Tag Archives: Mustangs

Auto Parts Stores and Auto Parts Clerks…Are there any good ones left?

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I remember when you could go into a auto parts store and the clerks knew something about cars.

When I was a kid (back in the early 1970’s) my Dad owned a body shop. I’d work there on weekends (for …”the roof over you head”) and summers.  I learned a lot about cars and enjoyed it (most of it).  One of the coolest things was heading over the automotive parts and paint places.  So much cool stuff to look at, paint books with paint chips in them, tools and gadgets. You could talk for an hour about the cars you were working on.  If you asked a question they normally had a useful answer. If you wanted advice you would get some, sometime even if you did ask there was a good chance you’d get some.  NAPA was big back then and had paint as well.

Those places are long gone now, mostly.  Now no one has the parts in stock and worse most of the clerks have no idea about car parts (insert Rock Auto theme song) and there is nearly 100% reliance on a computer. There is just no way a parts clerk should utter the phrase “I can order it.” Oh and talk about your car project?…’fer getta bou it’!

This whine is was brought about by my recent purchase of a fuel pump for #ProjectSportsRoof (my 1973 351 Cleveland powered Mustang). 

Normally, I don’t use names of companies but I’m going to now.

I purchased the Speedmaster  fuel pump from Summit Racing Equipment.  Speedmaster also has their own site where they sell these as well.

Specs:

Brand: Speedmaster

Manufacturer’s Part Number: PCE146-1014

Part Type: Fuel Pumps

Product Line: Procomp Electronics High-Volume Mechanical Fuel Pumps

Summit Racing Part Number: SDM-PCE146-1014

UPC: 840136507376

Fuel Pump Type: Mechanical

Flow Rate: 115 gph/435 lph

Fuel Pressure (psi): 6 psi

Fuel Pressure Regulator Included: No

Sending Unit Included: No

Inlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT  —not

Inlet Quantity: One

Inlet Attachment: Female threads

Outlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT —not

Outlet Quantity: One

Outlet Attachment: Female threads

Gasket Included: No    -actually yes 2 gaskets

Wiring Harness Included: No

Mounting Bracket Included: No

Mounting Hardware Included: No

Pulley Included: No


The pump is designed to be configurable to give the best fit possible.  The pump showed up with no fittings – which I guess it normal now days.  It also showed up with no instructions.  Just the pump in the box and two gasket stuck under the bottom box flap.  Instruction would have been nice if I need to swivel the IN/OUT.

I didn’t think the hardware would be a problem I could use the male end from the old pump and pick up the other at a local parts store.  I figured that I’d double check their site for instructions just in case I need anything different, after all this pump pushed a bunch more fuel then the OEM version.

I went to Speedmaster’s web site and looked up the pump and clicked the instructions link.  Nothing happened.  I called the company to see if they could email me instructions.  The ‘clerk’ said “We don’t have any instruction, but I do have diagram.”  I prompt him with, “You don’t have instruction?”  He confirmed.  I said O.K. , send me the diagram, thinking to myself, that will have some information.  Here is what I got:

Lets compare:

This is my ome pump

This is the Speedmaster pump.

Not seeing it!!!

So I called up Summit Racing Equipment and spend 1 hour 22 minutes on hold (I was editing video during that time).  I was then requested to leave my number and a tech could text me back.    5 hours later….I get a text.  I asked the question about instructions.    The next day I get a text that says “It’s a pretty straight forward installation.”  So I called. Summit again.  I was on hold for 45 minutes and finally got someone to answer my question which was – what size it the OUT thread so I can get a fitting.  (originally I thought I’d get the proper fitting for the flared steel line).  Summit told me I shouldn’t use the steel line and to just get the  male to 3/8 barb.   I asked again what size threads?  He said 3/4″ to 3/8″ barb.   I ran to 3 Auto Parts stores and no one had this fitting. (That is the short version – most didn’t even know what I was talking about, much less knew if they had anything like that.)  I order some from Amazon and they next day delivery with my Prime membership! They didn’t fit.  So I found Speedmaster on Facebook and asked the question.  Here is how that 3 day conversation went:

Speedmaster Automotive Parts Store
Tue 6:43 PM———————————————————–Note the time.
I purchased this: Brand: Speedmaster

Manufacturer’s Part Number: PCE146-1014

Part Type: Fuel Pumps

What size male fitting do I need from your pump to a 3/8 barb?
Tue 11:07 PM——————————————————————–Note the time
3/8 npt—————————————————————————Response
Wed 2:29 PM——————————————————————-Note time
38 npt to 38 barb?
3/8 npt to 3/8 barb (my correction)

No response
?

