If it seemed to you like I was never going to get to the end of the floor pan part of #ProjectSportsRoof, you weren’t alone, it seemed that way to me as well. With power plant problems (Knock..Knock…Who’s There? It’s the bottom end of your 351 Cleveland!!!), digit maiming (Injury Time Out – 1973 Mustang SportsRoof) and life occurring in between the actually completion of the install and getting to the blogging/sharing part of this project. So here is the final two posts.
After my neighbor Dan Thomas skillfully tacked the panels in place it was time to seal the seams and give the passenger cabin floor a coating.
Here is what I used to carry out the next to last task.
The Eastwood seam sealing putty was warmed up by rolling it around in the palm of my hand and then wedged into the seams like those indicted in this pic:
If you recall we just tack welded the panel so there were a number of seams that need some putty.
I roughly sanded and vacuumed the rest of the floor and then used the truck bed liner from a rattle can and made several pass over the entire floor.
Take a look:
This was just the first coat.
This leaves the application of the heat and sound barrier and replacing the carpet to finish up the this part of the project.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. Floor pan are ready to be welded into place on the 1973 Mustang Sportsroof.
Now I’m not a welder and there was no way I was going to experiment on the Mustang. So I enlisted the assistance of my neighbor Dan Thomas. Dan is quite the artist with his welding and metal work and although this build didn’t require much fancy design work…just quality welds and Dan delivered.
The goal here is to tack the fitted metal patch panels in place. The welds need to be strong and in the proper places. Now you might say, “Hey did you say that the Mustang is a unit-body and that the floor needed to be strong since that’s what holds the car together – mostly?” Yes that is true, however this Mustang will have frame connectors added to make this reasonable.
Just a note about the welding, you have to use gas with the mig…the metal for the patch panels are not that thick and the portions of the floor you are welding it to are old…so you need the added gas.
To start with I needed to strip the tack locations down to bare metal. You can see some of that in this image.
Here a little video clip of the work. Note: Don’t adjust your device’s volume….there is no sound on the first part of the video…well there was, but it was mostly me chewing gum…not very cool to listen too.
Here is some of Dan’s most excellent work.
Thanks Dan!!!
Thanks for following along with the project. Drop me any questions, comments and/or your thoughts!!!! Coming up next is the coating of the floor and the heat and sound barrier.
Well win some and you lose some. If you’ve seen my other posts related the replacement of the points and condenser for the 351C you’ll notice that I gave conversion high marks. This was all based on the years of use I got out of the conversion I did on …
Welcome back to the final few posts of the floor pan replacement for #ProjectSportsRoof.
Let’s get right down to it.
I realized that I didn’t catch much of the work on the floor plan under the right rear seat. That was really a lot of work. They don’t make a panel for that on the 1973 Mustang SportsRoof. So I had to use a foot well panel and “customize” it to fit. See here:
This shot is that pre-welding and it shows the hole above the muffler, under the seat. (Sorry for the short clip)
This image shows the customized foot well floor panel:
A lot of work went into forming that panel.
Yes it was tough to make it, there were a lot of cuts. (The tub there is Irish Spring soap – it keeps pack rats out of the Mustang while it’s parked!)
If you recall the left side of the car wasn’t bad at all and I replaced just the foot well panel. It cut the same as the right side and here it is in place. Here’s a little recap of the work done.
Next up is the welding, coating and heat/sound barrier.
Hey, welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang). We are working through the rusted floor pans and I’m about to make the cut for removing rust from …
I haven’t done a Parking Lot Spotlight in a while and this is a great car to pick the series back up with. Check this one out!!!!!
Wheels look great!!!!
Love the chrome work and the wrap around backup lights. That two tone paint is pretty good looking too!!!
I find these to be such a great looking vehicles and dare I say in some cases even better than some of their Mustang cousins. The hidden headlights and the full (nearly full) length tail lights make these so distinct and much more difficult to restore then the Mustang – as far as getting NOS parts.
I’m not alone in thinking that the new for 1967 Cougar was unique and that first year through 1970 were the best years. After that they became cross-bred with a Marauder and then by the mid 70’s virtually indistinguishable from the squared off T-bird not to mention it’s overtly plushiness.
In 1969 you could get the Cougar with a 302, 351W in either a V2 or V4 configuration or Boss 302. Previous years a 289 was available and in early 70’s the 351C, 351 CJ, and 351 Boss were options. Those are the best engine Ford had to offer at the time!!! (May be ever!!)
For 1969 you could get the Cougar in the Coupe, Convertible with a standard trim, Eliminator or XR-7 packages. Production numbers totaled just over 100k units broken down like this:
I enjoy seeing readers’ cars. Here is a 1982 Mercury Cougar Stationwagon…..YES!!! That’s what I said…”They did what????” Submitted by Steve Sears. There were 19,254 Cougar wagons built, in GS and Villager trim, in 1982. The only other year there were Cougar wagons was 1977 when 9,700+ built. I’d be willing to bet that …
It’s pretty cool to happen upon a car show in the course of running weekend errands. I normally have a calendar event for the major shows and/or the ones I plan on attending. But now and then I see one in passing, and of course I am compelled to stop and usually do. Sometimes there are some real gems. By gens I mean cars you don’t see at the average car show as they may not be in top condition or even restored at all (that doesn’t stop me) and the owners would enter them.
