Unfortunately I have to start the year out with a legal notice. It seems that my writings are so inspiring(…ok…stop laughing!!!) that a few sites have decided that they would use them on their sites in total, placing ads in the middle for their profit and not requesting permission.
I enjoy writing my blog and I do it to share experiences and social interaction.
If you like it, great!!
If you’d like to share links, I’m all for it
If you want to post entire articles ask permission and I’ll send you my list of requirements for accomplishing this.
If you want to use my articles and place and in the articles, we need to talk first.
O.K., I don’t do this too often on this blog but every now and then I have to point out something I think is just ridiculous.
I do a lot of reading. A disproportional amount of that reading is car magazines. (To my son: Yes I will get to the two Stephen King novels you bought me…promise!!) In fact, I get so many car magazines that it’s difficult to keep up (sounds like a New Year’s resolution is in order). They stack up and my wife’s patience goes the opposite direction with my messy side of our shared office and piles here and there of unread periodicals. (O.K. so that New Year’s resolution may turn in to a ‘CLEAN IT UP’ New Year’s directive, in which case, failure to comply would not be an option.)
In the course of all this reading I’ve become familiar with a lot of writers and their styles (some I communicate with via email or social network). You also gain a general over all tone of their respective magazines. With the exception of my favorite writers at the mega car publication company (SHOUT OUT TO) Hemmings (I refer to them as “They Who Do No Wrong”) who seem to be pretty down to earth and hug the middle line pretty well, it’s clear that some car magazines want to project a blue-collar image and others a blue blood image. Every now and then, the blue-collar want-to-be’s do grab a seat on the snob express and leave us average guys going.”..W..T..H(family blog)!?!?!?!…..REALLY!?!?!?!”
My inner lawyer cautions me to not use names of magazines and writers, of course suing me would pretty uneventful, you might end up with a 70 Mustang coupe and a 302 and that’s about it. My inner writer says “If you ever want to move your writing anywhere other than on this blog, do not insult the established press.” My inner wise-ass (still family safe, I believe) wants to poke fun by name at both (magazine and writer). Normally my inner wise-ass wins.
So I am reading the latest Car Craft, Jan 2011 (yeah, it some how ended up on top of the pile) which I considered a blue-collar magazine, lots of get dirty articles and useful techie stuff and not just shiny pages, shiny paint and expensive wheel. Well apparently I missed the fact that they were moving to a new location (probably in a back issue I haven’t gotten to yet..if I can find my Car Craft pile again”). All I can say is “WOW” and “the Auto Magazine business must be paying good”, because their new garage is to die for!!! Really, how did they ever survive without an ocean front garage in El Segundo, Ca. where, while you are on your lunch break, you can catch a bite to eat, a Pepsi and a wave ???!!!!! With a few more earthquakes my Arizona home might one day be ocean front property.
O.K., fine, so a quick Google shows the Car Craft garage address isn’t actually on the beach and really location isn’t my point. What is, is the article that Mr. Douglas Glad wrote in the “Front Man” section – “Man Cave”. Specifically a couple of items, he believes are necessary in a garage. He states “…every car guy’s garage needs the basics to be useful and a good place to get away from school, diapers,….” Hey, I get that, I was a stay at home Dad for a while and sure, you must have the tools to get the job done. I was really interested to read what he thinks we average car guys (I just tossed in the “average”) need in our garages. But at the next paragraph’s bold heading, I stopped and said “What?” I then scanned the other six paragraphs’ headings and was dismayed, but I read on hoping I could salvage something from the piece.
First critical piece of functional equipment was a….MIG welder? Nope. How about a parts cleaning machine? Nope. How about a flat screen T.V.? Yes. But according to the article, it doesn’t have to be huge. So what’s next? I’ll just list them:
1. A movie collection of guy movies – I have an AM FM radio and CD player (old), most of the stations are static interrupt by parts of a song or commercial and the player skips. I’m normally so wrapped up in what I’m doing it just becomes white noise anyway.
