Welcome back to Average Guys Car Restoration.
Rear shocks required a bit of “extra” work to install and sadly a few of natures creatures, need to find a new home. Take a look:
#ProjectSports Roof now has all new shocks. There is still so much to do…coming up next brakes and upholstery.
Thanks for stopping by!!
Tim
Bill’s correct, the drivers door hinges on #ProjectSportsRoof are bad. But now that he has perfected the art of door hanging, I’ll borrow his expertise and this Rest Door Hanger for getting the Mustang’s door perfect!!!
 Well protected against damaging the paint |
 floor jack with cradle removed and door support tool the Steck EZ Rest Door Hanger |
Coming up Bill gives a few tips on painting your hinges.
Thanks for stopping by!!
Tim
I’ve finally put the fuel issues to bed with fuel line insulated, crushed line repaired, fuel pump upgraded and now a new carb. Through the process I’ve eliminated vapor lock – video proof showed the issue was with the carb float. Final analysis is that the float was cracked, filled with fuel and failed to control the level of fuel in the bowl.
Now the new carb is 1406 Edelbrock which is a downgrade from 800 CFM to 600 CFM (1413 Edelbrock). The #ProjectSportsRoof is running well. However, I don’t think I’ll leave it with the the 600. The 800 was in bad shape. Maybe only 60 miles on it, but it sat for too long, with bad fuel and just cleaning it up didn’t work. Some say the 800 is too much for the 351C but I noticed a difference between the two carb so the 800 it going back for a professional rebuild and it will end up back on the SportsRoof.
Here is the removal of the 800 and the installation of the 600.
Thanks for checking.
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof, my RARE (snicker) 1973 SportsRoof Mustang (#SR73).
I’m catching up on the fuel issue with my 351 Cleveland.
I didn’t notice but in the last posting at the very end of the video when I’m attempting to start the car there is an issue with the carb. I totally didn’t catch it at the time nor did I see it in the video.
I really struggled with trying get a video on the removal and installation of the new Speedmaster Fuel pump. One of the hazards of working on a ‘semi-cool’ car like my Mustang – outside in the driveway, is that neighbors love to peek in on the status and of course chat. The installation had some many interruptions that the video was choppy and salvageable. I had some misgivings about the Speedmaster pump, more exactly the lack of support – no instructions for adjusting the configuration(which required disassembly to accommodate different applications and no specs on the fittings required). I did managed to get few tips and the after math. Here’s what it looked like:
Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73).
Tim
As I sorted out the fuel issues with my ’73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof) (#SR73) I was asked about the fuel system and what I used for reference.
I have all the manuals and specs with diagrams but the best I’ve found is from a a sales catalog. National Parts Depot has it laid out and labeled. You’ll have to excuse their SKU numbers but it’s a great resource.
Check it out: – OH I will have an update on the fuel issue coming up next, along with shocks and some other work being done on #SR73.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
Tim
So much work going on with my ’73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof, #SR73), new carb, brakes, shocks it would seem that there should be time for the smaller projects. But currently due to the pandemic supplies locally are focused on newer cars and the things that don’t sell quickly aren’t being stocked at the local auto parts stores. Most major parts have to be ordered and shipping times are Sooooooooooooooo Slooooooow, that there is time for these side project.
What better way to spend that time then to get the Mustangs shock tower braces ready for installation. Waiting until all or most of the engine work is done before actually installing them, because I don’t want work around them or keeping removing them to gain access to upper parts to the engine. But they need painting. I opted not to use the chrome plated option and go with steel and paint them myself.
Why bother adding Shock Tower Braces? Dude….for unibody chassis, like the early Mustang had (only sub-frames) they provide extra stiffness between the shocks. Helps keeps things from twisting when doing some “spirited” driving or on the track.
Here is the prep of the braces for my Mustang:
Also brakes and and upholstery coming for the big Stang.
Thanks for checking in.
Tim
As I shelter in place during the 2020 CoVid19 historic event (why didn’t they call it CovVid2020? that would have been cool…actually I really don’t care. m) I pondered many things. One of the most important ponderings (not a word) was the difference in body styles of the 1973 Mustangs like #ProjectSportRoof (#SR73).