No response

(I called the Speedmaster again then Facebook messaged them)
Wed 4:12 PM————————————————————————Note time
I’m confused. Summit says 3/4 to 3/8 barb. I just talked to someone at your
location via phone they said 3/4npt. But 3/4 npt does not fit. If I didn’t already
have the pump in the car I’d return it and buy something that there with clear
instruction and well informed support. ….🙁
I’ll have to pick up both sizes tomorrow and I’ll get back to you on the actual size!

—————————————————————————————-NOTE LACK OF RESPONSE.

(My follow up to the chat)
Thursday 1:13 PM
Here is exactly what fitting is needed.

805NSED – 3/8 barb X 5/16 npt Hose Barb X Inverted Flare

Something you SHOULD know but
no one did. Don’t feel do bad even Summit, where I purchased it got it wrong.

#MissingTheGoodOldDays

Thanks for letting me whine!!!

 

Tim

 

 

#ProjectSportsRoof – Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland Part II

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Welcome back.

I’m shaking down the partial rebuild of the 1972 351 Cleveland in my 1973 Mustang dubbed, #ProjectSportsRoof  (originally called SR-73, but reader keep asking me if could do MACH 4+ …yea, I didn’t think it was funny either).  New cam, lifters, rods and a few other things, need to be giving a good working out.  However, fuel issues have popped up.  

Suspected vapor lock, but not sure, so I’m taking it one step at time.  Step one insulate the gas line from the block.  Here’s the video and results.  I could have edited a bunch out but I wanted the viewers to see it as it happened – in this case it’s more like HEAR it. This is my way of saying the video is ….um…not great!!   Watch the video and then give me your opinion on which option below you want me to try next.

 


Some of those options are?

         1.  Fuel Pressure test (because it might not be vapor lock)

         2.  Another option is to install an Electric Fuel Pump near the tank. This pressurizes most of the
         fuel in the lines. Fluid under pressure is harder to vaporize.

          3. Other options include installing a Phenolic Carb Spacer and/or a Carburetor Heat Shield to
           keep the carburetor cool.

         4.  Swap from an 850CFM to 750 or 650CFM Carb (because it might not be vapor lock)

Find the comment box and let me know which one you want to see attempted or email me at AGCarrestoration@cox.net.

Thanks for checking in.

Tim

 

Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland in #ProjectSportsRoof

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Vapor lock.   What is it, why does it happen and how to tackle and solve the problem.   We are going to do it together!

My 1973 Mustang with the newly re-constructed engine has gladly stepped up and volunteered  to be our test subject. (Sarcasm or dismay?  You decide!)

Where to start?  Let’s go from the discovery of the problem to the possible causes to the possible solutions.

Took the gray beast out for another shake down run. I ran down the to local auto parts store, about a 3 mile drive and it was a spirited drive.  I was searching for a bolt for the passenger side seat, some how misplaced the original when I was putting the new floor  panels and carpet in.  I was in the store for 8 minute top – they aren’t as friendly as they use to be.  Use to be you would show up and chat up everyone and discuss what you were working on.  These days you are lucky to find someone that knows what a bolt is.  (Sorry but that’s almost true!!)   As of this writing we are still in COVID19 lock down…(don’t judge me….I really needed that bolt!!!) and they were even less friendly.  Sorry…I digressed. (O.K., if I was really sorry I’d go back and remove this, so lets just consider it “color” and not digression).

After 8 minutes (most of that as the clerk silently pawed through some bolts in the back), I returned to the Mustang and turned the key.  It started hard – 4-5 tries.   On the drive back it kept feeling like she wasn’t getting gas. Temporarily losing a bit of power.   Got home lifted the hood and I could hear the gurgling in the carb.

Here are some specs on the 1972 351 Cleveland that is in my 1973 body:

351C V2

The block is bored out .o4o make it 4.040″

Crank machined .020 under.

Topped with a Edelbrock Performer intake and 1413 800 CFM 4bbl Carb.

Just replaced the cam with Comp Cam FC 268H-10 grind.

