Mod Decisions for ’70 Stang – Update 12/7/2010

What you will see unfold in these updates is an exercise in project management for the modifications.  When I originally scoped out the components for the 302 that replaced the 250, I used a similar process, but very detailed.  I wasn’t overly concerned with improvements other than what a dropped in 302 would provide over that tired old straight 6. (Clearly..I left the 3 speed manual trans in it.)

But this time it’ll be different.  There is a lot to do and unlike the previous rebuild, money will be tight and free time limited.  The main goal I have is to keep the car in operation in between stages of modification.  This will take a clear and well laid out plan, where issues similar to the installation of the dash pad before the pillar post trim arrived (doh!), could be more than just a cost in time.

Below is a high level sketch of what I’d like accomplish with the Mustang.  I’ll update this list with more details as I figure which brands, sizes and the like that will be used.  Over on my Facebook pages I have already received some feedback and suggestions and I’ll post these up here in some cleverly titled entry.

So give me your suggestions or opinions and as the progression goes even tell me if you don’t like the choice and why.

Brakes and Suspension:

– Upgrade to 4 wheel disc (Brand and size TBD)

– Replace front and rear stabilizer bars (Brand and size TBD)

– Control arms already replaced

– Rebuild power steering

– Shocks already upgraded

Exhaust:

– Add cut-out before mufflers

–  Extend tailpipes to exit rear

No other changes anticipated

Interior:

– Addition of upgrade dash and interior lights

– Possible upgrade of all gauges

– Replace front seat belts with 3 point harness

– Carpet replaced

– Seats re-upholstered (upgrade to Leather/Cloth?)

– Paint lower doors

– Tilt steering wheel (Flamming River?)

Training:

Transmission

– Option 1 – Manual 4 speed with Hurts shifter

– Option 2 – T5 5 speed

– Rear Differential * Unsure if upgrade is possible or required

Engine:

* 302 stays

– Replace intake (Brand and size TBD)

–  Replace 650 Holley (Holley 750 Avenger)

–  Replacement of heads for more  performance (undecided)

–  Add custom mounting and tension for Power Steering/Alternator

–  Remove Fan and replace with electric

–  Add more chrome to engine (but not too much Bling..hate too much Bling)

Exterior:

Paint stays except:

– Blacked out rear light deck

– Black  Hood stripe (1970 Boss 1970 302 or 1970 Mach 1) – See images below – What do you think?

– Blacked out grill

– Black Front Spoiler

– Black side Boss 302 Stripe (w/o the Boss) (dependent on hood choice)

– Magnum 500 wheels (newer version, not originals)

Hood lay outs:

Mach 1 Hood...Perhaps my favorite...currently not considering adding a scoop

Boss 302 Hood lay out

O.K., let’s hear your thoughts.  They will automatically appear to the right of this posting and I’ll add the good ones in the update posts.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Readers comments and suggestions:
Byron McElfresh December 6 at 9:09pm Report
I seen your asking for advice on heads for a 302. I built a 302 that was .040″

over bore, The larger hyd. roller ford performance cam, used edelbrock rpm

heads, i did a little clean up and evened out the valve bowls, flat top

pistons, a 750 holley Street advegner carb, rpm intake, 1 3/4″ headers, and it

made 416 hp at 6000 rpm, and 349 tq. on the dyno. in the 60 Falcon with 3.73

gears, and a 4 speed,( the guy really needs an auto trans or get a shifter that

won’t granny shift speed wise!!!) But he still ran a 12.61 at gateway.

Wow, that’s pretty good. My 302 is bore .030. Hooker headers and 65O holley. I

wasn’t planning on changing out the cam. Now the rear end great. I just can’t

do the automatic trans though!

Byron McElfreshDecember 6, 2010 at 11:43pm
Re: Hi Tim,the 302
lol-the reason I think the guy should o to an auto trans is the ultra slow

shifts he makes with the old toploader! It’s a very painfully slow 2-3

shift!!!You can almost hear the multiple double clutches! yikes! lol

Tim Sweet December 6 at 10:11pm
good point

————————————————————————

Philip Daly December 6 at 8:58pm Report
351w

Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:36pm
Thanks Philip, But won’t that reduce compression? How much would you gain with

351w heads?

