These guys are having fun. Just proves you don’t need gobs of HP to have fun . On a track with safety gear. Come on…that’s fun!!!!
[vodpod id=Video.16297291&w=425&h=350&fv=video%3Da26ce6b3-f8ae-47e4-801c-9ff0009b6720%26amp%3Bservicecfg%3D386]
These guys are having fun. Just proves you don’t need gobs of HP to have fun . On a track with safety gear. Come on…that’s fun!!!!
[vodpod id=Video.16297291&w=425&h=350&fv=video%3Da26ce6b3-f8ae-47e4-801c-9ff0009b6720%26amp%3Bservicecfg%3D386]
No it’s not real Corvette – but the Collector’s Promo Revell Model. In the original box.
All you have to do is guess the year of the Corvette the part pictured belongs too!!! First one to post the answer gets 1 point. The first one that gets 4 correct wins the car.
I’ll post pics here. You need to go here:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Average-Guys-Car-Restoration-Mods-and-Racing/185827701454279
and post your answer….you have to include year of the Vette and the words “Average-Guys-Car-Restoration-Mods-and-Racing” in your post.
Here is the next pic:
Good Luck.
Tim
No it’s not real Corvette – but the Collector’s Promo Revell Model. In the original box.
All you have to do is guess the year of the Corvette the part pictured belongs too!!! First one to post the answer gets 1 point. The first one that gets 4 correct wins the car.
I’ll post pics here. You need to go here:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Average-Guys-Car-Restoration-Mods-and-Racing/185827701454279
and post your answer….you have to include year of the Vette and the words “Average-Guys-Car-Restoration-Mods-and-Racing” in your post.
Here is the first pic:
Good Luck.
Tim
Does time fly or what? I started this series last year and this is the next installment.
As you know the US government asked and eventually forced the auto industry to contribute to the war effort. This series is to highlight some of the major contributions. This time is Nash.
As many know, Nash was a premier car manufacturer prior to the war.
During the war Nash used it plant in Kenosha, Wisconsin to produce engines for (among others) my favorite aircraft of all time…the Corsair.
Nash build the Pratt & Whitney engines that powered this awesome aircraft.
Their work force consisted mainly of women.
Later on Nash would morph into the American Motors Company (AMC).
Thanks for reading
Tim
From an article by HVA
To Restore or Not to Restore
March 16, 2012
The question of whether to restore a historic vehicle or leave it alone can spark a thought-proving debate. Here, two long time veterans and experts offer some of their insights.
The decisions surrounding restoring a vehicle or keeping it just as your grandfather left it in the barn are as personal as they are complex. This is a question and discussion that seems to be coming up more often these days.
Blame it on the economy or simply a new appreciation for vehicles preserved in a “roughly original” state. Either way, says Scott George, President and curator of The Collier Collection in Naples, Florida, determining whether a vehicle should be fully restored or basically left alone has classic car lovers asking new questions about how restoration work (or the lack thereof) might impact the value and enjoyment of their favorite vehicle.
No Going Back
“You should really think hard about any restoration work before you just go in and do it,” says George, “because once you restore you can never go back.”
George has seen the trend for “originality” grow in the last decade, a movement he traces to Europe where car enthusiasts have always believed that a car’s condition helps tell its story.
“In America, we are just catching up to this notion that cars can be beautiful without being perfectly clean,” he says. “There are even some cars in the Collier collection that we now regret restoring.”
George points out that it is unlikely that an un-restored car will ever win best of show at a major American car show. But to most classic vehicle owners, winning an award at a major show doesn’t factor into their decision making. However, if you would one day decide to have your car judged, most major shows now have a “preservation class.” George believes it is a great step in the right direction, not to mention the fact that it opens the door to many car enthusiasts who would otherwise never think to give car show competition a try.
Finding the Right Balance
George is one in the growing crowd of “original or survivor” proponents. But his new guiding philosophy is balanced with the reality that a car is not like other collectible items such as coins, furniture or fine art.
“Cars are mechanical,” he says. “Unless you just have a car to sit and look at, there comes a point where originality needs to be overridden in the interest of preserving the vehicle.”