2. A wall collage – If there is that much space on my garage wall, I’ve got some nails and stuff to hang from them and a Hemmings’ Muscle Machine calendar.
3. An art school grad’s, air brushed wall art – Same As Above
4. Electrical – 220 – Now I can get behind that. Right on!
5. Trosley Car Portrait – First WHAT!?!? Then…Same as 2 and 3.
So I’m taken back. My image of a greased smeared blue uniform shirt wearing, lay a wrench on it, magazine, has been crushed. Has Car Craft gone soft? Do they out source the work and just drive the finished project in for photo ops?
Am I shocked and dismayed or just jealous? The latter!!!!
I dedicate this to a follow car guy who I purchases some used parts from a while back. Bill is restoring his dream car in a 3 sided building in the mid west, where in the winter, he normally has to shovel snow out of the way to work on it. You rock.. Bill!!!
As part of the mods and upgrades for my 70 Mustang, I plan on replacing all the carpet. Before I do that however, I’m going to lay down some heat and sound proofing (but that is another post).
As I start project planning, I’m looking around for parts and materials, as well as any helpful hints. (If you have any at any time, drop me a comment.) Although certain portions of the restro-mod will have to be done together, like carb and intake or heads and cam (yes I’m all four will be done at the same time), many can be accomplished separately, like adding the heat/sound proofing and the carpeting, before upholstery of the seats. In the Mustang getting the seats out are easy enough (keep in mind my goal is to not have the car tied up too long between stages) so replacing the seats after the carpet installation, isn’t a problem.
As a reminder, the mods will be done in adherence to budget, time and events. So there maybe a need to move between different phases to accommodate either 3 of those factors.
O.K., so where was I, oh yeah..carpet shopping.
As I looking on-line for the best place for ordering carpeting, began to notice a lot of choices. I start thinking “I’m going to have call up on deck my personal award-winning interior designer (that would be my wife – by profession…no not wife by profession although I’m sure thinks it’s her 3rd career, but Interior Designer by profession). Here is a little bit of what I found:
Plush Cut Pile
Ultra-Plush Cut Pile
Neon Cut Pile
100% Nylon Loop
I’m thinking, “holy cow!!!…What the heck is this?!! Ultra-Plush Cut Pile? I’m not building a ’60 Love Van!!! Oh it gets better..yeah.. you guessed it samples!!!!!
Misty Gray
BuckSkin
My favorite - Cinnabar
Oh..come on!!! Cinnabar!!!! Really!!?? Um..yup. Oh and there were many more, like Medium Gray and Silver Mist and Nutmeg and Fire Thorn!!!! I’m not kidding.
So I’m looking round to make sure know one’s looking over my shoulder (as I’m doing this over my lunch at work..on my personal smart phone…just in case “they” are reading!!!) All the time I thinking…”It’s black..all I know is that it’s black!”
Who knew that there was that much to look at? Not this Average Guy.
Luckily I found this snippet on one site and it all became clear:
Plush Cut Pile
Our nylon cut pile is constructed from 100% first quality yarn and is similar to what is found in most cars since 1974. It is tufted on a 1/8 gauge machine with 14 ounces of yarn per square yard. It is dyed using the finest dyes available and tested for ozone humidity fading & light fastness.
Ultra-Plush Cut Pile
This carpet is a super plush upgrade to our standard Cut Pile. A 100% nylon cut pile manufactured with over 40% more nylon fiber than our standard cut pile. It is dyed using the finest dyes available and tested for ozone humidity fading & light fastness.
Ok..still not sure here!!!
Neon Cut Pile
Our Neon Cut Pile colors are a great look if you want to make a statement! Although these are not stock colors, they would be appropriate for all applications. There is an additional 15% charge for all applications made with Neon Cut Pile.
What…not stock colors!!!??!!! What? Are you sure that is color
wasn’t stock? It’s Pink!!!!
And the clouds parted and it all became clear. The very last one was this:
100% Nylon Loop
A 100% nylon loop. This material is appropriate for pre-1975 applications only, and was the original type construction used in 1969-1973 Mustangs.
If you’ve read my blog or found me on Facebook or MySpace or various forums you know that I recently picked up a 07 Corvette, which I love.
One of the things I notices was that the tire valve stems and a little “N2” them. This was done to suggest that Nitrogen at one time filled the BFGs.
Valve Stem Caps
I wondered if any one (Average Guys) really put Nitrogen in their tires and really how much difference could it make. When I asked a few guys at my vette club Arizona Corvette Enthusiast (ACE), we had lot of “Winter Air and Summer Air” discussions. It stems from an old joke about a service attendant’s answer when asked by a customer why their was an extra charge on his bill when he had is tires rotated. The attendant stated is was for filling them with winter air.
Of course there’s no such thing, Nitrogen is used in tires, but is there really any benefits?
So what does GM say about the use of Nitrogen in tires?
From GM’s document #05-03-10-020C: Use of nitrogen Gas in Tires – (Apr 27, 2010)
GM’s Position on the Use of nitrogen Gas in Tires General Motors does not oppose the use of purified nitrogen as an inflation gas for tires. We expect the theoretical benefits to be reduced in practical use due to the lack of an existing infrastructure to continuously facilitate inflating tires with nearly pure nitrogen. Even occasional inflation with compressed atmospheric air will negate many of the theoretical benefits. Given those theoretical benefits, practical limitations, and the robust design of GM original equipment TPC tires, the realized benefits to our customer of inflating their tires with purified nitrogen are expected to be minimal.
The Promise of Nitrogen: Under Controlled Conditions Recently, nitrogen gas (for use in inflating tires) has become available to the general consumer through some retailers. The use of nitrogen gas to inflate tires is a technology used in automobile racing. The following benefits under controlled conditions are attributed to nitrogen gas and its unique properties:
• A reduction in the expected loss of Tire Pressure over time.
• A reduction in the variance of Tire Pressures with temperature changes due to reduction of water vapor concentration.
• A reduction of long-term rubber degradation due to a decrease in oxygen concentrations.
Important: These are obtainable performance improvements when relatively pure nitrogen gas is used to inflate tires under controlled conditions.
The Promise of Nitrogen: Real World Use Nitrogen inflation can give some benefit by reducing gas migration (pressure loss) at the molecular level through the tire structure. NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) has stated that the inflation pressure loss of tires can be up to 5% a month. nitrogen molecules are larger than oxygen molecules and, therefore, are less prone to “seeping” through the tire casing. The real obtainable benefits of nitrogen vary, based on the physical construction and the materials used in the manufacturing of the tire being inflated.
Another potential benefit of nitrogen is the reduced oxidation of tire components. Research has demonstrated that oxygen consumed in the oxidation process of the tire primarily comes from the inflation media. Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that oxidation of tire components can be reduced if the tire is inflated with pure nitrogen. However, only very small amounts of oxygen are required to begin the normal oxidation process. Even slight contamination of the tire inflation gas with compressed atmospheric air during normal inflation pressure maintenance, may negate the benefits of using nitrogen.
GM Tire Quality, Technology and Focus of Importance Since 1972, General Motors has designed tires under the TPC (Tire Performance Criteria) specification system, which includes specific requirements that ensure robust tire performance under normal usage. General Motors works with tire suppliers to design and manufacture original equipment tires for GM vehicles. The GM TPC addresses required performance with respect to both inflation pressure retention, and endurance properties for original equipment tires. The inflation pressure retention requirements address availability of oxygen and oxidation concerns, while endurance requirements ensure the mechanical structure of the tire has sufficient strength. This combination has provided our customers with tires that maintain their structural integrity throughout their useful tread-life under normal operating conditions.
