As we close out the year that was 2010, I celebrate the first year anniversary of Average Guy’s Car Restoration, Mods and Racing.
Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed jotting down my thoughts and experiences. Mostly, I’ve enjoyed hearing back from readers here on my Word Press main site and in other social media.
This past year I’ve seen the page views on this “one man” blog go from just a couple per week, to nearly 1500 a month. Not bad for a non-commercial blog, with no paid advertising. So THANK YOU. I hope to hear from and read your comments and views in 2011.
What’s coming up in 2011? Mods on the ’70 Mustang, tweaking of the LS2 on the 07 Corvette and I’ll continue with the Auto Factoids in their new format. You will see more mini engine series, kicking off the New Year one of my favorites Chevy’s 283 and there will be more racing events, test ‘n’ tunes and Mom and Pop racing teams highlighted. There will be more contests and DVDs to give away and project updates from readers. Oh…I’m coming out with the Average Guy’s 2011 Calendar look for that on-line.
It’s going to be a fun new year.
To you and yours – may 2011 bringing nothing but happiness and joy.
While I’m currently working on the project plan for all the modifications, I still get the urge to spend a beautiful winter’s day doing some wrenching. Oh…here in southern Arizona you wait for winter days like today, Sunny and near 70 degrees…oh yes..perfect day for being outside and working on your projects. ( Don’t hate me ’cause I’m warm!!!)
Modifications pending, there are still little things that can be done. A few weeks ago I noticed a loose fender bolt. Now normally these bolts are screwed in to clip/slide on nuts (some times called “short nuts” but I just couldn’t put that in the title) that are slid over the edge of one of pieces you need to hold together.
Slip-on or Short Nut
So if a bolt becomes loose it is often the cause of vibration, and if left unattended you can actually loose the slip-on nut. Unless…..it doesn’t have one and a traditional nut has been used.
A while back I ordered a couple of bags of bolts and short nuts for my Mustang and today I decided to spend a few minute and replace the loose one and check the others.
What I found was a bit odd. Three of the bolts on right fender (do I have to say right “front” fender? I hear that all the time, but I grew up knowing that fenders were in the front and quarter-panels were in the rear.) did not have the short nuts, but rather the tradition bolts. I checked the left “front” (just in case) fender and found them to all have slip-on nuts.
I can understand that some where in the 41 year life span (Oh…incidentally..I’m technically the 3rd owner, with the to previous owners beginning a mother, daughter combo) of my ’70 coupe that someone took it a part, lost the slip-on nuts and yes it was just a driver car so that’s possible. However, on closer inspection I noticed that the normal slots that would allow the assembler to slide the short nut on were not there for the three bolt holes at the front of the fender (or at the front of the front fender….ok sorry, enough of that).
Square Slot that allows for the installation (Left of the bolt)
Bolt Holes without the slot.
So I wondering how much after-market parts are actually on the my Mustang. When I had the car repainted, we did discover that the right door was replaced (paint underneath was blue) so why not the fender? The options I have are to, remove the entire fender and if the holes are not blocked by aftermarket fender then I’ll have to consider using the traditional bolt and nut or I’d have to cut the slots.
Now that’s not the only aftermarket issues I discovered. Those two bags of bolts and short nuts…..yeah..they aren’t the right size. Although the are sold as “fitting 1968-1970 Mustangs” the original are 1/2 ” nuts and these are 7/16″. Well yeah..they’ll fit…heck there are all kinds down the street at ACE Hardware that will fit too!!!
As part of the mods and upgrades for my 70 Mustang, I plan on replacing all the carpet. Before I do that however, I’m going to lay down some heat and sound proofing (but that is another post).
As I start project planning, I’m looking around for parts and materials, as well as any helpful hints. (If you have any at any time, drop me a comment.) Although certain portions of the restro-mod will have to be done together, like carb and intake or heads and cam (yes I’m all four will be done at the same time), many can be accomplished separately, like adding the heat/sound proofing and the carpeting, before upholstery of the seats. In the Mustang getting the seats out are easy enough (keep in mind my goal is to not have the car tied up too long between stages) so replacing the seats after the carpet installation, isn’t a problem.
As a reminder, the mods will be done in adherence to budget, time and events. So there maybe a need to move between different phases to accommodate either 3 of those factors.
O.K., so where was I, oh yeah..carpet shopping.
