Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m about the finish the cuts and fitting for the right rear foot-well that was rust all the way!!!!
Final Fit for foot-well.
This video is pretty comprehensive so I’m just going to just let it roll.
A couple of things worth noting. The “flap” what was clearly not going to work and leaving the sheet metal running up the side of the transmission/drive shaft tunnel was going to give too much flex in that panel, as the welds would be pretty high. It’s important to have that solid because as most must guys and gals know the Mustang of this vintage only have sub-frames which lease the floor as the most important body stabilization part of the car. I will eventually put sub-frame connectors under this beast.
In case you are wondering what that electrical wiring is to the right of foot-well that is for the seat belt switch which when pressure is applied to the seat bottom there must be a connection completed by the seat-belt male end and female end to turn off the “Seat Belt” light and or buzzer.
I have a lot more coming up on the floor pans so stay tuned!!!!
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. We beginning the actual work on the vacuum system on the projects 351C starting with the valve assembly distributor ( the …
I know, I’m getting slow at getting these posted for the 1973 Mustang, but here is the next part. I’m beginning the cuts on the repop floor panels.
Like I mention in the video, I”m doing this all in my driveway and garage – it can be done!!!! Unlike my 1970 Mustang (which started out in better shape) which most of the work on the body was complete, thanks in part to a careless young driver plowing into the back it at a stop light, in a body shop. While it was there I had the entire car painted.
I’m using a dremel to make the necessary cuts and the Work-Mate table allows a lot of angles to clamp down the sheet metal while I am cutting it. The painter’s blue tape works great as marking off the cuts and you don’t have to be ‘too’ precise, but you have to be close!!!
Here you can see the first cut. Now eventually I realized that I didn’t really need the ‘flap’ and I cut it off.
The ‘humps’ are actually where the seats bolt down and you have to keep clear of those with your sheet metal and welds.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. ….. You can see my 2007 C6 and the 1973 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof) and my son’s 1991 Chrysler Le Baron vert and …
Feb 6, 2016 … #ProjectSportsRoof Floor Pan Rust Removal Video 2 – Duration: 2:07. Tim Sweet No views. New. 2:07. 1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 for sale with …
It’s not often that the normal day in the life of a Director of IT includes an opportunity to drive a 1929 Detroit Electric. But this is exactly what one of my days included just this week.
The car has taken years to restore and is period correct in almost every aspect. As you can see in the video it might need a few tweaks and I am finishing up the clock for the interior.
The Detroit Electric Model 97 (1931); Electric cars represented a significant part of the automobile market in the earliest days. As today, electrics suffered from a …
I haven’t done a Engine Mini-Series in sometime, I find readers like the Engine Line Up posts a lot, so I’ve stuck with that. They are quick and fun pieces to research and write.
SEE A NOTED DEVIATION IN THE COMMENTS BELOW.
I received a request from a reader (motown_missile) from the /r/classiccar subdirectory over on Reddit, who read my latest Engine Line UP post, for something on Ford small block V8’s specifically the 221, 260 and 289 engines. So I thought yeah that’s a great idea!!! But it didn’t really fit how I structure the Engine Line Up posts and then I recalled doing these mini-series and that fits the request. Thanks motown_missile!!!!
Now the Ford small block V8 label (also called the “90 Degree V8s”) covers a few rare engines (limited production/limited use), one of the most iconic and some real workhorses. The engines that fall under this designation are 221, 255, 260, 289 and yes the 302 and even the 351 Windsor (not the Cleveland). I’ll cover each one in separate posts.
The Ford small blocks were designed the end of the 1950’s put in to production cars in 1962 the first and smallest (20 inches across and only 475 lbs) and it displaced 221 cubic inches and so designated as the 221.
The 221, in 1962, had a compression ratio of 8.7:1 with a bore and stroke respectively of 3.50 x 2.87. It sported two-bolt main-bearing, cast nodular crankshaft (only 37 lbs), cast aluminum pistons, hydraulic camshaft and individually mounted iron rockers. The cylinder heads were wedge-shaped and the intake valves were 1.59 in. and the exhaust valves were 1.39 This was all topped off with a cast iron two barrel intake manifold and it produced about 143 hp @ 4,500 rmp and 217 foot lbs of torque @ 2200 rpm. For 1963 it remained about the same with a slight increase in the bore and stroke (3.75×3.30 inches) producing a compression ratio of 8.8:1 and 145 hp. Both years were topped with Holley carbs.