Regardless of the inflation media for tires (atmospheric air or nitrogen), inflation pressure maintenance of tires is critical for overall tire, and ultimately, vehicle performance. Maintaining the correct inflation pressure allows the tire to perform as intended by the vehicle manufacturer in many areas, including comfort, fuel economy, stopping distance, cornering, traction, tread wear, and noise. Since the load carrying capability of a tire is related to inflation pressure, proper inflation pressure maintenance is necessary for the tire to support the load imposed by the vehicle without excessive structural degradation.
Important: Regardless of the inflation media for tires (atmospheric air or nitrogen), inflation pressure maintenance of tires is critical for overall tire, and ultimately, vehicle performance.
There you have it. But the experiences of the Average Guys I’ve asked, detected no difference for daily driving or when we take our toys to the track.
When I began the restoration of my ’70 Mustang I knew that I wanted to replace the 250 straight six, with 175k miles on it, soon. I had several option, buy a new engine, buying rebuild or buying used. I chose to buy a re-manufactured long block and add my own components.
The option of buying a used engine and rebuilding myself wasn’t an option (average guy, average space and average tools) but I would have enjoyed it.
If you are going to purchase a used engine, dragging out of a junk can save you even more. But you’ve got to check it out before getting it home.
Here are a few tips that you can follow help prevent getting something home that the only real use it can server is to fill a corner the garage.
Now you aren’t going to be able to tear the engine down right there and look over all the parts but you could do the following checks.
1. If the engine still has the spark plugs, pull them a look them over. If they appear to have oil on them you might be looking at ring or value job being necessary (you might want to do that anyway). Likewise if they have water on them you may be looking at a head gasket problems or worse.
Fouled plugs
2. Most likely you are going to be able to pull the heads but you can remove the value covers. Look at for large mounts of sludge build up. That indicates other issues as well.
Sludge Build up
3. If you can drop the oil pan, check the contents for water or coolant contamination. You can also inspect the oil pump. Issues there indicate that there may be damage to pistons and crankshaft.
Oil Pan Gunk
Currently I’m looking for a used manual 4 speed for my ’70 Mustang. Now I don’t have any tips for that yet but I’ll let you know.
This was too good to just pass up and too much to just repeat here. That’s coming up next for my ’70.
So from http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/09/t5swap/index.php, here is some very good information on upgrading your Mustang’s (Ford’s) transmission.
Overdrive transmissions are a great thing. They enable you to significantly improve the gearing and acceleration of your car, while maintaining gas mileage and highway cruisability. Unfortunately overdrives, manual or automatic, weren’t offered in Ford vehicles until the late 70’s. But that doesn’t mean you have to be stuck with the non-overdrive C4’s. C6’s, and manual 4 speeds of the 60’s. Swapping in a late-model overdrive transmission, namely the T5 manual and the AOD automatic, is a straighforward swap for 289, 302, 351 equipped cars. In fact on most early Fords, the swap is so easy it makes you wonder if Ford was thinking ahead. In this article we’ll go over what it takes to swap in a T5 tranmisssion into an early Ford. In future articles we’re go over an AOD swap for early Fords, and also an AOD to T5 swap for late-model Mustangs.
Slight clearancing of the shifter opening in early may be required. We had to do it on our ’67 Mustang, but in a ’65 the T5 lined up perfectly.
Swapping into early Mustangs, Falcons, Mavericks, and Pintos is easy because the hole in the transmision tunnel for the shifter is in about the same spot on all the cars. The swap is also easy for Fox body cars such as the Granada.
For other Fords, namely the full-sized cars, the swap is a bit more difficult because the engine is placed farther forward in relation to the driver. Ford
used modified shifters and/or longer tailhousings to set the shifter back for the original transmissions in these cars. Unfortunately there is no such modification we know of for T5’s.
