Tag Archives: Auto History

Building Your First Roll Cage: What You Should Know

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If you are going to race you need to be safe.  Now, I don’t have a roll cage in my cars and I do race them from time to time (on a track or SCCA – not on the street.) but I’m not going to be putting down numbers where you really need one.  But still building one is always a “safe” bet.  This build is for a C5 Corvette but the principles are the same for any car, even my Mustang.

This is from Corvettesonline.com

Andrew Wolfby on July 17, 2012

Most race cars are required to have one. Most street cars don’t. Get on your lid and you’ll wish you had one. It both keeps you safe and keeps your car stiff.

We’re of course talking about roll cages, and in this featured tech piece we’re going to take a look at the in’s and out’s of the basic roll cage, from the materials they’re constructed of, to where you can have one installed, what it will cost you, and what NHRA regulations you need to know before you chop up your prized vehicle and start bending and welding.

To really get a good understanding of the business of roll cages, who better to sit down and chat with than some of the veterans in the industry who make their living building race car chassis and chassis components? Below, you’ll hear from the likes of Chris Alston’s Chassisworks, Wild Rides Race Cars, Alston Race Cars, and Ridetech (for the street and muscle car inclined) as they share their knowledge and experiences in this pseudo beginner’s guide to roll cages.

The Basics

At the surface, a roll bar and a roll cage are designed to accomplish one very critical goal — to keep the driver safe should they be involved in an accident;  particularly a crash that involves the shiny side down. But as chassis builders found early on, there’s more function to that puzzle of bars than just safety, which we’ll get into later. As most of our readers know, a roll bar and a roll cage are not the same thing. Same purpose, different execution.

Shown here is a visual difference between your basic 4-point roll cage and an 8-point roll cage from the Chris Alston’s Chassisworks catalog. The bars shown in blue are optional.

The basic, 4-point roll bar consists of a main hoop behind the driver, two rear struts, and an optional cross brace on the main hoop should you need it or the rules require it. From there, you can go with a 6-point roll bar that includes a driver and passenger side door bar, while an 8-point setup includes a pair of rear-facing side bars for extra support of the main hoop.

Moving on to roll cages, you first get into the 8-point roll cage, which includes a main hoop, cage sides that route along the A-pillar, a windshield brace across the forward section of the roof, a back brace bar, roll cage gussets, and subframe struts. A 10-point cage includes rear struts and commonly an X-bar through those rear struts for torsional support.

Once you go beyond the basics, you start getting into 12-point and 14-point cages and on into full tube chassis cars with Funny Car cages that fall under the SFI 25.X certifications. Today, however, we’re going to focus on your first roll cage — the basics.

NHRA Regulations You Should Know

So even though the rules say you don’t have to run it, we really suggest you put at least an 8-point in any car that’s going to be raced. – Jim Wright

The National Hot Rod Association, the premier governing body in the sport of drag racing, outlines a number of requirements for roll bars and roll cages for racers competing at sanctioned tracks and events the world over, based on elapsed time and, in some cases, on speed.

Vehicles running 11.00 to 11.49 in the 1/4-mile or 7.00 to 7.35 in the 1/8-mile (including those with T-tops), convertibles running 11.00 to 13.49 (7.00 to 8.25), and dune-buggy-type vehicles running 12.00 and slower are required to have a roll bar installed in the vehicle.

Stepping up the performance ladder, a roll cage is mandatory for any vehicle running 10.99 (6.99) or quicker or exceeding 135 mph. In any full-bodied vehicle however that maintains an unaltered firewall, floor, and body running between 10.00 and 10.99 (6.40 and 6.99) a roll bar is permitted in place of a roll cage.

In these two photos, you can see the comparison between a frame and unibody car. On the left is a unibody car with the NHRA mandated 6 x 6 x .125

Despite the regulations, nothing says you can’t overdo your setup and run a full 12- or 14-point cage on a 12-second car. Fact is, you can never be too safe. “Our philosophy has always been that in the case of a rollover, the roll cage that protects the top of the windshield is much stronger and provides a lot more protection,” explains Jim Wright of Chris Alston’s Chassisworks. “So even though the rules say you don’t have to run it, we really suggest you put at least an 8-point in any car that’s going to be raced.”

If you’re working with a car with an OEM frame, the roll bar/cage must be attached to the frame, while in unibody cars (which make up most late model cars), a 6-inch square steel plate measuring 1/8-inch thick must be welded to the floor as a base for each bar that makes its point of contact inside the car. Bolted-in bars require a pair of 6-inch steel plates — one underneath and one above, with four 3/8-inch bolts through the rocker sill to hold the two plates together.

Digging into materials, all tubing has to measure 1-3/4-inch outer diameter, with mild steel .118-inch thickness and chromoly .083-inch. Swing-out side bars, popular for many cars that will be driven on the street and climbed in and out of, are permitted on cars running 8.50 and slower, with a number of caveats in terms of the clevis, bolts/pins, and more.

The NHRA, in conjunction with the SFI Foundation, has put in place mandates for welding processes that must be used on both mild steel and chromoly. As well, plating and grinding of the welds is expressly prohibited.

All roll bars/cages constructed of 4130 chromoly tubing must be welded using an approve TIG heliarc process, while mild steel must be done with an approved MIG wire feed or TIG heliarc process. Grinding and plating of the welds is prohibited, so keep these points in mind if you’re a do-it-yourselfer.

The 2012 NHRA Rulebook has 12 pages in the General Regulations section that pertain to frame requirements, which is far more than we could ever outline here in detail. If you’re considering building a roll bar/cage yourself, we’d suggest if you’re not already an NHRA member, to either get yourself signed up or pick up a copy of the NHRA Rulebook, which is available for $10 from the NHRA Store online.

Moly Versus Mild

Your choice of material for a roll bar/cage comes down to one of two options: mild steel or chromoly. Each one, when built within the specifications of the NHRA rulebook, offers the same amount of strength and protection. What it really boils down to then is a tradeoff between cost and speed. How fast do you want to go?


The Weight Debate
By nature and pound for pound, chromoly is a stronger material than mild steel, and that allows for chromoly to be a thinner wall tubing (.083″ compared to .113″). This gives chromoly a distinct advantage in terms of weight, but that advantage comes at a cost that customers must weigh (no pun intended) before they build.

Mild steel is far less expensive than chromoly, but comes with the disadvantage of more weight. For the grass roots racer on a budget that we’re targeting here, that cost versus weight decision can be a big one.

“The only reason to use chromoly is if you’re building something that the class requires it or if weight is a real big factor, because it will be lighter,” explains Wright. “Technically they’re the same strength, and chromoly is an upgraded material that will certainly save you some weight, but 99-percent of people buy the mild steel because of the price.”

For comparisons sake, using a 12-point roll cage from Chassisworks as an example, the mild steel version will tip the scales about 50-60 pounds heavier than the chromoly, according to Wright, but is nearly double the price.

As pointed out above in the NHRA regulations, the minimum wall thickness on mild steel is more than that of chromoly to achieve the same result, and that is because, by nature, chromoly offers more strength pound-for-pound, so to speak.

“Some people say ‘well chromoly is stronger’, and it is stronger on its own, if you took equal tubing of the same wall thickness and tested them side-by-side, but they’re allowing you to run a thinner wall thickness with chromoly to save some weight and still equal the same structure, strength-wise,” explains Gene Giroud of Wild Rides Race Cars.

Two Birds With One Stone

The primary means of a roll bar or cage is to protect the driver, but barring such an incident, those bars will serve a daily purpose of stiffening the entire vehicle up and creating less body roll and twist. Each bar added to a roll cage adds another dimension of structural support and rigidity. For example, the X-brace shown here is not only stronger than the straight rear struts, but also provides added torsional strength to the car. The downside, however, is that the X-bar essentially eliminates your back seat.

The benefit of a roll cage is really two-fold. It’s designed to protect you first and foremost, but the every day bonus to the existence of a roll cage is improved stiffness of the vehicle, and that’s a big plus for drag racers planting the tires to the ground.

“On the surface, the primary purpose of a roll cage is crash protection, but in reality, you only use the cage in that context one time,” explains Bret Voelkel of RideTech. “But every time you start the car and drive it, the roll cage offers a lot of structural and torsional strength, and that gets applied every time you use the car.”

On the surface, the primary purpose of a roll cage is crash protection, but in reality, you only use the cage in that context one time. – Bret Voelkel

Adding more bars to a roll bar/cage not only adds to the structural integrity from a safety standpoint, but each additional bars presents more rigidity to the chassis.

“The more points you put in the car, the stiffer the platform of the car is going to be. And if you put an “X” in it for example, that’s going to make it even stronger,” says Mike Ruth of Alston Race Cars. “And the more horsepower and torque you have, and the better ‘bite’ the car gets, the more it’s going to try twisting on the launch, so more bars you add the more rigid the chassis will be.” By maintaining that stiffness within the body and chassis, the shock and suspension tuning adjustments that you make will deliver results you can truly see.

Buying A Cage For The Street Versus The Strip

Something to keep in mind when you’re in the market for a roll cage is the fact that what’s designed to save your life in a dedicated race car isn’t necessarily optimum for a car that spends all or most of its life on the street. Most chassis builder, including those we spoke with in this article, generally build their roll bars/cages to NHRA specifications regardless, but these chassis builder also know there are safety discrepancies between a street and a race car.

What’s designed to keep you safe on the track can be your worst enemy on the street. Imagine getting broadsided and striking the cage seen here without a helmet on. For this reason, many chassis builders will shy a customer away from a full roll cage if the primary use of the vehicle is street driving.

Said Giroud, “The roll cage that’s designed to save your life on the track is meant for an environment where you’re using proper safety gear — a helmet, harnesses, and everything else. You don’t want to put a person in unsafe situation by putting too many bars in it, because it presents what I would consider a more unsafe situation than too few bars on a race car. You don’t want to put a bar by the drivers head and then they get broadsided and hit their head on that bar and not have a helmet on. What’s there to save your life at the track can be your worst enemy on the street.” There’s no specific rule of thumb for track versus street split time, but if you’re doing a considerable amount of street driving, a roll bar might be your best, and safest, bet.

