Category Archives: Restro-Mods

Mustang Hose Woes – The Cause of it all.

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Sometimes old car parts break…that’s the nature of things old.  However, most of my Mustang’s parts are only 3 years old or so. 

So sometimes new parts break when they are used in a restoration along with existing older parts.  This was the case with the power steering hose failure. 

If you haven’t read my entire 130 posts thus far (why not???…toe tapping…toe tapping), you might not have picked up on the fact that my 70 coupe started out life with a 9.1:1 compression 250 straight 6 “power plant”. Now it’s a fire-breathing 302…ok…no fire..but a 302 none the less. 

I won’t go to all the trial and tribulations of the 6 to V8 conversion..right now..but soon, but here it’s necessary to share what I know.  It is not an uncommon practice to be swap out a 6 cylinder for more power.  You can quite often, pick up a 6 banger cheaper, than an a v8.  Just as often difficulties arise in the course of the improvement. eerrrkkkk…There are some people who believe it was blasphemy replacing the 250 – there weren’t that many made that year. There is a small group of guys that were a bit dismayed when I didn’t keep the 6. (I am too..now.)  That group has done some amazing things with a 6 cylinder, that make my 302 ‘Stang look like a pedal car!!  I have their book so some, I’ll post up the details when I get back in town….End of eeerrrrkk 

After looking at the broken hose, which was bent and cracked near the flared end. 

Power Steering break point

 

Here is what I learned.  The 1970 coupe 6 cylinder has a different power steering package then does the 8 cylinder.  Specifically, the difference is the way the power steering pump is mounted and the length of the hose.  I recall when the part was getting installed, I was called to determine how we wanted to proceed when it was noticed that the hose, in order to reach the new height of the pump, could possibly come in continued contact with the control arms. This would cause a  rubbing between the two pieces against the rubber portion of the hose.  The decision was made to double the hose – by cutting a larger hose and enclosing the original in side and using ties to secure it. 

This worked just fine while the front end stayed …well old and sloppy.  Just recently I posted about replacing the upper control arms and in doing so, tightening up the front end and removing the slop that allowed the clearance to be  greater between the two parts.  With less space between them, the control arm came into contact with the hose and after several bumps getting in an out of my driveway the hose got crimped and then broke. 

Ordered another hose for a V8 and had it installed.  Everything functioning properly. 

Thanks reading. 

Tim

Mustang Hose Woes

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I was about to start the pillar moldings mini project when I ran into a couple mechanical issues.

About a week ago the Mustang began squealing when pushed to high revs.  That normally indicates one of several problems.

1. It could be a water pump

2.  It could be the power steering pump

3.  It could be a pulley

4. It could be a bolt that was holding the alternator bracket to the engine worked itself out and was in contact with the fan belt.

5. It could be a combination of the any of these.

Now the Mustang did, every once in a while, drip some fluid from the power steering control value but it wasn’t a huge deal.

Well, Saturday I went to start her and the battery was dead.  It’s over 3 years old and I had left the lights on the day before and had to have it jump started.  So off to the auto parts store I went and pick up a new 3 year battery and stuck it. When I started the engine up, it made the squeal and I decided I needed to fix this, before the pillar molding.

So with a neighbor revving the engine I noticed the bolt protruding from the water pump/block ( it passes through left side water pump housing in to the block).  With the revs the fan belt would flex and briefly hit the bolt.   This bolt was “custom” made when we were fitting everything up to reman’ed long block and was about 7 or 8 inches long.

It took a bit to get that back in place, had to loosen up the alternator’s other two supports and toss a little loctite on the threads and she was good to go…..almost…..

Yeah….option #5 above was the correct answer BTW.

Started it up and there was still a squeal – not the same squeal but clearly an ‘accompaning’ squeal.  Shortly after that a power steering hose let go and well liquid does what gravity  make it do and I spent the afternoon cleaning the driveway.  So there went my allotted time for Saturday.   So replacing both hoses seem the best way to go and they’ll  be in today.  Right now it’s at the shop down the street, I had no time to undertake this task at the moment, will be traveling the next couple weeks.

One of my travels takes me to the National Corvette Museum.  I’ll spend an entire day there which include the assembly plant tour.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

V8 Reference Book

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I grab every book I think is useful in any of my hobbies.  I happened to be at the mall the other day and had some time kill and wonder down to Borders books store.  Pick up a book entitled “Ultimate American V-8 Engine Data Book” 2 Edition  by Peter Sessler, published MotorBooks.

This book has engine identification codes, component casting codes, internal dimensions and specs, and power and torque ratings.