According the all the numbers and confirmed by my Marti Reports (plug – the folks at Marti Auto Works are have access to soooo much Ford (and other brands) information. I always get their full set of reports and invoices/window stickers/data plates etc for my cars. That includes for my 1970 Mustang Coupe, my 2004 Ford SportTrac (pickup) and my 1973 SportsRoof – if you’ve never heard of them #1 Where you’ve been? and # 2 – Here ya go – https://www.martiauto.com.) #ProjectSportsRoof is a SportsRoof, not a Mach I. It’s body code is a 63D. As far as numbers goes that’s a good thing if you want/like unique. With only just over 10k produced (10,820 to be exact) my #SR73 is the lowest production body style for the last year of the Big Stangs. And we all know that – low production equals rare and rare equals more desire and more desire equals more value. (It doesn’t really – at least not always and not in this case…yet…check with me in about 100 years.) Just to give you the rest of the data, Mach I’s (body style 63R) numbers are over 35k – the 2nd highest. First highest is 2dr hard top (body style 65D) at 51,480, followed by Grande (body style 65F) at just over 25k, and by then the Convertible, body style 76D at 11,953.
The fact that there are different designations for the body styles (back to my pondering) what is the difference? I’m looking for the answers for at least the my 63D vs. 63R. Maybe even the between Grande (65F) and the 2dr hardtop (65D).
I think it would be “nice to know info”. For example all the welds on the SportsRoof were done by blind, one armed welders, using a mirror. (that’s not true…I don’t think!) I’d like to know that. There’s one response suggesting that they have a “…unique body code due to the added standard features.” Which is not specific enough. My SportsRoof came with Mach 1 interior package and slotted aluminum wheels those could be add by checking a box when ordering.
So I’ll keep send out quires and see if I can get anything more refined.
But the fact that my body designation is unique is cool. I have a habit of selecting unique cars. My 1970 Mustang was one of only about 11k produced that year, last of the medium sized Stangs. My 1984 Corvette was first year unique, for body style, engine, Z51 suspension and lowest drag coefficient windshield up to that point (yes…really).
If you think you know or have a guess drop me a note and I’ll update this post, or write a new one with and update.
Thanks for checking. Drop me a note!!
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof #SR73
#ProjectSportsRoof – 1973 SportsRoof #SR73
The title should say it all!!
Bill stopped by and we tweaked the timing and carb on #ProjectSportsRoof.
For the first time the stars of this blog are in the same Air Space!
Check it out!
Thanks for checking in!
Tim
I remember when you could go into a auto parts store and the clerks knew something about cars.
When I was a kid (back in the early 1970’s) my Dad owned a body shop. I’d work there on weekends (for …”the roof over you head”) and summers. I learned a lot about cars and enjoyed it (most of it). One of the coolest things was heading over the automotive parts and paint places. So much cool stuff to look at, paint books with paint chips in them, tools and gadgets. You could talk for an hour about the cars you were working on. If you asked a question they normally had a useful answer. If you wanted advice you would get some, sometime even if you did ask there was a good chance you’d get some. NAPA was big back then and had paint as well.
Those places are long gone now, mostly. Now no one has the parts in stock and worse most of the clerks have no idea about car parts (insert Rock Auto theme song) and there is nearly 100% reliance on a computer. There is just no way a parts clerk should utter the phrase “I can order it.” Oh and talk about your car project?…’fer getta bou it’!
This whine is was brought about by my recent purchase of a fuel pump for #ProjectSportsRoof (my 1973 351 Cleveland powered Mustang).
Normally, I don’t use names of companies but I’m going to now.
I purchased the Speedmaster fuel pump from Summit Racing Equipment. Speedmaster also has their own site where they sell these as well.
