This pretty cool. I found it on Reddit r/Mustang sub-directory. After I finish #ProjectSportsRoof – I may just build one of these!!!
Check out the well constructed LEGO ‘Stang:
These are the construction instructions:
http://www.sheepo.es/2014/01/ford-mustang-shelby-gt500-instructions.html
Thanks for reading.
Tim
1973 Mustang SportsRoof
I know, I’m getting slow at getting these posted for the 1973 Mustang, but here is the next part. I’m beginning the cuts on the repop floor panels.
Like I mention in the video, I”m doing this all in my driveway and garage – it can be done!!!! Unlike my 1970 Mustang (which started out in better shape) which most of the work on the body was complete, thanks in part to a careless young driver plowing into the back it at a stop light, in a body shop. While it was there I had the entire car painted.
I’m using a dremel to make the necessary cuts and the Work-Mate table allows a lot of angles to clamp down the sheet metal while I am cutting it. The painter’s blue tape works great as marking off the cuts and you don’t have to be ‘too’ precise, but you have to be close!!!
Here you can see the first cut. Now eventually I realized that I didn’t really need the ‘flap’ and I cut it off.
The ‘humps’ are actually where the seats bolt down and you have to keep clear of those with your sheet metal and welds.
More floor pan goodness for #ProjectSportsRoof.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof
restorable classic cars | Tumblr
1973 Mustang 351C Vacuum System Part II – YouTube
I haven’t done a Engine Mini-Series in sometime, I find readers like the Engine Line Up posts a lot, so I’ve stuck with that. They are quick and fun pieces to research and write.
SEE A NOTED DEVIATION IN THE COMMENTS BELOW.
I received a request from a reader (motown_missile) from the /r/classiccar subdirectory over on Reddit, who read my latest Engine Line UP post, for something on Ford small block V8’s specifically the 221, 260 and 289 engines. So I thought yeah that’s a great idea!!! But it didn’t really fit how I structure the Engine Line Up posts and then I recalled doing these mini-series and that fits the request. Thanks motown_missile!!!!
Now the Ford small block V8 label (also called the “90 Degree V8s”) covers a few rare engines (limited production/limited use), one of the most iconic and some real workhorses. The engines that fall under this designation are 221, 255, 260, 289 and yes the 302 and even the 351 Windsor (not the Cleveland). I’ll cover each one in separate posts.
The Ford small blocks were designed the end of the 1950’s put in to production cars in 1962 the first and smallest (20 inches across and only 475 lbs) and it displaced 221 cubic inches and so designated as the 221.
The 221, in 1962, had a compression ratio of 8.7:1 with a bore and stroke respectively of 3.50 x 2.87. It sported two-bolt main-bearing, cast nodular crankshaft (only 37 lbs), cast aluminum pistons, hydraulic camshaft and individually mounted iron rockers. The cylinder heads were wedge-shaped and the intake valves were 1.59 in. and the exhaust valves were 1.39 This was all topped off with a cast iron two barrel intake manifold and it produced about 143 hp @ 4,500 rmp and 217 foot lbs of torque @ 2200 rpm. For 1963 it remained about the same with a slight increase in the bore and stroke (3.75×3.30 inches) producing a compression ratio of 8.8:1 and 145 hp. Both years were topped with Holley carbs.
The 221 is one of the rarest small block. It saw only 2 years of production use (1962 and 1963) and you could find it in the Ford Fairlanes and Mercury Meteor. If you want to know if your 62-63 Fairlane or Mete0r originally had a 221 check the VIN for the code L ( C – 1962 export or 3 for 1963 export).
Nicely painted 221 V8
 1962 Mercury Meteor 33 |
 1963 Ford Fairlane |
Next up will be the 255.
Thanks for reading and if you have any input or pic of your own 221, drop me a note a AGCarRestoration@cox.net. Comments always welcome!!!
Tim
Out and About!!!