On the subject of whether to restore or preserve, it’s not a “one-way-or-the-other” mentality. This change in attitude means that a historic vehicle owner can now enjoy the best of both worlds. George says the best way to do that is by carefully balancing a vehicle’s functionality and design features with a watchful eye for preserving original authenticity.
Giving a Car a Second Life
In the last decade, Jim Stranberg, owner of High Mountain Classics in Berthoud, Colorado, has also watched as a new trend toward “preservation and originality” emerged. But that doesn’t mean he likes it.
“A lot of people now seem to think that if you have a valuable car that looks like you just pulled it out of a barn that this is really the way to go,” he says. “I don’t generally agree with that.”
Stranberg says every car has “a half-life”. When a vehicle reaches a point of becoming worn out, that’s when it’s time to consider an inside and out restoration job that brings the car back to life.
But first, according to Stranberg, a person should ask themselves a few important questions:
What do you plan on doing with the car?
Stranberg and his partner Victor Holtorf are restorers who generally believe in doing everything necessary to make a car look new again. High Mountain Classics restoration jobs typically require at least 5,000 shop hours—a major commitment of time, resources, and money. It’s the sort of work demanded by people with an eye for car show competition. But even if a customer isn’t interested in having a car judged, to Stranberg’s way of thinking there’s always some degree of restoration work that needs to be done.
“When it comes to old cars, nothing is truly original,” he says. Strictly speaking, anything done to a vehicle inside and out over the course of its life—from changing an engine’s spark plugs to replacing a front fender—takes away from the originality of the car. Do you want the car to be able to compete in the show realm, or simply have a vehicle that presents and runs reliably at rallies and cruise-ins? Stranberg believes people must ask themselves how far are they willing to go—and for what purpose—in an effort to give the vehicle a second life.
How valuable is the car?
High Mountain Classics has never had a customer spend more on a restoration job than their vehicle was worth. But, admittedly, Stranberg and partner Holtorf work on coveted and exceedingly rare types of historic cars that only increase in book value when treated to topnotch restoration work.
A vehicle’s value, however, can’t always be measured in dollars and cents.
Take the hypothetical example of a dearly departed relative’s 1950 Ford F-100 half ton found under a tarp in the garage. Maybe it was used in a family business: a once reliable working truck that now sports a few dings, a crumpled fender, and an engine that spits and sputters but still runs. Such a truck would not pull much at an auction, but it may have deep sentimental value.
“If a person only wanted to occasionally drive the vehicle at a rally or a cruise-in—and the body, upholstery, and engine were in good shape—then, yes, I probably would not advise restoring it, except mechanically,” Stranberg says.
The Historic Vehicle Association would like to know what you think. Take the example above: That old 1950 Ford F-100 half ton truck that’s been in the family for years and earned its keep through hard work before it was put away to languish under cover in the garage. It’s battered and bruised, but still runs and has a lot of important memories attached to it. Would you restore it or leave it alone? Head on over to the HVA’s Facebook page or comment below to tell us what you think and to see what other members are saying.
WOW…I apologize for leaving you hanging for so long without finishing this interview.
Here is the link for Part I.
So while at first glance it did appear that there were just newly built vintage shaped bodies, placed on the C6 chassis, a really close look and you can see something very different about the shape.
So you can tell that they didn’t just pull off that old C6 body and dump it out behind the barn.
So how do they do it?
Well the make body panels that fit to the framework of the exiting parts. For instance, the rear hatch is striped of the outer panels leaving just the framework and the split window panels are fitted. The rear panel is pulled off and the rear panel with the split bumpers is placed on.
Jim showed me the shop photos of a C6 – skinned. They also retrofit C5.
It is a pretty intense process.
They all the do is custom bodies? Oh wait until you see what’s next. (Yes I promise I’ll get right to it.)
Thanks for reading.
Tim
F1 Down Under!!!!
When you think of Woodies, you don’t think of Bentley, at least I never do. But in 1948 Bentley produced a woody.
Bentley was the first car produced by Rolls Royce after World War II.
The 1948 Bentley Mark VI with the wood body was dubbed the Countryman.
