Updates for Abandon Car Contest Submit Pic and Win a DVD.

I’m always interested in pic of abandon cars.

Next month the Ms and I will be taking a road trip through Northern AZ and New Mexico as well as  Southern Colorado and Uta.

One of my objectives is snap some pics of abandon cars as we travel around.

For fun I’m setting aside a couple of car related DVDs  for anyone that submits a picture of an abandon car, truck, motorcycle and the like.

You can email(timsweet@cox.net) the image to me, or post it on Facebook (Tim Sweet) or the Average Guy’s Car Restoration, Mods and Racing Group.

Just post your name, “general” location of the subject matter, and picture.  I’ll contact you privately to get an address for mailing the DVD.

That’s all there is  to it.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Mom & Pop Racing Teams Highlighted

This site is getting a lot of hits and as all of my readers know  it’s not a commercial enterprise..as in I don’t sell anything, nor do I have sponsors.  I do it for fun.

A few months back while I was surfing the web I ran across a web site that offered to find small “Mom & Pop” racing teams sponsors for their companies.  I read the site and I thought it was a really cool ideal.  Then I got to thinking, which is often a laborious effort, and more times than not ends in some sort of less than optimal situation, I’d like to do something like that. Small draw back…..oh you know what’s coming…..Average Guy, Average budget….hell most of the time I can afford my this hobby of mine either.  So there won’t be any cash involved. (Hear that?!?!!??!  That’s the sound of internet browsers slamming closed!!!)

Well if you are still with me, here is what I’d like to do.

I’m going to add a portion to this site called “Mom & Pop’s Racing Corner.  I’d like to feature the small racing teams from anywhere in the in the world from time to time.  What’s in it for me?  Nothing.  What’s in it for the racing team?  Some recognition outside their local areas.  Maybe you get noticed pick up a sponsor or even a couple fans!!!

So if you want to play here is what I need:

1.  Name and size of your racing team

2. Details on the vehicles you race…i.e., cars, and trucks (other types might be considers but NO…ABSOLUTELY  NO…..LAWNMOWERS!!!!..unless they are really cool) like engine, mods, horsepower, transmission, you get the idea.

3. Type of racing (oval, drags, drifting)

4. A brief paragraph (or longer if you desire) on history and resent racing results and even next event you are going to attend.

5. Include some way for a reader to contact you. (email, facebook or other social media)

6. Include some pictures. At least one of your vehicle. It would be really cool to show the drivAdd an Imageer(s), owner(s), pit crew, engine builder, stuff like that.

I’ll select one every two weeks or so, depending on the response and run the information in that corner.

It’s going to be fun to introduce these small racing teams and learn more about their cars and their type of racing.

You can drop me a comment here and I’ll get back to your or just email  me directly at timsweet@cox.net with your information.

This should be fun.

Thanks for reading

Tim

My Coupe taking of from the line. Before the new paint!!!

The New Vette & Missing the Crossfire

Before you judge me…LOOK!!!!!

2007 Corvette

Wait…LOOK AGAIN!!!!

Side view

Another View

And one more…..

The LS2

Yes the 1984 C4 Crossfire has a new home.

But  in its place is the 400 hp LS2 powered 2007 Corvette.

She has a 6 speed manual trans mission, Z51 suspension, leather and power everything, key-less entry and starting and a host of other cool stuff.  I’ll go into more detail in the next post.

I thought I’d miss the ’84 more then I do, it will be going to a good home and hopefully will stay a Crossfire.  The ’84 goes with twice as many miles on it then when I bought it, lots of new, original parts and some improved and a really awesome stereo, it’s a better car then when I got. It deserves to be a show car and not a daily driver/grocery getter/race car (drags and auto cross)/show car.  But it did them all very well, with the trophies to prove it.  It was a lot of fun and I learned a lot about that middle ground technology that was a huge advance from the older cars, a first of its kind in many ways and a stepping stone to technology that is in the replacement Vette.

