Oh yes, believe it or not, the 283 put the Corvette at the cutting edge of performance in 1957, fitted with the RamJet FI (fuel injection) system (“fuelie” was the gearhead term for that). In 1958 the 283 was the base engine for the Corvette, but the 283 that use to put on 283 hp was tuned to create an even 290 hp. If that wasn’t enough for you (of course it wasn’t enough, two words that should never be heard together ‘enough’ and ‘horsepower’…unless…the word ‘not’ precedes them). The RamJet FI was an available option RPO 579D.
Additional configurations were dual four barrel carbs that produced 270 hp, they were either Rochester or Carter AFB. The cam was changed in 1958 to give 0.398 inches of lift, improvements made to get more oil to the lifters and the exhaust manifold was reworked, called the Ram Horn’s manifold. There was a change in how the 283 was mounted. Chevy used the 3 point system with a mount on each side and one at the rear of the engine at the transmission.
Intake manifold for the 283 Double Quad
Dual Quad set up on a 283
In 1961 the FI jumped the engines’ horsepower to 315. (Hey, the base corvette in 2007 was 400 hp.) The FI wasn’t the only improvement for the 283 in 1961. It was treated with a set of solid lifter, improved heads and hydraulic cam which helped the block rich 315 hp, easily. This would be as far as the 283 would go in horsepower – in production. 1961 was also the last time the dual four barrel carbs were available as an optional configuration.
By 1962 the 283 was replaces by an entirely new engine the 327 (that’s another mini series) as the premier Chevy small block. The 283 was dropped from the a power plant for the Corvette to a base engine for Chevy’s passenger and used from 1963 to 1964. Its horsepower dropped to 170 and 195 for two configurations. A small bright was a four barrel configuration for 1965-67 that produced 220 hp. (That was the configuration of my 1966 Impala convertible.)
Of note is the use of the 283 in Chevy’s light trucks with a two barrel configuration for most of the models in 1958 to 1962. It produced only 160 horsepower. For the 1963 to 1967 light truck models the hp was increased to 175.
So far my writings are about engines have been ones I owned and the 283 was the engine in my very first car. It was a 1966 Chevy Impala. It was a gift to me for my 1976 high school graduation. The car was restored by my father, who was a master auto body man. The car was a convertible with A/C and glass rear window. It sported an automatic Powerglide transmission.
The 283 was a simple engine and of course the engine bay of the ’66 Impala could hold a family of four, with lots of room to work in there. Oh…those were the days…a piece of cardboard on the ground and 3 bolts later you’d have the starter out. I wish I could find a picture, I know there were some taken, polaroids back then, but they’ve disappeared over the years, much like the car.
So what’s the history of the 283 and what was it used in. Well those answers are coming up as well as two special uses of the 283, one in the past and one modified restro-mod use…(yeah…someone mod’ed a 283..very cool, but that is later).
As with most engines the 283 wasn’t drawn up on the design boards and produced. It was a result of Chevrolet’s desire to increase performance of a power plant they already had on the shelf. The 265 cubic inch small block underwent transformation that resulted in a new engine in 1957.
The modifications made to the 265 to create the 283 were increased bore from 3.75” to 3.875″, the main bearing was given 2.30” journals and 2.00” connecting rods. The base configuration (with a two barrel carb) for the 265 produced 165 hp, the 283 made 185. Twenty more horsepower doesn’t seem much but toss on a 4 barrel and the 283 takes off at 220 hp which tops the 265 similarly configuration producing 185-195 hp.
Chevy's 283
1957 was a good year for Chevy. Bill “Grumpy Jenkings took a 283 fitted with a dual carb set up and achieved 270 hp. It was also the first year for Chevy’s Rochester Ram Jet and what better engine to use than the new 283. This combination took the 283 in to the history books by producing horsepower that equaled the displacement – 283 c.i.d. and 283 hp.
And that is what led to the installation of the 283 in Chevy sports car platform, the Corvette.
Unfortunately I have to start the year out with a legal notice. It seems that my writings are so inspiring(…ok…stop laughing!!!) that a few sites have decided that they would use them on their sites in total, placing ads in the middle for their profit and not requesting permission.
I enjoy writing my blog and I do it to share experiences and social interaction.
If you like it, great!!
If you’d like to share links, I’m all for it
If you want to post entire articles ask permission and I’ll send you my list of requirements for accomplishing this.
If you want to use my articles and place and in the articles, we need to talk first.
As we close out the year that was 2010, I celebrate the first year anniversary of Average Guy’s Car Restoration, Mods and Racing.
Over the past year, I’ve enjoyed jotting down my thoughts and experiences. Mostly, I’ve enjoyed hearing back from readers here on my Word Press main site and in other social media.
