Tag Archives: Ford Mustang

#ProjectSportsRoof – Rear Brakes Change of Direction

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Every good saga needs an ending….even if it’s just terminated without a related solution.      

So it is with #ProjectSportsRoof (my ’73 Mustang) brake saga.    This all started when Bill – (#ProjectBeepBeep date) came over to help dial in the carb and timing on my 351 Cleveland.   We discovered brake issues after taking the Mustang couple test drives.  Front brake seemed to be doing all the work.  It was clear that brakes need to be bumped up on the list of things “needing doing”.

Gathering all the parts was easy enough.  As you now know that’s not true, the rear end had been frankenstein’ed and shoes were the main issue.

After thinking it over and I decided to go a different direction.   Since the fronts were disc why not go disc in the back as well. I started hunting around for prices and options.

There is a lot out there in the back of my head was Bill’s fabulous adventure with converting #ProjectBeepBeep to disc.  Prices very and so do configurations.   There is even a set up where you have small set of brake shoes that perform the emergency brake function and the disc brakes.  Like this:

 

There were also those that allowed the disc to handle the emergency braking.

I checked out all brands and all type.  As I was looking a downloaded PDF from  Master Power Brakes, I saw these:

Rear Drum Brake Conversion Kit: Legend Series Deciding to keep drum brakes on the rear of your vehicle is not a bad thing. What is a bad thing is not upgrading them to a system that makes sense. Our rear drum upgrade kit utilizes a large 11 inch drum, all new components and 1-1/8 inch wheel cylinders giving disc brake feel without the expense.

 

I have nothing against drum brake as they function (of course changing  pads is easier then changing shoes).  My 1970 Mustang used them just fine, even at the drag strip:

So read up a little more and decided to go with the Master Power Brakes’

Ford Mustang Rear Drum Brake Conversion Kit for Ford 9″- Legend Series.

Here’s a video:


 

These will bolt (you have to pull the axles) and they are 11″.

One side arrived already.

 

 I think it was a good choice.  I’d love to show you the installation but I’m not.   Pulling the axles is a messy job and outside temps are normally in the 100’s here in So. Az.   It’ll need new seals and bearing, so #ProjectSportsRoof is going into the shop next week.

But don’t worry I have a few posts on the install of the new calipers for the front disc coming up.

Thanks for stopping by!!!

Tim

 

 

 

 

 

#ProjectSportsRoof – Brake Shoes – The Measurements.

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If you stopped by to see a video on measuring for brake shoes, you’ll have to read instead.  I was pretty frustrated at the time and my selection of verbiage would have been Rate R. Sometime a story is best told through pic only.

I’m not inventing something new, merely showing where I went sideways and what I should have done.

For the record, most you know, I went with what the all the parts books said were the proper size, 10 in x 2 in.   Again, I took a quick measurement and it looked to be 10 in.

Here is what I should have done.

Measure the back plate.

yeah….11 inches not 10!

Inside Diameter

I captured my mistake on camera – just wee bit off not 2″ but 1.75″.

These are the measurement I should have taken.

So the story dragged on with the ordering of shoes for a Ford Galaxy – they were huge  and finally finding the 11 in x 1.75 in from a 1973 Bronco.   That was it!! They were the right size….even brought the old shoe with me and matched them at the store. 

Insert huge sigh

I installed them…almost.  Here’s why that didn’t work.

Old shoe is on the top and it’s tapered.

Here is a closer look.

That little bit of taper was key to getting the brake shoe under the shoe retainer washer.

The width of the new brake shoe was too side and forced the washer (times referred to a shoe guide plate) too far out on the pin and left no room for both springs and the auto adjuster.

So my solution failed.  What’s next?  Maybe a different direction for #ProjectSportsRoof?

Thanks for checking back!!

Tim

#SR73

 

 

 

#ProjectSportsRoof – Brake Shoe Consternation!

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Oh well this is crazy…of course it would have been easier if I followed the old adage, measure twice – post once.  I’ll get to that in a minute.

Every one of the parts house and everyone in one of the online forums and Facebook groups (including mine Average Guy’s Car Restorations and Projects) said the rear brake shoes for #ProjectSportsRoof were 10 inch by 2 inch.  Maybe  because that’s what the parts books said it should be so I went with that.  I did a quick measurement of the shoes (not the drums). 

