In the last post I prepped #ProjectSportsRoof bolts and nuts for removal. I treated them twice a day for two days (sprayed with Liquid Wrench) in hopes they would be easier.
This post, I’m removing and install the new leaf springs. Pay attention to a couple of safety tips in the video.
Next up a test drive to see how the new springs preform.
Thanks for check in.
Tim
Thanks for stopping to take a peak at what is going on with #ProjectSportsRoof!!!
My 73 Mustang still has it’s original leaf springs and you can tell they are falling apart and sagging.
Several area were the spring is separating.
After a look at the old springs, not only are they sagging and separating they have been on since May 1, 1973 (only 47 years). Bolts are pretty rusted. Take a look:
Also the look for finishing up the seat upholstery that is coming shortly.
Tim
Thanks checking in. I’m finishing up the bottom of the rear bench seat in #ProjectSportsRoof. If you recall the original foam for my 73 Mustang was all one piece with a wire rod running along the seam where it folded. The new foam came in two pieces and did not have the wire. That wire rod was used for support and for creating the tucks for shaping. I had to find a way to make happen. Take a look:
To finish the back rest of the rear seat I’ll have to seek a professional as that portion of the kit does not fit properly and I won’t be able to make it fit. But don’t worry. I have the completed one of the front bucket seats and have of the other so you’ll see a bit more of the upholstery.
Also have some door work coming up, exhaust hangers to install and leaf springs.
Thanks for stopping by.
Tim
Here we go again.
Ordered Mr. Gasket valve cover gaskets on line from JEGS for #ProjectSportsRoof. Here is what I ordered:
This is how they fit:
So I have the car apart and thought, well let me try locally. Here is how that went.
Called local parts store.
First call: O’reilly’s Auto Parts how can I help you?
Me: I need valve cover gaskets for a 1972 Ford 351 Cleveland.
OAP: What kind of car?
Me: Doesn’t matter any Ford 351 Cleveland
OAP: I have to know the kind of car.
Me: Ford Mustang
OAP: I don’t find that listed here, let me change computers.
Me: OK…huh?
OAP: I can only find 1971 Mustangs in my system.
Me: Thank you. <click>
Second Call: Auto Zone how can I help you?
Me: I need valve cover gaskets for 1972 351 Cleveland.
AutoZ: What kind of car?
Me: Ford
AutoZ: Yes but what kind of car?
Me: Mustang
AutoZ: What is the engine size?
Me: 351 Cleveland – Not a Windsor
AutoZ: It is an automatic?
Me: That doesn’t matter.
AutoZ: Are you sure it’s 351?
2nd AutoZ guy: Sorry sir he’s new what can I get for you?
Me: Repeated everything above
2nd AutoZ guy: Yes, we don’t have them here but I can have them this afternoon
Me: These are for 351 Cleveland correct? Not a Windsor.
2nd AutoZ guy: Yes.
Me: Cool call me when them come in?
2nd AutoZ guy: Yes.
Show up 4 hours later. The valve cover gaskets were 2 inches too long.
Me: What are these for?
2nd AutoZ guy: I don’t know.
Me: Can you look up what I need?
2nd AutoZ guy: What was it?
Me: Repeated everything above.
2nd AutoZ guy: Is it an automatic?
Me: I gotta go.
Thanks for therapy !!
Tim
It’s been a while since I’ve been able to take my ’73 Mustang for a nice drive. Today was the day.
And to swap the passenger seat into the driver’s position until I can find the bottom seat frame and springs for the that side. But it worked great!
And don’t those new wheels look great? Yeah…I think so too!!!! I’m happy with the 15″ wheels!!! If you turn the volume you might catch how #ProjectSportsRoof sounds!
TURN IT UP!!
Still got a list of things to do. You’ll see most of it there!!!
Thanks for stopping by.
Tim
Pushing though the upholstery replacement on #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73), as you might expect from a car that is 47 years old, the seat supports need some help.
In this episode I’m working on the bottom rear seat and discovered that the metal tap that holds the end of one of the main springs was not fastened. Most likely a ‘miss’ at the factory.
Here’s a bit of an analysis for the seat springs and the fix for the tab:
I’ll be working on the spring in the next video and then move on to foam and the recovering.
Thanks for checking in.
Tim
Thanks for checking in!!
Progress is moving along with #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73 – what will be it’s new hash tag when it’s mostly done).
I’ll be focusing on the interior for a bit. As you’ve seen the floors were done some time ago with patch panel installed and a layer of heat and sound proofing and new carpet. I have the headliner to do (which I’m not looking forward too!!) and some dash work including these:
Mach I triple gauge center dash panel. I have a set of working gauges for it as well!!