I’ve heard from a lot of guys (pssstt…when I use the word “guys”  I mean all genders….just wanted to be clear ) that really miss driving their older Vettes, there’s really nothing that can capture the rawness of that kind of driving.  I’m bit luckier then those guys because I can still jump in to my ’70  Mustang (thanks to a very understanding better half) and get that feeling of old school nothing but metal and tires driving.  I think that alone makes it easier to let the ’84 go.

Thanks to the guys up at Dynamic Crossfire Solutions in Chandler, Az (http://www.crossfireinjection.net/) and all the guys in my Corvette club – Arizona Corvette Enthusiasts (ACE) http://arizonavette.net/, they helped a ton with my learning curve…HEY  GUESS WHAT GUYS….I’m going to have a bunch of new ‘stuff’ to learn.

So get ready loyal readers, (all three of you!!!!).  I’m going to take my average skills, average tools, and now below average budget and take on new technology.

But where to start????!!!!????

I’ll be back to you on that.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Corvette Consternation Part 3 Fuel Foley

Let’s recap for a minute: 

1.  Rack and pinion failure 

2.  Power steering leak 

3. Electrical system failure 

As you know the electrical system failure was the alternator and it was replaced. 

A now the story continues…… 

I picked the car up and it started fine, even had power to flip the lights up (it could do that when I dropped it off) and I drive two miles home.  It ran just horrible. No power at all.  That was worrisome. 

Now the ’84 Vette has  a very simplistic computer that controls the fuel injectors and it does take a bit after a “power outage” for it to get the mixture correct.  This should happen after a couple of miles.  Well by the time I got home there was no change in the how utterly horrible it ran.  So I took it for another spin and still no change. 

So I disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then tried it again…still the Vette could barely keep idle and giving it gas made it shake and the idle dropped to 400, 500 rpm.  So I thought ..ok..I’ll drive it to work in the morning and see if the 10 + miles will straighten it. 

Next morning, a Volkswagen bus filled with 40 people could have passed me like I was up on blocks!!!! 

Ok…at this point I’m getting a little bit…P.O.’ed…(that’s short for…oh..you know what it’s short for!!)  I call up my guys and I explain my displeasure.  My take was that they should have test driven the car and that they have had the damn (that’s short for @#$@#%%!!!!!) thing enough to know that it wasn’t running right.  I expanded on my thoughts in person when I limped the car back there after work..which was not a great day…which might have contributed to my disposition.  Sorry Sean, but you ya know noting but love…its all good dude….Sean later told me I hurt the only “feeling” he had…I told him to get over it.  They had a new guy there and he was the one that test drove it after the electrical work. 

This was the start of a 3 day, all hands on deck, WTH…(that’s short for “What The Heck” >wink?<…I didn’t want to push the envelope with the “bad words”, because I would have had to add “put the kids to bed ..I’m about to use some adult verbiage”) is wrong with this car!!! 

I’m thinking it’s still electrical, computer was F ‘ed (short for “fried”) or there was a short somewhere.  I ended up at the garage a couple of nights after work poking around a bit – Tim Sisk the guy that runs the places is good about that.  

So here is what was happened. 

 It appears that the evap system that is supposed to take the fumes from the gas tank for emissions was filling up with fuel every now and then.  This system is supposed to push the fumes through a canister filled with charcoal and remove some of the harmful particles.  Of course it doesn’t stop there the “cleaner” fumes then are pass back into the intake manifold to be “re-burned” and sent out in the world through the Vettes exhaust system.  This simple hose highway runs along the entire length of the car and isn’t designed to handle fuel.  

The end result was fuel running through the hose design for only fumes, traveled the hose highway all the way to the front of  the car,  filling the charcoal canister – which wasn’t designed to hold gasoline.  Once full the gas has not where to go but across the engine, just following Avenue Hose, and dumping fuel directly in to the intake.  That’s the cause of the poor (understatement) idling and running. The car was drowning in fuel. 

Canister - now rendered useless.