Ordered the 10×2 and went to install them I noticed they seemed too small. I ordered a set from NPD and attempted to put them on, too small.  Called them up and went over it with them.  Together we thought they were just miss packaged.  They comp’ed them and sent me another set.  Check it out:

Those were (of course) the same as the last set.  By chance I thought let me order a set from SummitRacing.  Those too were too small.

Here a quick video:

 


 

Clearly there’s been a swap of some kind. Now if I had taken the measurements and done so thoroughly, I could have saved some frustration.  Taking the shoes back and forth the local parts stores (more then one and more then one time) I found little help.   I will say that CarQuest – which is way across town from my place, were the best at helping me track down the shoe size.   The guys on 3 Facebook groups all were helpful…but I made a mistake there.  I had mocked up the drums you see in the video just to show them the size difference.  Well that led to a lot of post freaking out about the lack of auto adjuster parts – which aren’t necessary, if you don’t mind making the adjustments yourself, when you feel the braking a bit off – NOT RECOMMEND however for general/common drivers and the spring wouldn’t fit…because the shoe were too small to hold them in place I popped any spring that I could get on easily.  As always you’ve a few condescending “experts” that missed the point of the pics/videos but that’s gonna happen on the web.

So the hunt began.  I’ll fill you in on that in the next post and show you the measurements I “SHOULD” have taken.

Thanks for checking in!!

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof – New Rear Shocks and Spiders get an Eviction Notice.

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Welcome back to Average Guys Car Restoration.

Rear shocks required a bit of  “extra” work to install and sadly a few of natures creatures, need to find a new home.  Take a look:

Now I doubt that I’ve impressed upon the spiders to permanently relocate, perhaps with a it of training I can get them to at least clean up the undercarriage a bit.

#ProjectSports Roof now has all new shocks.   There is still so much to do…coming up next brakes and upholstery.

Thanks for stopping by!!

 

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof – Vapor Lock – New Carb – CLOSURE

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I’ve finally put the fuel issues to bed with fuel line insulated, crushed line repaired, fuel pump upgraded and now a new carb.  Through the process I’ve eliminated vapor lock – video proof showed the issue was with the carb float.  Final analysis is that the float was cracked, filled with fuel and failed to control the level of fuel in the bowl.

Now the new carb is 1406 Edelbrock which is a downgrade from 800 CFM to 600 CFM (1413 Edelbrock).   The #ProjectSportsRoof is running well.  However, I don’t think I’ll leave it with the the 600.    The 800 was in bad shape.  Maybe only 60 miles on it, but it sat for too long, with bad fuel and just cleaning it up didn’t work.   Some say the 800 is too much for the 351C but I noticed a difference between the two carb so the 800 it going back for a professional rebuild and it will end up back on the SportsRoof. 

Here is the removal of the 800 and the installation of the 600.

 


There is still a lot coming up on Average Guys Car Restoration. Bill had some hinge work on #ProjectBeepBeep and there a lot more on #ProjectSportsRoof.

Thanks for checking.

Tim

 

#ProjectSportsRoof On Camera Update 06-04-20

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Here is a quick update on my 73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof, #SR73):

 


 

Lots coming up so check back!

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof Fuel Issue – Carb Float Adjustment

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Well we’ve landed here temporarily with the vapor lock – not series of posts.   Clearly we aren’t having a vapor lock issue and had I set up a camera much earlier I would have seen the issue pretty quickly.  

With fuel spewing out of the carb, which isn’t ideal, we can narrow it down to a carb issue, not a fuel line getting to hot and not a fuel pump issue (but I’m glad I upgraded from the old one).

Here is the video of the float adjustment:

 


 

So my options at this point is to have carb rebuild or down size to 600CFM Edelbrock.

What would you do?   Drop a not and let me know.

Thanks for checking in #ProjectSportsRoof.

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof Vapor Lock or Not – NOT!!

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Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof, my RARE (snicker) 1973 SportsRoof Mustang (#SR73).

I’m catching up on the fuel issue with my 351 Cleveland.

I didn’t notice but in the last posting at the very end of the video when I’m attempting to start the car there is an issue with the carb.  I totally didn’t catch it at the time nor did I see it in the video. 

I really struggled with trying get a video on the removal and installation of the new Speedmaster Fuel pump.  One of the hazards of working on a ‘semi-cool’ car like my Mustang – outside in the driveway, is that neighbors love to peek in on the status and of course chat.  The installation had some many interruptions that the video was choppy and salvageable.  I had some misgivings about the Speedmaster pump, more exactly the lack of support – no instructions for adjusting the configuration(which required disassembly to accommodate different applications and no specs on the fittings required).  I did managed to get  few tips and the after math.  Here’s what it looked like:

 

 


So clearly it was not the fuel pump nor was it vapor lock but in fact it was the floats. I tackle the those in next post!

 

Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73).

Tim

 

 

 

#ProjectSportsRoof – Shock Tower Braces Part I

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So much work going on with my ’73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof, #SR73), new carb, brakes, shocks it would seem that there should be time for the smaller projects.  But currently due to the pandemic supplies locally are focused on newer cars and the things that don’t sell quickly aren’t being stocked at the local auto parts stores.  Most major parts have to be ordered and shipping times are Sooooooooooooooo    Slooooooow, that there is time for these side project.

What better way to spend that time then to get the Mustangs shock tower braces ready for installation.  Waiting until all or most of the engine work is done before actually installing them, because I don’t want work around them or keeping removing them to gain access to upper parts  to the engine.  But they need painting.  I opted not to use the chrome plated option and go with steel and paint them myself.

Why bother adding Shock Tower Braces?  Dude….for unibody chassis, like the early Mustang had (only sub-frames) they provide extra stiffness between the shocks.  Helps keeps things from twisting when doing some “spirited” driving or on the track.

Here is the prep of the braces for my Mustang:

 


Part II will be coming soon and you’ll show awful the first shots of paint turned out.

Also brakes and and upholstery coming for the big Stang.

Thanks for checking in.

Tim

 

1973 Mustang SportsRoof 63D vs. Mach I 63R Body Style

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As I shelter in place during the 2020 CoVid19 historic event (why didn’t they call  it CovVid2020?  that would have been cool…actually I really don’t care. m) I pondered many things.  One of the most important ponderings (not a word) was the difference in body styles of the 1973 Mustangs like #ProjectSportRoof (#SR73).

According the all the numbers and confirmed by my Marti Reports  (plug – the folks at Marti Auto Works are have access to soooo much Ford (and other brands) information.  I always get their full set of reports and invoices/window stickers/data plates etc for my cars.  That includes for my 1970 Mustang Coupe, my 2004 Ford SportTrac (pickup) and my 1973 SportsRoof – if you’ve never heard of them #1 Where you’ve been? and # 2 – Here ya go – https://www.martiauto.com.) #ProjectSportsRoof is a SportsRoof, not a Mach I.    It’s body code is a 63D.  As far as numbers goes that’s a good thing if you want/like unique.  With only just over 10k produced (10,820 to be exact)  my #SR73  is the lowest production body style for the last year of the Big Stangs. And we all know that – low production equals rare and rare equals more desire and more desire equals more value. (It doesn’t really – at least not always and not in this case…yet…check with me in about 100 years.)  Just to give you the rest of the data, Mach I’s (body style 63R) numbers are over 35k – the 2nd highest.  First highest is 2dr hard top (body style 65D) at 51,480, followed by Grande (body style 65F) at just over 25k, and by then the Convertible, body style 76D at 11,953. 

The fact that there are different designations for the body styles (back to my pondering) what is the difference?  I’m looking for the answers for at least the my 63D vs. 63R.  Maybe even the  between Grande (65F) and the 2dr hardtop (65D). 

I think it would be “nice to know info”.  For example all the welds on the SportsRoof were done by blind, one armed welders, using a mirror. (that’s not true…I don’t think!)  I’d like to know that.   There’s one response suggesting that they have a “…unique body code due to the added standard features.”  Which is not specific enough.   My SportsRoof came with Mach 1 interior package and slotted aluminum wheels those could be add by checking a box when ordering. 

So I’ll keep send out quires and see if I can get anything more refined. 

But the fact that my body designation is unique is cool.  I have a habit of selecting unique cars.  My 1970 Mustang was one of only about 11k produced that year, last of the medium sized Stangs.  My 1984 Corvette was first year unique, for body style, engine, Z51 suspension and lowest drag coefficient windshield up to that point (yes…really). 

If you think you know or have a guess drop me a note and I’ll update this post, or write a new one with and update. 

Thanks for checking.  Drop me a note!! 

Tim

#ProjectSportsRoof   #SR73

#ProjectSportsRoof – 1973 SportsRoof #SR73