This Ain’t The Zoo’s Tiger Cage

Though not currently NHRA legal, RideTech offers a bolt-in, stainless steel roll cage known as the Tiger Cage that’s easy to install and form-fits a number of specific and popular early and late model muscle cars. Shown here is the complete Tiger Cage system, with a seat brace bar and door bars.

For the muscle car crowd amongst us or for those looking for affordable and easy-to-install alternatives to the weld-in roll cage, the folks at RideTech offer their Tiger Cage stainless steel roll cage system. These bolt-in cages are pre-engineered and designed for specific makes and models, with patented clamp collar components that tie the cage to the structure of the car for safety and rigidity. And the best part is, you can install these at home in 4-6 hours using just three simple tools found in any basic toolbox. “The Tiger Cage is basically a modular, bolt-in, stainless roll cage system for muscle cars,” says Voelkel.

Here, you can see the clamping system used to hold the Tiger Cage together. Although geared toward the muscle car and street crowd, this kit is in fact NHRA-legal for cars running 10.99 and slower.

“We used stainless for a number of reasons,” continued Voelkel. “Beyond the aesthetic benefits of it, you don’t have to paint it or worry about scratching the paint. The stainless that we used actually has a higher tensile strength than mild steel and approaches that of chromoly.”

The Tiger Cage is sold in modules, beginning with a base 4-point roll bar containing a main hoop and  two rear struts that will allow you to retain the back seat. Additions that include a door bar that are situated down low on the door can also be added for more structural support. Tiger Cage’s are currently available for 2005 and later Mustangs, ’67-69, ’70-73, and ’74-81 Camaros, as well as ’64-67 and ’68-72 GM A-Bodies and ’68-74 Novas.

How Do You Find A Good, Quality Chassis Shop?

The world wide web and magazines are your friend. Publications like National Dragster feature extensive ads for chassis builders and chassis manufacturers, and the use of web search engines like Google and Bing will turn up plenty of builders in your area.

But chances are you don’t buy many things without trying them out first, or at the very least, finding out everything you can about the product beforehand. And the same applies to a roll bar/cage. So, if you really want to find a good, quality chassis man in your area, the best thing you can do is to visit the local track, take a look at some of the cars, and ask questions.

Here, you can see a number of different roll cages installed in a variety of cars out of the Alston Race Cars shop. In addition to complete in-house chassis service, Alston also sells complete roll cage kits that are ready to notch and weld.

“Without a doubt, going to the track and talking to people and asking who did their chassis or cage is the best way to go about it,” says Giroud. “If you see something you like, you can ask who did it, and how their experience was. Word of mouth is the best way.” After you’ve talked to the racers and asked the questions you’d like to ask, a visit to the chassis shop will often give you tell-tale signs of the service you’ll get.

“I always tell customers to come to our shop, and then visit some others, and make a mental note of the cars that are in their shops, and then go back three weeks later and see how much work has been done to those cars. If they’re covered in dust and in the same condition as the last time, chances are your car is going to sit a while,” says Ruth.

Manufacturers like Chassisworks, which make and sell components but don’t construct/install them, do have networks of chassis shops that use their products around the country, and in the example of Chassisworks, Wright relayed to us that they can generally find a customer a shop within 100 miles of their location. But again, the rule applies that asking questions at the track is always best case. With decreased racing budgets and an influx of tools commonly used by chassis shops more readily available these days, many racers today are taking on the project themselves in their own garages in increasing numbers.

With easy and affordable access to tools used by chassis builders these days, more and more people are going the DIY route for installation of their roll cages. Alston Race Cars’ Mike Ruth cited a $49 tubing notcher available at Harbor Freight as a prime example of a tool plenty capable of doing the job at home.

According to Ruth, the DIY route has become more popular for entry-level customers looking for a roll bar/cage. “Our pre-bent roll cages come with great instructions, and it’s really not that difficult to install a roll cage,” says Ruth. “The average guy that’s out there hot rodding has used carpenter tools and knows what a level and all that is. You can buy a very inexpensive tubing notcher that hooks to a drill press and after a few cuts, you could make a cut as good as anybody.”

What Should You Pay?

The cost to have a roll bar/cage varies widely from region to region, and a lot depends on which shop you have it done at. A one-man band that does chassis work in his sop on the side may be much cheaper than a full-time shop with dedicated welders and fabricators, with overhead costs and insurance. But don’t be fooled by presentation, as there are countless part-time chassis guys out there that do exceptional craftsmanship.

As Wild Rides Race Cars’ Gene Giroud stated, I always tell people to keep in mind they’re not buying tires here, so don’t go price shopping.” The craftsmanship and level of service you’ll recieve will always play a pivotal role in how much you’ll pay for a roll cage, and as always, keep in mind that you do in fact get what you pay for. Seen here is a roll bar with a swing-out drivers door bar in a ’55 Chevy out of the Alston Race Cars shop.

