Welcome back to Average Guys Car Restoration.
Rear shocks required a bit of “extra” work to install and sadly a few of natures creatures, need to find a new home. Take a look:
#ProjectSports Roof now has all new shocks. There is still so much to do…coming up next brakes and upholstery.
Thanks for stopping by!!
Tim
I’ve finally put the fuel issues to bed with fuel line insulated, crushed line repaired, fuel pump upgraded and now a new carb. Through the process I’ve eliminated vapor lock – video proof showed the issue was with the carb float. Final analysis is that the float was cracked, filled with fuel and failed to control the level of fuel in the bowl.
Now the new carb is 1406 Edelbrock which is a downgrade from 800 CFM to 600 CFM (1413 Edelbrock). The #ProjectSportsRoof is running well. However, I don’t think I’ll leave it with the the 600. The 800 was in bad shape. Maybe only 60 miles on it, but it sat for too long, with bad fuel and just cleaning it up didn’t work. Some say the 800 is too much for the 351C but I noticed a difference between the two carb so the 800 it going back for a professional rebuild and it will end up back on the SportsRoof.
Here is the removal of the 800 and the installation of the 600.
Thanks for checking.
Tim
Well we’ve landed here temporarily with the vapor lock – not series of posts. Clearly we aren’t having a vapor lock issue and had I set up a camera much earlier I would have seen the issue pretty quickly.
With fuel spewing out of the carb, which isn’t ideal, we can narrow it down to a carb issue, not a fuel line getting to hot and not a fuel pump issue (but I’m glad I upgraded from the old one).
Here is the video of the float adjustment:
So my options at this point is to have carb rebuild or down size to 600CFM Edelbrock.
What would you do? Drop a not and let me know.
Thanks for checking in #ProjectSportsRoof.
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof, my RARE (snicker) 1973 SportsRoof Mustang (#SR73).
I’m catching up on the fuel issue with my 351 Cleveland.
I didn’t notice but in the last posting at the very end of the video when I’m attempting to start the car there is an issue with the carb. I totally didn’t catch it at the time nor did I see it in the video.
I really struggled with trying get a video on the removal and installation of the new Speedmaster Fuel pump. One of the hazards of working on a ‘semi-cool’ car like my Mustang – outside in the driveway, is that neighbors love to peek in on the status and of course chat. The installation had some many interruptions that the video was choppy and salvageable. I had some misgivings about the Speedmaster pump, more exactly the lack of support – no instructions for adjusting the configuration(which required disassembly to accommodate different applications and no specs on the fittings required). I did managed to get few tips and the after math. Here’s what it looked like:
Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73).
Tim
As I sorted out the fuel issues with my ’73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof) (#SR73) I was asked about the fuel system and what I used for reference.
I have all the manuals and specs with diagrams but the best I’ve found is from a a sales catalog. National Parts Depot has it laid out and labeled. You’ll have to excuse their SKU numbers but it’s a great resource.
Check it out: – OH I will have an update on the fuel issue coming up next, along with shocks and some other work being done on #SR73.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
Tim
As I shelter in place during the 2020 CoVid19 historic event (why didn’t they call it CovVid2020? that would have been cool…actually I really don’t care. m) I pondered many things. One of the most important ponderings (not a word) was the difference in body styles of the 1973 Mustangs like #ProjectSportRoof (#SR73).