As I looking on-line for the best place for ordering carpeting, began to notice a lot of choices. I start thinking “I’m going to have call up on deck my personal award-winning interior designer (that would be my wife – by profession…no not wife by profession although I’m sure thinks it’s her 3rd career, but Interior Designer by profession). Here is a little bit of what I found:
Plush Cut Pile
Ultra-Plush Cut Pile
Neon Cut Pile
100% Nylon Loop
I’m thinking, “holy cow!!!…What the heck is this?!! Ultra-Plush Cut Pile? I’m not building a ’60 Love Van!!! Oh it gets better..yeah.. you guessed it samples!!!!!
Misty Gray
BuckSkin
My favorite - Cinnabar
Oh..come on!!! Cinnabar!!!! Really!!?? Um..yup. Oh and there were many more, like Medium Gray and Silver Mist and Nutmeg and Fire Thorn!!!! I’m not kidding.
So I’m looking round to make sure know one’s looking over my shoulder (as I’m doing this over my lunch at work..on my personal smart phone…just in case “they” are reading!!!) All the time I thinking…”It’s black..all I know is that it’s black!”
Who knew that there was that much to look at? Not this Average Guy.
Luckily I found this snippet on one site and it all became clear:
Plush Cut Pile
Our nylon cut pile is constructed from 100% first quality yarn and is similar to what is found in most cars since 1974. It is tufted on a 1/8 gauge machine with 14 ounces of yarn per square yard. It is dyed using the finest dyes available and tested for ozone humidity fading & light fastness.
Ultra-Plush Cut Pile
This carpet is a super plush upgrade to our standard Cut Pile. A 100% nylon cut pile manufactured with over 40% more nylon fiber than our standard cut pile. It is dyed using the finest dyes available and tested for ozone humidity fading & light fastness.
Ok..still not sure here!!!
Neon Cut Pile
Our Neon Cut Pile colors are a great look if you want to make a statement! Although these are not stock colors, they would be appropriate for all applications. There is an additional 15% charge for all applications made with Neon Cut Pile.
What…not stock colors!!!??!!! What? Are you sure that is color
wasn’t stock? It’s Pink!!!!
And the clouds parted and it all became clear. The very last one was this:
100% Nylon Loop
A 100% nylon loop. This material is appropriate for pre-1975 applications only, and was the original type construction used in 1969-1973 Mustangs.
What you will see unfold in these updates is an exercise in project management for the modifications. When I originally scoped out the components for the 302 that replaced the 250, I used a similar process, but very detailed. I wasn’t overly concerned with improvements other than what a dropped in 302 would provide over that tired old straight 6. (Clearly..I left the 3 speed manual trans in it.)
But this time it’ll be different. There is a lot to do and unlike the previous rebuild, money will be tight and free time limited. The main goal I have is to keep the car in operation in between stages of modification. This will take a clear and well laid out plan, where issues similar to the installation of the dash pad before the pillar post trim arrived (doh!), could be more than just a cost in time.
Below is a high level sketch of what I’d like accomplish with the Mustang. I’ll update this list with more details as I figure which brands, sizes and the like that will be used. Over on my Facebook pages I have already received some feedback and suggestions and I’ll post these up here in some cleverly titled entry.
So give me your suggestions or opinions and as the progression goes even tell me if you don’t like the choice and why.
Brakes and Suspension:
– Upgrade to 4 wheel disc (Brand and size TBD)
– Replace front and rear stabilizer bars (Brand and size TBD)
– Control arms already replaced
– Rebuild power steering
– Shocks already upgraded
Exhaust:
– Add cut-out before mufflers
– Extend tailpipes to exit rear
No other changes anticipated
Interior:
– Addition of upgrade dash and interior lights
– Possible upgrade of all gauges
– Replace front seat belts with 3 point harness
– Carpet replaced
– Seats re-upholstered (upgrade to Leather/Cloth?)
– Paint lower doors
– Tilt steering wheel (Flamming River?)
Training:
Transmission
– Option 1 – Manual 4 speed with Hurts shifter
– Option 2 – T5 5 speed
– Rear Differential * Unsure if upgrade is possible or required
Engine:
* 302 stays
– Replace intake (Brand and size TBD)
– Replace 650 Holley (Holley 750 Avenger)
– Replacement of heads for more performance (undecided)
– Add custom mounting and tension for Power Steering/Alternator
– Remove Fan and replace with electric
– Add more chrome to engine (but not too much Bling..hate too much Bling)
Exterior:
Paint stays except:
– Blacked out rear light deck
– Black Hood stripe (1970 Boss 1970 302 or 1970 Mach 1) – See images below – What do you think?