Like anything else, you get what you pay for in a roll bar/cage. Go to the track, check out the quality of the work you see, and compare prices amongst those shops. The ones that charge more may not always deliver the better product, and vice versa, the cheap shops aren’t necessarily rolling shoddy jobs out, either.

“I always tell people to keep in mind they’re not buying tires here, so don’t go price shopping,” says Giroud. “You don’t get the same product from everyone.”

Whether you’re on the hunt for a quality chassis shop to install your roll cage or you’re diving into the project yourself, the best thing you can do for yourself is take the time to do your homework. Consider how you’ll use the vehicle, both now and several years down the road. Weigh the cost versus weight debate, and decide what meets your needs. Again, the primary goal here should be keeping you safe regardless of your driving habits, and remember, you can never be too safe.

Rotary Engine Part 1

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Rotary engines have always been a mystery to me.  Never understood them, no clue on how they worked.  Here is a great little vid on how it works.

Thanks for reading

Tim

FEATURE: 1978 VW Bus

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This from Classic Recollections (http://classicrecollections.com/2012/07/16/feature-1978-vw-bus/).

I’ve never owned but  I have a brother-in-law who has restored a few – they weren’t show quality like this one but they were in fact fully functional.    Although WV buses required “frequent” attention, the repairs aren’t difficult, but I’m not sure the fun outweighed the trouble.

This 1978 VW Bus has undergone a 10 year restoration.

The first question most people are dying to ask when they spy Jack Connelly pull up in his 1978 VW Bus is, “Do you go camping in it?”

Jack Connolly has imparted his love of VWs to his kids: Anna and Jack Jr.

Who can blame them? For decades, these uber-functional hauling machines were the vehicles of choice for motorists who desired to get up close to the picturesque outdoors.

With their squared styling, compact rear-engine design and over-the-wheels driving position, these microbuses have interior space in overabundance. Add to this the Volkswagen camper model’s pop-up roof, and occupants are able to fully stand up.

**Want to know how Jack restored this roomy rolling classic? Head over to our full feature on the Daily Herald HERE**

________________________________________________________________________________________This 1978 VW Bus has been restored over a period of 10 years.This 1978 VW Bus was restored over 10 years.

This 1978 VW Bus has been restored over a period of 10 years.

Opening the side sliding door reveals the spacious interior that can accommodate all sorts of cargo.

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Engine Line Up – 1966 AMC

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Often over looked is the first year AMC products.  AMC invested approximately 300 million dollars in  advanced engine designs, bodies and plant facilities as it prepared for the move from Nash Rambler hold over to AMC proper.

Of course the company was formed from Nash Rambler (AMC Rambler) in 1958 and eventually just American  Motors Corp.  So 1966 found a fair amount of “redesign” going on.   The available models for that year were:

Rambler American Rouge Series 01 (4dr w/V8)

Rambler Classic 770 Series 10 (2dr conv w/V8)  (4dr station wagon w/6cyl)

Rambler Rebel  Series (2dr w/V8)

Marlin Series 50 (2dr w/6 or V8) (My favorite besides the Javelin)

I love these cars. The two-tone paint is great. I love the yellow and black, blue and black and the silver and black combo.

Ambassador 990  Series 80 (4dr w/V8)

Rambler Ambassador 990  Series 80 (2d conv w/V8)

1966 Rambler Ambassador 990 Convertible

Rambler Ambassador DPL Series 80 (2dr w/V8)

Gone from the engine line up is the 196.5 6 cylinder overhead valve engine.  It was replaced with the 198.8 In Line Six. It was a cast iron block with overhead valves and a bore and stroke of 3.57 x 4.00 inches.  It displaced 198.8 cubic inches with a compression ratio of 85:1 and mustered up 128 hp. It was topped with a 1bbl Holley carb.  This was the base engine and all of the models could have been optioned with it.  But that wasn’t the only 6 banger the American 232 cid with produced 155 hp which sported a 2bbl Holley carb.

On the V8 side of things there was the 287 cid.  It was a cast iron block with overhead valves with a bore and stroke of 3.75 x 3.25 which produced a compression ratio of 8.7:1.  Topped with a 2bbl Holley (model 2209-2699) it made 198 hp.  The other option was the 327 cid that put out 270 hp and carried a 4bbl Holley on top.

New for that year was the 290 V8 (4.8L) it had a bore and stroke of 3.75 x 3.28  and with an iron block and overhead valves which produced 200 hp with a 2bbl plopped on top for 225 with a 4bbl carb.  Snap up the car with an original 290, only 623 of these engine were place in the 1966 models (all may the “American” models vs the “Classic” (those should have 287 instead).

The 290 used sparingly in the 1966 models.

The 327 was available in 1966. It was 5.4 liters with cast iron block.  The bore was increased over the 287 (they were similar set up) and it had hydraulic lifters.