One of the more time consuming is re-upholstering the sets so I’m tackling that while I’m still on break from teach, which really doesn’t give me much time (my district starts back in mid July), of course with all the on going issues (COVID19 and other stuff) we’ll see what happens.
Here is my introduction and quick plug for TMI, super quality products and the beginning of the work on the rear seat for my ’73 Stang.
Thanks for stopping by!!
Tim
I should have added “Sort of” in the title.
I really wanted to show the work on #ProjectSportsRoof. But a few things made that difficult. Top of that list was the 20 stitches gash I put in my knee, while trying to loosen the bolts on the bracket for the caliper.
So I’m piecing together some clips to include a couple of tips for installing the new calipers. So hang on this ride will be a little….choppy!!!
Check out the video:
Check back!
Tim
Every good saga needs an ending….even if it’s just terminated without a related solution.
So it is with #ProjectSportsRoof (my ’73 Mustang) brake saga. This all started when Bill – (#ProjectBeepBeep date) came over to help dial in the carb and timing on my 351 Cleveland. We discovered brake issues after taking the Mustang couple test drives. Front brake seemed to be doing all the work. It was clear that brakes need to be bumped up on the list of things “needing doing”.
Gathering all the parts was easy enough. As you now know that’s not true, the rear end had been frankenstein’ed and shoes were the main issue.
After thinking it over and I decided to go a different direction. Since the fronts were disc why not go disc in the back as well. I started hunting around for prices and options.
There is a lot out there in the back of my head was Bill’s fabulous adventure with converting #ProjectBeepBeep to disc. Prices very and so do configurations. There is even a set up where you have small set of brake shoes that perform the emergency brake function and the disc brakes. Like this:
There were also those that allowed the disc to handle the emergency braking.
I checked out all brands and all type. As I was looking a downloaded PDF from Master Power Brakes, I saw these:
Rear Drum Brake Conversion Kit: Legend Series Deciding to keep drum brakes on the rear of your vehicle is not a bad thing. What is a bad thing is not upgrading them to a system that makes sense. Our rear drum upgrade kit utilizes a large 11 inch drum, all new components and 1-1/8 inch wheel cylinders giving disc brake feel without the expense.
I have nothing against drum brake as they function (of course changing pads is easier then changing shoes). My 1970 Mustang used them just fine, even at the drag strip:
So read up a little more and decided to go with the Master Power Brakes’
Here’s a video:
These will bolt (you have to pull the axles) and they are 11″.
One side arrived already.
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I think it was a good choice. I’d love to show you the installation but I’m not. Pulling the axles is a messy job and outside temps are normally in the 100’s here in So. Az. It’ll need new seals and bearing, so #ProjectSportsRoof is going into the shop next week.
But don’t worry I have a few posts on the install of the new calipers for the front disc coming up.
Thanks for stopping by!!!
Tim
Oh well this is crazy…of course it would have been easier if I followed the old adage, measure twice – post once. I’ll get to that in a minute.
Every one of the parts house and everyone in one of the online forums and Facebook groups (including mine Average Guy’s Car Restorations and Projects) said the rear brake shoes for #ProjectSportsRoof were 10 inch by 2 inch. Maybe because that’s what the parts books said it should be so I went with that. I did a quick measurement of the shoes (not the drums).
Ordered the 10×2 and went to install them I noticed they seemed too small. I ordered a set from NPD and attempted to put them on, too small. Called them up and went over it with them. Together we thought they were just miss packaged. They comp’ed them and sent me another set. Check it out:
Those were (of course) the same as the last set. By chance I thought let me order a set from SummitRacing. Those too were too small.
Here a quick video:
Clearly there’s been a swap of some kind. Now if I had taken the measurements and done so thoroughly, I could have saved some frustration. Taking the shoes back and forth the local parts stores (more then one and more then one time) I found little help. I will say that CarQuest – which is way across town from my place, were the best at helping me track down the shoe size. The guys on 3 Facebook groups all were helpful…but I made a mistake there. I had mocked up the drums you see in the video just to show them the size difference. Well that led to a lot of post freaking out about the lack of auto adjuster parts – which aren’t necessary, if you don’t mind making the adjustments yourself, when you feel the braking a bit off – NOT RECOMMEND however for general/common drivers and the spring wouldn’t fit…because the shoe were too small to hold them in place I popped any spring that I could get on easily. As always you’ve a few condescending “experts” that missed the point of the pics/videos but that’s gonna happen on the web.
So the hunt began. I’ll fill you in on that in the next post and show you the measurements I “SHOULD” have taken.
Thanks for checking in!!
Tim