—————————————————-

Terry Wallace December 6 at 8:47pm Report
Ford Motorsports usually has some really great deals on 302 old school engines.

I would check there first. When it comes to flow numbers im finding through my

own testing at my machinists shop,,,,,most numbers are bullshit. beware and

test flow numbers using a reputable shop.

Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:35pm
Thank Terry. I’m with you on the numbers game…happens a lot even with

Corvettes. Regards

—————————————————————–

Bill Rice December 6 at 8:46pm Report
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Great gains in HP and Torque.

Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:42pm
Thanks Bill – what do you think those number might look like over a 302, bore

.030, hooker headers?
______________________———————————————————

—————–

Corvette Hangout December 6 at 8:28pm Report
C&C aluminum heads with small chambers to get higher compression larger valves

and install 150 shot of nitros.. CorvetteHangout

Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:44pm
I can get behind the higher compression..but I haven’t decided on NOS yet.

Thanks.
_————————————————————————-
Fatherlarry Monaco
‎1969 and 1970 Boss 302 heards and intake will work great.

Tim Sweet That was a thought I had as well.
2 seconds ago · Like

————————————————————————

Roy Oberg Aluminum is the way to go, go with a smaller combustion chamber that will give you more compression and less chance of spark knock.
about an hour ago · LikeUnlike
#
Tim Sweet ‎100% on board with the smaller chambers.
2 seconds ago · Like

Auto Factoids – 1970 Mustang – Ford Assembly Line

Today is the anniversary of the assembly line created by Henry Ford, did he?

Like saying night is day or Pink Floyd isn’t the greatest rock band of all time, saying Henry Ford didn’t invent the assembly line goes contrary to conventional auto wisdom. But he didn’t. It was actually Ransom E. Olds.

I love engines and the options for a 1970 Mustang – like mine, were many.

 

My Mustang's Enhanced 302

The sixes consisted of the 200  (120 hp) and the 250  (155hp) –  mine started out as a 250

 

The eights consisted of  2 302 (2V and the 4V Boss), 2 351 (250 and 30o hp), 2- 428 (Cobra – 335 hp and Cobra Jet Ram-Air – 335 hp and the 429 Boss – 375 hp.

The transmission offered were – 3 speed manual Fully synchronized (currently the trans in my car), 4 speed manual sports-type w/Hurst Shifter and in the automatic the Select Shift Cruise-o-Matic Drive (more on that in another Auto Factoid.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

 

“The Mustang Dynasty” (Book Review)

I’ve had this book on the shelf for a couple of years now.  It is a  great reference to own.

The book is by John M. Clor and it features Mustang Memorabilia, a lot of cool stuff.

First thing inside the front cover is a CD entitled “Sounds of Mustang”.  Yup you guessed it engine sounds.  It includes:

– Launch and drive by of a 1967 Shelby GT 50o w/428 big-block

– Burn out of a 1973 Grande

– 1983 Mustang GT 5.0

– 1988 Mustang LX and spinning tires

and a bunch more.

The other items are:

–  brochure for 1962 prototype

– 1965 Registered Owners manual and a Ford Mustang Registered owner id card

– 1967 Ford Exterior color selections card

– 1967 Fourth Annual Glen National 500 pit pass

– 1970 Mustang Rallye (yes it’s spelled that way on the sticker) Day USA sticker for April 1970

– 1971 Mustang sale brochure

–  really cool Fold Up Model card (you can cut it out and fold it for a 3d model) of a 1974 Mustang (we use to have one of these cars)

– invitation to the Mustang 20th Anniversary from 1984

– flier from Ford’s Party Plenty..Mustang’s Twenty party, held at the Westin Hotel at the Renaissance Center in Detroit

– 1979 Mustang Official Indy Pace Car bumper sticker

– 1990 press release for the 25th Anniversary special edition Mustang from Public Affairs, Ford Division

– Tickets from the 1994 and 1999 Mustang Club of America’s Anniversary celebrations

– a 2007 Shelby Cobra sticker, and 2003 Mustang 1 sticker

These are all reproductions contained in pockets on the pages so they can be removed, the stickers are actually usable.