The AMC 327 was similar to the 287, but displaced 327 cu in (5.4 L) due to the bore increase to 4.0 inches (102 mm). Unlike the 250, the 327 was available with hydraulic valve lifters.  The bore and stroke was 4.0 x 3.25  and topped with 2bbl carb it produced 250 hp.  Put the 4bbl option and you push it up to 270 hp.

I really these early AMC.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

CRUISE NIGHT: Downtown Barrington, Illinois

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Downtown Barrington, Illinois's classic car cruise has been taking place for 9 years.Tucked away in the Northwest suburbs of Chicago is the quaint town of Barrington and every summer Thursday night, the classic cars come rolling in for the village’s weekly cruise. With its tranquil, tree-lined setting, easily accessible boutique shops and casual dining, this event is one draws automotive enthusiasts from all over.

Anne Garrett helps to oversee the downtown Barrington, Illinois classic car cruise night.

Anne Garrett

Anne Garrett serves as the Manager for Special Events and Marketing for the Village of Barrington and described to us how the cruise came to be.

“This year is our 9th year for the cruise, which got started in 2003. At the time, the village had been looking for ways to draw traffic and attention to the downtown area and knew a classic car cruise would be just perfect. Other neighboring suburbs had something similar so we did some research and determined we had what it would take to run a successful event. We settled on the South Cook street area and in all the years its been running, haven’t changed a thing.”

Anne informed us two village staff members and several members of the The Barrington Police will typically bring out a few vehicles to the classic car cruise.public works, as well as local law enforcement, are required to run the event.

“The Barrington Police will attend but it’s more of a public safety presence and a chance to interact with the local community.”

In addition, they also typically bring out vehicles from their fleet and allow spectators to get up close and personal with their high-tech cruisers. Volunteers from the Barrington Lions Club also help with the event.

Classic cars parked in downtown Barrington, Illinois for the classic car cruise. 2012“Four years ago we were approached by the group who offered their assistance. Every year since we’ve had 4 or 5 faithful volunteers help man the barricades and allow the cars to come in and out.”

Judging by the jammed lots, full of classic and custom cars, and the multitudes of owners and spectators milling about, it’s safe to assume the cruise has been a huge hit with the community.

“So far, the response has been tremendous. It seems every week people genuinely look forward to the event. They’re able to come early and go to the Farmer’s Market and then wander around the lots, checking out the cool classic cars. We rotate the onsite food venders and always have different entertainment so no two weeks are exactly the same.”

Classic cars parked in downton Barrington at the cruise. 2012

Expect the lot to be filled during the warm, cruising months.

The local businesses have taken notice of the increased foot traffic. Classic cars parked in downtown Barrington, Illinois for the classic car cruise. 2012

“We’re having more and more of our downtown merchants stay open late, which gives spectators many options for additional shopping and dining activities when they’re done seeing the cars. It really adds to the overall community feeling of the event and makes it a wonderful place to spend the evening.”

If you plan on attending the Barrington cruise and want to bring a four-wheeled relic, you’d better get there early.

“Our official start time is 6:30pm but the car owners will arrive and start cuing up around 4:30pm. Many of them want to make sure they get their ‘special spot’. Generally our end time is right at dusk, as the car owners don’t like driving home in the dark with their headlights on. We’ve been told they don’t like to run the risk of attracting bugs and having to put in the extra time cleaning them off.”

Classic cars parked at the 2012 downtown Barrington, Illinois classic car cruise.Each night throughout the summer has a theme, highlighting a certain brand, style or type of classic machine. While all are welcome, the themed vehicles are given special attention. Here is the schedule for the rest of the season:

July 19: 70’s Night
July 26: “Orphan” Cars
August 2: Mopar
August 9: Convertible
August 16: Sports & British Cars
August 23: Corvette
August 30: Trucks/ 4×4

** Want to know what events are taking place near you? Check out our Cruise Calender **

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At the downtown Barrington cruise, you’ll see everything from an ultra-modern Fisker Karma to all your favorite vintage Detroit muscle machines.

Classic cars parked at the 2012 downtown Barrington, Illinois classic car cruise.

**All photos and content by Classic Recollections and may not be used without permission. 2012 © **

Classic cars parked at the 2012 downtown Barrington, Illinois classic car cruise.

Classic cars parked at the 2012 downtown Barrington, Illinois classic car cruise.

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Classic cars parked at the 2012 downtown Barrington, Illinois classic car cruise.

Classic cars parked in downton Barrington at the cruise. 2012__________________________________________________________________________________

**All photos and content by Classic Recollections and may not be used without permission. 2012 © **

Steve’s C4 Update

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I've been fiddling a bit with the Vette.  I have a few projects to do now that I've become a lot more familiar with the car in the last two and a half months.

Although the car sounds cool, the cheap aftermarket mufflers are completely rusted inside.  The baffles are all loose with lots of holes.  On the outside they look new.  They are the source of most of the rattles.

The lumbar supports on the sport seats don't work.  I can't hear the pumps run so inspecting electrics first on those.

