Ok…decision time. Slots or American Racing Wheels ? Window sticker says it came with slotted mags.
What do you say?
Let me know what you think?
Thanks for reading.
Tim
Ok…decision time. Slots or American Racing Wheels ? Window sticker says it came with slotted mags.
What do you say?
Let me know what you think?
Thanks for reading.
Tim
Welcome to this weeks Auto Factoids (#AutoFactoids)!!!!
Back in 1977 on Nov. 15 Ford produced it’s 100,000,000. It was a 1978 Ford Fairmont and rolled out of the Mahwah assembly plant in New Jersey.
This car was in fact, a fox body, but gets as much respect as a K-Car.
But, you know me, I think any two door car can be made to look awesome…..
Back in 1906 the man who started one of the largest global car (and motorcycle) companies was born on Nov 17 in Iwata-gun, Japan:
Another millionth for the month of Nov. Back in 1940 Buick produced 278,784 cars (about 70k more than in 1939) one of those was the 4 millionth Buick and it rolled off the line Nov. 17th.
That car was a Buick Super Coupe like this one:
I’ve been doing these Auto Factoids for years and this next event never fails to make me scratch my head. Yup it’s the death of the Edsel. Killed by Ford on 11/19/1959 BOO HISS
Thanks for reading.
Tim
Auto Factoids for the Week of Nov. 1, 2015 – Packard Week
Keep up with this and #ProjectSportsRoof – get the feed.
Thanks for checking back on the 1973 Mustang #ProjectSportsRoof.
The power steering cooler is pictured below. It’s pretty ugly even when cleaned up.
Here is a little info from a fellow Mustang owner.
Steering coolers were an option from what I understand. My A/C car did not come with a cooler. I added one to my car later as it was just a simple bolt on.
Originally the extra long return line for the power steering box was U’d on top of the drivers side cowl brace that acted as a primitive cooler before returning back to the pump.
Someone told me that the ‘competition suspension’ option included the variable ratio power steering box and included the power steering cooler. However I have seen cars with the competition suspension option that did not have coolers. The owners claimed it never had one.
There are 2 different coolers one designed to be bolted on A/C cars over the compressor and the one designed for cars without A/C.
Ford had a revision to the return line in later cars, originally the return line was U’d on top of the drivers cowl brace then later they shortened the return line and just left it next to the high pressure line going to the box.
For the variable power steering box there was another power steering pump that had a different tag on it. HBA-CG was used with the variable box and HBA-CF was used with the standard box, nobody knows if the pumps are in fact different or not internally.The variable box was tagged SPA-T or SPA-V. The normal box was SPA-S and SPA-U.
I have a 72 H code originally with a FMX, A/C car, no competition suspension.
As for requiring a different pump, no, not that I am aware of I use standard power steering pump with the cooler, works fine.
Typical hose layouts for the coolers
I’ve seen a with the cooler painted or powder coated. However, that would severely hamper it’s ability to cool the fluid. They do look better.
Another Mustang owner recommended spraying the cooler with black radiator paint. That should do the trick.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Money!!
Project SportsRoof – This Just In – Cooler and Gauges
Thanks for checking on #ProjectSportsRoof.
So here is the last set of initial questions.
Here is an image of the current set up:
Any diagram I find has the hose vacuum from the Distr going to the Valve assy.
The Valve assy has nothing attached which is located on the front right side next to the alternator on the water pump housing.
The diagram for the 1972 351C shows that instead of going directly to the carb, the hoses from the distributor vacuum run to the Valve Assy. There also seems to be a second line running from the back of the distributor (in the diagram) – but that isn’t very clear.
Any ideas? Clearly the car runs without any of these connected – do I just plug them all?
Tim
Most car enthusiasts know that by the 1970’s all cars even ‘former’ muscle cars, were strangled in terms of power by a host of tubes, solenoids and funny looking flat or funnel like space age devices that were responsible for eliminating harmful emissions. In some cases they funneled fumes back in to the engine to be burned and supposedly rendering them less harmful.
When you are restoring a car of this vintage – especially one like my 1973 Mustang that has been sitting around a while, those tubes/hoses are often cracked, dried, split or ends stretched at the least for missing all together.
You have the option to remove all the space ag hardware (depending on the emissions regulations in your area) or replacing it all to restore to factory specifications. For the purpose of these series of posts let’s assume that I want to seriously limit the performance and power of #ProjectSportsRoof’s beautiful 351C and restore it back to factory configuration.
Now if you are expecting an expert run down on the care and feeding of the vacuum system for this project – you aren’t going to get that right up front. Why? Because it’s really not that straight forward at first and I have a few questions.
As I look at the diagrams for the vacuum system on a 1972 351C, I am not seeing anything that matches my set up.
Let me start back of the engine.
There is a solenoid on the back of the manifold (only bolted there) that I think is some diagrams is shown on the opposite side and in the front.
Here’s a better shot.
As you can see it has no power connected nor hoses. Is that the Solenoid Dist vacuum? I think so.
Source: www.mustangbarn.com
As you can see it’s in the front.
So the vacuum hose travels back up front to the Valve Ass. Distributor vacuum control?
Maybe because this is a A/C car the Solenoid Dist vacuum was relocated to the back, that is a lot of tubing!!
That’s the first set of questions, the front of engine is coming up next.
Tim
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression, Rods …
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression, Rods …
Just received a few more parts in for the 1973 Mustang project.
Check out the video.
Thanks for reading. Keep checking on #ProjectSportsRoof.
Tim
So after inspecting the head further, I noticed a few more reasons to have them reconditioned. Take a look:
As you can see there a lot of rust and old stuff plugging up some of the water passages.
The heads were sent out to a local machine shop run by an old hot rodder.
Here’s a quick video of the valves that were removed. You can see the build up as the oil (from the tappet hole) and the gas was continually ignited by the spark plug.
The good news the heads are back and installed. The bad news in my haste to get the car back together, I forget to get some shots of the completed heads. By the time I realized it was too late to go back.
The Cleveland is running strong, but needs a lot of work on the vacuum system and – I’m thinking of replacing the carb. Send me your on what to replace it with.
Motorcraft? Holly?
Thanks for reading.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof
Here are your Auto Factoids (#AutoFactoids) for the first week of Nov. 2015. I’m going to call this Packard Week (like Shark Week only on wheels)!!! Here is why:
Starting right off on the Nov. 1st 1955 Studebaker’s Hawk showed up on the car scene.
On Nov. 2, 1935 we have two events.
Continuing on with Packard Week, on Nov. 5, 1863 John Ward Package was born.
On Nov. 6 is a very busy day in Automotive history we have 3 major mile stones.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
#AutoFactoids
Auto Factoids for the Week of 5/10/2015 – GM and Corvair
Auto Factoids for the Weeks of March 15 and March 22 2015
I love it when a fellow car enthusiast shares their projects.
This is Lisa’s 1973 Mach 1
Saved after sitting in a junk yard for 21 years. WAY TO GO LISA!!! Daunting project to be sure…but you GOT THIS!!!
Lisa wrote:
“Thank you. That is the stock engine out of the original car. The car sat in a junk yard for 21 year before I got it, I thought for sure that it would be too far gone to do anything with but I was completely wrong. The fluids still looked new and once we had the engine out and sitting on a pallet, we rigged it so we could see if it would turn over and sure enough it did. Mine is also a 2v with a 4brl intake. ”
“I wanted to rebuild the engine as affordably as possible so the cam and lifters and the valve guides and seals are the only thing new other than the valve covers which I had to get because sand blasting the factory ones was pointless. The oil pan a friend of mine bought for me after I helped him install his transmission.”
My husband and I own a performance shop that also does machining and I was able to learn how to do the machining on my heads and block to save money on labor. I’ll definitely keep you posted as I progress. I hope you decide to get that mustang and restore it. I would love to see pictures.
You can definitely use my pictures on your blog.”
Here is the engine for Lisa Mach I.
Lisa, we are looking forward to seeing the progress on this beauty!!!
Oh…and google #ProjectSportsRoof or just stop by http://www.agcarrestoration.com/ and you can follow the progress on my 1973 Sports Roof.
Thanks again for sharing your project.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof
1973 Mustang Project SportsRoof – Exterior Walk-Around
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression, Rods and Heads
1973 Mustang Project Sportsroof – Engine Walk-Through.
Thanks for check in on #ProjectSportsRoof.
If you remember a of couple months back, shortly after bringing the ’73 Mustang home, I conducted a compression test on all the cylinders. The 351C was running rough (to put it mildly) and smoked like a pile of tires on fire (only the smoke was blue). Clearly there were some issues.
Here are the links to the posts were you can view the compression tests – RIGHT BANK – LEFT BANK.
To summarize, the cylinders topped out like this:
Cylinder 1 (Left Bank) – 130
Cylinder 2 – 25, 35, 60, 90 (Fail!!!)
Cylinder 3 – 140
Cylinder 4 – 135
Cylinder 5 (Right Bank) – 160
Cylinder 6 – 155
Cylinder 7 – 160
Cylinder 8 – 140
Clearly cylinder 2 has a serious problem and it could a host of things. Since it was so bad, I didn’t feel it necessary to conduct a wet test and just planned out pulling the heads.
Well the time came to get take care of that and it wasn’t long to disassembling that it was clear what was wrong with cylinder 2.
At first we thought…”Hey Cool!!! Extra parts!!” But of course that’s just not the case!!
It couldn’t be that the tappet just rolled there. Something else has to be an issue.
Oh…maybe…one of these was the problem?
Close inspection of the piston in cylinder 2 showed no signs of impact. As it appears thus far, that the bottom end of the engine is in good shape and the compression numbers for all the other cylinders and we bolstered that assumption with a visual inspection.
Think the heads need to be rebuilt and machined?
That’s coming up.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof