Lift Classic Mustangs and Avoid Suspension Damage

How To Chassis Suspension

Lift Classic Mustangs and Avoid Suspension Damage

Lift it Right: Raising classic Mustangs on a lift requires a special tool to avoid shock and strut rod bushing damage

Jerry Heasley
December 6, 2016

Anytime you need work on the suspension on anything under a Mustang you have to lift it in the air, whether on a floor jack or a lift. But what you might not have ever heard is that raising a 1965-1973 Mustang on a regular two-post lift without a support between the upper control arm and the frame rail will damage the shocks and strut rods. There’s no telling how many times over the last 50-odd years of lifting a Mustang for a simple oil change that possibly has broken shock and strut rod bushings. The numbers must be in the millions.

Ford supplied dealers with a factory service tool, which they also used on the assembly line, to support the front suspension. Without this support, lifting the car drops the front suspension down and places all that weight on the front shocks and strut rod bushings. This damage is much more than cosmetic. The car will now be unstable at speed, more or less depending on the severity of the damage. Maybe one gentle lift will not result in visible damage, but with multiple unsupported lifts, the damage gets worse.

Bob Perkins of Perkins Restoration (www.perkinsrestoration.com) showed us how to avoid busting out shock tower and strut rod bushings when raising a Mustang on a conventional, two-post lift—or any lift with side arms.

01. This 1973 Mustang front suspension drops and “hangs free” when raised on a two-post lift. This lift picks up the car with arms at the side for access to the undercarriage.

02. Most of these Ford suspension support tools from the 1960s and 1970s have disappeared. Ford shop manuals instructed mechanics to place this support between the upper arm and the frame side rail. Notice the notch on one end. This original suspension support tool has a Ford part number.

03. Because original support tools are scarce, Bob Perkins has fabricated his own for everyday use. On the left are two supports he made. On the right is an original Ford support tool from the 1960s.

04. This illustration from Ford’s 1965 Mustang shop manual shows where to place the support tool when lifting a Mustang on a lift with side arms. The shock is inside the coil spring on top of the upper control arm.

05. The Perkins-built suspension tool, as seen on this 1973 model, fits between the frame rail (bottom) and the upper control arm under the ball joint. To install, first lift the car enough for the tool to fit.

06. Bob Perkins shows us damage to this shock on a car that was lifted without a support tool. The suspension dropped down and tore the rubber bushings in the top of this original shock.

07. Installing a support tool also protects strut rod bushings from damage.

08. On 1965-1970 Mustangs, the shock bushing at the top is apt to break when the suspension falls without support.

09. Likewise, the shock bushings in the 1971-1973 shock tower will have to absorb the weight of the front suspension if the support tool is not used.

Sources

Perkins Restoration

Juneau, WI 53039
920-696-3788
www.perkinsrestorati…

I thought that was a great article.
Thanks for reading.
Tim
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73 Mustang Lifters Adjustment

Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof.  My goal to get the engine by Christmas is in jeopardy, so I need to get cranking on getting it all back together.

There’s been a few set back – like losing a couple of bolts that had to be ordered.  A career change has slowed me down some as well.  But I’d like to have the engine in by Christmas and driving it by the end of Jan. 2017.

So, as my self-imposed deadlines are coming fast, I picked up with the adjusting the lifters.  Here how that looked:

 


These will have to be adjusted several times when after it’s run a bit.

Coming up next I have to put the intake on, carb, distributor, fuel pump, so check back and see the progress. Grab my feed and you’ll get notified when I up date the progress.

Thanks for reading.
Tim

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1973 Mustang – Engine Bay Work

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73 Mustang Heater Box Part 7 – The Seals & Foam Kit

Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof.   In this clip we are taking a look at the Seals and Foam Kit for restoring the 1973 Mustang’s heater and A/C box.

 


Next few heater box posts will be putting it back together. I know…exciting…!!!

Thanks for reading.

Tim

 

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1973 Mustang – Engine Bay Work

If you look back at #ProjectSportsRoof post you’ll see the condition engine bay.  During those videos I mentioned that I was going to clean it up and hit it with a rattle can.  Again this isn’t going to be a concours restoration, it’s going to look nice and it’s going to get driving and it’s going to sound awesome and yes it will be entered in to local car shows and a trip now and then down the strip!!!

Here is the engine bay work.

Here is the right side?

Right side - Before

Right side – Before

shocktowerrt

Right side shock tower – painted in Ford Blue

rightside-after

Right Side After

One more After

One more after for the right side

 

Here is the left side:

leftside-before2

Left side after

Left Side After

Left Side After

Left Side Shock Tower

Left Side Shock Tower

Here a quick little video showing the wire work in the engine bay.