You don’t need shiny paint to go to a car show. Here’s #ProjectSportsRoof at its first car show.
A couple of weeks ago I picked up my son at his place and we took care of some business. I always have my ‘old car’ radar on and it went off as we passed a little church. We had finished all of our tasks so I stopped. There may have been 15 cars in the parking lot with hoods up and doors open. True to form there were a few cars that one rarely sees at a car show.
This awesome Fox-body Mustang Vert was in the line-up:
Fox-Body Vert w/ Whale Tail!
Oh MAN!! Look at that plumbing!!!!
There was this 1964 Chrysler 300 K. You don’t see many of these at a show. Love that it’s a 2 door.
’64 Chrysler 300 K
Cool Steering Wheel!!
Here is a rare sight!!! Mercury Comet Caliente VERT!!!!
This Comet is in O.K.shape
This cars is nicely preserved and a little body work has been done, but still very nice car.
But this next car was my favorite as unlikely as that may seem, I’d buy this car and I’d show it big time!!! Check out this 1974 Mustang II:
I think it’s a sharp little car!!!
Nice wheels!!!!
Yeah..that’s a V8 – 302!!
Still lots of room under that hood.
Interior is so awesome.
You can tell that this car was stripped and restored. It was painted with, even the interior, with a white rhino lining/satin like paint. It is just amazing and I’m was impressed.
Other duties happen outside of working on #ProjectSportsRoof…like yard work!!!!! While attempting to tame the foliage in the backyard on Sunday, my electric hedge clippers became self-aware and in true Terminator fashion, exacted revenge on two fingers on my left hand – index and middle. (Yes I have pictures and no I won’t post them here.) Pretty sure I taught the neighborhood new curse words.
Of course this necessitated a trip to the ER, much to my dismay and my wife’s. It took the doctor a fair amount of time sew them up – 31 stitches and to pass the time the doc and I discussed cars – specifically his new Tesla. So over all it was a nice break from the average weekend routine and I scored some pain meds to boot!! (HA,HA).
I’ll be out of commission for the next couple of weeks so maybe I can catch up on some blogging. Might be a bit optimistic, considering how long it has taken to just type this post!!!
Note to self: Don’t throw out the next door hanger for a landscape service.
I am slurring my typing, meds are kicking in …..SO…thanks for reading.
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and
fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!! Final Fit for foot-well …
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and
fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!! Final Fit for foot-well …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I run my car projects much like I run my IT projects. You always have to know where to start and know the end game. As with any project that isn’t being built from scratch, in other word, you have to work with what you’ve got, …
After spending $$$ to get my 2v heads done right and after driving my 73 Stang for about 50 miles, the Cleveland has developed a knock in the bottom half of the engine.
It’s not uncommon when restoring cars that an undiscovered issue pops up and changes the entire project plan. But the dilemma I have now has multiple facets.
First there’s what to do about the engine. Rebuild it if possible? Replace with a short block, reusing the 2v heads? Buy a crate engine? Or set it on fire in the driveway? Each one of these options have it’s own inherent hurdles and impacts the timeline differently.
Second there’s issue with the old conundrum “Well as long as….I might as well do the ….” In this case it read like this… “As long as the engine out, I should, really, redo the engine bay.” That’s has is own timeline with the cleaning and sanding and priming and painting and replacing clips/fastener….etc.
So let’s discuss the engine.
There are a few “known knowns” (thank you Donald Rumsfeld!!!):
The current 351C engine isn’t original to the car – in fact the car was born with 302. Why is that important? I don’t have to worry about the matching numbers thing, that ship sailed sometime ago. Basically anything goes.
Not rebuilding/replacing is not an option.
Budget. Although there is no set dollar amount, there is restraint how much can be spend in a given time.
Then there are the “known unknowns”
Is it the cam?
Is it just the bearings?
Are the cylinder walls serviceable?
What do I want this engine to be?
Options: (just a few)
Option 1: A friend of mine suggested a crate engine – just order one from Summitt Racing or Jegs. Make all the power I want.
Ford Racing 363 C.I.D. 500 HP Boss Crate Engines – $8439.97
– Discussion: $$$ (Could stop right there with this one.) Getting a 400+ HP turn-key crate would be just awesome. In my option that is what these Mustangs were meant to be. (ching-ching) Getting tons of power to the rear wheels with the current automatic C6 transmission will required a possible rebuild and an upgraded torque converter. (ching-ching again). But having a Cleveland in the engine bay is way cool!! I grew up in GM family… there weren’t a lot of discussion about Ford product and anytime I heard “Ford talk” a 351 Cleveland engine was mentioned. I do like the look of it under the hood the are wider than the Windsor family of motors. Keeping it a 351C V2 will be less expensive and you can make good power from it if you do it right.
– Conclusion for Option 1: Not gonna happen!!
Option 2: Find a good used 351C and install that
– Discussion: This is a good possibility. That’s already happened to #ProjectSportsRoof. The 302 was replaced with a 351 (whether it was a Windsor or Cleveland is not known) as this was the engine the previous owner hauled it out of a field with. As it turned out that engine was seized and the current engine was found and installed (along with the used C6 trans). It may be tough to find one. If and when you do the mileage shouldn’t be a known unknown and you need to determine the condition as best you can by listening to it run. If it is just sitting on the shelf, would you perform a “trust-fall” with the seller? Bottom line is a used engine “is like a box of chocolates”…you might end right back up where you are now. Frankly this would be my last option.
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!!
Final Fit for foot-well.
This video is pretty comprehensive so I’m just going to just let it roll.
A couple of things worth noting. The “flap” what was clearly not going to work and leaving the sheet metal running up the side of the transmission/drive shaft tunnel was going to give too much flex in that panel, as the welds would be pretty high. It’s important to have that solid because as most must guys and gals know the Mustang of this vintage only have sub-frames which lease the floor as the most important body stabilization part of the car. I will eventually put sub-frame connectors under this beast.
In case you are wondering what that electrical wiring is to the right of foot-well that is for the seat belt switch which when pressure is applied to the seat bottom there must be a connection completed by the seat-belt male end and female end to turn off the “Seat Belt” light and or buzzer.
I have a lot more coming up on the floor pans so stay tuned!!!!
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. We beginning the actual work on the vacuum system on the projects 351C starting with the valve assembly distributor ( the …
I know, I’m getting slow at getting these posted for the 1973 Mustang, but here is the next part. I’m beginning the cuts on the repop floor panels.
Like I mention in the video, I”m doing this all in my driveway and garage – it can be done!!!! Unlike my 1970 Mustang (which started out in better shape) which most of the work on the body was complete, thanks in part to a careless young driver plowing into the back it at a stop light, in a body shop. While it was there I had the entire car painted.
I’m using a dremel to make the necessary cuts and the Work-Mate table allows a lot of angles to clamp down the sheet metal while I am cutting it. The painter’s blue tape works great as marking off the cuts and you don’t have to be ‘too’ precise, but you have to be close!!!
Here you can see the first cut. Now eventually I realized that I didn’t really need the ‘flap’ and I cut it off.
The ‘humps’ are actually where the seats bolt down and you have to keep clear of those with your sheet metal and welds.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. ….. You can see my 2007 C6 and the 1973 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof) and my son’s 1991 Chrysler Le Baron vert and …
Feb 6, 2016 … #ProjectSportsRoof Floor Pan Rust Removal Video 2 – Duration: 2:07. Tim Sweet No views. New. 2:07. 1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 for sale with …
I haven’t done a Engine Mini-Series in sometime, I find readers like the Engine Line Up posts a lot, so I’ve stuck with that. They are quick and fun pieces to research and write.
SEE A NOTED DEVIATION IN THE COMMENTS BELOW.
I received a request from a reader (motown_missile) from the /r/classiccar subdirectory over on Reddit, who read my latest Engine Line UP post, for something on Ford small block V8’s specifically the 221, 260 and 289 engines. So I thought yeah that’s a great idea!!! But it didn’t really fit how I structure the Engine Line Up posts and then I recalled doing these mini-series and that fits the request. Thanks motown_missile!!!!
Now the Ford small block V8 label (also called the “90 Degree V8s”) covers a few rare engines (limited production/limited use), one of the most iconic and some real workhorses. The engines that fall under this designation are 221, 255, 260, 289 and yes the 302 and even the 351 Windsor (not the Cleveland). I’ll cover each one in separate posts.
The Ford small blocks were designed the end of the 1950’s put in to production cars in 1962 the first and smallest (20 inches across and only 475 lbs) and it displaced 221 cubic inches and so designated as the 221.
The 221, in 1962, had a compression ratio of 8.7:1 with a bore and stroke respectively of 3.50 x 2.87. It sported two-bolt main-bearing, cast nodular crankshaft (only 37 lbs), cast aluminum pistons, hydraulic camshaft and individually mounted iron rockers. The cylinder heads were wedge-shaped and the intake valves were 1.59 in. and the exhaust valves were 1.39 This was all topped off with a cast iron two barrel intake manifold and it produced about 143 hp @ 4,500 rmp and 217 foot lbs of torque @ 2200 rpm. For 1963 it remained about the same with a slight increase in the bore and stroke (3.75×3.30 inches) producing a compression ratio of 8.8:1 and 145 hp. Both years were topped with Holley carbs.
The 221 is one of the rarest small block. It saw only 2 years of production use (1962 and 1963) and you could find it in the Ford Fairlanes and Mercury Meteor. If you want to know if your 62-63 Fairlane or Mete0r originally had a 221 check the VIN for the code L ( C – 1962 export or 3 for 1963 export).
Nicely painted 221 V8
1962 Mercury Meteor 33
1963 Ford Fairlane
Next up will be the 255.
Thanks for reading and if you have any input or pic of your own 221, drop me a note a AGCarRestoration@cox.net. Comments always welcome!!!