The 221 is one of the rarest small block. It saw only 2 years of production use (1962 and 1963) and you could find it in the Ford Fairlanes and Mercury Meteor. If you want to know if your 62-63 Fairlane or Mete0r originally had a 221 check the VIN for the code L ( C – 1962 export or 3 for 1963 export).
Nicely painted 221 V8
1962 Mercury Meteor 33
1963 Ford Fairlane
Next up will be the 255.
Thanks for reading and if you have any input or pic of your own 221, drop me a note a AGCarRestoration@cox.net. Comments always welcome!!!
Hey, welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang). We are working through the rusted floor pans and I’m about to make the cut for removing rust from the right rear foot-well.
Quick note about the video sequence. As executive director, camera guy (well smart phone guy) and film editor (is that still a real thing?), I don’t always plan out the steps like you might see on a TV show. (There goes my chances of being on Counting Cars – I’ve got a better chance of being a walk-on-the-set zombie on the Walking Dead – I love both of those shows!!!! ) Perfect example is in the next few posts and videos. Instead of stripping out all the carpeting, I made a cut along the tunnel on the right side and just removed that carpet. You can clearly see that. Then I removed the rust from the foot-well (you’ll see that below) and then worked on cutting the re-pop floor patch.
That went so well, I felt confident enough to remove the driver’s seat and the rest of the carpeting. So when I show that video you’ll notice both patch panels on the right side are fitted. There just no ‘do overs’ on this project.
Here are the next two videos. By the way you can see all the videos on my YouTube channel just search for #ProjectSportsRoof and you’ll find most of them.
Once again in the video I mention getting the replacement pan for under the rear seat – above the muffler. However, as I mentioned previously that portion of the floor is not reproduced.
More floor panel work coming up. If you have comments or tips/hints use the comment box below. Love to hear from you.
Thanks for check in on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you remember a of couple months back, shortly after bringing the ’73 Mustang home, I conducted a compression test on all the cylinders. The 351C was running rough (to put it mildly) and smoked like a pile of tires on fire (only the smoke …
You just have to read the entire article and then seem my comments.
I make no judgement (like some of the other commenters) on whether Aaron is a “real car guy”, in fact I’m sure he is a ‘car guy’ – just one of ‘THOSE’ car guys. (If you are a real car guy you’ll know what I mean).
Courtesy of BMW By Aaron Miller @aaron_m_miller
I’m going to take a lot of heat for what I’m about to say. While no manufacturer can expressly admit it, behind closed doors, deep within the bunkers in Detroit, Munich, Stuttgart, and Tokyo, most engineers will nod in agreement. With enough soul searching, quite a few of my fellow automotive writers will find themselves agreeing, too. The visceral allure of the manual transmission as we know and love it isn’t….
There’s not a huge fan club for the 1947 Chrylsers. They were huge cars weighing well over 3,000 lbs, 18ft long and room for the whole family. With names like Town & Country, New Yorker, Windsor, Saratoga – these car did demand respect.
1947 Town and Country – that sub-model name was used a lot by Chrysler
You’d think they’d have huge engines to push these around town but the engine line up for 1947 consisted of only 2, one 6 cylinder and one 8 cylinder.
The 6 cylinder was called the Royal/Windsor engine. It was an L head, cast iron hunk of metal. With a bore and stroke of 3.438 ” x 4.50 “, five main bearings, solid lifter it displaced 250.6 cubic inches. With the compression ratio at 6.6:1 (rather low) and topped with various carbs (B-B EV1 or Ev2 or E7L4 – for the fluid drive and B-BEx-1, EX3 or Ex2 for the manual shift) it managed to put out 114 HP’s.
Flat Head L6 Chrysler engine – powered some of these giants.
The 8 cylinder was labeled Saratoga/New Yorker. It was a flat headed iron blocked L8. The bore was smaller than the 6 cylinder @ 3.25″ and the stroke was slightly higher @ 4.875 (nearly 1/2 an inch higher), creating compression ratio of 6.7:1 and displacing 323.5 cid. It had solid lifters and five main bearings and took in air though a B-B E7A1 carb. This all produced horse power of about 135 @ 3400 RPMSs
1947 Chrysler Saratoga/New Yorker L8 engine
I really enjoy doing Engine Line Up series of blog post. Hopefully you do too!!!!