It goes back as far as 1952 and covers Fords, GM, Mopar, and AMC, Packard and Studebaker.  It includes big blocks and small blocks.  There is a lot of information.

I learned from this book that all of the engines possible for the Corvette in 1984 were rated @ 205 hp.  The CFI was the main power supplier, but it also had listed a couple TPI’s (engine suffix code ZFC), TBI (engine suffix code ZFJ – supposedly for export only) and a 4v for California (engine suffix code ZFF).

They also inform you of the transmissions that go with the engines.

There are listings for cylinder heads parts or casting # as well as intake and exhaust manifolds as well.

I think this one is worth the  $30.00.

This is a great transition to introduce an up and coming feature for this blog.

I love engines…(duh).  To me the history of development, what was used when and where and maybe even why can be fascinating.  I’ll be tossing out specs and the like and hopefully some, ” I would have never guessed that” information.  Now, I don’t have this all in my head, it will be researched stuff or some experiences. (My 1974 Torino was a good case study..tell you the story soon).

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Abandoned Cars – Contest – Win a Hot Rod DVD

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One of my favorite things are abandoned cars.  Every year I get the Hemming calendar of abandoned vehicles and look forward to various car publications that have a section where they highlight these photos.   

One of my fondest memories growing up was playing across the road from where we lived with an old Plymouth, 1950’s vintage that was left in the field.  I remember my dad saying after I asked him if it would run, that it needed a carburetor.  My brother and I tried to fashion one out of can and some metal fins from an old ice tray.  This was back in the late 60’s, we were pretty young.   

Out here in the southwest you use to be able to see them all the time.  The desert really knew how to tear down a car.  As late as the mid 90’s you could still find them along the side of the road of major highways and if you dared to head out in to the mountains of southern Arizona, trek up the nearly impassable mining roads you’d find them.  There would be anything from the 1930 to late 1950.  Some would be sitting right beside the road or a mine and many could be down the mountain a ways, not a road in sight.  When they died the owners left ’em where they fell. But often, since the road was so narrow, they would push them off the side and down the mountain.   

During the mid 1980’s and early 1990’s I spend some time in the mountain, looking for ghost mining towns and generally in join the trips with relatives.  You would find abandoned car dotting the dirt roads that wound up and down the canyons.  Somewhere in the mid 1990’s the Forestry Department started fencing off the old abandoned mines and as part of a plan to allow the areas to return to their natural state, blocking off the mountain roads to make impassible to all but the most daring 4 wheelers. eeeerrrkkkkk….I’ve been places in a 1970 Monte Carlo that some folks with 4 wheel drive won’t go.  Part of that initiative was to haul out the old wrecks that had been there for decades.  So a lot of them are gone.   

I recently began look for abandoned cars as a hobby and photograph them.  So I thought maybe some of my readers might what to join in and catalog the wrecks and their locations and well as photographs.   

Then I thought, maybe a contest would be fun.  So I’m looking for the readership to email me photos of abandoned car that you run across.  Of course there are some rules.   

What qualifies as an abandoned car?  I’m going to be pretty liberal here and we’ll extend the criteria to include neglected backyard finds as well. It has to appear to be pretty much untouched and neglected.   

Two more rules:   

You have to provide a general location and it has to be an original photo, not snagged from the internet.   

Here is one example.   

The house in the photo had been empty for some time according to the locals in Tombstone, Az.  These three cars were in the back yard covered with weeds, trees and debris.   

This a 1950's Chevy pick up. I wasn't allowed to get any closer.

 

Next in the same yard was this:   

Chevy Monte Carlo

 

And this Ford coupe:   

Ford Coupe

 

I’ve one more good one..but I’ll save that for later.  

For the first two individuals writing in with a good photo of an abandoned or neglected car, I have a DVD from the Hot Rod Magazine Library “Dream-Build-Drive” collection.  

You can email it to me (timsweet@cox.net) or post to my Facebook page (look me up: Tim Sweet).   

Thanks for reading.   

Tim

Wrenchin’ Tip – Fuel Line Threads

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I’ve worked on the gas delivery systems in my Vettes and Mustangs.  This always involves removing  gas lines from the carb or throttle bodies and of course the possibility of leaks after re-installing them.  One of the last things you want is gas leaking here and there in your engine bay..NOT GOOD!

I’ve always use teflon tape to wrap the threads.

Teflon Tape on one of the Corvette’s fuel lines.