Specs:
Brand: Speedmaster
Manufacturer’s Part Number: PCE146-1014
Part Type: Fuel Pumps
Product Line: Procomp Electronics High-Volume Mechanical Fuel Pumps
Summit Racing Part Number: SDM-PCE146-1014
UPC: 840136507376
Fuel Pump Type: Mechanical
Flow Rate: 115 gph/435 lph
Fuel Pressure (psi): 6 psi
Fuel Pressure Regulator Included: No
Sending Unit Included: No
Inlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT —not
Inlet Quantity: One
Inlet Attachment: Female threads
Outlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT —not
Outlet Quantity: One
Outlet Attachment: Female threads
Gasket Included: No -actually yes 2 gaskets
Wiring Harness Included: No
Mounting Bracket Included: No
Mounting Hardware Included: No
Pulley Included: No
The pump is designed to be configurable to give the best fit possible. The pump showed up with no fittings – which I guess it normal now days. It also showed up with no instructions. Just the pump in the box and two gasket stuck under the bottom box flap. Instruction would have been nice if I need to swivel the IN/OUT.
I didn’t think the hardware would be a problem I could use the male end from the old pump and pick up the other at a local parts store. I figured that I’d double check their site for instructions just in case I need anything different, after all this pump pushed a bunch more fuel then the OEM version.
I went to Speedmaster’s web site and looked up the pump and clicked the instructions link. Nothing happened. I called the company to see if they could email me instructions. The ‘clerk’ said “We don’t have any instruction, but I do have diagram.” I prompt him with, “You don’t have instruction?” He confirmed. I said O.K. , send me the diagram, thinking to myself, that will have some information. Here is what I got:
Lets compare:
 This is my ome pump |
 This is the Speedmaster pump. |
Not seeing it!!!
So I called up Summit Racing Equipment and spend 1 hour 22 minutes on hold (I was editing video during that time). I was then requested to leave my number and a tech could text me back. 5 hours later….I get a text. I asked the question about instructions. The next day I get a text that says “It’s a pretty straight forward installation.” So I called. Summit again. I was on hold for 45 minutes and finally got someone to answer my question which was – what size it the OUT thread so I can get a fitting. (originally I thought I’d get the proper fitting for the flared steel line). Summit told me I shouldn’t use the steel line and to just get the male to 3/8 barb. I asked again what size threads? He said 3/4″ to 3/8″ barb. I ran to 3 Auto Parts stores and no one had this fitting. (That is the short version – most didn’t even know what I was talking about, much less knew if they had anything like that.) I order some from Amazon and they next day delivery with my Prime membership! They didn’t fit. So I found Speedmaster on Facebook and asked the question. Here is how that 3 day conversation went:
Speedmaster Automotive Parts Store
Tue 6:43 PM———————————————————–Note the time.
I purchased this: Brand: Speedmaster
Manufacturer’s Part Number: PCE146-1014
Part Type: Fuel Pumps
What size male fitting do I need from your pump to a 3/8 barb?
Tue 11:07 PM——————————————————————–Note the time
3/8 npt—————————————————————————Response
Wed 2:29 PM——————————————————————-Note time
38 npt to 38 barb?
3/8 npt to 3/8 barb (my correction)
No response
?
No response
(I called the Speedmaster again then Facebook messaged them)
Wed 4:12 PM————————————————————————Note time
I’m confused. Summit says 3/4 to 3/8 barb. I just talked to someone at your
location via phone they said 3/4npt. But 3/4 npt does not fit. If I didn’t already
have the pump in the car I’d return it and buy something that there with clear
instruction and well informed support. ….🙁
I’ll have to pick up both sizes tomorrow and I’ll get back to you on the actual size!
—————————————————————————————-NOTE LACK OF RESPONSE.
(My follow up to the chat)
Thursday 1:13 PM
Here is exactly what fitting is needed.
805NSED – 3/8 barb X 5/16 npt Hose Barb X Inverted Flare
Something you SHOULD know but
no one did. Don’t feel do bad even Summit, where I purchased it got it wrong.
#MissingTheGoodOldDays
Thanks for letting me whine!!!
Tim
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof.
I continue to chase down the fuel issues on my 73 Mustang’s 351 Cleveland.
Last time on the “Day of Discoveries” found the fuel line crushed. This is the repair video. WARNING: It is longer than normal with a few Average Guy tips. Link:
So kick back, give it a watch and drop me a comment or two!!
Thank you.
Tim