– Blacked out grill
– Black Front Spoiler
– Black side Boss 302 Stripe (w/o the Boss) (dependent on hood choice)
– Magnum 500 wheels (newer version, not originals)
Hood lay outs:
Mach 1 Hood...Perhaps my favorite...currently not considering adding a scoop
Boss 302 Hood lay out
O.K., let’s hear your thoughts. They will automatically appear to the right of this posting and I’ll add the good ones in the update posts.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
Readers comments and suggestions:
Byron McElfresh December 6 at 9:09pm Report
I seen your asking for advice on heads for a 302. I built a 302 that was .040″
over bore, The larger hyd. roller ford performance cam, used edelbrock rpm
heads, i did a little clean up and evened out the valve bowls, flat top
pistons, a 750 holley Street advegner carb, rpm intake, 1 3/4″ headers, and it
made 416 hp at 6000 rpm, and 349 tq. on the dyno. in the 60 Falcon with 3.73
gears, and a 4 speed,( the guy really needs an auto trans or get a shifter that
won’t granny shift speed wise!!!) But he still ran a 12.61 at gateway.
Wow, that’s pretty good. My 302 is bore .030. Hooker headers and 65O holley. I
wasn’t planning on changing out the cam. Now the rear end great. I just can’t
do the automatic trans though!
Byron McElfreshDecember 6, 2010 at 11:43pm
Re: Hi Tim,the 302
lol-the reason I think the guy should o to an auto trans is the ultra slow
shifts he makes with the old toploader! It’s a very painfully slow 2-3
shift!!!You can almost hear the multiple double clutches! yikes! lol
Tim Sweet December 6 at 10:11pm
good point
————————————————————————
Philip Daly December 6 at 8:58pm Report
351w
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:36pm
Thanks Philip, But won’t that reduce compression? How much would you gain with
351w heads?
—————————————————-
Terry Wallace December 6 at 8:47pm Report
Ford Motorsports usually has some really great deals on 302 old school engines.
I would check there first. When it comes to flow numbers im finding through my
own testing at my machinists shop,,,,,most numbers are bullshit. beware and
test flow numbers using a reputable shop.
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:35pm
Thank Terry. I’m with you on the numbers game…happens a lot even with
Corvettes. Regards
—————————————————————–
Bill Rice December 6 at 8:46pm Report
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Great gains in HP and Torque.
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:42pm
Thanks Bill – what do you think those number might look like over a 302, bore
Corvette Hangout December 6 at 8:28pm Report
C&C aluminum heads with small chambers to get higher compression larger valves
and install 150 shot of nitros.. CorvetteHangout
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:44pm
I can get behind the higher compression..but I haven’t decided on NOS yet.
Thanks.
_————————————————————————-
Fatherlarry Monaco
1969 and 1970 Boss 302 heards and intake will work great.
Tim Sweet That was a thought I had as well.
2 seconds ago · Like
————————————————————————
Roy Oberg Aluminum is the way to go, go with a smaller combustion chamber that will give you more compression and less chance of spark knock.
about an hour ago · LikeUnlike
#
Tim Sweet 100% on board with the smaller chambers.
2 seconds ago · Like
After much internal debate about what to do with my 70 Mustang I’ve decided on a direction for Mustang.
Running out of car projects (there was always something to ‘fix’ on the ’84 Vette). The 07 Vette is going to stay as if for a while, I like just it as it is for now. The Mustang is nearly done, with just a re-upholstery with the front seat, restoring the back of the rear seat and replacing the steering column cover and new carpeting. That’s all coming up soon. But there are a few more things that are going to happen. The time frame will be fluid given the availability of funds (Average Budget) and time.
I wrestled with keeping the car original in the beginning. But with the tired old 250 straight 6 wasn’t going to make it possible, coupled with my desire to have more horse power. I’ve often thought that the 302 swap wasn’t horrible and by keeping the 3 speed manual transmission, my changes didn’t reach the level of a resto-mod and I still think I’m good there. Keeping it period (swapping out items that were actually available for a coupe as options in 1970) I thought was noble in trying to bring it up to a level of performance I “could live with” without straying too far from its original configuration. However, I understand that a ’70 Coupe isn’t ever going to reach the value of any other ’70 model or configuration of Mustang nor will it receive a comparable level of the attention at car shows.
