Well win some and you lose some. If you’ve seen my other posts related the replacement of the points and condenser for the 351C you’ll notice that I gave conversion high marks. This was all based on the years of use I got out of the conversion I did on …
I’ve done all the clean up and all the adjustments necessary to get a good reading on the health of the ’72 351C engine in my 1973 Mustang. The next step is to check the compression. First up was to warm the car a bit and then pull the plugs. Here’s what the …
This is the wrap up on the compression testing for the 1973 Mustang w/ a 1972 351 Cleveland power plant. You’ll might have notices that I referred to the remote tester, which is my code for remote starter…yeah…that’s it!!! All of these tests were dry test and I should have done a …
Thanks for check in on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you remember a of couple months back, shortly after bringing the ’73 Mustang home, I conducted a compression test on all the cylinders. The 351C was running rough (to put it mildly) and smoked like a pile of tires on fire (only the smoke …
Thanks for picking backup with blogging of the work done on the 1973 Mustang Sports Roof (#ProjectSportsRoof).
The floors are done and the heat and sound barrier are completed and it’s time for the carpet.
I’ve seen some pretty awful quality carpet for cars and I’ve had friends that attempted to use the one piece kits with not great success. I chose to go with ACC Carpet 2 piece set. Because my car was ordered special ordered with the Mach I Interior I went with their “Original Style Molded Fastback Mach I for 1971-1973” (CJ’s Part Number MC9-V). It is really well-formed and pre-cut for steering column and even dimmer switch.
The pieces come folded in a box and needs to be laid out flat for a while before installing. Luckily I live in Arizona and the sun makes quick work for that.
Here are the two pieces laid out on the hood of #ProjectSportsRoof.
This image shows the pre-cuts and forming in the front piece. ‘A’ is the cutout for the steering Column, ‘B’ is the quality built-in vinyl floor mat, ‘C’ is the cutout for the dimmer switch and ‘D’ is the very well-formed door jamb and finally ‘E’ is the transmission tunnel formed part.
Here’s a pick of how it just lays there and conforms to the floor.
Now check out the full shot with the front sections in place and the shift bezel in place. Looks pretty good, yes?
At point ‘A’ you can see the contour of the floor mat portions of the carpet piece. ‘B’ is the hole with the seat mounting stud protruding (you have to cut that) and both ‘C’ locations show just a simple X cut to allow the seat bolts to slip through.
This last still shot is with the rear pieces laid out.
You can see the forming in the carpet where the rear mount of the front set lays. The circle is where I had to cut to allow the bolt to slide in.
Here is little video.
I’m very please with this carpet. As of this blogging I haven’t finished trimming it. In real-time it’s been a few months. I had to put the seats back in and get it to a charity car show. Before I had a chance to get back to carpet, the Cleveland developed a bottom end knock and that’s were we are today. I can finish up more interior work while the engine is out.
The 351C rebuild is coming up next for #ProjectSportsRoof.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is …
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. With the floor pans welding, sealing and coating finished the next step was to apply the heat and sound barrier. This is really an easy project and the benefits are noticeable.
The tools are pretty simple:
Hard Rubber Roller
A pair of good scissors, marker, a utility knife and a measuring implement (used both a ruler and measuring tape)
You won’t see step by step in this post. It maybe the most straight forward part of restoring the floor. Some may say that adding heat and sound proofing isn’t really part of the restoration. I’d have to disagree. These cars had an underlayment that served as heat and sound barrier. It wasn’t much and no where near the effectiveness as new aftermarket materials. I actually purchase the aftermarket underlayment that mimicked the original and it was close to what I pulled out of the car when I removed the carpeting. If you are going for factory correct/concours restoration it is what you should use but it’s was not going to last as long as the new material. In fact, after fitting it to the floor and see how easily it tore, I tossed it out – not great for the budget but I needed something a little more durable and effective – especially with the heat out here in Arizona.