The book contains a lot of pictures and facts.

This book is a MUST have if you are a Mustang nut, but the are tough to find at times. (ISBN – 9781932855807)

Speaking of facts there’s an Auto factoid coming.

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

 

mustang dynasty

More Car Art – Who says the Average Car Guy doesn’t like art??

Well, I don’t know about every car guy, but I do know what I like.

Some of my favorites are abandon car art, but I enjoy a lot of other subject matters as well.

If you look  to the right of this post you’ll see one of my favorites.  My old 1984 C4  red Corvette, closely following what would be my future car(unbeknownst to me at the time) a black C6 Corvette.  I have one other favorite and that’s a rendering of the interior of my 1970 Mustang.

My 1970 Mustang

I’ve known this starving artist (he’s not really starving, my wife won’t allow that) his entire life.  Ryan has a great eye for car art. (Shameless plug.  This image and the image of the Corvettes, nicely framed, make great gifts, tis the season.)

While tooling a round a little town in Southern Arizona this past Black Friday (Nov 26), I happened to meet an artist named Scott Taft and had to purchase  a picture of 1959 Chevy that he had transferred to metal.  You can see his work at http://www.fanartreview.com/sctaft.

One other web site I ran across was this one, it’s got a little more bling, but some very nicely done pieces. It’s called Car Art Work and you can see their offerings @ www.carartwork.biz.

Car Art Work

Just for the record I don’t receive any money, free stuff or benefit in any way (other than a big thank from my son if one of his images sell) for mentioning these artists or companies. This just stuff I like.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Auto Factoids for 11/7/2010 and Beyond

Catching up and finishing up Nov. 2010

11/10/14 – The first Dodge is produced and on the same day 11 years later Ford built its first Tri-Motor airplane.

Not the plane:

1914 - 4 Door Dodge Touring

This is the plane:

Fords 1925 Tri-Plane

11/11/1940 – The first Jeep

1940 Jeeps

11/12/1908 – GM takes over Oldsmobile.

11/25/1844 – Mr. Benz was more in Karlsruhe, Germany (Been there, the wine is excellent, the beer is better and the food is OUTSTANDING!)

11/26/1966 -The DeTomaso Mangusta debuts

1966 DeTomaso Mangusta

11/27/1870 – Joe Mach’s birthday. Yeah…the guy that started MAC trucks.  The company started when Joe and his brothers purchased a carriage and wagon company in Brooklyn, N.Y.  The first vehicle they produced was a tour bus. (1900)  Next up was rail cars and locomotives. At the time they used the name Manhattan.  Somewhere between 1910 and 1911 the name changed to Mack at about that time the Mack brothers bought a truck company.  Oh..in case you are wonder the Bulldog became their logo in 1922 and the name was changed to MACK Truck.  When I was a very young, we called all tractor-trailer Mack Trucks.

1910 Mack Hook and Latter firetrucks

New Auto Factoid format.

The Ford Mustang sold 419,000 cars in the its first 12 months on the marked. That number trumped the 417,000 cars set by the 1960………………Ford Falcon!!!!

1960 Falcon - 417,000 Sold First 12 months

Ford Mustang II Concept.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Tires: Nitrogen – Winter Air – Summer Air

If you’ve read my blog or found me on Facebook or MySpace or various forums you know that I recently picked up a 07 Corvette, which I love.

One of the things I notices was that the tire valve stems and a little “N2” them.  This was done to suggest that Nitrogen at one time filled the BFGs.

Valve Stem Caps

I wondered if any one (Average Guys) really put Nitrogen in their tires and really how much difference could it make.  When I asked a few guys at my vette club Arizona Corvette Enthusiast (ACE), we had lot of “Winter Air and Summer Air” discussions.  It stems from an old joke about a service attendant’s answer when asked by a customer why their was an extra charge on his bill when he had is tires rotated.  The attendant stated is was for filling them with winter air.

Of course there’s no such thing,  Nitrogen is used in tires, but is there really any benefits?

So what does GM say about the use of Nitrogen in tires?