So I’m working out a plan for taking this under rated coup to an all new level.
Currently as configured the car has the following:
Well, I don’t know about every car guy, but I do know what I like.
Some of my favorites are abandon car art, but I enjoy a lot of other subject matters as well.
If you look to the right of this post you’ll see one of my favorites. My old 1984 C4 red Corvette, closely following what would be my future car(unbeknownst to me at the time) a black C6 Corvette. I have one other favorite and that’s a rendering of the interior of my 1970 Mustang.
My 1970 Mustang
I’ve known this starving artist (he’s not really starving, my wife won’t allow that) his entire life. Ryan has a great eye for car art. (Shameless plug. This image and the image of the Corvettes, nicely framed, make great gifts, tis the season.)
While tooling a round a little town in Southern Arizona this past Black Friday (Nov 26), I happened to meet an artist named Scott Taft and had to purchase a picture of 1959 Chevy that he had transferred to metal. You can see his work at http://www.fanartreview.com/sctaft.
One other web site I ran across was this one, it’s got a little more bling, but some very nicely done pieces. It’s called Car Art Work and you can see their offerings @ www.carartwork.biz.
Car Art Work
Just for the record I don’t receive any money, free stuff or benefit in any way (other than a big thank from my son if one of his images sell) for mentioning these artists or companies. This just stuff I like.
Just recently I started comparing technology in cars that we own. A couple of months ago I purchased a 07 Corvette that has a lot more technology then the 84 Corvette I owned and a lot more than my 70 Mustang. We have also owned two newer vehicles a 2008 Lexus GS350 and now a 2011 Lexus RX 350. I’m not going to compare the technology between the two Corvettes nor would there be any reason to compare the Corvettes to the Mustang.
But what I have compared is the level of technology between U.S. cars and the two Lexus (Toyota) vehicles we’ve owned.
First up is the 2008 Lexus GS350. We purchase the car in late 2007, which, as far as a technology time line would be concerned, is smack in the middle of digital music, video and touch technology era. To better frame the time line 3 years ago while attending the Fords on 4th Ave Car Show, here in Tucson, I meet up with a couple of Microsoft guys (one of them I knew from a previous contract I worked) doing the first demo of Sync in a Lincoln. They gave me quick demo and it was excellent technology which is now about 3 years old. Yet this luxury Toyota only managed to have a horribly located, headphone port to headphone port connection for your IPOD or MP3 player. Compare this with the technology in my 2007 Corvette, it at least plays MP3 formatted CDs as well as standard CDs.
Next is the 2011 Lexus RX350, three years further into the mobile data revolution and it still seems lacking in technology. The GS350 had a touch screen information center, the RX350 does not. What replaced that is a joy stick/mouse type device.
From my wife's Rx
It seems a like a step backward. It’s much easier for you to touch the screen while driving. The RX’s device requires the moving around of a cursor, centering it on an icon and clicking the mouse-like buttons. ( Don’t get me started on distracted driving, phone calls vs. eating McDonald’s fries.) The RX is limited to a USB connection for music and that is it. Sure it has options for satellite and blue tooth (as did the GS) , but techno-backtracking from a touch screen is a bit odd and no music storage is nearly pre-historic.
Just comparing technologies for music availability the U.S. cars are ahead. Take the 2011 Buick Lucerne, it has a 60 Gig hard drive for storing music. This particular car can even record radio station you are on for playback. Ford has a host of technology to store music and using Microsoft’s Sync technology, their Fords and Lincolns brands (the dash of the new Lincoln MKX will blow you away) are far superior to the what I’ve found in the Japanese cars. Even a tone-downed Chevy Cobalt has tire air pressure sensors.
While we were test driving the RX a week ago, I asked the salesman about the missing technology and he agreed that Lexus does in fact lag behind in offering this type of technology.
Don’t you think that’s odd? Are American car manufacturers that advanced? Are our car companies just toss in everything, even the kitchen sink to sell cars? Hey..neither of those are a bad thing!!! I’m sold! Besides it a lot easier to eat fries while driving if you have a touch screen to change your music!!!
