When I began the restoration of my ’70 Mustang I knew that I wanted to replace the 250 straight six, with 175k miles on it, soon. I had several option, buy a new engine, buying rebuild or buying used. I chose to buy a re-manufactured long block and add my own components.
The option of buying a used engine and rebuilding myself wasn’t an option (average guy, average space and average tools) but I would have enjoyed it.
If you are going to purchase a used engine, dragging out of a junk can save you even more. But you’ve got to check it out before getting it home.
Here are a few tips that you can follow help prevent getting something home that the only real use it can server is to fill a corner the garage.
Now you aren’t going to be able to tear the engine down right there and look over all the parts but you could do the following checks.
1. If the engine still has the spark plugs, pull them a look them over. If they appear to have oil on them you might be looking at ring or value job being necessary (you might want to do that anyway). Likewise if they have water on them you may be looking at a head gasket problems or worse.
Fouled plugs
2. Most likely you are going to be able to pull the heads but you can remove the value covers. Look at for large mounts of sludge build up. That indicates other issues as well.
Sludge Build up
3. If you can drop the oil pan, check the contents for water or coolant contamination. You can also inspect the oil pump. Issues there indicate that there may be damage to pistons and crankshaft.
Oil Pan Gunk
Currently I’m looking for a used manual 4 speed for my ’70 Mustang. Now I don’t have any tips for that yet but I’ll let you know.
This was too good to just pass up and too much to just repeat here. That’s coming up next for my ’70.
So from http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/09/t5swap/index.php, here is some very good information on upgrading your Mustang’s (Ford’s) transmission.
Overdrive transmissions are a great thing. They enable you to significantly improve the gearing and acceleration of your car, while maintaining gas mileage and highway cruisability. Unfortunately overdrives, manual or automatic, weren’t offered in Ford vehicles until the late 70’s. But that doesn’t mean you have to be stuck with the non-overdrive C4’s. C6’s, and manual 4 speeds of the 60’s. Swapping in a late-model overdrive transmission, namely the T5 manual and the AOD automatic, is a straighforward swap for 289, 302, 351 equipped cars. In fact on most early Fords, the swap is so easy it makes you wonder if Ford was thinking ahead. In this article we’ll go over what it takes to swap in a T5 tranmisssion into an early Ford. In future articles we’re go over an AOD swap for early Fords, and also an AOD to T5 swap for late-model Mustangs.
Slight clearancing of the shifter opening in early may be required. We had to do it on our ’67 Mustang, but in a ’65 the T5 lined up perfectly.
Swapping into early Mustangs, Falcons, Mavericks, and Pintos is easy because the hole in the transmision tunnel for the shifter is in about the same spot on all the cars. The swap is also easy for Fox body cars such as the Granada.
For other Fords, namely the full-sized cars, the swap is a bit more difficult because the engine is placed farther forward in relation to the driver. Ford
used modified shifters and/or longer tailhousings to set the shifter back for the original transmissions in these cars. Unfortunately there is no such modification we know of for T5’s.
If your car is currently equipped with a non-overdrive manual transmission (Ford 3spd, 4spd, or Toploader) the swap is as simple as a clutch job, you can use your existing clutch and flywheel, but you’ll need a crossmember and possibly a slip yoke and driveshaft as mentioned below. For cars with automatics you’ll need to first install a clutch pedal and round up the clutch activation parts (either manual clutch linkage or a cable operated clutch.)
We’ve seen the T5 in several Falcons and Comets originally equipped with column shifters. The owner had to punch a hole in the transmission tunnel and fabricate a longer shifter and/or replace the bench seats with bucket seats. Most Ford cars sold with automatic transmissions have factory stamped holes in the firewall for the clutch pushrod or cable. Usually a hard tap from a mallet will knock the stamp out.
For Bronco and Ranger owners, jamesduff.com sells adapters to bolt the T5 to 2.9L and 4.0L engines.
Toploader and T5 dimensions
Transmission
A
B
C
D
F
Ford Toploader (small block)
6.375
13.25
25.375
n/a
5.5
Ford T5
6.9
14.5
24.7
15.4
5.5
Overal length (A+C)
Toploader: 31.75 in.
T5: 31.6 in.