This past year I’ve seen the page views on this “one man” blog go from just a couple per week, to nearly 1500 a month. Not bad for a non-commercial blog, with no paid advertising. So THANK YOU. I hope to hear from and read your comments and views in 2011.
What’s coming up in 2011? Mods on the ’70 Mustang, tweaking of the LS2 on the 07 Corvette and I’ll continue with the Auto Factoids in their new format. You will see more mini engine series, kicking off the New Year one of my favorites Chevy’s 283 and there will be more racing events, test ‘n’ tunes and Mom and Pop racing teams highlighted. There will be more contests and DVDs to give away and project updates from readers. Oh…I’m coming out with the Average Guy’s 2011 Calendar look for that on-line.
It’s going to be a fun new year.
To you and yours – may 2011 bringing nothing but happiness and joy.
While I’m currently working on the project plan for all the modifications, I still get the urge to spend a beautiful winter’s day doing some wrenching. Oh…here in southern Arizona you wait for winter days like today, Sunny and near 70 degrees…oh yes..perfect day for being outside and working on your projects. ( Don’t hate me ’cause I’m warm!!!)
Modifications pending, there are still little things that can be done. A few weeks ago I noticed a loose fender bolt. Now normally these bolts are screwed in to clip/slide on nuts (some times called “short nuts” but I just couldn’t put that in the title) that are slid over the edge of one of pieces you need to hold together.
Slip-on or Short Nut
So if a bolt becomes loose it is often the cause of vibration, and if left unattended you can actually loose the slip-on nut. Unless…..it doesn’t have one and a traditional nut has been used.
A while back I ordered a couple of bags of bolts and short nuts for my Mustang and today I decided to spend a few minute and replace the loose one and check the others.
What I found was a bit odd. Three of the bolts on right fender (do I have to say right “front” fender? I hear that all the time, but I grew up knowing that fenders were in the front and quarter-panels were in the rear.) did not have the short nuts, but rather the tradition bolts. I checked the left “front” (just in case) fender and found them to all have slip-on nuts.
I can understand that some where in the 41 year life span (Oh…incidentally..I’m technically the 3rd owner, with the to previous owners beginning a mother, daughter combo) of my ’70 coupe that someone took it a part, lost the slip-on nuts and yes it was just a driver car so that’s possible. However, on closer inspection I noticed that the normal slots that would allow the assembler to slide the short nut on were not there for the three bolt holes at the front of the fender (or at the front of the front fender….ok sorry, enough of that).
Square Slot that allows for the installation (Left of the bolt)
Bolt Holes without the slot.
So I wondering how much after-market parts are actually on the my Mustang. When I had the car repainted, we did discover that the right door was replaced (paint underneath was blue) so why not the fender? The options I have are to, remove the entire fender and if the holes are not blocked by aftermarket fender then I’ll have to consider using the traditional bolt and nut or I’d have to cut the slots.
Now that’s not the only aftermarket issues I discovered. Those two bags of bolts and short nuts…..yeah..they aren’t the right size. Although the are sold as “fitting 1968-1970 Mustangs” the original are 1/2 ” nuts and these are 7/16″. Well yeah..they’ll fit…heck there are all kinds down the street at ACE Hardware that will fit too!!!
As part of the mods and upgrades for my 70 Mustang, I plan on replacing all the carpet. Before I do that however, I’m going to lay down some heat and sound proofing (but that is another post).
As I start project planning, I’m looking around for parts and materials, as well as any helpful hints. (If you have any at any time, drop me a comment.) Although certain portions of the restro-mod will have to be done together, like carb and intake or heads and cam (yes I’m all four will be done at the same time), many can be accomplished separately, like adding the heat/sound proofing and the carpeting, before upholstery of the seats. In the Mustang getting the seats out are easy enough (keep in mind my goal is to not have the car tied up too long between stages) so replacing the seats after the carpet installation, isn’t a problem.
As a reminder, the mods will be done in adherence to budget, time and events. So there maybe a need to move between different phases to accommodate either 3 of those factors.
O.K., so where was I, oh yeah..carpet shopping.
As I looking on-line for the best place for ordering carpeting, began to notice a lot of choices. I start thinking “I’m going to have call up on deck my personal award-winning interior designer (that would be my wife – by profession…no not wife by profession although I’m sure thinks it’s her 3rd career, but Interior Designer by profession). Here is a little bit of what I found:
Plush Cut Pile
Ultra-Plush Cut Pile
Neon Cut Pile
100% Nylon Loop
I’m thinking, “holy cow!!!…What the heck is this?!! Ultra-Plush Cut Pile? I’m not building a ’60 Love Van!!! Oh it gets better..yeah.. you guessed it samples!!!!!