Rear speaker amps are toast.  Expensive so it's not high on the list.

Steve’s 1990 C4

Tranny service due.  No biggie and not expensive.

PRNDL lights are out.  Not bad considering it's 22 years old and all other lights work.  I was amazed at the sheer number of lights inside.  Courtesy lights and mood lighting.  The interior alone must have 15 individual lights.

Drivers side headlight motor needs to be repaired.  It works most of the time. LOL.

It's a pretty short list considering the age.

It pretty much sits in the garage.  We are in the 100's (110 today) this week so it's morning and evening use.  The ac does not work but it still has the factory seals on the service ports so I'm hoping for good news there.  We do have R12 available here.  I unbolted the roof when I got it and it hasn't been back on since.  I always wanted a convertible and the coupe is a good compromise.

The most annoying thing about the car is the static electricity. It doesn't shock me or anything but dust sticks to it like glue and the California duster only moves it from place to place.  I never thought about a "plastic" body in that way.  The duster works just fine on my steel cars.

Dodging Bankruptcy and the Crusher

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Dodging Bankruptcy and the Crusher.

Joe Greeves – July 05, 2012 10:00 AM

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(Editor’s note: Shortly after this article was written and printed in Auto Enthusiast (July issue), John Guarnieri was killed in a traffic accident en route to a show with his Dodge in tow. Our sympathies are extended to the friends and family in the loss and it was our privilege to share John’s car and passion with our readers).

Financial bailouts of automobile companies have been in the news but shoring up the auto industry is not something limited to recent times.

This beautiful 1955 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer is proof that sometimes the infusion of extra cash can produce striking results. Almost driven to bankruptcy because of poor sales in 1953 and 1954, Chrysler was saved from collapse by a $250 million loan from Prudential and the talents of automotive designer Virgil Exner. In 1955, a beautiful collection of cars across the board became the result that put Chrysler solidly back into the Big Three.

The redesigned 1955 Dodge emerged from the makeover as a truly representative car of the ’50s. Positioned between Plymouth andDe Soto in the Chrysler lineup, the Dodge sported a six-volt electrical system, kingpin/leaf spring suspension, and 15-inch wheels. Six adults could ride in comfort and the trunk could hold their luggage.

Over-engineered with 20-quart cooling systems and six-quart oil capacities (sixes as well as V-8s) the engines ran on low octane gas and were trouble free. They were good looking cars then and still are today.

Enter John Guarnieri, a retired police officer and lifelong Mopar enthusiast living in St. Augustine, Florida. John is an active member of the Ancient City Auto Club and has owned 64 vehicles over the years. His involvement with this beautiful example began moments before it was headed to the crusher!

In February 2004, he and a friend were on a parts run when they drove past a junkyard in Lake City, South Carolina, surprised to see a distinctive tri-colored Dodge being pushed inside the fence. Except for rusted floorboards from a failed heater core, the car was complete and the body was pristine. A six-volt battery and a gallon of fresh gas brought the 270 Hemi V-8 to life, convincing John that the car had potential.

He learned that the car had been carefully stored for more than 25 years by the grandfather and his son, but the grandson got involved with drugs and never paid the storage fees. Knowing that the Custom Royal Lancer was the flagship car of the Dodge line, John stepped up like Prudential a half century before, intent on saving the car. He wrote a check for the storage fee, paid for a South Carolina title, and took the car home. As an unexpected bonus, the dealer threw in a second ’55 Dodge as a parts car. In all, John acquired five parts cars during the almost four year restoration.

After trailering the car back to St. Augustine, John’s first step was to get the brakes working properly and exercising the engine. Several trips up and down the highway and two oil changes later, the engine stopped spewing black smoke, a sign that it was time for the full restoration to begin.

Recalling the process with a smile, John says, “It only took two days to tear the car apart and 3½ years to put it back together!” The five parts cars and new old stock items located on eBay gave John everything he needed to complete the project. He accomplished much of the work himself, overhauling the engine on his own and rebuilding the transmission with help from Danny Novello at American Transmission in St. Augustine.

John also redid the brake system, refurbished the gas tank, added a new YnZ wiring harness, and located five Goodyear 7.10 x 15 tires with 2¾ inch whitewalls. The correct combination of Jacquard fabric and Cordagrain vinyl was sourced in Canada and installed by Old City Upholstery in St. Augustine. Several other local experts added their talents, like Tony Puleo at A&R Auto Electrics, along with staff members Jimmy and Charlie, who handled the rebuild of the car’s electrical components.

Boyd’s Glass located and installed new tinted glass and Rick’s Mufflers fabricated the new exhaust system. Tony Castellano polished the stainless steel and Space Coast Plating of Melbourne, Florida, did the chrome. John’s good friend, Hamlet Smith from Palm Coast, Florida, helped in reassembling the car and John’s wife Lynda hand-painted the hubcap spinners, gauges and related pieces.