Where to find a T5? The T5 transmission is a manual five-speed transmission manufactured for Ford, by Borg Warner (now Tremec.) The T5 was offered in Mustangs, Thunderbirds, Capris, and possibly other Ford vehicls from 1983 all the way up to 1996, but you have to be careful -there are different specifications for 4-cylinder, 6-cylinder, and V8 cars. What you want is a T5 from a V8 car, ideally a Mustang. The 1983-1989 V8 T5’s are rated at 265 lb.ft. of torque, while the 90-93 T5’s are rated good to 300lb.ft of torque (93 Mustang Cobra T5 is rated for 310 lb.ft.) The difference is in the internal components and also the gearing. See the chart below for gearing differences. The 1994-1995 T5’s are not desirable because the input shaft length and thus bellhousing depth were changed to accomodate the new SN95 Mustang body style. If you do come across one of these dirt cheap the input shaft can be replaced with one from an earlier T5, but it’d have to be a really good deal (read free) to go through the trouble. Finally, we should mention that the T5 is also called the “World Class T5”, but many people incorrectly believe the term World Class refers to a stronger type of T5. All Borg Warner T5’s are considered “World Class”, so don’t rely on that term to indicate the type of T5 you have. The best bet is to find the T5 attached to the car, or with reliable evidence of the car it came out of. If that fails, look for the stamped aluminum tag hanging of one of the tail shaft bolts and use the ID chart to identify the model. Copy the numbers down and call D&D or Hanlon and beg them to tell you what year it’s out of.
While it is best to shoot for the 90-93 T5 due to its increase torque capacity, you shouldn’t pass up a good 83-89 T5, espeically if you’re engine is not heavily modified. We’ve found that T5 strength and longevity is more a factor of its condition and mileage rather than it’s torque rating. A used, high mileage, Cobra T5 will probably shift poorly and give out much sooner than a earlier T5 that came out of grandma’s car. The T5 in Project 11.99 was bought from a wrecked 1990 Mustang 5.0 with 50,000 miles. We’ve had it in the car for nearly five years now, over 400 passes at the strip, and it shifts as crisp as it did on day one.
By the way, always take the bellhousing and block plate if they are available. The T5 swap can be done two ways, using a T5 bellhousing or using an early Ford manual bellhousing. It is much easier and cheaper to use the T5 bell, we’ll explain why below.
What to pay?
Used T5’s can be bought for as cheap as $100 out of a wrecking yard, however we rarely ever see Mustang 5.0’s in public wrecking yards, most of the cars go to specialty dismantelers. You’re better off searching the classifieds and online Ford bulletin boards for guys parting out their Mustang, or perhaps upgrading to stronger transmission wanting to sell the T5 cheap. A fair price for a used, but not abused, less than 80K T5, is between $300 and $500. Any more than that and you should consider buying a rebuilt/refurbished T5 for around $700 from places like D&D or Hanlon. If you want to be extra safe you can buy the T5 new. Both the above sources, as well as Ford Racing Parts and Summit Racing, sell brand new T5 “Z” spec transmissions. The Z spec. transmisison is rated for 330 lb.ft. and sells for around $1300.
As with every car show there are some very good paint jobs. There are the cars that have a traditionally paint with flawless surfaces and deep ” you could shave in them” in them shine.
Then there are unique paint schemes, ghost flames or custom air brushed images.
Here are a few from a recent car show I attended.
Check out this custom Ford pick up.
Two Tone Black and Yellow...that's not all
Check out the bed!!!!
That is some great air brushing!!!
Check out this VW Bus.
Front view
Side View
And for really interesting paint jobs. Stop by the Bike section of the show.
Ghost Rider Bike
Even if you don’t like the paint you’ve got to appreciated the effort that goes into the work. Nothing but pure art.
Got a kool paint job on your ride? Drop me a pick.
A few big ones this week.
11/15/1977 – Ford sell its 100 millionth CAR. What was the car? A Mustang? One of the legendary F150s? Nope it was a 1978 Ford Fairmont Futura (the triple F).
Ford Fairmont Futura (The Triple F) Although some owners had an additional F to add.
The guy that started Honda Soichiro Honda was born 11/17/1906 in Japan.
11/18/1940 Buick produced it 4 millionth car.
http://ucapusa.com/heritage_buick.htm
1940 Buick Super Coupe
One day and 19 years later (11/19/1959) Ford stopped the production of the ugliest cars you’d love to own the “Edsel”.
I love going to car shows. I recently attended one of Tucson, AZ largest car shows called “Cops and Rodders” (for my 3rd year). It is huge by our standards, over 500 cars, trucks, military vehicles, emergency response vehicles and a lot more. Entering my cars is a lot of fun and getting to talk about them we complete strangers, often having nothing in common with you except that love of cars, is a great way to spend a day.
Besides having conversations with anyone that stops by, I enjoy wandering around the shows. There aren’t too many cars that don’t interest me. Oh I don’t really care for the tricked out PT Cruiser with the giant stereo or limo-Hummers (or any other SUV in that configuration), but there’s something about most cars I can find to like.