I love writing Engine Line Up pieces. I learn a lot doing the research. Back in 1946 there wasn’t a lot of imagination when it came to naming cars. Packard either named their cars after the engines that powered them or their engines after their car models plus the cylinder count. …
1949 was the first year after World War II where Chevrolet did a complete maker-over of its offerings, meager in terms of variations as compared to what they would become in the next decade. With only the Special Series 1500 GJ, Deluxe Series GK, each with a Fleetline and Styleline …
Think there was much of a choice of engines back in 1956? Well there were a few for the 1956 Hudson. As was custom back in the 40’s and 50’s, the engines were often named similar to the model of the car they powered. For the 1956 Hudson, the company had …
Ok…how many of you stopped to Google Griffith? Not a commonly mentioned classic car, right? Well the Griffith was developed by a Ford dealer, Jeff Griffith. It was a tubular frame with a British TVR body bolted on. He produce the cars in that configuration, until the source of the TVR bodies …
Is anyone tired of Hybrids? Part car, part generator. and I think it’s a cop-out for not being able to produce an affordable, long distance electric car (not include Tesla.)
But maybe the Cadillac CT6 Hybrid will change your mind or not.
The GM boast that the car produced 449 ponies at the rear wheel. That produced by the 2.0 liter turbocharged 4 cylinder and two electric motors. This will push the car from 0 to 60 in 5.6 seconds. If that’s a the good news here’s the worse – only 37 miles on a full charge – DUDES – why bother?!?!?!?!?! They are calling it a (Chevy) Volt (might be because it shares parts with the Volt) on steroids!!! Really? Well, it’ll have comfy seats, I bet!!!!
Underwhelmed? Sure, if it looks just like this 2016
Powered Up.
Toyota used the ‘Scion’ name like software developers the word ‘beta’ – not really ready for prime time. (I still hate the fact the Celica disappeared into that mess.) Frankly nothing much was worth buying under the Scion name until they produced the FR-S in 2011. The car was based on the previous 8-6 (86) concept and was a joint effort between Toyota and Subaru. Toyota was moved the 86 platform back under the Toyota brand and will be giving it a new look. Questions is will is cousin the BRZ get a new look? No one knows yet.
New 86?
Enter stage right – the Elio P5, the new U.S. Car company. With it’s all powerful 60-hp 0.9-liter 3-cylinder front-mounted engine that can lay down 55 ft lb of torque, reach a top speed of over 100 mph and can get from 0 to 60 mph under 10 seconds. Get all this for under $7K.
Kaiser-Fraser formed July 26, 1945 – The Kaiser-Frazer Corporation was the result of a partnership between automobile executive Joseph W. Frazer and business man Henry J. Kaiser. In 1947, the company acquired the automotive assets of Graham-Paige. Interesting enough, Kaiser had no automotive business experience. In 1953 the company became …
Here is your #AutoFactoids and Car News Now for this first full week of September 2015. Auto Factoids Sept. 7, 1954 – Production of Ford Thunderbird begins 1955 T-Bird 2002 Thunderbird Sept. 8, 1903 Preston Tucker was born in Capac, MI. While dubbed “Tucker Torpedo” during production no ‘Torpedoes’ were produced. Beautiful …
Sometimes the Automotive Journalism world is so off track – pun intended – that they cross the line where “reporting” becomes “tabloid babble”. Take the headline “MUSTANG BEATS CORVETTE!!!” “America Meet Your New Sports-Car King”. That is quite a statement gracing the cover of the Feb 2016 issue of Car and …
The last three post we basically a run down of the extent of the rust damage in the floor pan areas on #ProjectSportsRoof. As you saw the right side was bad, especially the under the rear seat on that side and the left side not as bad. Interesting enough it ended up being about the same work for both foot wells and a lot work for the whole under the rear seat. (You’ll notice in at least one of the videos I mentioned that all I needed to do was to buy the panel for under the rear seat – but I was wrong. Those just are reproduced. What I ended up doing was purchasing a 3rd foot well pan and “modifying” that to get the whole patched.)
As this is my first time actually doing floor pans, I did a lot of “making sure” up front work to limited the size of the mistakes I might make. Last thing I needed to do was cut in the wrong place or make the opening to big. As you know the Mustangs of that era only had sub-frames and the floor for the most part were what held them together. A major screw up there and you’ve weakened the structure and then it’s body off complete floor replacement – NOT IN THE BUDGET!!!
Here’s some of the preliminary work.
So of course there isn’t a rear panel (see above) and the drain in the panel is not plugged with a rubber stopper, but with a metal screw down plate – sealed with seam sealer.
I worked the left side first (some I could keep the car mobile – for pulling in and out of the garage) so I left the driver’s seat and most of the carpet in place.
Coming up is the first cuts of the right side floor pan and fitting of the replacement panel.