The refurbished 270 Super Red Ram V-8 came equipped with Hemi heads and a two-barrel carb, producing 183hp. A rare Power Pack option was available from the factory that added a four-barrel Carter carb and dual exhausts, good for an additional 10hp. John’s car is equipped with a two-speed PowerFlite transmission, complete with a unique dash-mounted shift lever. (Those famous Chrysler pushbuttons appeared the following year.) Chrome trim separated the colors on the door panels. Gauges span the width of the dash and on John’s car. The eight-tube pushbutton radio has an optional rear speaker.

Unique colors were part of the mid-’50s experience and Dodge certainly brightened the landscape, taking 13 basic colors and expanding the choices with 16 two-tone combinations. Newly introduced in 1955 were 16 more three-tone combinations. If 45 choices still weren’t enough for you, upper colors, insert colors, and lower colors could be switched, providing a staggering 76-choice color palette. John’s colors of Regal Burgundy Metallic, white, and black were colors that often appeared in Dodge brochures, making them a sought after combination. Handling the spray gun, Billy Walters from Jacksonville, Florida, shot the chassis and accomplished the unique tri-color paint job.

Saved from bankruptcy by Prudential and the crusher by Guarnieri, the Dodge justified their faith beginning in December 2008 when the car was presented to the judges. The hard work and long hours were rewarded with a Junior Award at AACA’s ’08 Winter Meet in Lakeland, Florida. The Senior Award followed at the 2009 AACA Spring Meet in Charlotte, North Carolina.

The following year, John trailered the car to New Bern, North Carolina where it won again, taking home an AACA Grand National Award. John hopes the car will obtain its Senior Grand National Award at the 2012 Grand National Meet in Shelbyville, Tennessee.

When that happens, it will be a genuinely happy ending for an almost bankrupt car once headed to the crusher.

DREAM GARAGE: Classic Car Barn

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Seriously!!!!!! Some Stable!!!

Some of the cool items in this classic car dream garage.Some of the cool items in this classic car dream garage.

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Chuck has customs, trucks and of course, muscle cars in his collection.

This dream garage houses not only classic muscle cars but also real show horses.

Automotive enthusiasts love to measure their beloved four-wheeled machines’ capabilities by using the term “horsepower.” Chuck Barnes owns a stable-full of true classic muscle — real horsepower — in his modern horse barn.

A few years back, this Barrington resident built a free-standing barn to house not only his family’s show horses, but also his personal vehicles, each packing enough stallions under the hood to intimidate even the brawniest of V-8s.

While Barnes sees beauty in his collection, the “huge eyesore” of a horse barn initially caused some friction between he and his wife.

“She used to be able to have a wonderful view from our kitchen of the animals grazing in the pasture,” Barnes said.

Despite the earlier conflict, Dawn Barnes has grown accustomed to the structure and even enjoys it now. “It’s true he blocked my view, but I’m over it. It’s such a wonderful place to have parties in,” Dawn said. “In addition to hosting a wedding in the barn, I’ve even had my own ‘women’s parties’ where I just invited my female friends to hang out.”

To be fair, Chuck did try to avoid obscuring the tranquil vista; he first added to the home garage, expanding it from two cars to accommodate four.

“It just wasn’t quite enough,” Chuck said. That’s when he began construction on the satellite structure, drawing on personal experience for inspiration. “In the ’50s, my dad owned a speed shop called Belmont Automotive in Palatine. As a kid I used to go hang out there all the time and would see some really neat cars.”

That passion manifested itself in the cool space Chuck spends most of his time in now. “All the memorabilia is stuff I’ve accumulated over the years. Even with millions of dollars, you can’t recreate this. Nothing here is bought out of a catalog. They’re real pieces — even the moose head!”

In addition to car parts, hand-painted signs and neon lights, the custom centerpiece is a wood-paneled bar that a cabinetmaker friend assembled. “We told him we wanted something as cool as the cars, so he made the countertop one large glass shadow box, illuminated by LED lighting.” The couple constantly changes the display, ensuring guests will see something new.

The entire building has air conditioning to keep things comfortable during the summer months and a special warming element for the bone-chilling Midwest winters: radiant in-floor heat. ”You can walk in here in February with bare feet and be nice and toasty,’ Chuck said. “In addition to efficiency, it also keeps moisture down and doesn’t kick up dust or dirt.”

Naturally, visitors don’t come just to see the fascinating décor, but also the rolling iron parked inside. One such creation is a 430-horsepower 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle, packing a full emission-compliant LS E-Rod crate motor.

“It has full catalytic converters and passes the very strict California emissions test that will be mandated for all cars in 2014,” he said.

Other interesting pieces are a 1960 Buick Electra 225; a mint, 11,000-mile one-owner 1978 Ford F250 High Boy; and a project 1957 Chevrolet Nomad that came from Australia.

“I’m going to add an air-ride suspension and a fuel-injected big block. It’ll be a high-end car that can be driven anywhere.”

Another ongoing build is a 1964 Chevrolet Impala, being built as a tribute to Chuck’s father. “It’ll be a period-correct superstock race car that will be raced in nostalgic events,” he said.