The process is pretty simple, lay it out, measure, cut, peel off the back and stick it to the floor. No loose dirt or rust, get that all removed before you start. Once it’s down and in place roll it with a hard rubber roller. Keep the wrinkles to a minimum and make sure you get good contact with the surface.
This is the lay out.
You can still see the backing that will be pealed off.
I started off with Eastwood’s X-Mat, which is good material and should work just fine. However, I didn’t order much and switched to Cool It Thermo Tec. It came in larger rolls, less shipping cost, lower over call cost and I could get it quicker with Amazon. Among guys I know that have used various products they recommended it.
Honestly, I did some measuring (mainly to see if the left over pieces would fit with overlap), but not much was required. I laid out the strips, gave some over lap and trimmed most of it with a utility knife. Here are some pics:
Rolled out.
Rolled out.
My son stopped by to help out for a few hours. Ryan removed brace/guides that keep the back of the rear seat from sliding left or right. BTW – ensure you have old clothes on, the tar like substance on the underside is messy!! Thanks Ryan for the help!
I also covered these areas.
There was no barrier between the seat and the trunk ares when I removed the rear seat but I’m sure there must have been at one time. This was not a fold down seat.
Covered area B below the trunk pass through and A the wheel well.
This area is where the rear class would roll down but they don’t in the SportsRoof. So I put a layer of COOL IT behind the support and adhered it to the inside of quarter panel.
Here’s what that looked like when it was done.
Arrows mark the cut outs needed for the clips/tabs that hold the back and bottom of the seat and seat belt mounts. “A” (up in the right hand corner of the right picture) is the brace that keeps the back of the rear seat from sliding left and right. Ryan removed those (rather than cutting around them) and screwed them back down after putting the Cool It on.
Used the utility knife to do the same cut outs for seat and seat belt bolt to pass through and the groves for the seat belt warning wiring – yes they are getting hooked backup and the floor body plugs/drains.
A is the channel for the seat belt warning light (a light on the dash would illuminate – driver’s side was a buzzer) you can see the wire laying here. B is the body/floor drain plug. This is before covering.
Again A is the seat belt warning wire channel and B is the drain plug. It’s easy to just use the utility knife to make those cuts.
Thanks for view the progress on #ProjectSportsRoof. Coming up next is a look at the carpet install.
Other duties happen outside of working on #ProjectSportsRoof…like yard work!!!! ! While attempting to tame the foliage in the backyard on Sunday, my electric …
As I work on getting more restoration work on #ProjectSportsRoof I thought I’d share a couple of Mustang things that popped up. There are a number of reasons I …
In these next two videos, you’ll see just how ‘off’ these fenders are in some areas and surprisingly how well they fit in other areas. If you have an experience or a hit for anyone taking on this part of a restoration – drop a comment here and we’ll share them. https://youtu.be/Ga9EHbDpSfg https://youtu.be/FBKs7EG4kK0 Thanks …
Ferrari ownership and postwar royalty seem to go hand-in-hand, especially one offs. This 1955 375 Plus Cabriolet is a one-off specialty car built for the ex-King Leopold III of Belgium, and is a mix of the older engineering that put Ferrari on the map in the early Fifties and newer styling features that would later […]
Welcome back. I’m continuing on with the Engine Mini-Series – Ford’s Small Block V8s. This post covers the 260 CID.
I did mention I’d touch on the 255 but that is really out of chronological order and was merely a muted 302 used on for 3 years. It was dropped for poor performance.
So following the 221 engine (to see the post click here) was the 260 CID. This came about after the poor performance of the 221 and even with the release of a tweaked version. Enter Ford’s 260 CID. It retained the same intake and exhaust ports as the 221, the valves were larger (intake was now 1.76 and exhaust was 1.45). With it’s bore increased to 3.80 with no change to the stroke the engine put out 164 hp (about 20 more than the 221). It had a plane jane hydraulic cam and a compression ratio of 8.7:1 and capped off with a two barrel cast iron intake and carb.
The 260 was the engine Carrol Shelby used in his original Cobra and it was selected by the British car maker for the Sunbeam Tiger.
Shelby’s 1962 Cobra
1962 Sunbeam Tiger with Ford 260
The 260 was in service from 1962 to 1964 and it powered the likes of the Fairlane, Meteor (at least as an option), Comet(at least as an option), Falcon and in 1964 even the Mustang 64 1/2 (F code cars).
Engine was an overhead valve, Cast iron block with a bore and stroke 3.80 x 2.87 and Compression ratio 8.8:1 with 164 hp. It held 5 main bearings, hydraulic lifters and Autolite 2 bbl carb (Model C40F-9510-B) (Mustang configuration). The 260 was also called the Challenger 260 and could to be found topped with a Holley 2bbl Carb vs. the Autolite.
So far my writings are about engines have been ones I owned and the 283 was the engine in my very first car. It was a 1966 Chevy Impala. It was a gift to me for my 1976 high school graduation. The car was restored by my father, who was …
Oh yes, believe it or not, the 283 put the Corvette at the cutting edge of performance in 1957, fitted with the RamJet FI (fuel injection) system (“fuelie” was the gearhead term for that). In 1958 the 283 was the base engine for the Corvette, but the 283 that use …
This is the part of the engine series where I list the uses for the power plant. The 283, as I mentioned, carried Chevy engines to the next level, by being the first engine that car manufacturers were able to coax out the same horsepower as the displacement. From 1957 (its …
As I work on getting more restoration work on #ProjectSportsRoof I thought I’d share a couple of Mustang things that popped up.
There are a number of reasons I love Ford products, in particular Mustangs. One of those is the fact that it didn’t need the bailout money a few years back, choosing to tough it out and some of the innovative/purposeful special purpose options.
I recently received my Ford Mustang ‘Go Further’ brochure. I’m not including the 310 hp they are dragging out of the 2.3L EcoBoost (I’ve often said “I don’t want anything on my dash that says Eco!!!!” but wow to the 320 lb-ft of torque. Don’t even think bout the 435 hp and 400 lbs-ft of torque from the 5.0L in the GT…come on!!!! I can do with out the heated and cooled seat…meh… However, the Track Apps, MagneRide and launch control are bomb.
The most #awesome purpose built is the Electronic Line-Lock!!!! Come on…that’s what every weekend racing warrior (and spirited every day driving!!) wants a car manufacture to be thinking about!!! The Electronic Line-Lock keeps the front brakes locked while you ‘warm up’ the Mustang’s rear tires….come on I don’t have that in my Corvette!!! But maybe I can figure it out for my 1973 ‘Stang.
It looks something like this…exactly like this:
Here’s a great little destination (after you warmed up the tires). Located at the corner of “No Where” (Hwy 90) and “U’r Lost” (Hwy 82) is this little place called Mustang Crossing.
Great place for a 1973 Mustang photo shoot!!!
Thanks for stopping by. More coming up on #ProjectSportsRoof.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I run my car projects much like I run my IT projects. You always have to know where to start and know the end game. As with any project that isn’t being built from scratch, in other word, you have to work with what you’ve got, …
Every now and then I get to tag along with my wife as she hops around the country working on Interior Design projects for her employer Aviar Design (a commercial design firm).
This trip was to Petaluma, Ca, where beautiful farmland meets redwood forests meets the beautiful Pacific Ocean. It also the home of U.S. Coast Guard TRACEN training center and some awesome cars.
But first a shout out to the often unsung heroes – the men and women of the United States Coast Guard. They keep our coast lines and your families safe!! After nearly 35 years of being assigned to and around military installation all over the world (both Jill – ret. E8 and I -12 years- are USAF veterans) I think the Coast Guards training facility in Petaluma is one of the most beautiful anywhere. The facilities are top of the line, the installation pristine and teeming wild turkeys, deer and a host of woodland animals. We’ve enjoyed our both are trips there. The hospitality was unsurpassed. Thanks warriors!!!!!
SEMPER PARATUS
Let’s talk about cars. Although not as plentiful as you might see in Southern California (we lived there for 4 years) but they are there. We didn’t have the time for stop and photograph all we was but there are some awesome trucks (hey…it’s farm country) and a lot of hidden gems with tons of potential. After all this is where they filmed portions of the awesome car movie – American Graffiti. Just outside of Petaluma, there’s a farm with a 69-70 Mustang tucked under a cover to protect it from the marine layer as it rolls in and out of the farmland and redwoods. The hills are dotted with homes that have 1950-1970 truck parked under over or in full service.
Here are a few I was able to get a few shots of some for the unique motor cars.
Take this 1930’s Ford Hot Rod – straight out of the move American Graffiti!!!
Check out those headers!!!!
I had to get a shot of the vintage tread, redline, red steel and wiiiiiiiiiiiiide white walls!!!!
A little further up North in the Anderson Redwoods we ran into the a 9 hole golf course tucked between redwood trees..what????? Parked in the parking lot was a good example of the 1980’s Firebird TransAm
Crager SS mags, fender scopes!!!
There were a huge number of VW vans – heck it’s California after all. There are the traditional VW buses and the Westfalia van’s every where – still! Check out this drop side van.
Nicely restored!!!
Framework is there for the canvas top.
One of the coolest we notice was this work in progress.
Citroen Van
The owner has plans for the French work horse as it’s clearly under surgery. Think of the possibilities:
This is just a sampling of the car culture in Northern California. I’m hopping to make it back there with a couple of days free to just explore and peak under some of those car covers.
If it seemed to you like I was never going to get to the end of the floor pan part of #ProjectSportsRoof, you weren’t alone, it seemed that way to me as well. With power plant problems (Knock..Knock…Who’s There? It’s the bottom end of your 351 Cleveland!!!), digit maiming (Injury Time Out – 1973 Mustang SportsRoof) and life occurring in between the actually completion of the install and getting to the blogging/sharing part of this project. So here is the final two posts.
After my neighbor Dan Thomas skillfully tacked the panels in place it was time to seal the seams and give the passenger cabin floor a coating.
Here is what I used to carry out the next to last task.
The Eastwood seam sealing putty was warmed up by rolling it around in the palm of my hand and then wedged into the seams like those indicted in this pic:
If you recall we just tack welded the panel so there were a number of seams that need some putty.
I roughly sanded and vacuumed the rest of the floor and then used the truck bed liner from a rattle can and made several pass over the entire floor.
Take a look:
This was just the first coat.
This leaves the application of the heat and sound barrier and replacing the carpet to finish up the this part of the project.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. Floor pan are ready to be welded into place on the 1973 Mustang Sportsroof.
Now I’m not a welder and there was no way I was going to experiment on the Mustang. So I enlisted the assistance of my neighbor Dan Thomas. Dan is quite the artist with his welding and metal work and although this build didn’t require much fancy design work…just quality welds and Dan delivered.
The goal here is to tack the fitted metal patch panels in place. The welds need to be strong and in the proper places. Now you might say, “Hey did you say that the Mustang is a unit-body and that the floor needed to be strong since that’s what holds the car together – mostly?” Yes that is true, however this Mustang will have frame connectors added to make this reasonable.
Just a note about the welding, you have to use gas with the mig…the metal for the patch panels are not that thick and the portions of the floor you are welding it to are old…so you need the added gas.
To start with I needed to strip the tack locations down to bare metal. You can see some of that in this image.
Here a little video clip of the work. Note: Don’t adjust your device’s volume….there is no sound on the first part of the video…well there was, but it was mostly me chewing gum…not very cool to listen too.
Here is some of Dan’s most excellent work.
Thanks Dan!!!
Thanks for following along with the project. Drop me any questions, comments and/or your thoughts!!!! Coming up next is the coating of the floor and the heat and sound barrier.
Well win some and you lose some. If you’ve seen my other posts related the replacement of the points and condenser for the 351C you’ll notice that I gave conversion high marks. This was all based on the years of use I got out of the conversion I did on …
