Neil Armstrong Corvette heads toward preservation | Hemmings Blog: Classic and collectible cars and parts

Neil Armstrong Corvette heads toward preservation | Hemmings Blog: Classic and collectible cars and parts.

 

 

Neil Armstrong Corvette heads toward preservation

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Photos by Roger Kallins.

Of the dozens of Corvettes famously linked to the astronauts of the moon-shot Sixties, only a handful of documented Apollo-era astronaut-owned‘Vettes survive, none of them as original as the 1967 Corvette once owned by the late Neil Armstrong. Now, thanks to a new initiative, that Corvette will undergo a preservation effort that will keep it just as Armstrong had it.

One of the many Corvettes that Florida Chevrolet dealer Jim Rathmann sold to those with the Right Stuff, Armstrong’s Marina Blue mid-year coupe emerged from the St. Louis assembly plant on December 9, 1966, and passed into his possession six days later. Equipped with the 390hp 427-cu.in. V-8, a four-speed transmission, air conditioning, power brakes, power windows, tinted windows, transistorized ignition, and the AM-FM radio, the coupe served Armstrong for the next year, until he traded it in at Rathmann Chevrolet for a 1968 Corvette convertible. A day later, a fellow NASA employee bought it, beginning a 44-year stretch of ownership that ended earlier this year when current owner Joe Crosby bought it.

Crosby, a Corvette restorer from Merritt Island, Florida, actually first got wind of the Corvette in the summer of 1979, when the second owner still had it on the road. “My brother and I both talked about buying it,” Crosby said. “At the time we didn’t know it had something to do with Neil Armstrong, we just knew that it was a big-block car with its original engine. All the Corvettes I’ve restored have had their original engines. But I had two other Corvettes I was working on at the time, so I passed.”

Regardless, he kept in touch with the second owner, calling him about once a year to chat and see if the Corvette was still for sale. At one point over the years the second owner revealed that Armstrong originally owned the Corvette, but the answer always remained no. In the meantime, the second owner moved the Corvette into a heated and air-conditioned garage and put it up on jackstands with the intentions of turning it into a family project. He modified it with fender flares, as was the fashion of the time, but got no farther with it.

Even up to late 2011, the second owner refused to sell, but then one day in late February he called Crosby and asked him if he still wanted to buy it. “It took me about five minutes to get the trailer ready to pick it up,” Crosby said. After getting it home, his initial assessment showed the Corvette to be in largely original condition, apart from the flares, thanks to its 31-year hibernation and the 38,000 miles on the odometer. “The rubber fuel hoses were like potato chips, dry and crumbling, but the gas tank was clean and shiny, and the spare tire had never been out of its carrier.” With careful pre-lubrication and some new lengths of fuel hose, the 427 actually fired up for Crosby. The water pump and mufflers had at some point been replaced, but for an experienced Corvette restorer like Crosby, finding date-coded replacements took little effort. Finding four NOS fenders, however, proved a challenge. “I took a six-week safari around the country to find four GM fenders,” he said. “I paid a fortune for them all, but I could not bring myself to get reproduction fenders if the real ones were still out there.”

As for authenticating the Corvette as Armstrong’s, Rathmann did keep files on all of his astronaut cars, but subsequent owners of the dealership destroyed those records. Still, Armstrong’s name appears on the Protect-O-Plate, and Crosby convinced Jack Legere, a friend of his who works at NASA, to show Armstrong Crosby’s photos of the Corvette during one of Armstrong’s periodic visits to Florida. “He immediately recalled it and grinned ear to ear,” Crosby said. “He didn’t have time then to check it out in person, and we all know what happened next.” Armstrong died in late August at the age of 82.

Up until this summer, Crosby intended to subject the Corvette to a full restoration, as he had with all of his other Corvettes, but then mid-year expert David Burroughs, a champion of original and preserved cars, convinced him to call preservationist Eric Gill of nearby Port Orange, Florida. Like Burroughs, Gill prefers preservation over restoration, particularly when it comes to cars with provenance, such as the Neil Armstrong Corvette. “Preservation is the cutting edge in the hobby right now,” Gill said. “The term is deceptive because some people think it just means sitting on the car, but we’re actually developing protocols for retaining the history of a car, as opposed to wiping away all that history in a restoration. A historically significant car is only as interesting as the people who gave it that history.”