According the all the numbers and confirmed by my Marti Reports (plug – the folks at Marti Auto Works are have access to soooo much Ford (and other brands) information. I always get their full set of reports and invoices/window stickers/data plates etc for my cars. That includes for my 1970 Mustang Coupe, my 2004 Ford SportTrac (pickup) and my 1973 SportsRoof – if you’ve never heard of them #1 Where you’ve been? and # 2 – Here ya go – https://www.martiauto.com.) #ProjectSportsRoof is a SportsRoof, not a Mach I. It’s body code is a 63D. As far as numbers goes that’s a good thing if you want/like unique. With only just over 10k produced (10,820 to be exact) my #SR73 is the lowest production body style for the last year of the Big Stangs. And we all know that – low production equals rare and rare equals more desire and more desire equals more value. (It doesn’t really – at least not always and not in this case…yet…check with me in about 100 years.) Just to give you the rest of the data, Mach I’s (body style 63R) numbers are over 35k – the 2nd highest. First highest is 2dr hard top (body style 65D) at 51,480, followed by Grande (body style 65F) at just over 25k, and by then the Convertible, body style 76D at 11,953.
The fact that there are different designations for the body styles (back to my pondering) what is the difference? I’m looking for the answers for at least the my 63D vs. 63R. Maybe even the between Grande (65F) and the 2dr hardtop (65D).
I think it would be “nice to know info”. For example all the welds on the SportsRoof were done by blind, one armed welders, using a mirror. (that’s not true…I don’t think!) I’d like to know that. There’s one response suggesting that they have a “…unique body code due to the added standard features.” Which is not specific enough. My SportsRoof came with Mach 1 interior package and slotted aluminum wheels those could be add by checking a box when ordering.
So I’ll keep send out quires and see if I can get anything more refined.
But the fact that my body designation is unique is cool. I have a habit of selecting unique cars. My 1970 Mustang was one of only about 11k produced that year, last of the medium sized Stangs. My 1984 Corvette was first year unique, for body style, engine, Z51 suspension and lowest drag coefficient windshield up to that point (yes…really).
If you think you know or have a guess drop me a note and I’ll update this post, or write a new one with and update.
Thanks for checking. Drop me a note!!
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof #SR73
#ProjectSportsRoof – 1973 SportsRoof #SR73
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof.
I continue to chase down the fuel issues on my 73 Mustang’s 351 Cleveland.
Last time on the “Day of Discoveries” found the fuel line crushed. This is the repair video. WARNING: It is longer than normal with a few Average Guy tips. Link:
So kick back, give it a watch and drop me a comment or two!!
Thank you.
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportRoof, the on going saga of my 1973 Mustang Sports Roof.
I have a lot of projects going on with ProjectSportsRoof, mainly because it NEEDS a lot work. Plus the whole COVID19 thing has parts on back order and shipping delays, blah, blah, blah!
I ordered a new fuel pump and the project shipping date was Oct 2020….canceled that order. Found one that was in stock and shipped in 3 days – DONE!
So as I wait for that important part, I figured I’d replace the front shocks, which by the way were on back order for 2 weeks. Turns out it was a good idea, as it uncovered an issue that might help solve a current problem…you’ll see!!
Now, I didn’t show you my step by step removal and installation, shocks are pretty straight forward. Here’s the video (BTW I don’t normally do a sit down chat but I did today):
Thanks for checking in!
Tim
Welcome back.
I’m shaking down the partial rebuild of the 1972 351 Cleveland in my 1973 Mustang dubbed, #ProjectSportsRoof (originally called SR-73, but reader keep asking me if could do MACH 4+ …yea, I didn’t think it was funny either). New cam, lifters, rods and a few other things, need to be giving a good working out. However, fuel issues have popped up.
Suspected vapor lock, but not sure, so I’m taking it one step at time. Step one insulate the gas line from the block. Here’s the video and results. I could have edited a bunch out but I wanted the viewers to see it as it happened – in this case it’s more like HEAR it. This is my way of saying the video is ….um…not great!! Watch the video and then give me your opinion on which option below you want me to try next.
1. Fuel Pressure test (because it might not be vapor lock)
2. Another option is to install an Electric Fuel Pump near the tank. This pressurizes most of the
fuel in the lines. Fluid under pressure is harder to vaporize.
3. Other options include installing a Phenolic Carb Spacer and/or a Carburetor Heat Shield to
keep the carburetor cool.