#ProjectSportsRoof
Hey, welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang). We are working through the rusted floor pans and I’m about to make the cut for removing rust from the right rear foot-well.
Quick note about the video sequence. As executive director, camera guy (well smart phone guy) and film editor (is that still a real thing?), I don’t always plan out the steps like you might see on a TV show. (There goes my chances of being on Counting Cars – I’ve got a better chance of being a walk-on-the-set zombie on the Walking Dead – I love both of those shows!!!! ) Perfect example is in the next few posts and videos. Instead of stripping out all the carpeting, I made a cut along the tunnel on the right side and just removed that carpet. You can clearly see that. Then I removed the rust from the foot-well (you’ll see that below) and then worked on cutting the re-pop floor patch.
That went so well, I felt confident enough to remove the driver’s seat and the rest of the carpeting. So when I show that video you’ll notice both patch panels on the right side are fitted. There just no ‘do overs’ on this project.
Here are the next two videos. By the way you can see all the videos on my YouTube channel just search for #ProjectSportsRoof and you’ll find most of them.
Once again in the video I mention getting the replacement pan for under the rear seat – above the muffler. However, as I mentioned previously that portion of the floor is not reproduced.
More floor panel work coming up. If you have comments or tips/hints use the comment box below. Love to hear from you.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof
Out and About!!!
#ProjectSportsRoof
You just have to read the entire article and then seem my comments.
I make no judgement (like some of the other commenters) on whether Aaron is a “real car guy”, in fact I’m sure he is a ‘car guy’ – just one of ‘THOSE’ car guys. (If you are a real car guy you’ll know what I mean).
Courtesy of BMW By Aaron Miller @aaron_m_miller
I’m going to take a lot of heat for what I’m about to say. While no manufacturer can expressly admit it, behind closed doors, deep within the bunkers in Detroit, Munich, Stuttgart, and Tokyo, most engineers will nod in agreement. With enough soul searching, quite a few of my fellow automotive writers will find themselves agreeing, too. The visceral allure of the manual transmission as we know and love it isn’t….
Source: Let’s Admit It: Manual Transmissions Need to Go
Thanks for reading.
Tim
07 and 73
The last three post we basically a run down of the extent of the rust damage in the floor pan areas on #ProjectSportsRoof. As you saw the right side was bad, especially the under the rear seat on that side and the left side not as bad. Interesting enough it ended up being about the same work for both foot wells and a lot work for the whole under the rear seat. (You’ll notice in at least one of the videos I mentioned that all I needed to do was to buy the panel for under the rear seat – but I was wrong. Those just are reproduced. What I ended up doing was purchasing a 3rd foot well pan and “modifying” that to get the whole patched.)
As this is my first time actually doing floor pans, I did a lot of “making sure” up front work to limited the size of the mistakes I might make. Last thing I needed to do was cut in the wrong place or make the opening to big. As you know the Mustangs of that era only had sub-frames and the floor for the most part were what held them together. A major screw up there and you’ve weakened the structure and then it’s body off complete floor replacement – NOT IN THE BUDGET!!!
Here’s some of the preliminary work.
So of course there isn’t a rear panel (see above) and the drain in the panel is not plugged with a rubber stopper, but with a metal screw down plate – sealed with seam sealer.
I worked the left side first (some I could keep the car mobile – for pulling in and out of the garage) so I left the driver’s seat and most of the carpet in place.
Coming up is the first cuts of the right side floor pan and fitting of the replacement panel.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof
As with most car restoration projects discovering what needs to be worked on and to what extent is an experience to say the least. Sometimes that discovery is a bit disheartening like the rust to floor pans on the right side, sometimes is a major relief and sometimes it’s cool.
As I began removing carpet – which I’m now sure was 33 years old, it uncovered the normal dirt, pens, papers (no build sheet… bummer) and just about all the normal things that slide between the seat cushions and work their way under the carpet. That can show a lot about its previous owners and how the car was used.