After several conversations between Crosby and Gill, the two put together a team – including restorer/preservationist Allan Scheffling, videographer Chris Hoch, photographer Roger Kallins, and Legere – that will carefully document the Corvette as it sits now and identify steps to take in the coupe’s preservation. “I’m calling this a reactive preservation, which means that we have to react to a situation that exists that is inappropriate to the historical integrity of the car, in this case the fender flares,” Gill said. “We want to take it back to the condition it was in when Neil Armstrong traded it in.”

The hardest part of the preservation, Gill said, will be replacing the flares with sections of unflared fenders and then distressing the new paint over the replaced sections to harmonize with the existing paint. “We won’t be replacing the full fenders, which will inflate the number of hours we’ll have in the car, but will also give us the opportunity to disturb as little of the original paint as possible. We hope to do it in such a way that you can’t tell even though you know it’s been replaced.”

Crosby has since come around to Gill’s line of thinking, at least for this car. “Once you restore a car, you can’t ever go back to the way it was,” Crosby said. “Some people might see it as a beat-up old car, but people like us see that if you undo all that, it’s no longer Neil Armstrong’s car. This isn’t a car, it’s a piece of history, and the chance of having just one car like this is just astronomical.”

Due to the detailed nature of the process that Gill and his team have outlined, they have no set timeline, but they plan to post more information to their website, RecaptureThePast.com, and provide Hemmings Daily with updates to the preservation as it proceeds.

Spec Clutches

 

This is the Clutch I’ve added to my Corvette.
I have the stage III
check out video:
http://spectvonline.com/featured_landing.php?reset=true

 

07 Corvette – When a good clutch goes bad!

Few post back I mentioned the issues with being able to shift the C6 into reverse and then generally the shift began to get worse.  Additionally the clutch fluid would become low.

As most Corvette owners know, the C6 has a separate hydraulic clutch.  I had the fluid flushed numerous times and eventually we found a small leak at the clutch slave cylinder.

Replaced the cylinder and stopped the leak.  This stopped the fluid usage and shifting improved, but only slightly.

Eventually it began getting much worse.  With the ignition on the car would not go into reverse at all.  The only way to get it into reverse was to turn the car off, put the that trans in reverse and start the car. Even then, it would sometimes kick itself out of gear when started   Then highway shifting began slipping and RPM when up.

I do auto cross the car and I guess some spirited street driving.  Here is what my clutch and flywheel now look like, yes… I saved them!!!

Clutch1

 

Clutch 2

 

Those shiny rivets – not a good thing!!!!

The Flywheel, interesting coloration, don’t you think?

 

 

Yes it was time for a replacement.

 

What was the replacement?

That is coming up next.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

 

 

 

Desensitized to Speed

Could I be desensitized to speed?

I was told it would happen when I upgraded my Mustang from a 6 cylinder to a V8.  I was told it would happen when I got my first Corvette (1984 C4 with 205 hp).  I was told it would happen when I got my second Corvette (07 C6).

And I was sort of told that numerous years ago by an Air Force pilot.  I didn’t believe it each time.
No one can fault me, except some “car purists”, for taking the 250 straight 6 motor from my Mustang and replaced it with a V8 302 bored .030 nor when I attempted to increase the HP in my C4 Corvette from 205 to 245 with a new fangled intake (never actually took place).  Those were pretty understandable upgrades considering the 250 in the Mustang had no get up and go  (more like lay down and won’t) when the AC was on.  For that matter why would ever limit a Corvette to 205 hp?

Now the C4 is gone but the Mustang puts out about 300 hp and the C6 is at about 420.   I remember saying, “400 hp?  That’s plenty for me!!!” when I bought the C6.    And it should be.  I’m certain that this SHOULD be ‘true’.  But why then, do I have a set of 351 Cleveland Cobra Jet heads sitting in the garage for the Mustang. And why am I pricing superchargers for the Corvette?

I started thinking  about this driving the C6 on my way to work today, recalling back when the Mustang was 195 hp and the 84 Vette was just 10 more than the Stang and wishing I had more. As I stepped on the throttle entering the Interstate, I thought to myself, I which I had a bit more power now.   That’s just plan crazy talk!!!    Just a year ago I was happy with the C6’s   power and now its like… yeah its powerful, most powerful in the HOA I bet (why didn’t I just say “neighborhood”?).  What happened?

What has happened is that I drive the Vette daily and it as become common place to have that power at a bend of my right ankle.  I am sure that if I drove a Toyota Corolla every day and took the Vette out on the weekends, I would still be in awe of the power.   I’ve just come so accustom (not complacent, mind you) to driving the car that it doesn’t seem extra ordinary (although intellectually I know that 400 plus hp is no joke).