4. Swap from an 850CFM to 750 or 650CFM Carb (because it might not be vapor lock)
Find the comment box and let me know which one you want to see attempted or email me at AGCarrestoration@cox.net.
Thanks for checking in.
Tim
Vapor lock. What is it, why does it happen and how to tackle and solve the problem. We are going to do it together!
My 1973 Mustang with the newly re-constructed engine has gladly stepped up and volunteered to be our test subject. (Sarcasm or dismay? You decide!)
Where to start? Let’s go from the discovery of the problem to the possible causes to the possible solutions.
Took the gray beast out for another shake down run. I ran down the to local auto parts store, about a 3 mile drive and it was a spirited drive. I was searching for a bolt for the passenger side seat, some how misplaced the original when I was putting the new floor panels and carpet in. I was in the store for 8 minute top – they aren’t as friendly as they use to be. Use to be you would show up and chat up everyone and discuss what you were working on. These days you are lucky to find someone that knows what a bolt is. (Sorry but that’s almost true!!) As of this writing we are still in COVID19 lock down…(don’t judge me….I really needed that bolt!!!) and they were even less friendly. Sorry…I digressed. (O.K., if I was really sorry I’d go back and remove this, so lets just consider it “color” and not digression).
After 8 minutes (most of that as the clerk silently pawed through some bolts in the back), I returned to the Mustang and turned the key. It started hard – 4-5 tries. On the drive back it kept feeling like she wasn’t getting gas. Temporarily losing a bit of power. Got home lifted the hood and I could hear the gurgling in the carb.
Here are some specs on the 1972 351 Cleveland that is in my 1973 body:
351C V2
The block is bored out .o4o make it 4.040″
Crank machined .020 under.
Topped with a Edelbrock Performer intake and 1413 800 CFM 4bbl Carb.
Just replaced the cam with Comp Cam FC 268H-10 grind.
— Gross Valve Lifit .494 Intake and .494 Exhaust
— Duration .006 tappet lift 268 for both Intake and Exhaust
— Valve Timing @.006
—Intake Opent 28.0 and BTDC Closed 60.0 ABDC
— Exhaust opent 28.0 and BBDC Closed 20.0 ATDC
Installed Specs
@106.0 Intake center line
Duration @ .050 Intake 219 Exhaust 219
Lobe lift Intake .2860 and the same for Exhaust
Lobe separation 110.0
What is vapor lock?
Vapor lock causes a car to stop running when the fuel in the system overheats. It is most likely to happen when driving on hot days and in stop-and-go traffic. (It was only in the upper 80’s that day) Constant acceleration and deceleration makes your engine work harder, causing it to run hotter. (I was doing a bunch of accelerating – da!) Excess heat causes the fuel to vaporize. This keeps the fuel from reaching the engine.
Many carbureted engines have fuel pumps located near or next to the engine. (Yup!) The pump’s closeness to the engine, as with some T-types, causes the fuel in the line to become very hot. When heated, fuel turns to a vapor, like water turns to steam when boiled. This process is hastened by the vacuum created in the line as the fuel is sucked into the engine.
When the fuel turns to vapor, the fuel pump can no longer move it through the system. As a result, the fuel doesn’t get to the combustion chambers; the car runs roughly; or it dies. Meanwhile, the car will not restart or will continue to have problems if it does.
So, the main cause is over heated fuel and I’m guess hearing it boiling in the carb is clearly not a positive thing. Other cause could be:
— portions of the fuel line are to close to the engine or exhaust causing the over heating.
— to large of a carb leaving extra gas sitting in the bowls, being heated.
So, first I want check the positions of the lines. Check out the video.
There is only the one area that could be the problem and that is from the fuel pump to the carb. I pick up some Vapor Block
Fuel Line Split Sleeve by DEI. So I’m gong to wrap that area. We’ll see what happens, so check back
Thanks for check in!
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof
