Thanks for checking back in on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you recall there was a lot of damage to the heater box, but rather than purchase a new one I opted to see if I could repair this original.
As of this post I’ve cleaned up the box and used JB Weld to put the pieces back in place and I’m ready to apply some fiberglass to harden everything up.
Here is a look at the fiberglass work.
What’s coming up next on the heater box work is a good look at the kit that you can buy that has some of the rubber seals, clips and replacement pads for the internal air flow doors. We are going to install those and but the box back together. I know you are on the edge of your seat for that one.
In these next two videos, you’ll see just how ‘off’ these fenders are in some areas and surprisingly how well they fit in other areas. If you have an experience or a hit for anyone taking on this part of a restoration – drop a comment here and we’ll share them. https://youtu.be/Ga9EHbDpSfg https://youtu.be/FBKs7EG4kK0 Thanks …
I know…it’s a bit of let down moving back to the heater box for # ProjectSportsRoof when the beautiful 351 Cleveland that’s going to power the 73 Mustang is …
I know…I know…it’s a bit of let down moving back to the heater box for #ProjectSportsRoof when the beautiful 351 Cleveland that’s going to power the 73 Mustang is sitting in the garage waiting to roar back to life, but the heater box has to get done.
As I showed you in the previous heater box post is was pretty much a mess. So after accessing the damage and apply epoxy to the broken pieces, I needed to clean it up before applying the fiberglass. Here’s a little look at that:
I need give a bit of caution here when doing the cleaning. Take a look at the part numbers on the heater box:
Those number are no longer there. The Simple Green clean removed them. I’ll mention again that this is not a concourse restoration, but nonetheless it’s always sad when you change or remove something that original that didn’t need to be. Yes it’s just the heater box and not something anyone is going to notice, but I know it’s gone as do you and all 17k members of this blog.
Coming up next on AG Car Restoration is fiberglass repair of the heater box and maybe I’ll sneak in sometime on the Cleveland.
With the heater box for #ProjectSportsRoof out form under the dash, I now have to do the repairs and replace the heater core. Here’s what needs to be done and …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is …
We interrupt this Heater Box restoration for an important announcement.
THE 351 CLEVELAND IS BACK!!!
The main piece of this project if finally complete.
Here’s what we have now: 351C bored .040 Crank .020 and Stock cam Flattop pistons Double Roller Timing Chain
Here’s what I’m going to add: Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold
Heads have been restored and upgrade as follows: Bronze valve guide, stainless 1 piece valves, MATCHING retainers, a proper 3 angle valve job, springs matched to cam and set up to proper height and pressure checked and hardened seats.
Here a more complete look:
The change in the bore only increased the CID (Cubic Inch Displacement) from 352 – 358 and that’s not a lot. But keep in mind that this is a 1972 engine and the 351C with a 4bbl carb was rated at 285 bph @ 5400 rmps (The Boss 351 was rated at 330bhp @ 5400). So I’m guessing with the Crank .020 milled, Edelbrock 4bbl 800 CFM, Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold and the slight change in displacement that the horse power of this 1972 Cleveland will be about 300 hp – maybe.
Keep checking back as I have to finish the heater box, engine bay and the top half of the 351C. Lots of fun coming up!!!
While the block is out for machining I can turn my attention to one of the MANY other sub-projects on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you’ve followed the blog you know …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is …
1 day ago … I didn’t purchase the window sticker for 1970 Mustang but I did for # ProjectSportsRoof. Check it out: 1973 Mustang SportsRoof Window Sticker.
While the block is out for machining I can turn my attention to one of the MANY other sub-projects on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you’ve followed the blog you know …
I’ve mentioned a few times here on Average Guy’s Car Restoration the great work that Marti Auto Works does to help car owners discover information about their Mustangs and other Fords that are important to being able to restore the cars and even help establish a value. They own the rights to the Ford databases and records prior to 1974 (some models up to 1989). These guys have everything..I mean everything. Give them the VIN number and they’ll pile on the data (it’s not free but very reasonable). They are authorized by Ford to reproduce window stickers and Protector Plates (identification plates that go on the inside door jamb) and more.
I didn’t purchase the window sticker for 1970 Mustang but I did for #ProjectSportsRoof. Check it out:
1973 Mustang SportsRoof Window Sticker.
That’s pretty cool but if you want the coolest thing (in my opinion) that they offer it is this:
The original Invoice!!!
This is the original – THE ORIGINAL – not a copy, not a reproduction – but the original – complete with pen/pencil marks and water stains – tucked way in a folder – invoice for my car. That is beyond awesome. The edges of the form didn’t make it into the scan but it all there.
The fact that it still exist is unbelievable and that I was able to purchase was great. It’s a great piece to have and I couldn’t appreciate the folks at Marti Auto Works more!!!!!
Check out the cost of 10 gallons of gas – $4.00!!!
Thanks for reading
Tim
You can find Marti Auto Works @ http://www.martiauto.com/
While the block is out for machining I can turn my attention to one of the MANY other sub-projects on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you’ve followed the blog you know …
While the block is out for machining I can turn my attention to one of the MANY other sub-projects on #ProjectSportsRoof.
If you’ve followed the blog you know that I’ve tackled the heater box (more to come on that) and as well as cleaning up the engine bay. As you’ve seen the interior needs work. I’ve completed floor pans (sealed/coated), new under-layment and new carpet. That was just the beginning, so much more to do on the inside.
One thing that makes restoring the interior go a bit smoother is having all the little things like screws and other fasteners. That’s where AMK Products comes in.
I saw an AMK commercial on one of the car restoration shows.
Here’s a brief look at what it contains:
It is pretty complete and well labeled for application. You can find more on their website. Go to https://www.amkproducts.com .
Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m working on the heater box and it is now out from under the dash. Although the box was easy to remove, …
I’m finishing the labeling of the components for the heater box before I pull it out. These videos help with replacing any “left over” parts and memory joggers.
Unfortunately I did discover an area of rust and that is never a good thing!!!
Take a look:
Coming up next the box comes out and we take a good look at it.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is …
Maybe one of the worse task to tackle on a car is the heater core. In particular on some older cars. In most cases you have to remove the entire dash. I know this because when the heater core sprung a leak in my 1974 Cobra Jet Torino, I didn’t have the time to fix it. I took it to a shop and the cost was hefty.
Since I’m doing a lot more of my own work on #ProjectSportRoof and I’m going to dive in and replace the heater core and like the Torino it is an A/C car.
Now the goal is to attempt to remove the box without taking the entire dash out – that is a huge time sync and it leads down the road of ” since I have it out, I might as well fix…”.
I refer to the heater box as the portion to the right of the blower, there are some references that include the blower as well. There are only 3 bolts holding the heater box in place, two are behind the unit and poke through the firewall and one is in the front. I’m hoping the rest is just getting it in the right angle to pull it out.
I don’t have a camera guy only a small tri-pod that I can set in limited flat spots and record what I can.
HINT: Remove the passenger seat, it sure does help.
Here we go:
Coming up we’ll take a close look at the box, access what needs to be done.
The 351 Cleveland is out of #ProjectSportsRoof. Yeah…I know!! It seemed like to took … Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m getting ready to pull the 351C …
Thanks for continuing to follow #ProjectSportsRoof. The 351 Cleveland has been torn down and you’ve seen the major components and their deplorable condition and it is time now to get it to the machine shop.
It’s not easy finding a good shop. While I was hunting around for a machinist I asked a few car guys I know for suggestions and found the two that were recommended were out of business. That is not uncommon. It is often times more expedient to just drop in a crate or re-manufactured engine (long or short block) and that’s tough to compete against. I was concerned that I’d have to transport the 351C block 100 miles away to check get the work done.
While I was searching for a shop, I was simultaneously search for a re-man’ed long or short block. Of course I was specifically looking for a closely date code 351C and I was told that those blocks are not plentiful. I took my local search to the hot rod shops (by hot rod shops I mean, shops that sell hot rod parts) in town and the shop I chose was recommended by several. I double checked the review that were available and these guys have a very good rep. I’m going to withhold the name until I get the block back.
Luckily I had the block still bolted to the engine stand. That and my cat-like reflexes (HA) kept a disaster from occurring.
Hoisted!!! ^^^ lots of Mustang parts
Not withstanding my attempts to bounce the block off the garage floor it is finally suspended and ready to get loaded.
Tied Down – This is the fastest this engine has done in months!!!
Upon arrival at the machine shop two guys unloaded the block and I asked them to measure the current bore and the size of the crank.
The results were as follows:
The stock bore is 4″ and the measurements of the current bore is .030 under making the bore 4.030. You’ve seen the condition of the cylinders and the shop recommended to take another .010 off making the proposed bore 4.040″.
Now the crank was measured as well and it was .010 machined from stock thickness. Purposed is to take it down another .010 to .020 under.
The shop recommended to replace the cam, so that will happen.
This ended the speculation about the originality of the engine. Clearly this was rebuilt at least once.
Now decisions need to be made. But first let’s take stock of where we are and then play a little “What If”, shall we?
Using this standard formula for determining displacement: Bore2 X Stroke X 0.7854 X Cylinders (laid out below from a spreadsheet)
Bore
X
Bore
X
Stroke
X
0.7854
X
Cylinders
=
Displacement
Stock
4
4
3.5
0.7854
8
351.8592
Current
4.03
4.03
3.5
0.7854
8
357.1568801
Proposed
4.04
4.04
3.5
0.7854
8
358.9315699
Just cleaning up the cylinders will move the displacement from 351 (stock) to 358 as proposed. That is currently where we are.
Now let’s play What If!!! What if I increased the bore a bit more? Here is what that look like in displacement terms.
Taking up the bore one more .010 to 4.05″ looks like this.
Bore
X
Bore
X
Stroke
X
0.7854
X
Cylinders
=
Displacement
Option
4.05
4.05
3.5
0.7854
8
360.710658
4.05 is the furthest I want to do with the bore – if it’s possible. I know one Mustang owner that has his bore 4.06″, however, I’m not comfortable with that. So we’ve increased the displacement 360.
Now let’s work on the stroke. The machining of the crank will net little to no change in the displacement. To increase that I’d have to go with a different crank. So what do those number look like? Leaving the bore at 4.04 and increase the stroke yields the following increases:
Bore x Bore x Stroke x 0.7854 x #Cylinders Displacement
Option
4.04
4.04
3.75
0.7854
8
384.5695392
Option
4.04
4.04
4
0.7854
8
410.2075085
Basically the 400
Let’s go a bit further with the increase in bore:
Bore x Bore x Stroke x 0.7854 x #Cylinders Displacement
Option
4.05
4.05
3.75
0.7854
8
386.475705
Option
4.05
4.05
4
0.7854
8
412.240752
Option
4.05
4.05
3.85
0.7854
8
396.7817238
Off the shelf long stroke cranks
Option
4.04
4.04
3.85
0.7854
8
394.8247269
Off the shelf long stroke cranks
Care to share your thoughts on the build? Drop me a note!!!
The 351 Cleveland is out of #ProjectSportsRoof. Yeah…I know!! It seemed like to took … Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m getting ready to pull the 351C …
Well we are finally at the next to last post for the tear down of my 1973 Mustang SportsRoof 351 Cleveland. Everything has been removed and we can not get a look at the last piece of the puzzle in figuring out what needs to be done to make this thing run again.
Take a look at the cylinders.
All the indications are that this engine was oil starved at some point. I’m sure it was a result of the valve supporting the #2 cylinder being fired shut, but that is still just a guess.
If you look back at earlier posts, I waffled between guessing if this Cleveland had been apart and worked on. Well by the sight of the cross-hatching it’s clear that the cylinders have been worked before and I’m guessing the rings are well.
Next the block, crank and cam are headed off to a machine shop and things become very clear after the experts look at this 351C.
The 351 Cleveland is out of #ProjectSportsRoof. Yeah…I know!! It seemed like to took … Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m getting ready to pull the 351C …
Thanks checking back in with the 1973 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof). … the knocking in the bottom end and if the 351 Cleveland in #ProjectSportsRoof is going …