 

How does this happen? Well it occurs when too much pressure builds up in the fuel tank.  The venting of the fumes is supposed to prevent that. Once the pressure builds, which doesn’t take long with a full fuel tank, the gas has to go somewhere, so it takes a trip up the evap hose. 

Now, here is where a guy starts to wonder  WTH (short for….) am I doing with a one off car???!!!  Really the 84 Vette is a one off production year.  There were not ’83 Corvettes sold and although it has the same basic engine as the ’82 Covertte crossfires, nothing else was the same, and the ’85 Vette was an entirely different animal.  This leads to a fairly significant lack of printed knowledge on the system..this many years out.  Why do I mention this?  Because it’s tough to find the knowledge after this long and the newer repair books treat the ’84 systems as ..”oh yeah..it’s not the same as the ’85 or the “L83 (my engine) is similar.”  Gee..thanks for that.  But it is different and it’s not similar in many ways. 

Here is one.  

The fuel tank on ’85 Vette has what is called a check valve with allows vapor to travel through it, but if fluid enters it, a small ball is pushed by the denser liquid to a point where it will block the hole.  There is a diagram of that in many of the new  repair books.  But there are none for the ’84, and no, upon actually view the parts, you aren’t going to see anything that looks like the ’85 check valve. 

Ok..armed with is knowledge, I showed up at the garage and share the info.  This left us all scratching our heads.  There seemed not logical reason for pressure to build up. There is only the fuel pump down there (that we tested in a bucket of fuel and worked as it should)  there was only one other fuel delivery system was the “limp home” system which use the oil sending unit to push just enough, when the tank was low or fuel pump failed, to get you home or a repair shop. 

This lead into the third day, at which point the fuel module was removed from the tank again and it was discovered that there was indeed a check valve. 

There is a check valve built-in to the fuel module, it had a piece something (appeared to be plastic or maybe rubber) lodged in it large enough to keep the ball in a position where the it increased the pressure so much that sent it shooting fuel out up the vacuum line.  It was incorporated into the system in a way that was not conducive to separate replacement.  It was cleaned and that solved the problem..well most of it. 

The canister should be replaced find one it not easy. Right now we replaced the PVC valve with a right-angled and the canister is no longer in the flow. 

For my 84 that’s not a problem since there is no sensor that checks that and the car is running great. I’m not sure but I think she’d even pass emission, unless they were to visually see that it wasn’t connected. 

Of course I’m a big tree hugger and (you can tell because the Mustang gets 4 gallons to the mile ..hey that’s what dead dinosaurs are for!!!!) so I’ll eventual get it replaced. If I can find one.  In the mean time I’ve re-routed the  hose to protrude under neigth the engine so the fumes don’t fill the engine bay. 

Some pics: 

Hose Highway with Canister

 

End of the hose that is supposed to travel on to the Intake, now routed under the car, temporarily.

 

So there you have.  Good thing there wasn’t a car crusher in towing distance….nah…I love that car. 

Thanks for reading. 

TIm

Auto Factoids for 8/22/2010

Very like week this week. 

OH….the Corvetttes at Carlisle is a huge event going on over in Carlisle PA.  I might make it there one of these years. 

For all you caddy lovers on 8/27/1902 the Cadillac company was born.  Yup it was its own company. 

This sure isnt' what one thinks of when they think of a Cadillac

 

Oh and this was the olds from around that era: 

1897 Olds.

 

London, England had an auto (and plane) historical event this week.  Charles Rolls was born on 8/27/1877 (Rolls Royce). Beside creating the an iconic car, they did plane engines and more. 

1903 Rolls Royce

 

Thanks for reading. 

Tim

Auto Factoids for 8/8/2010

8/8/55 – test of first solar car.  William Cobb  created a prototype, but it was only a 15 inch model. Basically, an electric current was produced that in turn powered a tiny motor. The motor turned the vehicle’s driveshaft, which was connected to its rear axle by a pulley. I couldn’t find a pic of this one.  However, Alan Freeman developed the solar-powered car  in 1979 that you could actually put a human in.  Here’s the pic.  (It’s really just a bike…I think.)