If your car is currently equipped with a non-overdrive manual transmission (Ford 3spd, 4spd, or Toploader) the swap is as simple as a clutch job, you can use your existing clutch and flywheel, but you’ll need a crossmember and possibly a slip yoke and driveshaft as mentioned below. For cars with automatics you’ll need to first install a clutch pedal and round up the clutch activation parts (either manual clutch linkage or a cable operated clutch.)
We’ve seen the T5 in several Falcons and Comets originally equipped with column shifters. The owner had to punch a hole in the transmission tunnel and fabricate a longer shifter and/or replace the bench seats with bucket seats. Most Ford cars sold with automatic transmissions have factory stamped holes in the firewall for the clutch pushrod or cable. Usually a hard tap from a mallet will knock the stamp out.
For Bronco and Ranger owners, jamesduff.com sells adapters to bolt the T5 to 2.9L and 4.0L engines.
Toploader and T5 dimensions
Transmission
A
B
C
D
F
Ford Toploader (small block)
6.375
13.25
25.375
n/a
5.5
Ford T5
6.9
14.5
24.7
15.4
5.5
Overal length (A+C)
Toploader: 31.75 in.
T5: 31.6 in.
Where to find a T5? The T5 transmission is a manual five-speed transmission manufactured for Ford, by Borg Warner (now Tremec.) The T5 was offered in Mustangs, Thunderbirds, Capris, and possibly other Ford vehicls from 1983 all the way up to 1996, but you have to be careful -there are different specifications for 4-cylinder, 6-cylinder, and V8 cars. What you want is a T5 from a V8 car, ideally a Mustang. The 1983-1989 V8 T5’s are rated at 265 lb.ft. of torque, while the 90-93 T5’s are rated good to 300lb.ft of torque (93 Mustang Cobra T5 is rated for 310 lb.ft.) The difference is in the internal components and also the gearing. See the chart below for gearing differences. The 1994-1995 T5’s are not desirable because the input shaft length and thus bellhousing depth were changed to accomodate the new SN95 Mustang body style. If you do come across one of these dirt cheap the input shaft can be replaced with one from an earlier T5, but it’d have to be a really good deal (read free) to go through the trouble. Finally, we should mention that the T5 is also called the “World Class T5”, but many people incorrectly believe the term World Class refers to a stronger type of T5. All Borg Warner T5’s are considered “World Class”, so don’t rely on that term to indicate the type of T5 you have. The best bet is to find the T5 attached to the car, or with reliable evidence of the car it came out of. If that fails, look for the stamped aluminum tag hanging of one of the tail shaft bolts and use the ID chart to identify the model. Copy the numbers down and call D&D or Hanlon and beg them to tell you what year it’s out of.
While it is best to shoot for the 90-93 T5 due to its increase torque capacity, you shouldn’t pass up a good 83-89 T5, espeically if you’re engine is not heavily modified. We’ve found that T5 strength and longevity is more a factor of its condition and mileage rather than it’s torque rating. A used, high mileage, Cobra T5 will probably shift poorly and give out much sooner than a earlier T5 that came out of grandma’s car. The T5 in Project 11.99 was bought from a wrecked 1990 Mustang 5.0 with 50,000 miles. We’ve had it in the car for nearly five years now, over 400 passes at the strip, and it shifts as crisp as it did on day one.
By the way, always take the bellhousing and block plate if they are available. The T5 swap can be done two ways, using a T5 bellhousing or using an early Ford manual bellhousing. It is much easier and cheaper to use the T5 bell, we’ll explain why below.
What to pay?