From GM’s document #05-03-10-020C: Use of nitrogen Gas in Tires – (Apr 27, 2010)

GM’s Position on the Use of nitrogen Gas in Tires
General Motors does not oppose the use of purified nitrogen as an inflation gas for tires. We expect the theoretical benefits to be reduced in practical use due to the lack of an existing infrastructure to continuously facilitate inflating tires with nearly pure nitrogen. Even occasional inflation with compressed atmospheric air will negate many of the theoretical benefits. Given those theoretical benefits, practical limitations, and the robust design of GM original equipment TPC tires, the realized benefits to our customer of inflating their tires with purified nitrogen are expected to be minimal.

The Promise of Nitrogen: Under Controlled Conditions
Recently, nitrogen gas (for use in inflating tires) has become available to the general consumer through some retailers. The use of nitrogen gas to inflate tires is a technology used in automobile racing. The following benefits under controlled conditions are attributed to nitrogen gas and its unique properties:

• A reduction in the expected loss of Tire Pressure over time.

• A reduction in the variance of Tire Pressures with temperature changes due to reduction of water vapor concentration.

• A reduction of long-term rubber degradation due to a decrease in oxygen concentrations.

Important: These are obtainable performance improvements when relatively pure nitrogen gas is used to inflate tires under controlled conditions.

The Promise of Nitrogen: Real World Use
Nitrogen inflation can give some benefit by reducing gas migration (pressure loss) at the molecular level through the tire structure. NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) has stated that the inflation pressure loss of tires can be up to 5% a month. nitrogen molecules are larger than oxygen molecules and, therefore, are less prone to “seeping” through the tire casing. The real obtainable benefits of nitrogen vary, based on the physical construction and the materials used in the manufacturing of the tire being inflated.

Another potential benefit of nitrogen is the reduced oxidation of tire components. Research has demonstrated that oxygen consumed in the oxidation process of the tire primarily comes from the inflation media. Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that oxidation of tire components can be reduced if the tire is inflated with pure nitrogen. However, only very small amounts of oxygen are required to begin the normal oxidation process. Even slight contamination of the tire inflation gas with compressed atmospheric air during normal inflation pressure maintenance, may negate the benefits of using nitrogen.

GM Tire Quality, Technology and Focus of Importance
Since 1972, General Motors has designed tires under the TPC (Tire Performance Criteria) specification system, which includes specific requirements that ensure robust tire performance under normal usage. General Motors works with tire suppliers to design and manufacture original equipment tires for GM vehicles. The GM TPC addresses required performance with respect to both inflation pressure retention, and endurance properties for original equipment tires. The inflation pressure retention requirements address availability of oxygen and oxidation concerns, while endurance requirements ensure the mechanical structure of the tire has sufficient strength. This combination has provided our customers with tires that maintain their structural integrity throughout their useful tread-life under normal operating conditions.

Regardless of the inflation media for tires (atmospheric air or nitrogen), inflation pressure maintenance of tires is critical for overall tire, and ultimately, vehicle performance. Maintaining the correct inflation pressure allows the tire to perform as intended by the vehicle manufacturer in many areas, including comfort, fuel economy, stopping distance, cornering, traction, tread wear, and noise. Since the load carrying capability of a tire is related to inflation pressure, proper inflation pressure maintenance is necessary for the tire to support the load imposed by the vehicle without excessive structural degradation.

Important: Regardless of the inflation media for tires (atmospheric air or nitrogen), inflation pressure maintenance of tires is critical for overall tire, and ultimately, vehicle performance.

There you have it.  But the experiences of the Average Guys I’ve asked, detected no difference for daily driving or when we take our toys to the track.

Thanks for reading

Tim.

Looking for a Used Engine – Tips

When I began the restoration of my ’70 Mustang I knew that I wanted to replace the 250 straight six, with 175k miles on it, soon. I had several option, buy a new engine, buying rebuild or buying used.  I chose to buy a re-manufactured long block and add my own components.

The option of buying a used engine and rebuilding myself wasn’t an option (average guy, average space and average tools) but I would have enjoyed it.

If you are going to purchase a used engine, dragging out of a junk can save you even more.  But you’ve got to check it out before getting it home.

Here are a few tips that you can follow help prevent getting something home that the only real use it can server is to fill a corner the garage.

Now you aren’t going to be able to tear the engine down right there and look over all the parts  but you could do the following checks.

1.  If the engine still has the  spark plugs, pull them a look them over.  If they appear to have oil on them you might be looking at ring or value job being necessary (you might want to do that anyway).  Likewise if they have water on them you may be looking at a head gasket problems or worse.

 

 

Fouled plugs

 

 

2.  Most likely you are going to be able to pull the heads but you can remove the value covers. Look at for large mounts of sludge build up.  That indicates other issues as well.

 

Sludge Build up

 

 

3.  If you can drop the oil pan, check the contents for water or coolant contamination.  You can also inspect the oil pump.  Issues there indicate that there may be damage to pistons  and crankshaft.

 

 

Oil Pan Gunk

 

 

Currently I’m looking for a used manual 4 speed for my ’70 Mustang.   Now I don’t have any tips for that yet but I’ll let you know.

Thanks for reading

Tim

Mustang Transmission Swap

This was too good to just pass up and too much to just repeat here.  That’s coming up next for my ’70.

So from http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/09/t5swap/index.php, here is some very good information on upgrading your Mustang’s (Ford’s) transmission.

 

Overdrive transmissions are a great thing. They enable you to significantly improve the gearing and acceleration of your car, while maintaining gas mileage and highway cruisability. Unfortunately overdrives, manual or automatic, weren’t offered in Ford vehicles until the late 70’s. But that doesn’t mean you have to be stuck with the non-overdrive C4’s. C6’s, and manual 4 speeds of the 60’s. Swapping in a late-model overdrive transmission, namely the T5 manual and the AOD automatic, is a straighforward swap for 289, 302, 351 equipped cars. In fact on most early Fords, the swap is so easy it makes you wonder if Ford was thinking ahead. In this article we’ll go over what it takes to swap in a T5 tranmisssion into an early Ford. In future articles we’re go over an AOD swap for early Fords, and also an AOD to T5 swap for late-model Mustangs.


Slight clearancing of the shifter opening in early may be required. We had to do it on our ’67 Mustang, but in a ’65 the T5 lined up perfectly.

Swapping into early Mustangs, Falcons, Mavericks, and Pintos is easy because the hole in the transmision tunnel for the shifter is in about the same spot on all the cars. The swap is also easy for Fox body cars such as the Granada.

For other Fords, namely the full-sized cars, the swap is a bit more difficult because the engine is placed farther forward in relation to the driver. Ford
used modified shifters and/or longer tailhousings to set the shifter back for the original transmissions in these cars. Unfortunately there is no such modification we know of for T5’s.

If your car is currently equipped with a non-overdrive manual transmission (Ford 3spd, 4spd, or Toploader) the swap is as simple as a clutch job, you can use your existing clutch and flywheel, but you’ll need a crossmember and possibly a slip yoke and driveshaft as mentioned below. For cars with automatics you’ll need to first install a clutch pedal and round up the clutch activation parts (either manual clutch linkage or a cable operated clutch.)

We’ve seen the T5 in several Falcons and Comets originally equipped with column shifters. The owner had to punch a hole in the transmission tunnel and fabricate a longer shifter and/or replace the bench seats with bucket seats. Most Ford cars sold with automatic transmissions have factory stamped holes in the firewall for the clutch pushrod or cable. Usually a hard tap from a mallet will knock the stamp out.

For Bronco and Ranger owners, jamesduff.com sells adapters to bolt the T5 to 2.9L and 4.0L engines.

 

Toploader and T5 dimensions
Transmission A B C D F
Ford Toploader (small block) 6.375 13.25 25.375 n/a 5.5
Ford T5 6.9 14.5 24.7 15.4 5.5
Overal length (A+C) Toploader: 31.75 in.
T5: 31.6 in.