                                    — Gross Valve Lifit .494 Intake and .494 Exhaust

                                    — Duration .006 tappet lift  268 for both Intake and Exhaust

                                    — Valve Timing @.006

                                                             —Intake   Opent 28.0 and BTDC  Closed 60.0  ABDC

                                                             — Exhaust  opent 28.0  and BBDC  Closed 20.0   ATDC

Installed Specs

@106.0  Intake center line

Duration @ .050                       Intake 219                        Exhaust 219

Lobe lift                                       Intake .2860 and the same for Exhaust

Lobe separation                          110.0

 

What is vapor lock?  

Vapor lock causes a car to stop running when the fuel in the system overheats. It is most likely to happen when driving on hot days and in stop-and-go traffic. (It was only in the upper 80’s that day) Constant acceleration and deceleration makes your engine work harder, causing it to run hotter. (I was doing a bunch of accelerating – da!) Excess heat causes the fuel to vaporize. This keeps the fuel from reaching the engine.

Many carbureted engines have fuel pumps located near or next to the engine. (Yup!)  The pump’s closeness to the engine, as with some T-types, causes the fuel in the line to become very hot. When heated, fuel turns to a vapor, like water turns to steam when boiled. This process is hastened by the vacuum created in the line as the fuel is sucked into the engine.

When the fuel turns to vapor, the fuel pump can no longer move it through the system. As a result, the fuel doesn’t get to the combustion chambers; the car runs roughly; or it dies. Meanwhile, the car will not restart or will continue to have problems if it does.

So, the main cause is over heated fuel and I’m guess hearing it boiling in the carb is clearly not a positive thing.  Other cause could be:

— portions of the fuel line are to close to the engine or exhaust causing the over heating.

— to large of a carb leaving extra gas sitting in the bowls, being heated.

So, first I want check the positions of the lines.   Check out the video.

 

 


 

There is only the one area that could be the problem and that is from the fuel pump to the carb.  I pick up some Vapor Block
Fuel Line Split Sleeve by DEI.  So I’m gong to wrap that area.  We’ll see what happens, so check back

 

 

 

Thanks for check in!

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof

 

 

 

Original Engine? Should you keep it?

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I’m not a “huge” numbers matching guy, but there are a few cars that I think we should always try to keep their original power plants. Corvettes are one of those cars and Mustang – mostly.

My 1984 Corvette had the much loved (by much loved, I mean hated) GM CrossFire engine (with all of it’s 205 hp). It was a huge pain. I must have rebuild those injectors 5 times in the course of my ownership but there just weren’t that many CrossFires left out there.

So Corvettes should retain there original engines and the same is true as I mentioned  some Mustangs.  Clearly not with my 1970 Mustang that was born with a 250, six cylinder with dealer installed under-the-dash A/C.   It wasn’t going to cut it. Turn on the A/C and you had a peddle car.  I didn’t stray to far, I ordered 302 long block, bored .030.   I caught some flack from the local Ford 6 cylinder crew for the swap…but it might have been because I didn’t offer them the tired old 250.  I donated it to young kid was learning at a local shop and needed a engine to work on.   You can see a lot of those details right here on my blog.   Entirely different story with #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang). It’s a 351 Cleveland  and there aren’t many of those left out there. I rebuild the engine a year and 1/2 ago.  Just had a lifter go rouge (with only 250 miles on the rebuilt) It now has a new comp cam lifters and rods.  For less than 1/2 of all that was spend I could have dropped in 400hp Windsor crate engine, but I just couldn’t.

What do you say?

 


Thanks for checking in!!

Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof

1973 Mustang -Project Sports Roof – Mach 1 Grille Part II

Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof.  Progress is being made and I’d like to finish up these post

73 Mustang – Valve Cover Gasket And Lucas Additive

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Yesterday started out just great, weather-wise.

In the two videos below I talk about valve cover gaskets, the current lack of experts at your local parts store, and online “No Help” clerk and a recommendation for the Mustangs regular dosage of Zinc – not in table form for the Mustang’s  351 Cleveland!!!

First valve cover gaskets:


Lucas Zinc additive:


Thanks for reading. Check out the next post.

Tim

ProjectSportsRoof

1973 Mustang – Engine Bay Work

If you look back at #ProjectSportsRoof post you’ll see the condition engine bay.  During those videos I mentioned that I was going to clean it up and hit it with a rattle can.  Again this isn’t going to be a concours restoration, it’s going to look nice and it’s going …
1973 Mustang – Project Sports Roof – Vacuum System Part II

Thanks for checking on #ProjectSportsRoof.   So here is the last set of initial questions. Here is an image of the current set up: Any diagram I find has the hose vacuum from the Distr going to the Valve assy. The Valve assy has nothing attached which is located on the front …

Project SportsRoof – Valve Noise Solved!