That doesn’t  explain the desire to upgrade the Mustang though, does it?  So what does?   I think that rational here is more rooted in my own attachment to what the last 60’s and 70’s muscles cars should be.  But still when I’m driving it I wish for more power.  You understand that don’t  you?  When you look at a 1969 Mustang and it has its original 6 cylinder in it, you say…”That’s nice. Its all original.”  However when you see a 1970 Mustang Mach I with its massive engine…you say…’WOW!!!  F-ing A that’s what I’m talking about!!!!”  So it’s some of that for sure.

So here is where I am with my cars and thinking about it  took me back to one of my military supervisor.  He was a LT Col and was one of the few that flew the SR-71 for a living.  He shared a story with me about flying a mission and on the return trip received a warning light on the instrument panel.  This required him to have to slow the aircraft down bit.  He said to me, “…and I thought GREAT  it’ll take forever to get home at only Mach 2.  I realized how relative speed it was.”

Thanks for reading and keep it under Mach 1.  (Yes I’m sure that’s enough power…perhaps.)

Tim

Transitioning to Modern Transmissions Prt 3

 

Posted By John Katz, June 25, 2012 in E-News, Engine & Drivetrain

Part 1  http://wp.me/pKHNM-1cL
Part 2  http://wp.me/pKHNM-1cL

From www.hotrodandrestoration.com

Switch Shifters

With manual transmissions in demand, it isn’t surprising to find that a fair number of vehicles—particularly muscle-era vehicles—that left the factory with an automatic transmission are being rebuilt with a manual. Frederick estimated that about 60 percent of American Powertrain’s classic muscle car customers are replacing an automatic transmission with a manual.

“[The conversion] is time-consuming, but not terribly complicated,” Frederick said. “Most of the parts bolt in.”

“It isn’t for the faint-of-heart or for anyone short on patience, but it’s do-able,” Hill added. “It’s just a matter of working through the process.”

Obviously you’ll need a pedal assembly; fortunately, according to Hill, there are a lot of aftermarket units that work quite well.

“That also gives you the option of using a hydraulic release bearing instead of a mechanical clutch linkage, which, depending on the application, can have some advantages,” Hill said. “It’s going to take a longer or shorter drive shaft. It’s going to take a different yoke on that driveshaft. The power bushing in the motor for the transmission input shaft may have to be changed. The starter could be affected by the diameter of the flywheel you put into the vehicle.

“You start at the back of the crankshaft and start matching componentry as well as possible—and if you can’t match it, then you have to compensate for it,” Hill continued. “I don’t think we’ve ever run into something we couldn’t convert, as long as we’re talking about American muscle.”

Many of the same issues crop up even when swapping one manual for another—for example, the customer who has a 454 and a Muncie and wants to put a modern six-speed in it.

Like many other projects, it’s significantly easier with older (i.e., pre-computer) hardware. If either the engine or the transmission came with computer controls, it gets a little more involved. And keep in mind that even some modern manuals now have computer controls—the GM transmission that comes with the LS engine, for example, with its skip-shift function.

Of course, some customers will want to go the other way and replace a factory manual with a new, high-tech automatic.

“It’s most important to make sure you have all the correct components—and that you make the finished job look appealing to the customer,” said Poff of TCI. “It’s the mounting that’s most likely to give you trouble.”

According to the experts, you’ll need to ensure that you have the right crossmembers and that there’s enough room inside the tunnel.

“There is no one-size-fits-all solution; every application is unique,” added Poff. “But once the physical installation is accomplished, it’s pretty straightforward to make everything operational.”

Either way, Nichols suggested finding out from the customer how critical it is to keep the car looking original, versus the cost to locate and install all of the correct original components.

As with so much else in hot rodding, the best results generally come from purchasing and installing complete systems.

“That goes for any product from any company in this business,” Frederick said. “We say, ‘Look, we have a turnkey kit. We figured it all out, and all you to do it plug and play.’ Buy it all from one source and you know all the parts are going to work together.”

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

 

Transitioning to Modern Transmissions Prt 1

This is a great article.  If you are building a hot rod from scratch or you are taking your muscle car to a modern level  you will find some good information in this piece.  I toyed with the idea of putting a modern manual 5 speed trans in my 70 Mustang, but I opted for a rebuild Shelby 4 speed manual.  (Check out all 3 parts.)
Posted By John Katz, June 25, 2012 in E-News, Engine & Drivetrain
From www.hotrodandrestoration.com

Derided as “slushboxes” in the days when hot rodding was young, automatic transmissions have long since closed the performance gap and won the respect of (at least some of) the most dedicated lead foots. Today, even the fuel-economy advantages of the old-standard stick shift are more memory than reality, as the shiftless set has drawn even with, or pulled slightly ahead of, the shifters. Backing up these advances is a great deal of detailed engineering, especially of the electronic variety.