One of my favorite, all time favorite thing are the painted dash boards of the 60’s and earlier cars. The lines are clean, the surface is smooth and rather than dull down the interior it makes bright and colorful and the contract between the paint, the chrome that normally accompanies them and the gauges just stand out that much more.
Take this 1960’s Impala. It’s bright and clean. Not the dull, padded dashes of today’s cars. Yes..I get the safety aspects and that’s a good thing, but come on, look at this and say you don’t like it…I bet you can’t.
1960 Impala
It's a thing of beauty!!!!
Got a painted dash? Send me a pic and I’ll post it up.
I’m going to ruin the ending, but I did end up with a quality install on my wife’s Lexus with quality glass.
Thanks reading.
Tim…………………Ok…just kidding.
The ordeal continued when I told the shoddy installer that I didn’t want them to return and remove the fun house mirror from the font of the Lexus. This prompted several calls back to my insurance company. For about two hours I telephonically (that might not be a word!!!) climbed the corporate ladder until I got to the “Head of Corporate Glass” (that was the exact title…).
The individual I spoke to, listened to my story, including the intentional installation of faulty mirror support, and assured me the concern would be taken seriously. That part went well and the next part was even better, but first have to set it up a bit.
It seems that when the previous windshield was installed I was authorized the original glass because the car was under 3 years old. That was their policy. However, since the car was over 3 years old this time, they would not authorize the original glass, unless…I paid a difference of $800.00. (More on the price of glass in a bit later.)
So I was surprise when the ‘Head of Corporate Glass’ (I hear this in a booming God-like voice, like when God spoke to Charlton Heston in the famous movie “Mose and the 10 Commandments”) say, “We’ll wave the $800.00 and authorize you original glass.” I won…I won…I beat the evil insurance company!!!…Oh hold the proverbial horses…the round-up wasn’t exactly over.
She next told me I had to have the same installer put in this ‘quality glass’. Oh…the horses have stopped. I did not agree and she insisted, stating that because of the warranty they (the insurance company) had with Mr. Shoddy Glass Inc. it was required to have them re-install the new piece. I said that I should have the right to have anyone put it in and that whatever agreement they (the insurance company) had with them (Mr. Shoddy Glass Inc.) wasn’t my problem. I also mentioned again their total disregard for the safety and quality which should concern them (the insurance company….ok…do I have to keep lawyer-ing up here?….actually I just want to see how annoying I could be!!!…I sure someone will let me know.) and they would have paid a lot more if the swinging mirror resulted in an accident. She still insisted and I asked to be moved up a rung in the corporate ladder and she said there wasn’t a next rung. I said no again and she said ok. Ok…let the horses go because this was a complete victory!!!! Score a point for the down trodden masses!!!!
Almost…..it took nearly 3 weeks to get the new glass. The first company I selected said they couldn’t order the windshield. I said, sure you can. A few day later, they said we can’t find the glass to order. I called the dealership and got the part number and even how long it would take to get in (two days). I gave the installer the information. One week later still no windshield. I called the installer back and found that they called the insurance company and someone a bit lower than ‘Head of Corporate Glass’ unauthorized original glass.
So another call to ‘Head of Corporate Glass’ . I wasn’t able to talk to HER (get it..all caps???) but the lady I did talk to found the note from HER and said sure, no problem. I said “Hold your horses, missy”. And with that we telephonically (it’ll be a real word when I done with this article!!!) found the guy that “de-authorized” my original glass and while we are all conference together, had him talk to a 3rd installer and tell them I was authorized… with everybody on the line as witnesses. Ok…party hat time and no can’t you get back time it took you to read this!!!!
There was one more interesting revelation when I compared the prices of the glass provided by Mr. Shoddy installer, my insurance company preferred vendor, paid for the glass and what Mr. Speedy (yup that’s what Mr. We Know What We Are Doing installer is officially known as) paid for original. I know why Mr. Shoddy was preferred. See below:
Mr. Speedy – $1350 for original Glass
Mr. Shoddy – $252 for OME glass (There was no extra charge the fun house entertainment.)
Windshields are important. Quality glass is the key and proper installation is a must.
I’ve had at lot of windshields replaced, in my ’70 Mustang, the ’84 Vette I use to own (never thought I’d be saying that) and just about any my wife and I have owned.
With all that new glass came a wide range quality glass and the service. I can sum most of it up in on word, shoddy!!!
It is hard to find someone to do the older cars properly and we’ve even had really horrible installation service. Let me share some problems and a few things to do when you are dealing with what should be a non-eventful event.
