Welcome back!
In this video Bill continues working on #ProjectBeepBeep’s heater Box and Core:
More coming up for #ProjectBeepBeep and it’s heater box and for #ProjectSportsRoof we’ve got shocks and upholstery.
Thanks for checking in!
Drop us a note and you can find our Facebook Page @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/448659875541893/
Tim
Bill takes on a leaking heater core and restores the original MOPAR heater box in his 1968 – Trophy wining RoadRunner.
Check it out:
More episodes of #ProjectBeepBeep coming so keep checking back.
Thanks
Tim
As I shelter in place during the 2020 CoVid19 historic event (why didn’t they call it CovVid2020? that would have been cool…actually I really don’t care. m) I pondered many things. One of the most important ponderings (not a word) was the difference in body styles of the 1973 Mustangs like #ProjectSportRoof (#SR73).
According the all the numbers and confirmed by my Marti Reports (plug – the folks at Marti Auto Works are have access to soooo much Ford (and other brands) information. I always get their full set of reports and invoices/window stickers/data plates etc for my cars. That includes for my 1970 Mustang Coupe, my 2004 Ford SportTrac (pickup) and my 1973 SportsRoof – if you’ve never heard of them #1 Where you’ve been? and # 2 – Here ya go – https://www.martiauto.com.) #ProjectSportsRoof is a SportsRoof, not a Mach I. It’s body code is a 63D. As far as numbers goes that’s a good thing if you want/like unique. With only just over 10k produced (10,820 to be exact) my #SR73 is the lowest production body style for the last year of the Big Stangs. And we all know that – low production equals rare and rare equals more desire and more desire equals more value. (It doesn’t really – at least not always and not in this case…yet…check with me in about 100 years.) Just to give you the rest of the data, Mach I’s (body style 63R) numbers are over 35k – the 2nd highest. First highest is 2dr hard top (body style 65D) at 51,480, followed by Grande (body style 65F) at just over 25k, and by then the Convertible, body style 76D at 11,953.
The fact that there are different designations for the body styles (back to my pondering) what is the difference? I’m looking for the answers for at least the my 63D vs. 63R. Maybe even the between Grande (65F) and the 2dr hardtop (65D).
I think it would be “nice to know info”. For example all the welds on the SportsRoof were done by blind, one armed welders, using a mirror. (that’s not true…I don’t think!) I’d like to know that. There’s one response suggesting that they have a “…unique body code due to the added standard features.” Which is not specific enough. My SportsRoof came with Mach 1 interior package and slotted aluminum wheels those could be add by checking a box when ordering.
So I’ll keep send out quires and see if I can get anything more refined.
But the fact that my body designation is unique is cool. I have a habit of selecting unique cars. My 1970 Mustang was one of only about 11k produced that year, last of the medium sized Stangs. My 1984 Corvette was first year unique, for body style, engine, Z51 suspension and lowest drag coefficient windshield up to that point (yes…really).
If you think you know or have a guess drop me a note and I’ll update this post, or write a new one with and update.
Thanks for checking. Drop me a note!!
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof #SR73
#ProjectSportsRoof – 1973 SportsRoof #SR73
Every Muscle (or classic or older) car owner has a list of little things that need to be tackled. (see notes the bottom of article)
For me the list is long:
Fix mirrors
Fix locks
Fix door handle
Adjust the hood…..I”ll stop here but there’s more….much much more!!!
Bill popped over yesterday and we tweaked the new carb (you’ll see that in a bit) and timing on the 351 Cleveland and while we were test driving #ProjectSportsRoof – #SR73 (Yeah…I just added that) we had a bit of a problem with the brakes. Rear’s were grabbing and the fronts locked up after a few trips up and down the road. So I’ve ordered parts for those and put moving #SR73 on hold.
Now is a perfect time to shorten the “Little Things” list.
Some time ago when I was removing the heater box/AC box and discovered there has been a leak – many moons ago and there was some rust damage. It could have stayed that way for the next 30 years but I didn’t want to leave unattended. Now, if you are a purest, please stop reading right read and DON’T WATCH THE VIDEO!!. I could have cut out the rust and shaped a piece of sheet metal and at least riveted it in and given it a shot or primer. But I didn’t. It’s hidden, no chance it is going to get worse in the Arizona climate. Here is what I did:
Tim
NOTES: Every now and again I need to remind readers what this blog is really about. It’s about what average guys, with average skills, an average toolbox and average working guys budget do to their cars. Mostly I’m chronicling the progress on my cars and share successes and failures, ups and downs and the smiles and frustrations. It’s not meant to be a HOW TO, but to encourage shade tree restorer to take on a project. I hope you enjoy checking in on the project like #ProjectBeepBeep and #ProjectSportsRoof and any of the car ‘stuff’ that appears here.
I always want your comment and questions, positive nor negative.
The title should say it all!!
Bill stopped by and we tweaked the timing and carb on #ProjectSportsRoof.
For the first time the stars of this blog are in the same Air Space!
Check it out!
Thanks for checking in!
Tim
I remember when you could go into a auto parts store and the clerks knew something about cars.
When I was a kid (back in the early 1970’s) my Dad owned a body shop. I’d work there on weekends (for …”the roof over you head”) and summers. I learned a lot about cars and enjoyed it (most of it). One of the coolest things was heading over the automotive parts and paint places. So much cool stuff to look at, paint books with paint chips in them, tools and gadgets. You could talk for an hour about the cars you were working on. If you asked a question they normally had a useful answer. If you wanted advice you would get some, sometime even if you did ask there was a good chance you’d get some. NAPA was big back then and had paint as well.
Those places are long gone now, mostly. Now no one has the parts in stock and worse most of the clerks have no idea about car parts (insert Rock Auto theme song) and there is nearly 100% reliance on a computer. There is just no way a parts clerk should utter the phrase “I can order it.” Oh and talk about your car project?…’fer getta bou it’!
This whine is was brought about by my recent purchase of a fuel pump for #ProjectSportsRoof (my 1973 351 Cleveland powered Mustang).
Normally, I don’t use names of companies but I’m going to now.
I purchased the Speedmaster fuel pump from Summit Racing Equipment. Speedmaster also has their own site where they sell these as well.
Specs:
Brand: Speedmaster
Manufacturer’s Part Number: PCE146-1014
Part Type: Fuel Pumps
Product Line: Procomp Electronics High-Volume Mechanical Fuel Pumps
Summit Racing Part Number: SDM-PCE146-1014
UPC: 840136507376
Fuel Pump Type: Mechanical
Flow Rate: 115 gph/435 lph
Fuel Pressure (psi): 6 psi
Fuel Pressure Regulator Included: No
Sending Unit Included: No
Inlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT —not
Inlet Quantity: One
Inlet Attachment: Female threads
Outlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT —not
Outlet Quantity: One
Outlet Attachment: Female threads
Gasket Included: No -actually yes 2 gaskets
Wiring Harness Included: No
Mounting Bracket Included: No
Mounting Hardware Included: No
Pulley Included: No
The pump is designed to be configurable to give the best fit possible. The pump showed up with no fittings – which I guess it normal now days. It also showed up with no instructions. Just the pump in the box and two gasket stuck under the bottom box flap. Instruction would have been nice if I need to swivel the IN/OUT.
I didn’t think the hardware would be a problem I could use the male end from the old pump and pick up the other at a local parts store. I figured that I’d double check their site for instructions just in case I need anything different, after all this pump pushed a bunch more fuel then the OEM version.
I went to Speedmaster’s web site and looked up the pump and clicked the instructions link. Nothing happened. I called the company to see if they could email me instructions. The ‘clerk’ said “We don’t have any instruction, but I do have diagram.” I prompt him with, “You don’t have instruction?” He confirmed. I said O.K. , send me the diagram, thinking to myself, that will have some information. Here is what I got:
Lets compare:
 This is my ome pump |
 This is the Speedmaster pump. |
Not seeing it!!!
So I called up Summit Racing Equipment and spend 1 hour 22 minutes on hold (I was editing video during that time). I was then requested to leave my number and a tech could text me back. 5 hours later….I get a text. I asked the question about instructions. The next day I get a text that says “It’s a pretty straight forward installation.” So I called. Summit again. I was on hold for 45 minutes and finally got someone to answer my question which was – what size it the OUT thread so I can get a fitting. (originally I thought I’d get the proper fitting for the flared steel line). Summit told me I shouldn’t use the steel line and to just get the male to 3/8 barb. I asked again what size threads? He said 3/4″ to 3/8″ barb. I ran to 3 Auto Parts stores and no one had this fitting. (That is the short version – most didn’t even know what I was talking about, much less knew if they had anything like that.) I order some from Amazon and they next day delivery with my Prime membership! They didn’t fit. So I found Speedmaster on Facebook and asked the question. Here is how that 3 day conversation went:
Speedmaster Automotive Parts Store
Tue 6:43 PM———————————————————–Note the time.
I purchased this: Brand: Speedmaster
Manufacturer’s Part Number: PCE146-1014
Part Type: Fuel Pumps
What size male fitting do I need from your pump to a 3/8 barb?
Tue 11:07 PM——————————————————————–Note the time
3/8 npt—————————————————————————Response
Wed 2:29 PM——————————————————————-Note time
38 npt to 38 barb?
3/8 npt to 3/8 barb (my correction)
No response
?