But a lot of it’s simply due to more gears—a wider range of ratios, allowing for relaxed, low-rpm cruising with peak torque still available on demand. About 10 years ago, a four-speed automatic with a lockup converter was the hot ticket to optimize performance with economy. Now the OEMs are building five-, six- and seven-speed automatics—and hot rodders want them, too.

Not that the shift-for-yourself crowd has been caught napping—six gears are now the required minimum in any respectable OEM performance car, and that’s left three-pedal rodders craving more ratios, too.

More Is Better
“Enthusiasts in every segment of the hot rod and muscle car markets are removing traditional three-speed gearboxes and replacing them with modern four-, five- and six-speed transmissions,” said Stanley Poff, who heads product and sales for TCI Automotive in Ashland, Mississippi. “As they experience modern overdrive automatics in their daily drivers, they become more inclined to want the same driving experience in their hot rods.”

TCI’s new 6x Six-Speed can be adapted to most GM small-block, big-block or LS engines; Ford small and big blocks; and Chrysler small blocks, big blocks and late-model Hemis.

“We build it in a modified GM 4L80E case that’s been machined to accept modular bellhousings, and we keep all of the Reid Racing bellhousings in stock,” Poff said. “We can put together a complete package for all of those applications, including the transmission, bellhousing, EZ-TCU electronic control, cooler, shifter (conventional and/or paddle-type), TCI transmission fluid and a dipstick.”

TCI currently offers the 6x in two models, rated for 850 and 1,000 horsepower, respectively. Models for 1,250 and 1,500 horsepower are in the works, according to Poff.

The market has also responded well to the company’s EZ-TCU, he said.

“It allows you to retrofit a modern electronically controlled automatic transmission, such as our 6x, or the GM 4L60E, 4L65E, 4L70E, 4L80E or 4L85E, to a carbureted engine, or an engine with a self-tuning EFI system such as the FAST EZ-EFI,” Poff said.

TCI worked with FAST to develop the EZ-TCU.

“It follows the FAST model of being extremely user-friendly and easy to install even by people who lack either tuning or electronics experience,” Poff said. “We sell a lot of EZ-TCU units to people who want to put a crate engine and electronic transmission in a classic street rod or muscle car.”

Pete Nichols, sales manager for Hughes Performance in Phoenix, pointed to the classic muscle car market, where “more and more people are building these cars with significantly higher-than-stock levels of horsepower and torque,” he said. “That requires a premium, high-strength aftermarket torque converter and transmission assembly.”

To meet these demands, Hughes now builds all of its GM 700R-4, 200-4R and Ford AOD transmissions with the upgraded, constant-pressure valve bodies.

“These valve bodies contribute to improved shift quality and more consistent shift timing, while reducing the possibility of premature transmission failure due to a broken or incorrectly adjusted throttle-valve (TV) cable,” Nichols explained. “The new design also eliminates a lot of the complexity and hassle associated with the TV system on these transmissions, so retrofitting them into older cars is easier than before.”

Hughes has also introduced a custom bellhousing system that allows builders to bolt the popular GM 4L80E behind a wide variety of GM, Ford and Chrysler engines without using an adapter. The company offers custom 4L80E options for applications producing 500–1,500-plus flywheel horsepower, and for virtually any popular V-8 engine.

Nichols emphasized the need to properly flush the transmission cooler and cooler lines before installing a new torque converter.

“Debris gets easily trapped in the old cooler and then it gets flushed out during the initial run-in period, inevitably working its way into the valve body, governor, etc.,” he said, adding that getting a new cooler is the best way to prevent debris-related failures.

Part 2 coming up.

Tim

Engine Building/Mods – Piston Speed

OK, if there has one thing that being a forum surfer has taught me over my brief tenure of being such, is there are a lot of things that affect, generate, hinder and enhance engine performance that are not understood or simply just ignored.

Most of this stuff is simply just not shared, be it that they are considered speed secrets or the lay person simply does not understand it, whatever.