Alan's Solar Car.

 

8/11/66  Chevy introduced the Camaro.  There is some discussion on whether there is such an animal as a 1966 Camaro, they  were, build in 1966 but sold in 1967.   Here a  pic.

8/15/56 Packard no longer producing cars in Detroit.  Previously the Packard company bought Studebaker and tried to keep the Packard name a live in 1957 by reworking a Studebaker and give it the Packard name.

1956Packard

 

1957 Packard...looks alot like Studebaker

8/21/1897  Oldsmobile becomes a company. Of course the company is no longer in business another icon gone.

1897 Olds

Thank’s for reading.

Tim

Wrenchin’ Tip Engine Swap 8/15/2010 Label It!

Now the Mustang is a fairly simple machine, even the electrical system is easy to work through. Pls note, I hate electrical problems and I equally dislike having to chance them down and I don’t care how simple it is.  My 84 Corvette is nothing short of a nightmare. 

Keeping this stuff straight is hard to do.  Now tearing out an engine doesn’t necessarily mean you are starting out with all new wiring, but it could.  A tip I use is to label everyone single wire with (normally) white duct tape. 

Like so: (not white duct tape!!) 

This actually reads: Starter Relay. (Yeah...spelling issues..like you haven't noticed!!!)

 

This is eXtremely handy.  For example there are no less than 18 different wires just on the driver’s door for the Corvette.  I’ve taken the door apart so many times for repair, that I started leaving them labeled. 

Of course you can use this for hoses, lines and parts. 

Thanks for reading. 

Tim

Wrenchin’ Tip Engine Swap 8/8/2010

At some point I’ve promised myself I would cover the restoration stories that center around my 1970 Mustang.  There is a lot to tell, trust me!! I’ve learned a lot!!!  

Engine - Before (250)

 

Engine After - (302)

 

But for this Wrenchin’ Tip, I’d thought I’d share a few hints that I did pick up.  Just to be fair I didn’t  do a lot of the engine swap work myself (Average Guy w/ average tool and average skills) but I learned a lot of general helpful hints and some Mustang specific helpful hints!!!  

So here are a couple of tips:  

 1.  Planning and scheduling a restoration is important.  If you are doing an engine swap or pulling it out for an overhaul make this the first step in your restoration.  Yes, I’ve seen the TV shows where they put the engine after the car is back from the body shop.  But hey this is the real world, and in this world, money is tight and body work is expensive enough not to what to afford to re-do it.  In this world, my average guy world, wrenches slip, grease stains and sometimes swinging 400 lb engine at the end of a chain can be…well…a bit dicey.  

2. Before preparing the engine for removal, you know, disconnecting all the electrical, fuel, A/C,  vacuum system, etc., take the hood off and store it someplace safe.  You’ll have a ton of room and you won’t bounce  that shiny, newly painted engine against it.  

3.   Test fit the headers before you install the engine, especially if you aren’t putting stock headers back on.  You need to check the clearances around them and ensure you can get to key components , such as starters, after the engine is completely installed.  Nothing is more insane that having to pull an engine or headers just to replace your starter. Here is a pic of my Mustang’s engine with all the attachments.  

Clearance checking pre-fit!!!

 

More engine swap tips coming up.  

Thanks for reading.  

Tim

Auto Factoid 8/8/2010

This isn’t my normal “on this date back in…” factoid.  This one is current.

8/6/2010

At the VW Automóveis Ltda. plant in Portugal today the hundred-thousandth third-generation Scirocco rolled off the production line. Since its launch in 1974, this compact sports coupe has been the most successful Volkswagen two-door with more than 800,000 sold to date. Another notable Giugiaro coupe is the breathtaking beautiful Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint.

These cars were a hot item in the use for a short while.

2010 Scirocco

 Thanks for reading

Tim