Your thoughts?
Thanks for reading and drop me a comment.
Tim
Comment from Bill
This reminds me of a co-worker who bought a new Chrysler minivan recently. He was excited to tell me about how big the harddrive was, the DVD system, the ‘info-tainment’ bus, the ability of the ‘my gig’ to link to the satiellite,and on and on. I asked what engine he had-he paused- gave me a dazed look-and said he didn’t really know?
I think Lexus does what US car manufacturers used to do; they build a car that will travel 100K miles with just a few oil changes and one set of tires, and a resale value that is 65% of the orignal sales price 10 years later. The lag of technology does not errode the MSRP sticker prices Lexus still demands for their products while Government Motors still discounts their Buicks $5,000 off MSRP to gain a sale. Then five years later that Buick has a market value of $2,200, and the poor upside down owner is looking for his own ‘bail out’.
Me personally, I’d like to see any car manufacturer ‘de-content’ their cars a bit. It not only reduces the sales price, the weight of the car (some cars have six miles of wire in them now days), but actually increases reliability (less to fail) and performance. That original formula of the Boss 302, or Plymouth Roadrunner where you got roll down windows, a bench seat, and for a few dollars you could get a tach, AC, or tinted glass as the only options is my dream come true. Don’t forget a LARGE V8 powering the rear wheels STANDARD! I’d buy a new 2011 car tomorrow if I could get a taxi cab interior with a 300HP V8 for under $25,000. I looked at the 2011 Boss 302, but it still is techno-overloaded for me to call it a true muscle car.
Can you tell now why I replaced our grocery-getter-always-repair-proned Impala with a Grand Marquis? It is (or was-Ford stopped production in September) the closest car out there that meets my formula: no navigation-no harddrive-no MP3-no Sirius-no 8 speed automatic. Bench seat-4.6l police V8-4 speed automatic-RWD; thanks, thats all I need! I’m used to the blue hair jokes and still happy with my taxi cab, hopefully for the next 20 years and 200K miles.
I have often wondered if Dodge introduced a Challenger with Hemi V8, roll up windows, AM FM radio, and the minimum government mandated equipment for around $25,000 if they would sell, or does our generation require several thousand microprocessors to be interested in their cars?
When I began the restoration of my ’70 Mustang I knew that I wanted to replace the 250 straight six, with 175k miles on it, soon. I had several option, buy a new engine, buying rebuild or buying used. I chose to buy a re-manufactured long block and add my own components.
The option of buying a used engine and rebuilding myself wasn’t an option (average guy, average space and average tools) but I would have enjoyed it.
If you are going to purchase a used engine, dragging out of a junk can save you even more. But you’ve got to check it out before getting it home.
Here are a few tips that you can follow help prevent getting something home that the only real use it can server is to fill a corner the garage.
Now you aren’t going to be able to tear the engine down right there and look over all the parts but you could do the following checks.
1. If the engine still has the spark plugs, pull them a look them over. If they appear to have oil on them you might be looking at ring or value job being necessary (you might want to do that anyway). Likewise if they have water on them you may be looking at a head gasket problems or worse.
Fouled plugs
2. Most likely you are going to be able to pull the heads but you can remove the value covers. Look at for large mounts of sludge build up. That indicates other issues as well.
Sludge Build up
3. If you can drop the oil pan, check the contents for water or coolant contamination. You can also inspect the oil pump. Issues there indicate that there may be damage to pistons and crankshaft.
Oil Pan Gunk
Currently I’m looking for a used manual 4 speed for my ’70 Mustang. Now I don’t have any tips for that yet but I’ll let you know.
As with every car show there are some very good paint jobs. There are the cars that have a traditionally paint with flawless surfaces and deep ” you could shave in them” in them shine.
Then there are unique paint schemes, ghost flames or custom air brushed images.
Here are a few from a recent car show I attended.
Check out this custom Ford pick up.
Two Tone Black and Yellow...that's not all
Check out the bed!!!!
That is some great air brushing!!!
Check out this VW Bus.
Front view
Side View
And for really interesting paint jobs. Stop by the Bike section of the show.
Ghost Rider Bike
Even if you don’t like the paint you’ve got to appreciated the effort that goes into the work. Nothing but pure art.
Got a kool paint job on your ride? Drop me a pick.