Among these things are coins and #ProjectSportsRoof had an abundance of lost change. The first coin I found was a nickel. It was under the underlayment which I found to be a tough place for nickel to have worked its way. Interesting enough it was dated 1973.
1973 Jefferson Nickel. Placed by a a worker at the factory? hmmmm….
This reminded me of an often told tail of auto workers leaving tokens of some sort in an inconspicuous place. Wouldn’t that be interesting.
Over all nearly $30.00 in coins were found and of those 3 were from 1973 (a nickel, a quarter and a penny). With a huge cap between 1979 and the 2005 (perhaps indicating it’s break in service when the car was left in a field, junked and then saved.
Someone in the Ford factory back in the day leave this 1973 Jefferson nickel so that someone years later might find it? Interest thought!!!
Thanks for reading.
Tim
Thanks for following along with #ProjectSportsRoof. Over the next couple of weeks (giving myself a lot of time to get this all down in the blog) I’m going to take you through my process for repairing the floors in the 1973 Mustang. I’ll be interrupted by (air quotes)REAL (end air quotes) work and a couple of car shows between now and then.
As much as I’d like to say I was aware of the rust on the floor of the Sports Roof, I can’t. I really missed seeing the extent of the damage. Needless to say I was a bit depressed when I brought it home and climbed in the back seat and notices the floor seemed a bit….’crunchy’.
Take a look at these videos:
You might be able to tell by my voice that I wasn’t overjoyed with the condition of the passenger side floor. To make matters worse I eventually found out they don’t reproduce a patch for under the rear seat for the 1973 Sports Roof. More to come on that in a future post.
Just to issue a reminder as you might be wondering why you see the back seat now in the car as in the previous video it was out, but my goal is to have this as a rolling project and able to at least speed on down to the local petrol station fill it up and grab a Pepsi. (You just can’t work on a car without a Pepsi!!! – Hey maybe they’ll sponsor this rebuild and I’ll change the license plate to read “1973DrinkRealSugarPepsi”.)
O.K. so if you were listening closely you’d realize that I started the floors back in Dec (2015) and it’s now the last day of the Feb 2016 and I’m just getting to post this up now. So it’s taken me a good chunk of time to do this all by hand – including all the cutting with just a hand-held dremel and some metal snips.
I appreciate any and all comments so let ’em fly!!!!
BTW day on this Leap Year day – we’ve surpassed 20,000 registered user on this blog, thanks everyone!!!
Thanks for reading.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof
This will be a longer post as I finish up the vacuum system on #ProjectSportsRoof, the 1973 Mustang Sports Roof. We have to make a repair, hose to the master cylinder, charcoal filter, and the transmission.
Take a look at the broken vacuum “T”:
So from the broken “T” I moved to the master cylinder and then to the transmission and finished off with the charcoal canister.
One final task to finish up the vacuum system and that is the charcoal canister that is supposed to catch the fumes from the gas tank.
Back at the beginning I mentioned that I need to get this done because the Stang was coming due for its renewal and smog check. Just a couple of days after finishing I planned driving over to the emissions testing facility and I got my renewal notice via email. Here in AZ you can register you car online after you pass your smog check. The notices normally tell you that a an emissions test is required. My said “No Emissions” required!!!!!!! Well the vacuum system needed tending too anyway and now it’s check off the list.
Thanks for reading
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. We beginning the actual work on the vacuum system on the projects 351C starting with the valve assembly distributor (the valve on the water pump. Here is a pic:
Here is the video:
As always when I’m holding the camera and recording I miss a few things, like there are only two vacuum connections on the valve assembly distributor and the vacuum hoses I referred to at the end go to the charcoal canister – that supposedly filters gas fumes.
Here are the clamps I used.
I’ve got more coming up on the vacuum system and then we’ll jump into the floor pans.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
#ProjectSportsRoof
www.agcarrestoration.com