While this equine palace is packed, Chuck is already planning for future expansions to his stable of steeds. So the next time you hear a classic collector talking about his impressive horsepower numbers, ask him if he’s got it both under his hood, and under his roof.

Automotive enthusiasts love to measure their beloved four-wheeled machines’ capabilities by using the term “horsepower.” Chuck Barnes owns a stable-full of true classic muscle — real horsepower — in his modern horse barn.

A few years back, this Barrington resident built a free-standing barn to house not only his family’s show horses, but also his personal vehicles, each packing enough stallions under the hood to intimidate even the brawniest of V-8s.

While Barnes sees beauty in his collection, the “huge eyesore” of a horse barn initially caused some friction between he and his wife.

“She used to be able to have a wonderful view from our kitchen of the animals grazing in the pasture,” Barnes said.

Despite the earlier conflict, Dawn Barnes has grown accustomed to the structure and even enjoys it now. “It’s true he blocked my view, but I’m over it. It’s such a wonderful place to have parties in,” Dawn said. “In addition to hosting a wedding in the barn, I’ve even had my own ‘women’s parties’ where I just invited my female friends to hang out.”

To be fair, Chuck did try to avoid obscuring the tranquil vista; he first added to the home garage, expanding it from two cars to accommodate four.

“It just wasn’t quite enough,” Chuck said. That’s when he began construction on the satellite structure, drawing on personal experience for inspiration. “In the ’50s, my dad owned a speed shop called Belmont Automotive in Palatine. As a kid I used to go hang out there all the time and would see some really neat cars.”

That passion manifested itself in the cool space Chuck spends most of his time in now. “All the memorabilia is stuff I’ve accumulated over the years. Even with millions of dollars, you can’t recreate this. Nothing here is bought out of a catalog. They’re real pieces — even the moose head!”

In addition to car parts, hand-painted signs and neon lights, the custom centerpiece is a wood-paneled bar that a cabinetmaker friend assembled. “We told him we wanted something as cool as the cars, so he made the countertop one large glass shadow box, illuminated by LED lighting.” The couple constantly changes the display, ensuring guests will see something new.

The entire building has air conditioning to keep things comfortable during the summer months and a special warming element for the bone-chilling Midwest winters: radiant in-floor heat. ”You can walk in here in February with bare feet and be nice and toasty,’ Chuck said. “In addition to efficiency, it also keeps moisture down and doesn’t kick up dust or dirt.”

Naturally, visitors don’t come just to see the fascinating décor, but also the rolling iron parked inside. One such creation is a 430-horsepower 1970 Chevrolet Chevelle, packing a full emission-compliant LS E-Rod crate motor.

“It has full catalytic converters and passes the very strict California emissions test that will be mandated for all cars in 2014,” he said.

Other interesting pieces are a 1960 Buick Electra 225; a mint, 11,000-mile one-owner 1978 Ford F250 High Boy; and a project 1957 Chevrolet Nomad that came from Australia.

“I’m going to add an air-ride suspension and a fuel-injected big block. It’ll be a high-end car that can be driven anywhere.”

Another ongoing build is a 1964 Chevrolet Impala, being built as a tribute to Chuck’s father. “It’ll be a period-correct superstock race car that will be raced in nostalgic events,” he said.

While this equine palace is packed, Chuck is already planning for future expansions to his stable of steeds. So the next time you hear a classic collector talking about his impressive horsepower numbers, ask him if he’s got it both under his hood, and under his roof.

Engine Line Up for 1946 Chrylser

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Now 1946 generally wasn’t that exciting as far as new car models.  The war just ended and the many of the car manufacturers were recovering from the wartime conversion, they had a lot of Uncle Sam’s money, but no much time to make “new” tooling for creating new sheet metal.  So many of the cars were just spruced up.  Chrysler was not different.

Their main offerings was the Royal series, Windsor series, the Saratoga series and the New Yorker series.  The Royal cam in 3, 6 and 8 passenger and a Limo!!!  The Windsor came in 3, 6, 8 passengers and the Town and  Country  tossed in there was a 2 door convertible.   The Saratoga came in 3 and 6 passenger and the New Yorker came in 3 and 6 passenger and the Town and Country 4 door and 2 door convertible.

1946 Convertible

46 Royal

There engines were basically 6 cylinder and 8.

The Royal and Windsor engines was an L6.  It had a cast iron block with a bore and stroke of 3.438 x 4.5.  It displaced 250.6 cubic inches and had a compression of 6.6:1 (not huge when the shipping weight was 3,000 plus).  It was able to produce 114 hp and sported four main bearings, solid lifters.  It was topped with either the Fluid Drive (B-B VE1 – Ev2) or Vacumatic (E7L4) carb.

The Saratoga and New Yorker had an L8.  This engine too, had the cast iron block, but displaced 323.5 cubic inches and sported a bore of 3.25 and a stroke of 4.875 inches producing 6.7:1 compression.  With the 5 main bearings, solid lifters and topped with B-B E7A1 carb could produce 135 hp.

L8 Engine (49 but still the same engine)

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim