Bill stopped by and we tweaked the timing and carb on #ProjectSportsRoof.
For the first time the stars of this blog are in the same Air Space!
Check it out!
It was a good day. The tweak smoothed out the new carb and I don’t think I ever saw Bill this happy working on BeebBeep. It must be he’s really a Ford guy at heart (Oh his daily driver – A MUSTANG!!).
I continue to chase down the fuel issues on my 73 Mustang’s 351 Cleveland.
Last time on the “Day of Discoveries” found the fuel line crushed. This is the repair video. WARNING: It is longer than normal with a few Average Guy tips. Link:
Welcome back to #ProjectSportRoof, the on going saga of my 1973 Mustang Sports Roof.
I have a lot of projects going on with ProjectSportsRoof, mainly because it NEEDS a lot work. Plus the whole COVID19 thing has parts on back order and shipping delays, blah, blah, blah!
I ordered a new fuel pump and the project shipping date was Oct 2020….canceled that order. Found one that was in stock and shipped in 3 days – DONE!
So as I wait for that important part, I figured I’d replace the front shocks, which by the way were on back order for 2 weeks. Turns out it was a good idea, as it uncovered an issue that might help solve a current problem…you’ll see!!
Now, I didn’t show you my step by step removal and installation, shocks are pretty straight forward. Here’s the video (BTW I don’t normally do a sit down chat but I did today):
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof – my 351C powered 73 Mustang Sports Roof!
I’m pressing on with tracking down the cause of the frequent stalling of the bored .040 351C.
I suspected vapor lock, but with the fuel line insulated against the heat of the manifold and block, I didn’t get the ‘boiling’ sound, that might not be the issue. But I couldn’t keep it running in idle. So the fuel press test was next. Here’s the video:
As of this afternoon, the Cleveland is having issue starting – fuel related.
The fuel pump feeding the juice to the carb is a generic stock not sure of the specs. Here is what I’m going to replace it. Oh and it is tough to find anything for 351 Cleveland on the local market. Even on-line, I was looking at out stock everywhere and ship dates of Oct 2020! Thanks Pandemic!!!
Procomp Electronics high-volume mechanical fuel pumps are designed to work with stock or mildly modified engines. They deliver free-flow outputs of 115 gph–that’s twice what a normal pump typically delivers! These pumps are plated with a bright finish for good looks and corrosion resistance. The lower housings can be rotated through 360 degrees to make fitting into tight places a snap, and they have large orifices for high flow rates. Procomp Electronics high volume mechanical fuel pumps are not compatible with methanol or alcohol fuels, and should not be used with fuel injection systems. Order the model recommended for your specific vehicle and engine size.
I’m shaking down the partial rebuild of the 1972 351 Cleveland in my 1973 Mustang dubbed, #ProjectSportsRoof (originally called SR-73, but reader keep asking me if could do MACH 4+ …yea, I didn’t think it was funny either). New cam, lifters, rods and a few other things, need to be giving a good working out. However, fuel issues have popped up.
Suspected vapor lock, but not sure, so I’m taking it one step at time. Step one insulate the gas line from the block. Here’s the video and results. I could have edited a bunch out but I wanted the viewers to see it as it happened – in this case it’s more like HEAR it. This is my way of saying the video is ….um…not great!! Watch the video and then give me your opinion on which option below you want me to try next.
Some of those options are?
1. Fuel Pressure test (because it might not be vapor lock)
2. Another option is to install an Electric Fuel Pump near the tank. This pressurizes most of the fuel in the lines. Fluid under pressure is harder to vaporize.
3. Other options include installing a Phenolic Carb Spacer and/or a Carburetor Heat Shield to keep the carburetor cool.
4. Swap from an 850CFM to 750 or 650CFM Carb (because it might not be vapor lock)
Find the comment box and let me know which one you want to see attempted or email me at AGCarrestoration@cox.net.
Vapor lock. What is it, why does it happen and how to tackle and solve the problem. We are going to do it together!
My 1973 Mustang with the newly re-constructed engine has gladly stepped up and volunteered to be our test subject. (Sarcasm or dismay? You decide!)
Where to start? Let’s go from the discovery of the problem to the possible causes to the possible solutions.