Where to find a T5?
The T5 transmission is a manual five-speed transmission manufactured for Ford, by Borg Warner (now Tremec.) The T5 was offered in Mustangs, Thunderbirds, Capris, and possibly other Ford vehicls from 1983 all the way up to 1996, but you have to be careful -there are different specifications for 4-cylinder, 6-cylinder, and V8 cars. What you want is a T5 from a V8 car, ideally a Mustang. The 1983-1989 V8 T5’s are rated at 265 lb.ft. of torque, while the 90-93 T5’s are rated good to 300lb.ft of torque (93 Mustang Cobra T5 is rated for 310 lb.ft.) The difference is in the internal components and also the gearing. See the chart below for gearing differences. The 1994-1995 T5’s are not desirable because the input shaft length and thus bellhousing depth were changed to accomodate the new SN95 Mustang body style. If you do come across one of these dirt cheap the input shaft can be replaced with one from an earlier T5, but it’d have to be a really good deal (read free) to go through the trouble. Finally, we should mention that the T5 is also called the “World Class T5”, but many people incorrectly believe the term World Class refers to a stronger type of T5. All Borg Warner T5’s are considered “World Class”, so don’t rely on that term to indicate the type of T5 you have. The best bet is to find the T5 attached to the car, or with reliable evidence of the car it came out of. If that fails, look for the stamped aluminum tag hanging of one of the tail shaft bolts and use the ID chart to identify the model. Copy the numbers down and call D&D or Hanlon and beg them to tell you what year it’s out of.

While it is best to shoot for the 90-93 T5 due to its increase torque capacity, you shouldn’t pass up a good 83-89 T5, espeically if you’re engine is not heavily modified. We’ve found that T5 strength and longevity is more a factor of its condition and mileage rather than it’s torque rating. A used, high mileage, Cobra T5 will probably shift poorly and give out much sooner than a earlier T5 that came out of grandma’s car. The T5 in Project 11.99 was bought from a wrecked 1990 Mustang 5.0 with 50,000 miles. We’ve had it in the car for nearly five years now, over 400 passes at the strip, and it shifts as crisp as it did on day one.

By the way, always take the bellhousing and block plate if they are available. The T5 swap can be done two ways, using a T5 bellhousing or using an early Ford manual bellhousing. It is much easier and cheaper to use the T5 bell, we’ll explain why below.

What to pay?
Used T5’s can be bought for as cheap as $100 out of a wrecking yard, however we rarely ever see Mustang 5.0’s in public wrecking yards, most of the cars go to specialty dismantelers. You’re better off searching the classifieds and online Ford bulletin boards for guys parting out their Mustang, or perhaps upgrading to stronger transmission wanting to sell the T5 cheap. A fair price for a used, but not abused, less than 80K T5, is between $300 and $500. Any more than that and you should consider buying a rebuilt/refurbished T5 for around $700 from places like D&D or Hanlon. If you want to be extra safe you can buy the T5 new. Both the above sources, as well as Ford Racing Parts and Summit Racing, sell brand new T5 “Z” spec transmissions. The Z spec. transmisison is rated for 330 lb.ft. and sells for around $1300.

Car Shows – Strange Things – Engines

You put WHAT, in that thing?

As I’ve blogged before, I love engines!!!

Another entertaining aspect of car shows is to  see what some people will stuff under  their hoods.

Check these out.

1956 Nomad....what's under the hood?? See below.

If You guessed an LS2 Engine, you'd be correct!!!!

Oh..let’s not forget this guy!!!!

Is that a V8 emblem? Yup!! Is that an MG? Yup!

Yes it's a V8. And no I don't know why!!!

And what would a V8 MG be without………………………………

Of course side exhaust!!!! Yes there is one on the other side too!!

Got any good pics?  Drop them off and I’ll post them up.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Auto Factoids for Week of 11/14/2010

A few big ones this week.
11/15/1977 – Ford sell its 100 millionth CAR.   What was the car?  A Mustang?  One of the legendary F150s?  Nope it was a 1978 Ford Fairmont Futura  (the triple F).

 

Ford Fairmont Futura (The Triple F) Although some owners had an additional F to add.

The guy that started Honda Soichiro Honda was born 11/17/1906 in Japan.

11/18/1940 Buick produced it 4 millionth car.
http://ucapusa.com/heritage_buick.htm

 

 

1940 Buick Super Coupe

 

 

One day and 19 years later (11/19/1959) Ford stopped the production of the ugliest cars you’d love to own the “Edsel”.

 

 

1958 Edsel Corsair - Really..I don't think they're ugly./

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim