I’m shaking down the partial rebuild of the 1972 351 Cleveland in my 1973 Mustang dubbed, #ProjectSportsRoof (originally called SR-73, but reader keep asking me if could do MACH 4+ …yea, I didn’t think it was funny either). New cam, lifters, rods and a few other things, need to be giving a good working out. However, fuel issues have popped up.
Suspected vapor lock, but not sure, so I’m taking it one step at time. Step one insulate the gas line from the block. Here’s the video and results. I could have edited a bunch out but I wanted the viewers to see it as it happened – in this case it’s more like HEAR it. This is my way of saying the video is ….um…not great!! Watch the video and then give me your opinion on which option below you want me to try next.
Some of those options are?
1. Fuel Pressure test (because it might not be vapor lock)
2. Another option is to install an Electric Fuel Pump near the tank. This pressurizes most of the fuel in the lines. Fluid under pressure is harder to vaporize.
3. Other options include installing a Phenolic Carb Spacer and/or a Carburetor Heat Shield to keep the carburetor cool.
4. Swap from an 850CFM to 750 or 650CFM Carb (because it might not be vapor lock)
Find the comment box and let me know which one you want to see attempted or email me at AGCarrestoration@cox.net.
Vapor lock. What is it, why does it happen and how to tackle and solve the problem. We are going to do it together!
My 1973 Mustang with the newly re-constructed engine has gladly stepped up and volunteered to be our test subject. (Sarcasm or dismay? You decide!)
Where to start? Let’s go from the discovery of the problem to the possible causes to the possible solutions.
Took the gray beast out for another shake down run. I ran down the to local auto parts store, about a 3 mile drive and it was a spirited drive. I was searching for a bolt for the passenger side seat, some how misplaced the original when I was putting the new floor panels and carpet in. I was in the store for 8 minute top – they aren’t as friendly as they use to be. Use to be you would show up and chat up everyone and discuss what you were working on. These days you are lucky to find someone that knows what a bolt is. (Sorry but that’s almost true!!) As of this writing we are still in COVID19 lock down…(don’t judge me….I really needed that bolt!!!) and they were even less friendly. Sorry…I digressed. (O.K., if I was really sorry I’d go back and remove this, so lets just consider it “color” and not digression).
After 8 minutes (most of that as the clerk silently pawed through some bolts in the back), I returned to the Mustang and turned the key. It started hard – 4-5 tries. On the drive back it kept feeling like she wasn’t getting gas. Temporarily losing a bit of power. Got home lifted the hood and I could hear the gurgling in the carb.
Here are some specs on the 1972 351 Cleveland that is in my 1973 body:
351C V2
The block is bored out .o4o make it 4.040″
Crank machined .020 under.
Topped with a Edelbrock Performer intake and 1413 800 CFM 4bbl Carb.
Just replaced the cam with Comp Cam FC 268H-10 grind.
— Gross Valve Lifit .494 Intake and .494 Exhaust
— Duration .006 tappet lift 268 for both Intake and Exhaust
— Valve Timing @.006
—Intake Opent 28.0 and BTDC Closed 60.0 ABDC
— Exhaust opent 28.0 and BBDC Closed 20.0 ATDC
Installed Specs
@106.0 Intake center line
Duration @ .050 Intake 219 Exhaust 219
Lobe lift Intake .2860 and the same for Exhaust
Lobe separation 110.0
What is vapor lock?
Vapor lock causes a car to stop running when the fuel in the system overheats. It is most likely to happen when driving on hot days and in stop-and-go traffic. (It was only in the upper 80’s that day) Constant acceleration and deceleration makes your engine work harder, causing it to run hotter. (I was doing a bunch of accelerating – da!) Excess heat causes the fuel to vaporize. This keeps the fuel from reaching the engine.
Many carbureted engines have fuel pumps located near or next to the engine. (Yup!) The pump’s closeness to the engine, as with some T-types, causes the fuel in the line to become very hot. When heated, fuel turns to a vapor, like water turns to steam when boiled. This process is hastened by the vacuum created in the line as the fuel is sucked into the engine.
When the fuel turns to vapor, the fuel pump can no longer move it through the system. As a result, the fuel doesn’t get to the combustion chambers; the car runs roughly; or it dies. Meanwhile, the car will not restart or will continue to have problems if it does.
So, the main cause is over heated fuel and I’m guess hearing it boiling in the carb is clearly not a positive thing. Other cause could be:
— portions of the fuel line are to close to the engine or exhaust causing the over heating.
— to large of a carb leaving extra gas sitting in the bowls, being heated.
So, first I want check the positions of the lines. Check out the video.
There is only the one area that could be the problem and that is from the fuel pump to the carb. I pick up some Vapor Block
Fuel Line Split Sleeve by DEI. So I’m gong to wrap that area. We’ll see what happens, so check back
I’m not a “huge” numbers matching guy, but there are a few cars that I think we should always try to keep their original power plants. Corvettes are one of those cars and Mustang – mostly.
My 1984 Corvette had the much loved (by much loved, I mean hated) GM CrossFire engine (with all of it’s 205 hp). It was a huge pain. I must have rebuild those injectors 5 times in the course of my ownership but there just weren’t that many CrossFires left out there.
So Corvettes should retain there original engines and the same is true as I mentioned some Mustangs. Clearly not with my 1970 Mustang that was born with a 250, six cylinder with dealer installed under-the-dash A/C. It wasn’t going to cut it. Turn on the A/C and you had a peddle car. I didn’t stray to far, I ordered 302 long block, bored .030. I caught some flack from the local Ford 6 cylinder crew for the swap…but it might have been because I didn’t offer them the tired old 250. I donated it to young kid was learning at a local shop and needed a engine to work on. You can see a lot of those details right here on my blog. Entirely different story with #ProjectSportsRoof (1973 Mustang). It’s a 351 Cleveland and there aren’t many of those left out there. I rebuild the engine a year and 1/2 ago. Just had a lifter go rouge (with only 250 miles on the rebuilt) It now has a new comp cam lifters and rods. For less than 1/2 of all that was spend I could have dropped in 400hp Windsor crate engine, but I just couldn’t.
I read an account, on Facebook siting TMZ as the source (yes there are 3 problem there, first it’s on Facebook, second it’s TMZ and third it’s TMZ), that the guy driving Kevin Hart’s Cuda is suing Kevin and in turn Kevin is suing SpeedKore for not having enough/proper safety equipment. Specifically, that the car didn’t have airbags or safety harnesses.
The post goes on to lament the concern that this case may lead California to require that all classic cars be outfitted with current safety equipment. Should that be the case then classic car collecting and driving would become affordable to just about everyone. Unfortunately, that might not be that much of a stretch.
This brought several thoughts to mind that I’ll share.
I’ve raced my cars, my 1970 Mustang appeared in several charity drag races. Both of my Corvettes were auto crossed informally (car club sponsored and in SCCA events. ) One of the keys is understanding the ability and power of the car and your driving ability!!!
At one event a fellow car club member had just purchased a C6 Z06 Corvette with 600 plus hp. He was a newbie when it came to Corvettes and horse power. In his first auto cross he lost control of his Corvette and drove through a fence at a well known race course/school here in Arizona. He had no idea the power of the car and turned off the traction control, something newbies should never do.
Now, I don’t know the driving experience of the guy driving Kevin’s Cuda, nor do I know what driving skills Kevin Hart has for such a powerful car, but I guessing very little for both. At least not enough to request a proper harness be installed. Of course, if you have the money, you can spend it on anything your “heart” desires, but should you? Should you by a powerful device without the proper skill set to operate it? I’ve owned and fired weapons before, I guess purchasing an armored personnel carrier with a .50 caliber M2 machine gun and a 40 mm Mk 19 automatic grenade launcher should be fine. I can drive a truck and have fired M16s….ya…I’m good.