Took the gray beast out for another shake down run. I ran down the to local auto parts store, about a 3 mile drive and it was a spirited drive. I was searching for a bolt for the passenger side seat, some how misplaced the original when I was putting the new floor panels and carpet in. I was in the store for 8 minute top – they aren’t as friendly as they use to be. Use to be you would show up and chat up everyone and discuss what you were working on. These days you are lucky to find someone that knows what a bolt is. (Sorry but that’s almost true!!) As of this writing we are still in COVID19 lock down…(don’t judge me….I really needed that bolt!!!) and they were even less friendly. Sorry…I digressed. (O.K., if I was really sorry I’d go back and remove this, so lets just consider it “color” and not digression).
After 8 minutes (most of that as the clerk silently pawed through some bolts in the back), I returned to the Mustang and turned the key. It started hard – 4-5 tries. On the drive back it kept feeling like she wasn’t getting gas. Temporarily losing a bit of power. Got home lifted the hood and I could hear the gurgling in the carb.
Here are some specs on the 1972 351 Cleveland that is in my 1973 body:
351C V2
The block is bored out .o4o make it 4.040″
Crank machined .020 under.
Topped with a Edelbrock Performer intake and 1413 800 CFM 4bbl Carb.
Just replaced the cam with Comp Cam FC 268H-10 grind.
— Gross Valve Lifit .494 Intake and .494 Exhaust
— Duration .006 tappet lift 268 for both Intake and Exhaust
— Valve Timing @.006
—Intake Opent 28.0 and BTDC Closed 60.0 ABDC
— Exhaust opent 28.0 and BBDC Closed 20.0 ATDC
Installed Specs
@106.0 Intake center line
Duration @ .050 Intake 219 Exhaust 219
Lobe lift Intake .2860 and the same for Exhaust
Lobe separation 110.0
What is vapor lock?
Vapor lock causes a car to stop running when the fuel in the system overheats. It is most likely to happen when driving on hot days and in stop-and-go traffic. (It was only in the upper 80’s that day) Constant acceleration and deceleration makes your engine work harder, causing it to run hotter. (I was doing a bunch of accelerating – da!) Excess heat causes the fuel to vaporize. This keeps the fuel from reaching the engine.
Many carbureted engines have fuel pumps located near or next to the engine. (Yup!) The pump’s closeness to the engine, as with some T-types, causes the fuel in the line to become very hot. When heated, fuel turns to a vapor, like water turns to steam when boiled. This process is hastened by the vacuum created in the line as the fuel is sucked into the engine.
When the fuel turns to vapor, the fuel pump can no longer move it through the system. As a result, the fuel doesn’t get to the combustion chambers; the car runs roughly; or it dies. Meanwhile, the car will not restart or will continue to have problems if it does.
So, the main cause is over heated fuel and I’m guess hearing it boiling in the carb is clearly not a positive thing. Other cause could be:
— portions of the fuel line are to close to the engine or exhaust causing the over heating.
— to large of a carb leaving extra gas sitting in the bowls, being heated.
So, first I want check the positions of the lines. Check out the video.
There is only the one area that could be the problem and that is from the fuel pump to the carb. I pick up some Vapor Block
Fuel Line Split Sleeve by DEI. So I’m gong to wrap that area. We’ll see what happens, so check back
I’m not a “huge” numbers matching guy, but there are a few cars that I think we should always try to keep their original power plants. Corvettes are one of those cars and Mustang – mostly.
My 1984 Corvette had the much loved (by much loved, I mean hated) GM CrossFire engine (with all of it’s 205 hp). It was a huge pain. I must have rebuild those injectors 5 times in the course of my ownership but there just weren’t that many CrossFires left out there.
So Corvettes should retain there original engines and the same is true as I mentioned some Mustangs. Clearly not with my 1970 Mustang that was born with a 250, six cylinder with dealer installed under-the-dash A/C. It wasn’t going to cut it. Turn on the A/C and you had a peddle car. I didn’t stray to far, I ordered 302 long block, bored .030. I caught some flack from the local Ford 6 cylinder crew for the swap…but it might have been because I didn’t offer them the tired old 250. I donated it to young kid was learning at a local shop and needed a engine to work on. You can see a lot of those details right here on my blog. Entirely different story with #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang). It’s a 351 Cleveland and there aren’t many of those left out there. I rebuild the engine a year and 1/2 ago. Just had a lifter go rouge (with only 250 miles on the rebuilt) It now has a new comp cam lifters and rods. For less than 1/2 of all that was spend I could have dropped in 400hp Windsor crate engine, but I just couldn’t.
We love taking road trips. There’s is some beautiful country between Tucson, AZ and Silver City, NM and a lot of cars!! That is one of my favorite reasons for road tripping, grabbing pics the cars spotted along the way.
On this trip I checked in on a place we stumbled about ten years ago in Bowie, AZ.
At the very end of the video you see the current “stock pile” of cars. Now below is the same “stock pile” 10 years prior.
10 years go
10 years go
As we drove on to Silver City we can across a few backyard projects.
59-60 Chevy
Chevelle in the backyard
Dodge Swinger – bright color had to drive around to take a look.
Of course there’s the cars just sitting out in the open. Like these beauties.
Mercedes 200
Mercedes SL – soft top on, hard top hanging at the right.
I read an account, on Facebook siting TMZ as the source (yes there are 3 problem there, first it’s on Facebook, second it’s TMZ and third it’s TMZ), that the guy driving Kevin Hart’s Cuda is suing Kevin and in turn Kevin is suing SpeedKore for not having enough/proper safety equipment. Specifically, that the car didn’t have airbags or safety harnesses.
The post goes on to lament the concern that this case may lead California to require that all classic cars be outfitted with current safety equipment. Should that be the case then classic car collecting and driving would become affordable to just about everyone. Unfortunately, that might not be that much of a stretch.
This brought several thoughts to mind that I’ll share.
I’ve raced my cars, my 1970 Mustang appeared in several charity drag races. Both of my Corvettes were auto crossed informally (car club sponsored and in SCCA events. ) One of the keys is understanding the ability and power of the car and your driving ability!!!
At one event a fellow car club member had just purchased a C6 Z06 Corvette with 600 plus hp. He was a newbie when it came to Corvettes and horse power. In his first auto cross he lost control of his Corvette and drove through a fence at a well known race course/school here in Arizona. He had no idea the power of the car and turned off the traction control, something newbies should never do.
Now, I don’t know the driving experience of the guy driving Kevin’s Cuda, nor do I know what driving skills Kevin Hart has for such a powerful car, but I guessing very little for both. At least not enough to request a proper harness be installed. Of course, if you have the money, you can spend it on anything your “heart” desires, but should you? Should you by a powerful device without the proper skill set to operate it? I’ve owned and fired weapons before, I guess purchasing an armored personnel carrier with a .50 caliber M2 machine gun and a 40 mm Mk 19 automatic grenade launcher should be fine. I can drive a truck and have fired M16s….ya…I’m good.
Point is you must understand the car’s capabilities as well your skill level and respect it’s power and what that can do.
My second thought is related to regulations restricting the equipment and driving for classic cars. There is a continued eroding of protections for the hobby and the industry. With knuckleheads like Kevin and his friends we could be doomed.
There are small organizations out there lobbying to protect/preserve the rights to own, collected and drive this cars. But I fear that they are too small and under funded to mount a long term fight.
Kevin, you are very funny guy and I enjoy your shows, but this is not funny.
Now most of you know I love old abandon cars. This one is part of a display in the ghost town Pearce, AZ.
Pearce was a mining ghost town named for Cornishman James Pearce, miner and cattleman, who discovered gold nearby at what became the Commonwealth Mine in 1894. The Pearce Post Office was established on March 6, 1896. The railroad station opened in 1903. By 1919, Pearce had a population of 1,500. The town declined in the 1930s and became almost a ghost town in the late 1940s when the mine closed for the last time.
The Commonwealth Mine became one of Arizona’s major silver producers. Over 1,000,000 tons of ore were produced from 1895 to 1942. There are about 20 miles of underground workings.[11] The mine produced about $8 million worth of silver and $2.5 million in gold at a time when silver was priced around 50 cents an ounce, and gold was $20 an ounce.
They left a lot of mining equipment behind as well as this 1930’s Chevy flatbed truck. This truck my be powered by a 3.2 l straight 6 (that’s 3178 cc or 193 cu in). The bore and stroke would have been 3.31 in x 3.75 in and had 2 valves per cylinder and produced about 60 hp w/ 130 ft-lb of torque. It was topped by a 1 bb Carter Carb. All that massive power was delivered by a 3 speed transmission.