I wanted to start a thread to discuss some factors that affect engine performance and the parameters that performance engines live within. Read, argue, whine or cry, this is the truth.  And as Jack Nicholson said in "A Few Good Men"- "you can't handle the truth".  Well, maybe you can, let's find out.

Get your calculators ready, over the next few weeks, you will need them.

Now, with all of that out of the way, let's start by nailing down the first thing we need to consider when wanting to build a new engine and get the maximum performance out of it.  Knowing what we want to use it for will deliver the best possible results.  Building a high strung engine to take the family to picnics on Sundays will probably not deliver the experience you are after. Well, maybe the experience you are after, but probably not everyone else in the car.

The best place to build a starting point is to determine intended purpose of our engine and then correlate this to a range of piston speeds.

Piston speed will have a crazy-huge effect on how the engine performs.

I am going to break this down into different categories.  For those of you playing along at home, I will give you several examples to experiment with, I am not going to lead you down a primrose path to a result that I have predetermined.  Your rules, build what you want without spending a dime.

OK, the categories are:

Street engines (stock)
Mild performance or street/strip
Endurance/NASCAR/Road Race
Maximum effort (Mileage limited/drag race)
AYFKM effort (Component failure limited)

Now, the classification for each of these categories are split by how fast we fling the piston. But first, I guess we need to know how to determine piston speed so we can then determine which category we belong in, or vice versa.

The formula for Mean Piston Speed (MPS) is MPS in ft per minute=(inches of crankshaft stroke x (engine RPM/6))

Depending on the stroke of the crankshaft, and the RPM you expect to see, we can categorize our engine. This will affect our pocketbook, because it will directly affect the type and quality of parts we need to buy to support our performance objectives.

Now let's put these categories in a manner where piston speed can help us determine what we are building. Or, what we need to build to fit into a certain performance category.

Street engines (stock)                                   2000 to 3000 ft/min
Mild performance or street/strip                         3000 to 4000 ft/min
Endurance/NASCAR/Road Race                               4000 to 5000 ft/min
Maximum effort (Mileage limited/pro class drag race)     5000 to 6000 ft/min
AYFKM effort (Component failure limited)                 6000 to 7500+ ft/min

OK, so if you tried a few different combinations, you probably realize we can change the category by solely changing the stroke, changing our RPM, or both.  So great, wow, what a speed secret.  Thanks a whole pantload Parker, I read through all of this for that?  You're an asshole.  Yeah, I know I am, thanks. But the thing that we need to understand about the formula is you need to understand engine speed (RPM) is power.  Let's take a look at two theoretical engines and another formula, this one you have probably seen.

Horsepower = (Torque x RPM)/5252

By solely changing RPM, I can make one of these engines a grocery getter and the other, an F1 contender.

Two little six cylinders; both make an eyeball popping 246 pound feet of torque  :lol 

In the first one, my maximum usable RPM is 4500, and when plugged into the above formula (go ahead and do it, doofus), we see the engine is capable of making about 210 horsepower.  :facepalm: 

Now we will leave everything the same as far as torque, but let's give the engine an F1 race car caliber RPM of 19,250.  After you do the math (I don't have to call you doofus this time, do I?) we see that though my torque stayed 246 lb/ft, my horsepower climbed to a panty-dropping 910!  :willy 

RPM is power folks, RPM is the shit.  RPM can also stand for "Ruins People's Motors" if you don't know how to handle your newfound knowledge.

Piston action has a dramatic effect in the way air and fuel enter, and exhaust leaves the engine. Going back to our categories, we are going to relate the effectiveness of this piston action with our engine and piston speed categories. We do this using something called Volumetric Efficiency, or VE. VE simply put is; if I have a 100 cubic inch engine, and that engine can breathe in and expel 100 cubic inches of air for every camshaft (two crankshaft) revolution(s), it is 100 percent volumetric efficient. If the design of the heads, intake and exhaust only allow 85 cubic inches of airflow through the engine, it is 85% volumetric efficient.  If it can move 110 cubic inches of air flow, then it is 110% volumetric efficient.  Are engines over 100% VE possible?  Why yes, yes they are, and I am going to show you how to build one. Wow, a 350 cubic inch engine that can move 385 cubic inches worth of airflow?  Oh yes, yes indeed.

But that will wait until the next installment, for now, let this digest.