This helps seal the connection, and sometimes with older cars you need that was the threads aren’t bad enough to replace….errk…Getting new fittings and flaring the gas lines is sometimes necessary and can be a pain..but if threads are really worn, take the time to do that.  Yes..I know cutting the lines and get correct type hose and some clamps you’ll be fine…but it won’t look as good and since both of my car are trophy winners at car shows, I try to keep them looking professional.

Using the tape does have a of couple drawbacks.  It can form a lip around the gas line opening, partially blocking the flow. Additionally,  pieces can tear off during installation and get into the system.  So some companies offer a thread sealer in a tube, which is made of Teflon in paste form.  I’m using that next time I have to go into the fuel systems.  I know that Permatex makes some (what don’t those people make!?!?!!?!).  They call it thread sealant and it comes in different “models” like High Performance and High Temperature.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Auto Factoids for 4/18/2010

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4/18/1955 Lincoln becomes a subdivision of Ford. 

1954-Lincoln

Here are a couple that I did not know.

4/22/1954 – Hudson and Nash merge to form AMC.

4/23/1987 – Chrysler buys Lamborghini.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Auto Factoids for 4/11/2010

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We have a couple big ones this week. 

4/13/1904   Cadillac plant burned to the ground.  More info on this site:   http://www.car-nection.com/yann/dbas_txt/Factq-s.htm 

Hey, on the same date in 1965 Pontiac produce car number 10 million!!  We miss Pontiac!! 

On a lower note, Volvo produced its first car on 4/14/1927 

1927 PV4

 

4/15/1924  McNally published its first road atlas. 

4/16/1908 Oakland began selling its brand of cars. 

I believe they actually began producing cars in 1907.

 

4/17/1969 Ford began selling the Maverick.  <cricket…..cricket…>  Come on..it was a good car and getting more and more collectible!!! 

wait…for it….wait…for it 

OH YEAH…..4/17/1964……Ford produced the MUSTANG!!!! 

Oh..wait..that's not a 1964...it's my 70!!!!

 

Oh..here ya go. 

1964 2+2 Fast back

 

Thanks for reading 

Tim

C4 Vette Valve Cover Replacement CLOSURE

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Closure for all the blog readers. 

Finished this up today.  Here are some pics.  (Yeah..I know..forgot to take them before I put the air cleaner on…but you get the idea.)

Only issue..the thickness of the chrome covers was less than the originals and I had to get a shorter set of chrome bolts.  I have got quite a collection for chrome bolts now!!

THE END.

C4 Vette Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Part VI

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Ok..let me finish up blogging to you on this  event.  I had a read ask if it has really taken this long and the answer is No and Yes.  (I’ll explain the YES in a bit..it ain’t pretty!!!!)       

After find the correct bolts, wrestling the covers back into place was, I bolted them down.  Installed they looked pretty good.       

Check it out.       

Left side painted and installed. Still missing the emblem..right now

 

The only difficulty was aligning the holes in the cover and the gasket and the engine. Due to the lack of room to maneuver I wasn’t able to keep the gasket and cover holes aligned while wrestling them into place. I used two (small enough to slide into the threaded holes without damaging) phillips head screw driver to help keep them aligned and put the bolts in.       

Errrkk……whatever you do tighten them carefully…..let me spell that for you  (Mickey Mouse Club tune playing in my head)  C…A….R.(because you care about your car)…E…F….U…L…L…(cause you want to keep the oil full)…..Y…(because if you tighten too much on the 1984 C4 magnesium valve covers you’ll crack them and they can’t be welded, JB or other wise, and then you’ve got to find used ones, because aftermarket aren’t all that great)….Ok…end of Mickey Mouse Club song…and the end of one of the original valve covers….       

And in case you didn’t get the between the lines intention of the above Errrkkkk…I broken one.       

I wasn’t sure at first, my mind refused to process the sound so that I could be sure..it might have been a crack, or maybe I just crunched one of the plastic tubes covering a bundle of wires.  Yeah..that’s it…I sure (it might have been a crack though….crap!!…let me spell that for you…oh…never mind….just invision huge font type all in upper case, bolded and underlined.)       

I inspected the cover while it was in  place and I couldn’t see anything and said…ok.average guy.. with average skills and average budget..you have above average luck…at least today…at least that’s what I thought…or hoped.       

When that  happens the only way to tell is to either take the cover back off and inspected…that wasn’t going to happen…or let her run and build up the oil pressure and see what happens….that is what you’d normally do any way after replace the gaskets.       

Here she is running:  (includes bonus views of the injectors…I think they are pretty cool to watch.)       