Misty Gray
BuckSkin
My favorite - Cinnabar
Oh..come on!!! Cinnabar!!!! Really!!?? Um..yup. Oh and there were many more, like Medium Gray and Silver Mist and Nutmeg and Fire Thorn!!!! I’m not kidding.
So I’m looking round to make sure know one’s looking over my shoulder (as I’m doing this over my lunch at work..on my personal smart phone…just in case “they” are reading!!!) All the time I thinking…”It’s black..all I know is that it’s black!”
Who knew that there was that much to look at? Not this Average Guy.
Luckily I found this snippet on one site and it all became clear:
Plush Cut Pile
Our nylon cut pile is constructed from 100% first quality yarn and is similar to what is found in most cars since 1974. It is tufted on a 1/8 gauge machine with 14 ounces of yarn per square yard. It is dyed using the finest dyes available and tested for ozone humidity fading & light fastness.
Ultra-Plush Cut Pile
This carpet is a super plush upgrade to our standard Cut Pile. A 100% nylon cut pile manufactured with over 40% more nylon fiber than our standard cut pile. It is dyed using the finest dyes available and tested for ozone humidity fading & light fastness.
Ok..still not sure here!!!
Neon Cut Pile
Our Neon Cut Pile colors are a great look if you want to make a statement! Although these are not stock colors, they would be appropriate for all applications. There is an additional 15% charge for all applications made with Neon Cut Pile.
What…not stock colors!!!??!!! What? Are you sure that is color
wasn’t stock? It’s Pink!!!!
And the clouds parted and it all became clear. The very last one was this:
100% Nylon Loop
A 100% nylon loop. This material is appropriate for pre-1975 applications only, and was the original type construction used in 1969-1973 Mustangs.
What you will see unfold in these updates is an exercise in project management for the modifications. When I originally scoped out the components for the 302 that replaced the 250, I used a similar process, but very detailed. I wasn’t overly concerned with improvements other than what a dropped in 302 would provide over that tired old straight 6. (Clearly..I left the 3 speed manual trans in it.)
But this time it’ll be different. There is a lot to do and unlike the previous rebuild, money will be tight and free time limited. The main goal I have is to keep the car in operation in between stages of modification. This will take a clear and well laid out plan, where issues similar to the installation of the dash pad before the pillar post trim arrived (doh!), could be more than just a cost in time.
Below is a high level sketch of what I’d like accomplish with the Mustang. I’ll update this list with more details as I figure which brands, sizes and the like that will be used. Over on my Facebook pages I have already received some feedback and suggestions and I’ll post these up here in some cleverly titled entry.
So give me your suggestions or opinions and as the progression goes even tell me if you don’t like the choice and why.
Brakes and Suspension:
– Upgrade to 4 wheel disc (Brand and size TBD)
– Replace front and rear stabilizer bars (Brand and size TBD)
– Control arms already replaced
– Rebuild power steering
– Shocks already upgraded
Exhaust:
– Add cut-out before mufflers
– Extend tailpipes to exit rear
No other changes anticipated
Interior:
– Addition of upgrade dash and interior lights
– Possible upgrade of all gauges
– Replace front seat belts with 3 point harness
– Carpet replaced
– Seats re-upholstered (upgrade to Leather/Cloth?)
– Paint lower doors
– Tilt steering wheel (Flamming River?)
Training:
Transmission
– Option 1 – Manual 4 speed with Hurts shifter
– Option 2 – T5 5 speed
– Rear Differential * Unsure if upgrade is possible or required
Engine:
* 302 stays
– Replace intake (Brand and size TBD)
– Replace 650 Holley (Holley 750 Avenger)
– Replacement of heads for more performance (undecided)
– Add custom mounting and tension for Power Steering/Alternator
– Remove Fan and replace with electric
– Add more chrome to engine (but not too much Bling..hate too much Bling)
Exterior:
Paint stays except:
– Blacked out rear light deck
– Black Hood stripe (1970 Boss 1970 302 or 1970 Mach 1) – See images below – What do you think?
– Blacked out grill
– Black Front Spoiler
– Black side Boss 302 Stripe (w/o the Boss) (dependent on hood choice)
– Magnum 500 wheels (newer version, not originals)
Hood lay outs:
Mach 1 Hood...Perhaps my favorite...currently not considering adding a scoop
Boss 302 Hood lay out
O.K., let’s hear your thoughts. They will automatically appear to the right of this posting and I’ll add the good ones in the update posts.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
Readers comments and suggestions:
Byron McElfresh December 6 at 9:09pm Report
I seen your asking for advice on heads for a 302. I built a 302 that was .040″
over bore, The larger hyd. roller ford performance cam, used edelbrock rpm
heads, i did a little clean up and evened out the valve bowls, flat top
pistons, a 750 holley Street advegner carb, rpm intake, 1 3/4″ headers, and it
made 416 hp at 6000 rpm, and 349 tq. on the dyno. in the 60 Falcon with 3.73
gears, and a 4 speed,( the guy really needs an auto trans or get a shifter that
won’t granny shift speed wise!!!) But he still ran a 12.61 at gateway.