Street engines (stock)                                   2000 to 3000 ft/min              80-90% VE
Mild performance or street/strip                         3000 to 4000 ft/min              90-110% VE
Endurance/NASCAR/Road Race                               4000 to 5000 ft/min              110-120% VE
Maximum effort (Mileage limited/pro class drag race)     5000 to 6000 ft/min              120 to 127% VE
AYFKM effort (Component failure limited)                 6000 to 7500+ ft/min             125 to 128% VE

So we have learned that how fast the piston moves has a great affect on the performance I can expect.  And we also learned that piston speed is primarily controlled by the stroke of the crankshaft and the RPM of the engine. We also see how changing piston speed makes my engine fall into different performance categories.

Next time I will give you some real world examples I have tuned on the engine dyno and tested on the drag strip, as well as begin to talk about hw we get the air into the engine to take advantage of all of this piston speed we just talked about.

Cheers,  Parker


 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

The topic can be found here:
http://www.arizonacorvetteenthusiasts.net/arizonavette/forums/index.php?showtopic=21188

Steve’s C4 Update

I've been fiddling a bit with the Vette.  I have a few projects to do now that I've become a lot more familiar with the car in the last two and a half months.

Although the car sounds cool, the cheap aftermarket mufflers are completely rusted inside.  The baffles are all loose with lots of holes.  On the outside they look new.  They are the source of most of the rattles.

The lumbar supports on the sport seats don't work.  I can't hear the pumps run so inspecting electrics first on those.

Rear speaker amps are toast.  Expensive so it's not high on the list.

Steve’s 1990 C4

Tranny service due.  No biggie and not expensive.

PRNDL lights are out.  Not bad considering it's 22 years old and all other lights work.  I was amazed at the sheer number of lights inside.  Courtesy lights and mood lighting.  The interior alone must have 15 individual lights.

Drivers side headlight motor needs to be repaired.  It works most of the time. LOL.

It's a pretty short list considering the age.

It pretty much sits in the garage.  We are in the 100's (110 today) this week so it's morning and evening use.  The ac does not work but it still has the factory seals on the service ports so I'm hoping for good news there.  We do have R12 available here.  I unbolted the roof when I got it and it hasn't been back on since.  I always wanted a convertible and the coupe is a good compromise.

The most annoying thing about the car is the static electricity. It doesn't shock me or anything but dust sticks to it like glue and the California duster only moves it from place to place.  I never thought about a "plastic" body in that way.  The duster works just fine on my steel cars.

Slacking – What’s Coming Up

Yes, I’ve been slacking a bit on the blogging, but have good reason.  Ok…not really but here’s what is coming up.

–  A couple  new Engine Lineup articles

– An unexpected new project shows up

– An unexpected problem with the Mustang

– Corvette headlight issues

–  More probing on the Corvette gas gauge issues

– Corvette clutch fluid leak

– Pick up my RSS feed and your name will be entered in my monthly drawing for a die cast replica and other KOOL stuff.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

The Official 2012 Corvette Production Numbers Are Here!

by on June 7, 2012

It’s nearing the peak of summer, which means 2013 model year cars are only weeks away from being released. But before we can welcome in the last of the C6 models for next year, we owe it to the 2012′s to take a look back and see just how well the Corvette did this year. So here are some of the production numbers for the Corvette’s 2012 model year compliments of CorvetteBlogger, and some of them may just surprise you.

Just like in the 2010 and 2011 model years, the Grand Sport got the most amount of buys for 2012. Between the Grand Sport coupe (5,056 sold) and the GS convertible (2,268 sold) , the model made up nearly 63 percent of all Corvette sales. Coming in at a far second, was the base model with 2,820 coupes and just 651 convertibles sold to make up 29.5 percent of Corvette sales.

As far as the high-rolling Z06 and ZR1′s go, only 478 Z06 models were sold, making up 4.1 percent of total sales, and only a measly 404 ZR1′s were sold, making up just 3.5 percent of sales. In total, 11,647 Corvettes were manufactured for the 2012 model year.

Not surprisingly, the most popular color among the 2012 models was Torch Red with 19.5 percent of Corvettes sold sporting the color. The vibrant shade was closely followed by the Carbon Flash Metallic paint of the special Centennial Edition cars. Nearly 19 percent of Corvettes sold featured the special edition package.

Other interesting tidbits we found browsing through the 2012 production numbers were that 62.3 percent of Corvettes were sold with Ebony interiors while only 88 were sold with yellow stitching accents and 105 sold with blue stitching accents.

Option packages appear to have been popular with 2,416 Corvettes sold with the 1LT option package, 1,691 sold with the 2LT package, and 5,510, or 47.3 percent, sold with the 3LT package.

For more of the 2012 model year numbers, check out the full report from CorvetteBlogger.com.