Point is you must understand the car’s capabilities as well your skill level and respect it’s power and what that can do.
My second thought is related to regulations restricting the equipment and driving for classic cars. There is a continued eroding of protections for the hobby and the industry. With knuckleheads like Kevin and his friends we could be doomed.
There are small organizations out there lobbying to protect/preserve the rights to own, collected and drive this cars. But I fear that they are too small and under funded to mount a long term fight.
Kevin, you are very funny guy and I enjoy your shows, but this is not funny.
After taking the #ProjectSportsRoof out for a power test and having the distributor die, I discovered that the head gasket on the left side did not hold.
So in this video I’m attempted to re-torque and see where that takes me. Oh and then there was a small issue upon restarting.
The other day I was reading, yet another list of cars that someone had owed. Of course that always makes me think of my past rides (in some cases losses). I’ve recently lost my C6. Long story. Short version – catastrophic transmission/clutch failure (while racing) and a small fire in the rear. So the C6 is added to my list of past rides.
Today as I was running some errands in my red Ford Sports Trac, I was trying to recall how many red cars I’ve owned. So here the list of cars and colors.
1. 1966 Chevy Impala Vert, 283, automatic – Red
2. 1969 Dodge Dart, 318, 3 speed manual – Blue
3. 1970 Chevelle, 350, automatic – White
4. 1971 Buick Skylark – 350 automatic – White
5. Two Toyota Celica – blue/silver blue
6. 1974 Ford Torino, Cobra Jet, automatic – blue
7. 1984 C4 Corvette – 305 Crossfire, Automatic – Red
8. 1970 Ford Mustang – Bored .o40 302, 4 speed manual – White
Valve gasket installed, zinc added and now it’s time for quick power test. I have yet to get the pedal to the floor and now it’s time and I took the captured the fun….and…well…take a look:
You can hear how awesome the SR73 sounds and power was substantial. Of course the quick trip ended in a less than optimal way. The first effort of the power test was successful, that wasn’t captured. I turned the phone on for the second and you can hear that. I had intended a third power sprint but SportsRoof had a different idea. I could feel it start to surge and then nothing. There was no noise, a brief sputter, like perhaps it flooded (entirely possible as the carb is a bit bigger then it should be). I coasted it to the side of the street.
A quick troubleshooting proved that the car was still getting fuel but would not start. After setting for a bit still not firing up. I suspect distributor. When I have time I’ll dig into.
Maybe one of the worse task to tackle on a car is the heater core. In particular on some older cars. In most cases you have to remove the entire dash. I know this because when the heater core sprung a leak in my 1974 Cobra Jet Torino, I didn’t …
This is the last post related to prepping the 351 Cleveland in #ProjectSportRoof for removal. Originally, I had planned to lift the engine out with the carb still attached. However, after the first test fit to see how the Duralast leveler (I’ve never used one before – last engine I pulled …
Welcome back to Project Sports Roof (#ProjectSportsRoof). The struggle is real!!! You saw in the last video my replacement of the linkage that was lost by the repair shop (along with my new battery and started). This repair shone the light (as often happens with older cars) on a previous …
In the two videos below I talk about valve cover gaskets, the current lack of experts at your local parts store, and online “No Help” clerk and a recommendation for the Mustangs regular dosage of Zinc – not in table form for the Mustang’s 351 Cleveland!!!
If you look back at #ProjectSportsRoof post you’ll see the condition engine bay. During those videos I mentioned that I was going to clean it up and hit it with a rattle can. Again this isn’t going to be a concours restoration, it’s going to look nice and it’s going …
Thanks for checking on #ProjectSportsRoof. So here is the last set of initial questions. Here is an image of the current set up: Any diagram I find has the hose vacuum from the Distr going to the Valve assy. The Valve assy has nothing attached which is located on the front …