Wow, that’s pretty good. My 302 is bore .030. Hooker headers and 65O holley. I
wasn’t planning on changing out the cam. Now the rear end great. I just can’t
do the automatic trans though!
Byron McElfreshDecember 6, 2010 at 11:43pm
Re: Hi Tim,the 302
lol-the reason I think the guy should o to an auto trans is the ultra slow
shifts he makes with the old toploader! It’s a very painfully slow 2-3
shift!!!You can almost hear the multiple double clutches! yikes! lol
Tim Sweet December 6 at 10:11pm
good point
————————————————————————
Philip Daly December 6 at 8:58pm Report
351w
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:36pm
Thanks Philip, But won’t that reduce compression? How much would you gain with
351w heads?
—————————————————-
Terry Wallace December 6 at 8:47pm Report
Ford Motorsports usually has some really great deals on 302 old school engines.
I would check there first. When it comes to flow numbers im finding through my
own testing at my machinists shop,,,,,most numbers are bullshit. beware and
test flow numbers using a reputable shop.
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:35pm
Thank Terry. I’m with you on the numbers game…happens a lot even with
Corvettes. Regards
—————————————————————–
Bill Rice December 6 at 8:46pm Report
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge heads, Great gains in HP and Torque.
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:42pm
Thanks Bill – what do you think those number might look like over a 302, bore
Corvette Hangout December 6 at 8:28pm Report
C&C aluminum heads with small chambers to get higher compression larger valves
and install 150 shot of nitros.. CorvetteHangout
Tim Sweet December 6 at 9:44pm
I can get behind the higher compression..but I haven’t decided on NOS yet.
Thanks.
_————————————————————————-
Fatherlarry Monaco
1969 and 1970 Boss 302 heards and intake will work great.
Tim Sweet That was a thought I had as well.
2 seconds ago · Like
————————————————————————
Roy Oberg Aluminum is the way to go, go with a smaller combustion chamber that will give you more compression and less chance of spark knock.
about an hour ago · LikeUnlike
#
Tim Sweet 100% on board with the smaller chambers.
2 seconds ago · Like
After much internal debate about what to do with my 70 Mustang I’ve decided on a direction for Mustang.
Running out of car projects (there was always something to ‘fix’ on the ’84 Vette). The 07 Vette is going to stay as if for a while, I like just it as it is for now. The Mustang is nearly done, with just a re-upholstery with the front seat, restoring the back of the rear seat and replacing the steering column cover and new carpeting. That’s all coming up soon. But there are a few more things that are going to happen. The time frame will be fluid given the availability of funds (Average Budget) and time.
I wrestled with keeping the car original in the beginning. But with the tired old 250 straight 6 wasn’t going to make it possible, coupled with my desire to have more horse power. I’ve often thought that the 302 swap wasn’t horrible and by keeping the 3 speed manual transmission, my changes didn’t reach the level of a resto-mod and I still think I’m good there. Keeping it period (swapping out items that were actually available for a coupe as options in 1970) I thought was noble in trying to bring it up to a level of performance I “could live with” without straying too far from its original configuration. However, I understand that a ’70 Coupe isn’t ever going to reach the value of any other ’70 model or configuration of Mustang nor will it receive a comparable level of the attention at car shows.
So I’m working out a plan for taking this under rated coup to an all new level.
Currently as configured the car has the following:
Today is the anniversary of the assembly line created by Henry Ford, did he?
Like saying night is day or Pink Floyd isn’t the greatest rock band of all time, saying Henry Ford didn’t invent the assembly line goes contrary to conventional auto wisdom. But he didn’t. It was actually Ransom E. Olds.
I love engines and the options for a 1970 Mustang – like mine, were many.
My Mustang's Enhanced 302
The sixes consisted of the 200 (120 hp) and the 250 (155hp) – mine started out as a 250
The eights consisted of 2 302 (2V and the 4V Boss), 2 351 (250 and 30o hp), 2- 428 (Cobra – 335 hp and Cobra Jet Ram-Air – 335 hp and the 429 Boss – 375 hp.
The transmission offered were – 3 speed manual Fully synchronized (currently the trans in my car), 4 speed manual sports-type w/Hurst Shifter and in the automatic the Select Shift Cruise-o-Matic Drive (more on that in another Auto Factoid.