The body build by coachbuilder Harold Radford and was aluminum over ash framing with wood paneling on the sides. The rear is mahogany veneer on alloy panels. There were only eight bodies built between 1948 and 1949.
No way I’m going to not mention the engine. Here are the specs:
4257 cm3 / 259.8 cui displacement with advertised power kW / hp / PS ( ) / and Nm / lb-ft / of torque. Dimensions: this model outside length is 4877 mm / 192 in, it’s 1752 mm / 69 in wide and has wheelbase of 3048 mm / 120 in. The value of a drag coefficient, estimated by a-c, is Cd = . Standard wheels were fitted with tires size 6.50 – 16
Willys is up next.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
When I first purchased my 07 Corvette and took my wife for a ride. I was pretty jazzed and noticed the noise emanating from the roof.
That was the first thing she noticed. I was so caught up in the handling and power I was ok with the noise. But after she mentioned it, I wasn’t able to ignore it quite as easily.
The squeaking was very profound and since our roads aren’t the best in the land, it crazy loud. So the search was on for a cure.
Lots of help on-line including resetting (releasing the front latches) and closing them again. This came with the sage advice “….I got the wife accustomed to helping me reset the top at stop lights…don’t do it while you are moving….” I wonder if that little nugget was from a first person experience?
And for a while I would reset the top latches (not while moving) when the noise got frequent. But that just couldn’t be a long-term solution……”ERRRRRKK….(braking noise)…..I brake for “soap boxes”!!!
I am frankly sick and tired of hearing for Corvette owners the following phrases…”that’s the nature of the beast”….”that’s just something you have to live with”…and the my favorite…”You’ll get use to it.” That is all BS. If things are broken…then they are broken. If doesn’t work like it’s supposed to, then it needs attention. I’ve heard that ever since I’ve owned my C6. Those tired phrases, were used for the squeaking roof and the odd activity with my gas gauge after filling it up and the cold weather shifting issue. No way dawg, I want this stuff fixed!!! .
So back to top issue. After checking with a few more Corvette buddies, I ran into to one that gave me this, every valuable tip. He used it successfully.
Get out the lube…Dielectric grease the rollers / contact point for the front latches and the pins in the back. Lube up the rubber moldings /contact points of the moldings.
Spray a little on a rag and wipe down the rubber weather-stripping. You don’t need a lot.
I’ve only done one time and not since. But I keep the rubber clean and no problems.
For those of you aren’t familiar with the top (I’ve talked to a couple that didn’t know the coupe had a removal top.) see the video below.
[vodpod id=Video.16243571&w=425&h=350&fv=%26rel%3D0%26border%3D0%26]
My last post “Dodge Unveils Next-Gen Sprint Cup Car in Vegas…..” (http://wp.me/pKHNM-ZJ), invoked a few comments mostly on Facebook and at least one here that touched on something that ‘bugs’ me about where NASCAR has gone since the 60’s.
Here is an excerpt from Bill:
“….
I’m bittersweet about manufacturers participation in NASCAR, and have been since TOYOTA wrapped themselves in the American flag and joined the series. If manufacturers are to continue participation, then I would like to see rules such as motor sources must be manufacturer sourced, running pump gas, and back to body templates that must match their street versions.
Back when MOPAR was absent from NASCAR, the ideal was that there just was nothing to gain in NASCAR other than name recognition for Chrysler. Even TOYOTA admitted when they joined NASCAR that there was nothing to gain other than getting their logo on the field….”
In another post I talked about loss of innovation and brand loyalty and I have to expand on and disagree a bit with Bill.
When NASCAR started the templates and restricter plates and began the standardization of the cars that participated, I began loosing interest and a lot of other did as well. One of the biggest complaints I hear among the fan I sit with during a race and talk to is that the cars a so similar there really isn’t much to the racing part. Those rules are what killed the major benefits for the manufacturers. It killed individual innovation. The cars are now tube framed, bland sheet metal, sticker covered shell of what racing use to be, 200 per hour uninspiring billboards. Headlights and logos…. STICKERS… people!!!!!
How can these compare?
They don’t compare.
Thanks for reading.
Tim