No response
(I called the Speedmaster again then Facebook messaged them)
Wed 4:12 PM————————————————————————Note time
I’m confused. Summit says 3/4 to 3/8 barb. I just talked to someone at your
location via phone they said 3/4npt. But 3/4 npt does not fit. If I didn’t already
have the pump in the car I’d return it and buy something that there with clear
instruction and well informed support. ….🙁
I’ll have to pick up both sizes tomorrow and I’ll get back to you on the actual size!
—————————————————————————————-NOTE LACK OF RESPONSE.
(My follow up to the chat)
Thursday 1:13 PM
Here is exactly what fitting is needed.
805NSED – 3/8 barb X 5/16 npt Hose Barb X Inverted Flare
Something you SHOULD know but
no one did. Don’t feel do bad even Summit, where I purchased it got it wrong.
#MissingTheGoodOldDays
Thanks for letting me whine!!!
Tim
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof.
I continue to chase down the fuel issues on my 73 Mustang’s 351 Cleveland.
Last time on the “Day of Discoveries” found the fuel line crushed. This is the repair video. WARNING: It is longer than normal with a few Average Guy tips. Link:
So kick back, give it a watch and drop me a comment or two!!
Thank you.
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportRoof, the on going saga of my 1973 Mustang Sports Roof.
I have a lot of projects going on with ProjectSportsRoof, mainly because it NEEDS a lot work. Plus the whole COVID19 thing has parts on back order and shipping delays, blah, blah, blah!
I ordered a new fuel pump and the project shipping date was Oct 2020….canceled that order. Found one that was in stock and shipped in 3 days – DONE!
So as I wait for that important part, I figured I’d replace the front shocks, which by the way were on back order for 2 weeks. Turns out it was a good idea, as it uncovered an issue that might help solve a current problem…you’ll see!!
Now, I didn’t show you my step by step removal and installation, shocks are pretty straight forward. Here’s the video (BTW I don’t normally do a sit down chat but I did today):
Thanks for checking in!
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof – my 351C powered 73 Mustang Sports Roof!
I’m pressing on with tracking down the cause of the frequent stalling of the bored .040 351C.
I suspected vapor lock, but with the fuel line insulated against the heat of the manifold and block, I didn’t get the ‘boiling’ sound, that might not be the issue. But I couldn’t keep it running in idle. So the fuel press test was next. Here’s the video:
The fuel pump feeding the juice to the carb is a generic stock not sure of the specs. Here is what I’m going to replace it. Oh and it is tough to find anything for 351 Cleveland on the local market. Even on-line, I was looking at out stock everywhere and ship dates of Oct 2020! Thanks Pandemic!!!
So I found this:
Procomp Electronics High-Volume Mechanical Fuel Pumps PCE146-1014
Fuel Pump, Mechanical, Chrome, 115 gph, 6.5 psi, 1/4 in. NPT,
Flow Rate: 115 gph/435 lph
Inlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT
Inlet Quantity: One
Inlet Attachment: Female threads
Outlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT
Procomp Electronics high-volume mechanical fuel pumps are designed to work with stock or mildly
modified engines. They deliver free-flow outputs of 115 gph–that’s twice what a normal pump
typically delivers! These pumps are plated with a bright finish for good looks and corrosion
resistance. The lower housings can be rotated through 360 degrees to make fitting into tight
places a snap, and they have large orifices for high flow rates. Procomp Electronics high volume
mechanical fuel pumps are not compatible with methanol or alcohol fuels, and should not be used
with fuel injection systems. Order the model recommended for your specific vehicle and engine size.
Drop your thoughts in a comment!!
Thanks for checking!!
Tim
Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland in #ProjectSportsRoof
#ProjectSportsRoof – Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland Part II
Welcome back.
I’m shaking down the partial rebuild of the 1972 351 Cleveland in my 1973 Mustang dubbed, #ProjectSportsRoof (originally called SR-73, but reader keep asking me if could do MACH 4+ …yea, I didn’t think it was funny either). New cam, lifters, rods and a few other things, need to be giving a good working out. However, fuel issues have popped up.
Suspected vapor lock, but not sure, so I’m taking it one step at time. Step one insulate the gas line from the block. Here’s the video and results. I could have edited a bunch out but I wanted the viewers to see it as it happened – in this case it’s more like HEAR it. This is my way of saying the video is ….um…not great!! Watch the video and then give me your opinion on which option below you want me to try next.
1. Fuel Pressure test (because it might not be vapor lock)
2. Another option is to install an Electric Fuel Pump near the tank. This pressurizes most of the
fuel in the lines. Fluid under pressure is harder to vaporize.
3. Other options include installing a Phenolic Carb Spacer and/or a Carburetor Heat Shield to
keep the carburetor cool.
4. Swap from an 850CFM to 750 or 650CFM Carb (because it might not be vapor lock)
Find the comment box and let me know which one you want to see attempted or email me at AGCarrestoration@cox.net.
Thanks for checking in.
Tim
