I’ve finally put the fuel issues to bed with fuel line insulated, crushed line repaired, fuel pump upgraded and now a new carb. Through the process I’ve eliminated vapor lock – video proof showed the issue was with the carb float. Final analysis is that the float was cracked, filled with fuel and failed to control the level of fuel in the bowl.
Now the new carb is 1406 Edelbrock which is a downgrade from 800 CFM to 600 CFM (1413 Edelbrock). The #ProjectSportsRoof is running well. However, I don’t think I’ll leave it with the the 600. The 800 was in bad shape. Maybe only 60 miles on it, but it sat for too long, with bad fuel and just cleaning it up didn’t work. Some say the 800 is too much for the 351C but I noticed a difference between the two carb so the 800 it going back for a professional rebuild and it will end up back on the SportsRoof.
Here is the removal of the 800 and the installation of the 600.
There is still a lot coming up on Average Guys Car Restoration. Bill had some hinge work on #ProjectBeepBeep and there a lot more on #ProjectSportsRoof.
Well we’ve landed here temporarily with the vapor lock – not series of posts. Clearly we aren’t having a vapor lock issue and had I set up a camera much earlier I would have seen the issue pretty quickly.
With fuel spewing out of the carb, which isn’t ideal, we can narrow it down to a carb issue, not a fuel line getting to hot and not a fuel pump issue (but I’m glad I upgraded from the old one).
Here is the video of the float adjustment:
So my options at this point is to have carb rebuild or down size to 600CFM Edelbrock.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof, my RARE (snicker) 1973 SportsRoof Mustang (#SR73).
I’m catching up on the fuel issue with my 351 Cleveland.
I didn’t notice but in the last posting at the very end of the video when I’m attempting to start the car there is an issue with the carb. I totally didn’t catch it at the time nor did I see it in the video.
I really struggled with trying get a video on the removal and installation of the new Speedmaster Fuel pump. One of the hazards of working on a ‘semi-cool’ car like my Mustang – outside in the driveway, is that neighbors love to peek in on the status and of course chat. The installation had some many interruptions that the video was choppy and salvageable. I had some misgivings about the Speedmaster pump, more exactly the lack of support – no instructions for adjusting the configuration(which required disassembly to accommodate different applications and no specs on the fittings required). I did managed to get few tips and the after math. Here’s what it looked like:
So clearly it was not the fuel pump nor was it vapor lock but in fact it was the floats. I tackle the those in next post!
Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73).
Bill finished up the restoration and installation of his ’68 RoadRunner (#ProjectBeepBeep).
If you haven’t watched this group of videos, you should! When you do grab a notepad because there are tip in each one that make the restoration, easier, quicker and last longer.
Thanks for checking back!!
Great job Bill!
More coming up with #ProjectBeepBeep and more on my ’73 Mustang SportsRoof #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73).
As I sorted out the fuel issues with my ’73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof) (#SR73) I was asked about the fuel system and what I used for reference.
I have all the manuals and specs with diagrams but the best I’ve found is from a a sales catalog. National Parts Depot has it laid out and labeled. You’ll have to excuse their SKU numbers but it’s a great resource.
Check it out: – OH I will have an update on the fuel issue coming up next, along with shocks and some other work being done on #SR73.
So much work going on with my ’73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof, #SR73), new carb, brakes, shocks it would seem that there should be time for the smaller projects. But currently due to the pandemic supplies locally are focused on newer cars and the things that don’t sell quickly aren’t being stocked at the local auto parts stores. Most major parts have to be ordered and shipping times are Sooooooooooooooo Slooooooow, that there is time for these side project.
What better way to spend that time then to get the Mustangs shock tower braces ready for installation. Waiting until all or most of the engine work is done before actually installing them, because I don’t want work around them or keeping removing them to gain access to upper parts to the engine. But they need painting. I opted not to use the chrome plated option and go with steel and paint them myself.
Why bother adding Shock Tower Braces? Dude….for unibody chassis, like the early Mustang had (only sub-frames) they provide extra stiffness between the shocks. Helps keeps things from twisting when doing some “spirited” driving or on the track.
Here is the prep of the braces for my Mustang:
Part II will be coming soon and you’ll show awful the first shots of paint turned out.
Also brakes and and upholstery coming for the big Stang.
As I shelter in place during the 2020 CoVid19 historic event (why didn’t they call it CovVid2020? that would have been cool…actually I really don’t care. m) I pondered many things. One of the most important ponderings (not a word) was the difference in body styles of the 1973 Mustangs like #ProjectSportRoof (#SR73).
According the all the numbers and confirmed by my Marti Reports (plug – the folks at Marti Auto Works are have access to soooo much Ford (and other brands) information. I always get their full set of reports and invoices/window stickers/data plates etc for my cars. That includes for my 1970 Mustang Coupe, my 2004 Ford SportTrac (pickup) and my 1973 SportsRoof – if you’ve never heard of them #1 Where you’ve been? and # 2 – Here ya go – https://www.martiauto.com.) #ProjectSportsRoof is a SportsRoof, not a Mach I. It’s body code is a 63D. As far as numbers goes that’s a good thing if you want/like unique. With only just over 10k produced (10,820 to be exact) my #SR73 is the lowest production body style for the last year of the Big Stangs. And we all know that – low production equals rare and rare equals more desire and more desire equals more value. (It doesn’t really – at least not always and not in this case…yet…check with me in about 100 years.) Just to give you the rest of the data, Mach I’s (body style 63R) numbers are over 35k – the 2nd highest. First highest is 2dr hard top (body style 65D) at 51,480, followed by Grande (body style 65F) at just over 25k, and by then the Convertible, body style 76D at 11,953.
The fact that there are different designations for the body styles (back to my pondering) what is the difference? I’m looking for the answers for at least the my 63D vs. 63R. Maybe even the between Grande (65F) and the 2dr hardtop (65D).
I think it would be “nice to know info”. For example all the welds on the SportsRoof were done by blind, one armed welders, using a mirror. (that’s not true…I don’t think!) I’d like to know that. There’s one response suggesting that they have a “…unique body code due to the added standard features.” Which is not specific enough. My SportsRoof came with Mach 1 interior package and slotted aluminum wheels those could be add by checking a box when ordering.
So I’ll keep send out quires and see if I can get anything more refined.
But the fact that my body designation is unique is cool. I have a habit of selecting unique cars. My 1970 Mustang was one of only about 11k produced that year, last of the medium sized Stangs. My 1984 Corvette was first year unique, for body style, engine, Z51 suspension and lowest drag coefficient windshield up to that point (yes…really).
If you think you know or have a guess drop me a note and I’ll update this post, or write a new one with and update.