<embed width=”600″ height=”361″ type=”application/x-shockwave-flash” allowFullscreen=”true” allowNetworking=”all” wmode=”transparent” src=”http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid299.photobucket.com/albums/mm296/timsweet2200/MVI_6967.flv“>  

http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm296/timsweet2200/?action=view&current=MVI_6967.flv 

Covers don’t look to bad…but they aren’t going to stay…because..there really was a crack…but it didn’t show up  by leaking on this run…it should up the next day when I took the car to work.  I checked it when I arrived (about a 15 minute drive) no leaking…drove it home and she started to run poorly and had no power…yeah….it was leaking…on to a spark splug….got home and a little puddle of oil formed under the car and…well lets just say as I replaced the tightening episode in my head the crunching noise…sounded a lot more like a crack..in fact it was very clear on the replay!!!! The little referee in my head….said ‘After reviewing the play..the ruling in the garage is over turned, and Tim is charged a time out and $400.00 fine for cracking the cover and the vette gets parked until the parts get here!’       

Here is the pick where the crack occurred.       

Yup...cracked!!!!

 

That was Monday (4/5/2010) fast forward to today new cover have arrived (chrome) and they’ll be installed today or tomorrow.  So Yes it was finished and now No it’s not.       

Thanks for reading.       

Tim

C4 Vette Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Part V

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I’m now at the point where I can re-install the valve covers.  I’ve painted them and cleaned up the gromets (for one of my vette buddies who was dismayed when the saw the interim pics).  

If you remember I had to remove a few things including vacuum hoses, spark plug wires, a/c parts.  In addition the bolts that hold the covers down had spark plug wire holders  and other brackets for hold wires.  

Brackets that would mount through with the bolt for the covers passing through.

 

Keep this in mind as I explain what I learned from my decision to use Fel-Pro gaskets. 

Ok..fine enough dramma..lets get to the lesson I learned (which is often learned the hard way when you have average skills and less than average experience). 

I am not smarter than the engineers at GM.  They knew what they were doing when the used permatex…it was all about the bolts.  Specifically, the length the engineers decided do use, or maybe it was the budget guys. They knew how to follow the build sheet. Here is the bottom line.  The length of the bolts supported the thin layer of the permatex and the brackets shown above and that was it. 

They did not support the thickness of the gaskets.  They were just under a 1/4 too short.  With the brackets and the Fel-Pro gasket in place barely two threads poke out, not enough to catch the thread on the engine.  errrk….When did I know this and what got into your head to do it anyway? 

Fare enough question.  I found out when I queried a couple of Corvette forums about what gaskets to use.  I got a lot of responses, everyone has an opinion..ya know!!!  But only one had actually done an 84 C4 and he said..if you don’t use permatex you are going to have to get longer bolts and BTW your bracket for the spark holders won’t fit.  So I knew this before  I picked up the valve covers (but not before I ordered the set from the supplier).  

Why I didn’t go with the permatex solution was the amount of space and jostling what I had to do when I took them out.  I was pretty sure getting them back in would be worse and the changes of wiping off the some of the permatex and messing up the seal, making the odds of redoing it high. 

Finding the longer bolt took some doing.  The auto parts store…yes..yes.. the same one that said they didn’t have anything but cork and when querying another employee show me what I and originally asked for..didn’t have the proper bolts.   The 84 C4 was all metric, bolts and nuts, you can even switch the digital the dash from US to metric.  The heads are 11mm the threads were 6mm and the pitch was 1/4. 

I ended up at ACE hardware and the only thing that would work and look good were the chrome.  Ok…average guy with average budget…warning..they weren’t cheap…I know that when the manger took me to the back of the store and showed me a stack of boxes that were padlocked shut.  They lock them up!!!!  They were over $2.00 each, washers were nearly a $1.00.  

So I decided on the chrome but they only had 7 bolts..I needed eight with washers as well, they only had 1 washer.  When did we as a nation have a shortage chrome???  Any way I went ot another Ace and the guy there didn’t have any, but tried to tell me the ones I purchased at the other ACE wasn’t correct.  He had the washers so I picked those up and traveled to the next ACE (they’re a lot like Walgreens..they’re on nearly every corner here in Tucson). 

Replacing the covers was about the same as removing them and while doing it I was very glad I didn’t use the permatex, most of it wouldn’t have made it on the covers or the engine.  I’m thinking at the GM factory they put the valve covers on before the AC and all the vacuum hoses and alternator…etc. 

Tomorrow I’ll  finish this up….well maybe…one more lesson was in store. 

Thanks for reading. 

Tim