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It’s been a while!!!!

Ya know, one would think that as you get older there’s more time for leisurely things.  But as second year teacher (at the age of “past 50”) and coaching our school’s basketball team there is no slowing down.  That’s my only excuse for not working much on Project SportsRoof.  Ok there’s one more….we’ve had a colder and wetter than normal winter.   This episode is purely due to “Spring Break” and having our taxes done (almost).

If you’ve followed along (did you know you can find Average Guy on YouTube as well?) you’ll know it’s been a long road with my 73 Mustang.  Multiple starts and stops, often caused by me exceeding my ‘Average Guy’s’ skill set and man power and even my car disappearing for a couple of weeks (but I found it).  Oh and don’t forget the tow truck driver that “broke” my front end!

Now SR73 (not SR71 the blackbird aircraft) or #ProjectSportsRoof is back on the road.  Having only driving about 30 miles since the engine rebuild, I noticed a lifter noise.  Not something you want to hear after all the time and $$ spent on it’s 351 C, in fact it’s a bit concerning.

The best place to start troubleshooting is to make sure the engine is getting the oil it needs.  That requires pulling the valve cover and running the engine.   Since I put the heads together myself, it’s a good idea to check the torque on the valves.  What better time to check that than when you have to take the valve covers off anyway?

Here is my quick video recap. There are a couple good tips in this one and here is a one more great tip. I can’t take credit for it because was shared with me sometime back. Should you have an old set of valve covers, cut the tops off to make viewing possible. That way when you let the car run (it’s the easiest way check if oil is flowing) the spraying oil is somewhat contained. You won’t see that in these videos….but you will see the mess it makes when you don’t use them!!!

Don’t forget to drop a comment, if you are so inclined.  Oh, if you have an event you’d like to tell other car peeps about, let me know and I’ll post it up!!

 

 



Follow Up: Reusing the old gasket!!



Thanks for visiting our site. You can find us on Facebook (search groups for Average Guy’s Car Restorations and Projects) and YouTube.

Tim

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part I

I’ve done all the clean up and all the adjustments necessary to get a good reading on the health of the ’72 351C engine in my 1973 Mustang. The next step is to check the compression. First up was to warm the car a bit and then pull the plugs. Here’s what the …

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part II

This is the wrap up on the compression testing for the 1973 Mustang w/ a 1972 351 Cleveland power plant. You’ll might have notices that I referred to the remote tester, which is my code for remote starter…yeah…that’s it!!! All of these tests were dry test and I should have done a …

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression, Rods and Heads

Thanks for check in on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you remember a of couple months back, shortly after bringing the ’73 Mustang home, I conducted a compression test on all the cylinders.  The 351C was running rough (to put it mildly) and smoked like a pile of tires on fire (only the smoke …

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Engine Bay Components.

I thought I’d take a minute and catch the readers up on #ProjectSportsRoof. I wanted to touch up some of the engine bay components, horns, vacuum canister and battery tray.  I didn’t want to alter some of these too much, I like having the numbers, logos and other info visible, not …

Corvette Mustang – Corvette Mustang – Then and Now

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Over on Facebook one of the groups has a Then and Now series of posts.  That consisted of folk posting the cars they were driving 10 years ago and now.  I thought that was cool so I put quick clip together for my rides then and now.

For sometime now I have a Mustang Corvette combo, my  ’70 Mustang/84 Vette combo and my ’73 Mustang/’07 Vette combo.

 

Just a little trip down memory lane!!

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Project SportsRoof – 73 Mustang Update

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Let me start out with a couple of pics of something most followers of my sight haven’t see in a couple years.

Project SportsRoof – not up on jack stands!!!!

The Stang getting a full tank….IN PERSON!!!!

It’s great to have it back on the road!!

As you know, I had a recommendation to have some work done on #ProjectSportsRoof. The story was this shop was expanding into Tucson and the son of the owner was going to run local ‘branch’. That was only 20% true. The son (for whatever reason) rented a bay from a garage here in town. Instead of paying rent he was going to do free repairs for the shop owner. Shortly after the Mustang was at the location, his deal with the owner went south and so did my car!!!

For two weeks I could not get hold of guy and when I showed up at the place he was supposed to be working, I was told they had no idea what was going on.  Shortening the story about 2 months, my car is finally returned to me.  Running great, but missing ‘stuff’.  You can see the that part of the story here:  https://wp.me/p2YxYx-5fK

BTW Twisted Addiction was the name of the shop and I still hear good things about the work they do in a town about 50 miles from here.  But my experience was beyond crappy!!!

After wrestling with the shifting lever I needed to get the car on the road (O.K. – more like a want) I turned to a unique garage.   They are unique not because they are one of a kind, in fact they are a chain.   They are unique because the owner/partner pushed the envelope on the range of cars he would allow his team to work on.   Work on older cars was  (and is) not part of the chain’s business model, and certainly helping out the locals on their old project cars wasn’t either.  But they did and with the new owner/partner, they’ve grandfather me and my project in.  They were there when I needed help on my current project.  From my 1970 Mustang to my 1984 Corvette and now with 73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof) they didn’t hesitate.

I had the SportsRoof towed to the shop and the damage to the suspension wasn’t as bad as it could have been, but there was not need for it to occur.  You can see the story here: https://wp.me/p2YxYx-5hV.

I have the Mustang back and there was a mix of used and new parts added to fix the suspension damage.

And now I have it back and still stinging from the series of set backs, but happy to have it drivable again.  Here is a video update.

 




I am looking forward to finishing up the interior, some electoral,  dash components, heater/AC box, and more.  So check back.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

1973 Mustang Project SportsRoof – Exterior Walk-Around

Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof.  I run my car projects much like I run my IT projects.  You always have to know where to start and know the end game.   As with any project that isn’t being built from scratch, in other word, you have to work with what you’ve got, …

1973 Mustang – Project Sports Roof – Pertronix Ignitor Update

Well win some and you lose some.  If you’ve seen my other posts related the replacement of the points and condenser for the 351C you’ll notice that I gave conversion high marks.  This was all based on the years of use I got out of the conversion I did on …

Project SportsRoof – 73 Mustang – Suspension Damage.

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So today the Mustang was going to make a quick trip the shop down the street to have the valve body put back in the transmission. The tow truck driver got the ‘Stang off-center on the flatbed and decided to winch it sideways. Only problem he wrapped the chain around the lower control arm. I was on the phone and heard a sickening snap. The bottom of the lower control arm is now facing the front of the car and you can see the rest here.  Video is below the pic.


Hoping the frame isn’t bent…but it might be. That would require some framework. If that doesn’t work then it might require a new front end.

Will update when I have news.

Thanks for reading.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part I

I’ve done all the clean up and all the adjustments necessary to get a good reading on the health of the ’72 351C engine in my 1973 Mustang. The next step is to check the compression. First up was to warm the car a bit and then pull the plugs. Here’s what the …

Project SportsRoof Shifting Linkage Part IV

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More work on my 73 Mustang’s shift lever. I have the pan off and removed the valve body. You can get a good look at the what needs to happen next.

 

 

Here is the bolt pattern for the valve.

The dots show the bolts to remove.

Over on www.7173Mustangs.com one of the experts modified a open end wrench like this:

We’ll see what I can find to remove this nut.  That will be coming up shortly.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof

1973 Mustang – Project Sports Roof – Vacuum System Part II

Thanks for checking on #ProjectSportsRoof.   So here is the last set of initial questions. Here is an image of the current set up: Any diagram I find has the hose vacuum from the Distr going to the Valve assy. The Valve assy has nothing attached which is located on the front …
Project SportsRoof Shifting Linkage Part II

Thanks for checking back in on #ProjectSportsRoof.  My 73 Mustang doesn’t what to get it in gear so I have to troubleshoot the shifting linkage. For this round, I’m putting in new bushings to remove the slop when shifting. Here is the video: I’ll be tightening up the shift lever and linkage to …
Project SportsRoof Shifting Linkage Part III

Welcome back to Project Sports Roof (#ProjectSportsRoof).   The struggle is real!!! You saw in the last video my replacement of the linkage that was lost by the repair shop (along with my new battery and started).   This repair shone the light (as often happens with older cars) on a previous …
Wrenchin’ Tip – ’70 Mustang Transmission Swap

As I get ready to start the new round of mods for my 1970 Mustang Coupe, I’m reminded of a couple of issues that came up when I was assisting  a fellow Mustang owner doing a trans –  transplant. The first tip is partially dependent on what stage you are in …