The problems we’ve in countered in the first round were shoddy installation and glass that when you looked through it, you got the impression you were in a mobile carnival fun house. This was a replacement of a windshield for our Nissan Maxima we owned a few years ago. Not only was the glass distorted, but the when the installation was done, there was glass everywhere and there was a strange whistle. Recalled the installers and they came back and replaced the glass a second time. The second windshield fix was merely a repair not a replacement. This where they fill the chip or small crack. This was so horrible done, that the windshield wiper would skip when it hit the spot that was repaired.
Next up was a replacement for the ’84 Vette. After going through problems with the Maxima, I decided to check out the glass before it installed. The windshield that was brought was fun house quality again. I sent it back and did a little research and then had them order Pilkington glass. This was much better quality, but during the installation the failed to have the proper weather-stripping. Once that was found, it was installed. During the installation the installers broke off the plastic connectors for the windshield washer line, which they promised to replace, but never did. Oh and the windshield leaked. So I replaced the windshield washer line connector and re-accomplished the weather striping.
Next up was the Mustang. On the way home from a car show a rock flew from the rear tire of the car in front cracked the windshield. Well I learned enough that I wasn’t going to let just anyone put the class in. I researched and found the proper quality glass and ordered it from a Mustang parts supply house. I had in shipped to a body shop with guys I knew, why? Because the clips that hold the glass in and the clips that hold the chrome molding were not something you want a the run of the mill glass installer do. Plus I could help put it in. This was a very successful install.
Recently my wife’s Lexus picked up a pretty good crack. This would be the second windshield in 14 months for the this car. After the lessons from above we called the dealership and found they had a recommended installer. Now….here’s where the insurance company comes into play. Every insurance company has “preferred” installers, but they can’t necessarily dictate where you get the car fixed. We won that one. Additionally my insurance company will authorize original factory class when the cars is under 3 years old. Another win!!!! Oh..don’t worry, the next install balanced out the good fortune of the first.
Three months ago a rock again introduced it’s self to the Lexus’ windshield. But this time the car was deemed “too old” (just over 3 years old) by our insurance company for original factory glass. We were only authorized to put in OEM. Ok there is where a little clarification is necessary.
Now folks will debate me and that’s fine, but the definitions I’m about to share, are from years of ordering and buying parts and that includes glass. I know they will debate, because I just had a round with the glass company for Lexus, and the installer and my insurance company. All insisted that OEM is original equipment
OEM is not original equipment, it stands for Original Equipment Manufacturing. It means the parts (or glass) is NOT manufactured by the car manufacturer, but by a company that is in some manner authorized or approved. There is a difference and in most cases that is quality. This isn’t a mystery to the car companies that is why they don’t authorize these manufacturers to use their logo.
Lexus logo.
Ok..off the soapbox, on to the issues with the glass replacement for the Lexus.
First the company came and replaced the glass at my office (yes..I had to leave the Vette at home…..I’m ok…now..though!!!). Nice enough guy, but three hours later I took the car out to lunch. The rear view mirror, which on the Lexus has all sorts of stuff on it, temp, compass, auto dim, garage door opener and it even turns on your lights in your house is mounted in on the glass. Which means that it had to be re-installed with the new windshield. Half way to my destination, in heavy traffic the mirror fell from the windshield and swung back wild. It’s about a $250.00 item. Not to mention it’s dangerous, even more so in heavy traffic.
I call the installer back and he didn’t understand why I would be upset. Oh and you’ll like this. He informed me that he and his company knew that the adhesive supplied by the second-rate windshield did hold. It was like rubber cement. He scraped it off and applied the quality permatex adhesive designed for that just this purpose. I was taken back to say the least by his matter-of-fact attitude. And still he could see why I would be upset.
While I was sitting there, ensuring he used the good stuff, I noticed that at the upper edges the glass was con-caved, so much so, that images appeared to be doubled, like a fun house mirror!!!! Totally unacceptable.
I returned to my office and called the installation company directly. This resulted in a visit from the manager. We discussed the distortion and he agreed and we discussed the mirror and he stated that yes indeed that know this is a frequent occurrence and that there was nothing they could do. I asked why they didn’t replace the adhesive while installing the glass, if they knew this was that frequent? He didn’t have an answer for me. He said he’d go back and look over the other glass for a better one. I suggested he wait until I contacted the insurance company.
Next up…”The Insurance Company and the Price of Windshields”…or “What a Paint in the Glass”
In two months I will have been writing this blog for 1 year and I have enjoy every minute of it.
When you blog like I do, to share a specific area of interest, you are always trying to increase readership. Now if this were a commercial enterprise for me, then increasing my readership would be Job One. (Come on, which car company’s slogan was that? If Ford jumped into your head that would be correct.) However, it is not, but still I’m always searching for a way to make this blog a place more and more folks want to view.
There are a lots of ways to do that, none of them huge as far as bringing in the masses and some aren’t inexpensive and others are labor intensive. (Guess which one I do…oh…yeah…cheap and labor intensive…Average Guy….say it!!!!……Average Budget!!) While searching for ideas or processes I could take advantage of, I ran across some helpful hints. One in particular makes sense, namely, keeping the site updated regularly. This suggestion dictated that it be daily, which is really a good idea. However, the method it promoted was to jam the blog with other folks news feeds, articles and automatic updates from outside sources.
I thought about this a bit and I tooled around the web and looked at commercial blogs and forums and I realized that everyone had read this particular tip and employed it. And I thought, I just don’t see the point. The blog is no longer the owners writings, but really just a reorganization of things floating around on the web. Nope, not for me.
I still think keeping up the daily effort is the right way to go, but I can’t do it in that manner.
Although I do pop on videos that I think are cool and maybe a link to a forum or another blog, I’m going to keep the core of this blog full of original material, meaning my own scribblings and occasionally notes from the readership.
The life’s blood of a blog run like I run this one, are comments and readers. So drop me a note, ask a question, or give me a suggestion ( I do requests).
One of my favorite things is to have a reader drop by virtually and tell me about their rides. I’ve known Bill for 2 or 3 years now. We use to work in the same building and his car is nearly mint. What makes this even better is that Bill wrote up his own narrative. So I just have to copy and paste.
Take it away Bill.
Hi Tim:
Here are some LeBaron pics. (Pic are below) There are some from back in 2004, and the most recent from Jan 1, 2009 when the car turned over 100K miles. We actually celebrated that day the car’s odometer adding that most significant 1 to 5 zeros.
I bought this car Oct 2nd, 1991 from Celebrity Chrysler Dodge in San Jose, CA. The sales price was a whopping $15,344.15 out the door and no, I did not get any paint protection package, or extended warranty.
I know you won’t believe this, but this has been the very best car I have ever owned. It currently has 110K miles, and has the original water pump, alternator, AC compressor and Freon, fuel pump, master cylinder, and I could go on and on. The transmission was rebuilt a few years back, but otherwise only wear and maintenance items have been replaced. It has been very dependable from day one. I still get 23MPG around town, and lots of ‘thumbs ups’ at red lights.
The top has been replaced in 2004, but the paint is all original. This car has never been in a car wash, nor in an accident-not even a fender bender.
I get asked quite frequently who painted the car, and there is disbelief when I tell them it is original paint. I guess that is testament to the DriWash products and good ol’elbow grease.
This car has lots of memories and by accident has become a member of the family. I enjoyed cruising from San Jose to Santa Barbara along the Pacific Coast Highway 1, a few beautiful evening drives to Lake Tahoe and Reno with the top down, summer trips to Monterey and cruising Pebble Beach and the 17 Mile Drive. One thing going for this car, it is the most fun you will ever have at 35MPH.
The LeBaron convertible was the longest run for the K CAR based derivatives, lasting from 1982 to early model year 1996 when the Sebring came on-line. The original 1982 model was a conversion by ASC, and Chrysler sold out of the entire production run in just three weeks. Lee Iacocca ordered that the 1983 model be built-in house, and Chrysler had tool and dies made to factory build the convertible. It was the ONLY factory built convertible until the late 1980s when the Corvette switched to in-house convertible production. Up until the Miata was introduced, the LeBaron was the number one selling convertible, not only in the USA, but globally.
It is hard to believe that a car so popular died off so quickly. Chalk it up to poor resale value and low-cost (read cheap) Chrysler manufacturing. I still credit the smallest of the Big Three with the return of the convertible, and feel the LeBaron has an ignored legacy.
Bill's LeBaron
The LeBaron at 100k miles
This car has the same motor that powered the Mitsubishi 3000 and Dodge Stealth, a 3.0l V6. In K CAR duty, this is a SOHC, 12V motor with a frumpy 147bhp. The transmission is the (infamous) A604 ‘UltraDrive’, which was in its 2nd year in 1991. This was the world’s first electronic valvebody controlled auto trans, and some were so problematic mechanics nicknamed it the ‘a-sick-oh-four’. Mine lasted to 94K miles without an issue other than a flash memory recall. I had it overhauled due to the overdrive clutch worn out.