Used T5’s can be bought for as cheap as $100 out of a wrecking yard, however we rarely ever see Mustang 5.0’s in public wrecking yards, most of the cars go to specialty dismantelers. You’re better off searching the classifieds and online Ford bulletin boards for guys parting out their Mustang, or perhaps upgrading to stronger transmission wanting to sell the T5 cheap. A fair price for a used, but not abused, less than 80K T5, is between $300 and $500. Any more than that and you should consider buying a rebuilt/refurbished T5 for around $700 from places like D&D or Hanlon. If you want to be extra safe you can buy the T5 new. Both the above sources, as well as Ford Racing Parts and Summit Racing, sell brand new T5 “Z” spec transmissions. The Z spec. transmisison is rated for 330 lb.ft. and sells for around $1300.
I love going to car shows. I recently attended one of Tucson, AZ largest car shows called “Cops and Rodders” (for my 3rd year). It is huge by our standards, over 500 cars, trucks, military vehicles, emergency response vehicles and a lot more. Entering my cars is a lot of fun and getting to talk about them we complete strangers, often having nothing in common with you except that love of cars, is a great way to spend a day.
Besides having conversations with anyone that stops by, I enjoy wandering around the shows. There aren’t too many cars that don’t interest me. Oh I don’t really care for the tricked out PT Cruiser with the giant stereo or limo-Hummers (or any other SUV in that configuration), but there’s something about most cars I can find to like.
One of my favorite, all time favorite thing are the painted dash boards of the 60’s and earlier cars. The lines are clean, the surface is smooth and rather than dull down the interior it makes bright and colorful and the contract between the paint, the chrome that normally accompanies them and the gauges just stand out that much more.
Take this 1960’s Impala. It’s bright and clean. Not the dull, padded dashes of today’s cars. Yes..I get the safety aspects and that’s a good thing, but come on, look at this and say you don’t like it…I bet you can’t.
1960 Impala
It's a thing of beauty!!!!
Got a painted dash? Send me a pic and I’ll post it up.
10/12/50 – Kaiser-Fraizer built their 500,000th car – 4 years later they opened up car manufacturing in South America.
1950 Kaiser-Frazers
10/13/1902 – Packard Motor Car Co was formed out of the old Ohio Automobile.
1902 Packard Run-About
10/15/24 – The original Mr. Government Auto Company Bailout. Mr.Lee Iacocca was born this date. If that’s all you remember him for, turn your car lover card…this guy rocked it in the car world!!!! This might change your mind…yea…the Mustang was his baby too.
How ya like him now???!!!!!
And now for the new arrivals!!!
10/14/65 – the Oldsmobile Toronado – a friend of my had one of these when I was in college back in the late 1970’s. It was my first awareness of a front wheel drive car.
1966 Toronado - Kool factor of 8.5 out of 10.
And one of my favorites
10/16/58 the Chevy El Camino arrives. Now I’m big fan of those fins!!! These also spawned the GMC Sprint and a few other variations.
10/4/1983 A new land speed record is set by Thrust2 a British jet propelled car. It was driving by Richard Noble and reached a top speed of 650.88 but the actual record was 633.468 base on the average of two runs within one hour.
Thrust 2 - but ya know..it's a rocket..not a car
10/6/1955 – Ford takes is Lincoln Continental to the Paris Car Show
1955 Continental
and on the same day ll years later (1966 — so you don’t have to do the math) Cadillac give the world a peak at the Eldorado.
1966 Eldorado - Here's a Pink one.
10/8/1959 – Ford introduces the Falcon and thus started a racing legacy. These cars were light and are still round as they make great drag racers.
1969 Ford Falcon - notice on much the tail lights look like a Maverick's
10/8 – Two birthdays on this date
1890 Edward Rickenbacker – World I U.S. Fighter ACE, created the Rickenbacker Motor Company which only lasted 7 year before bankrupting him – make the first cars with 4 wheels braking system. Owned the Indianapolis Speedway between the Wars.
1922 Rickenbacker Touring Car
1869 Frank Duryea – Created Duryea Motor Wagon Company – first gasoline powered car.
Duryea
Thanks for reading. Coming up more wrenching tips and the first installment of the next engine series featuring Chevy’s 283 power plant.
