ProjectSportsRoof you’ll know it now sports a 351C V2 date coded 1972 and a C4 transmission but now it has a date code 1972 C6.
Visit the Marti report site and see what they offer.
Welcome back. I’m continuing on with the Engine Mini-Series – Ford’s Small Block V8s. This post covers the 260 CID.
I did mention I’d touch on the 255 but that is really out of chronological order and was merely a muted 302 used on for 3 years. It was dropped for poor performance.
So following the 221 engine (to see the post click here) was the 260 CID. This came about after the poor performance of the 221 and even with the release of a tweaked version. Enter Ford’s 260 CID. It retained the same intake and exhaust ports as the 221, the valves were larger (intake was now 1.76 and exhaust was 1.45). With it’s bore increased to 3.80 with no change to the stroke the engine put out 164 hp (about 20 more than the 221). It had a plane jane hydraulic cam and a compression ratio of 8.7:1 and capped off with a two barrel cast iron intake and carb.
The 260 was the engine Carrol Shelby used in his original Cobra and it was selected by the British car maker for the Sunbeam Tiger.
Shelby’s 1962 Cobra
1962 Sunbeam Tiger with Ford 260
The 260 was in service from 1962 to 1964 and it powered the likes of the Fairlane, Meteor (at least as an option), Comet(at least as an option), Falcon and in 1964 even the Mustang 64 1/2 (F code cars).
Engine was an overhead valve, Cast iron block with a bore and stroke 3.80 x 2.87 and Compression ratio 8.8:1 with 164 hp. It held 5 main bearings, hydraulic lifters and Autolite 2 bbl carb (Model C40F-9510-B) (Mustang configuration). The 260 was also called the Challenger 260 and could to be found topped with a Holley 2bbl Carb vs. the Autolite.
So far my writings are about engines have been ones I owned and the 283 was the engine in my very first car. It was a 1966 Chevy Impala. It was a gift to me for my 1976 high school graduation. The car was restored by my father, who was …
Oh yes, believe it or not, the 283 put the Corvette at the cutting edge of performance in 1957, fitted with the RamJet FI (fuel injection) system (“fuelie” was the gearhead term for that). In 1958 the 283 was the base engine for the Corvette, but the 283 that use …
This is the part of the engine series where I list the uses for the power plant. The 283, as I mentioned, carried Chevy engines to the next level, by being the first engine that car manufacturers were able to coax out the same horsepower as the displacement. From 1957 (its …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. Floor pan are ready to be welded into place on the 1973 Mustang Sportsroof.
Now I’m not a welder and there was no way I was going to experiment on the Mustang. So I enlisted the assistance of my neighbor Dan Thomas. Dan is quite the artist with his welding and metal work and although this build didn’t require much fancy design work…just quality welds and Dan delivered.
The goal here is to tack the fitted metal patch panels in place. The welds need to be strong and in the proper places. Now you might say, “Hey did you say that the Mustang is a unit-body and that the floor needed to be strong since that’s what holds the car together – mostly?” Yes that is true, however this Mustang will have frame connectors added to make this reasonable.
Just a note about the welding, you have to use gas with the mig…the metal for the patch panels are not that thick and the portions of the floor you are welding it to are old…so you need the added gas.
To start with I needed to strip the tack locations down to bare metal. You can see some of that in this image.
Here a little video clip of the work. Note: Don’t adjust your device’s volume….there is no sound on the first part of the video…well there was, but it was mostly me chewing gum…not very cool to listen too.
Here is some of Dan’s most excellent work.
Thanks Dan!!!
Thanks for following along with the project. Drop me any questions, comments and/or your thoughts!!!! Coming up next is the coating of the floor and the heat and sound barrier.
Well win some and you lose some. If you’ve seen my other posts related the replacement of the points and condenser for the 351C you’ll notice that I gave conversion high marks. This was all based on the years of use I got out of the conversion I did on …
Other duties happen outside of working on #ProjectSportsRoof…like yard work!!!!! While attempting to tame the foliage in the backyard on Sunday, my electric hedge clippers became self-aware and in true Terminator fashion, exacted revenge on two fingers on my left hand – index and middle. (Yes I have pictures and no I won’t post them here.) Pretty sure I taught the neighborhood new curse words.
Of course this necessitated a trip to the ER, much to my dismay and my wife’s. It took the doctor a fair amount of time sew them up – 31 stitches and to pass the time the doc and I discussed cars – specifically his new Tesla. So over all it was a nice break from the average weekend routine and I scored some pain meds to boot!! (HA,HA).
I’ll be out of commission for the next couple of weeks so maybe I can catch up on some blogging. Might be a bit optimistic, considering how long it has taken to just type this post!!!
Note to self: Don’t throw out the next door hanger for a landscape service.
I am slurring my typing, meds are kicking in …..SO…thanks for reading.
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and
fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!! Final Fit for foot-well …
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and
fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!! Final Fit for foot-well …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I run my car projects much like I run my IT projects. You always have to know where to start and know the end game. As with any project that isn’t being built from scratch, in other word, you have to work with what you’ve got, …
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!!
Final Fit for foot-well.
This video is pretty comprehensive so I’m just going to just let it roll.
A couple of things worth noting. The “flap” what was clearly not going to work and leaving the sheet metal running up the side of the transmission/drive shaft tunnel was going to give too much flex in that panel, as the welds would be pretty high. It’s important to have that solid because as most must guys and gals know the Mustang of this vintage only have sub-frames which lease the floor as the most important body stabilization part of the car. I will eventually put sub-frame connectors under this beast.
In case you are wondering what that electrical wiring is to the right of foot-well that is for the seat belt switch which when pressure is applied to the seat bottom there must be a connection completed by the seat-belt male end and female end to turn off the “Seat Belt” light and or buzzer.
I have a lot more coming up on the floor pans so stay tuned!!!!
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. We beginning the actual work on the vacuum system on the projects 351C starting with the valve assembly distributor ( the …