I’ve got a a little more work up near the firewall before I’m done.

Still have a little more electrical work to do as well.

Coming up more on the heater box and final components going on the 351C.

Thanks for reading.
Tim

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73 Mustang Heater Box Part 6 – Fiberglass Work

Thanks for checking back in on #ProjectSportsRoof.  If you recall there was a lot of damage to the heater box, but rather than purchase a new one I opted to see if I could repair this original.

As of this post I’ve cleaned up the box and used JB Weld to put the pieces back in place and I’m ready to apply some fiberglass to harden everything up.

Here is a look at the fiberglass work.


What’s coming up next on the heater box work is a good look at the kit that you can buy that has some of the rubber seals, clips and replacement pads for the internal air flow doors.  We are going to install those and but the box back together.  I know you are on the edge of your seat for that one.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

1973 Mustang – Project Sports Roof – Fender Fitment Part II

In these next two videos, you’ll see just how ‘off’ these fenders are in some areas and surprisingly how well they fit in other areas. If you have an experience or a hit for anyone taking on this part of a restoration – drop a comment here and we’ll share them. https://youtu.be/Ga9EHbDpSfg     https://youtu.be/FBKs7EG4kK0   Thanks …
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73 Mustang Heater Box Part 5 – Clean Up

I know…I know…it’s a bit of let down moving back to the heater box for #ProjectSportsRoof when the beautiful 351 Cleveland that’s going to power the 73 Mustang is sitting in the garage waiting to roar back to life, but the heater box has to get done.

As I showed you in the previous heater box post is was pretty much a mess.  So after accessing the damage and apply epoxy to the broken pieces, I needed to clean it up before applying the fiberglass.  Here’s a little look at that:

 

I need give a bit of caution here when doing the cleaning.  Take a look at the part numbers on the heater box:

heaterbox-datecode

Those number are no longer there.  The Simple Green clean removed them.   I’ll mention again that this is not a concourse restoration, but nonetheless it’s always sad when you change or remove something that original that didn’t need to be.  Yes it’s just the heater box and not something anyone is going to notice, but I know it’s gone as do you and all 17k members of this blog.

Coming up next on AG Car Restoration is fiberglass repair of the heater box and maybe I’ll sneak in sometime on the Cleveland.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

postmach-2

 

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Jul 19, 2016 Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. This the beginning of rebuild of the 351 Cleveland for the 73 Mustang.

 

 

1973 Mustang 351 Cleveland is BACK!!!

We interrupt this Heater Box restoration for an important announcement.

THE 351 CLEVELAND IS BACK!!!

postmach-1 postmach-2
postmach-3 postmach-4

The main piece of this project if finally complete. 

Here’s what we have now:
351C bored .040
Crank .020 and Stock cam
Flattop pistons
Double Roller Timing Chain

Here’s what I’m going to add:
Edelbrock 4bbl CARB 800 CFM ELEC CHOKE
Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold

Heads have been restored and upgrade as follows:
Bronze valve guide, stainless 1 piece valves,  MATCHING retainers, a proper 3 angle valve job,
springs matched to cam and set up to proper height and pressure checked and hardened seats.

Here a more complete look:


The change in the bore only increased the CID (Cubic Inch Displacement) from 352 – 358 and that’s not a lot.  But keep in mind that this is a 1972 engine and the 351C with a 4bbl carb was rated at 285 bph @ 5400 rmps (The Boss 351 was rated at 330bhp @ 5400).    So I’m guessing with the Crank .020 milled, Edelbrock 4bbl  800 CFM, Edelbrock Performer 2750 Intake Manifold and the slight change in displacement that the horse power of this 1972 Cleveland will be about 300 hp – maybe.

Keep checking back as I have to finish the heater box, engine bay and the top half of the 351C.  Lots of fun coming up!!!

Thanks for reading.

Tim

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1973 Mustang Heater Box Part 4

With the heater box for #ProjectSportsRoof out form under the dash, I now have to do the repairs and replace the heater core.

Here’s what needs to be done and I pull the heater core.

 


Coming up is the fiberglass work to fix and seal up the heater box.

Thanks for reading.
Tim

newprimedhood

#ProjectSportsRoof

 

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1973 Mustang Heater Box Part 3

Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof.  I’m working on the heater box and it is now out from under the dash.

Although the box was easy to remove, unfortunately that might have been because the two brackets that hold the unit to the firewall were broken and dropped down only hanging by the A/C block still sticking through slot in the firewall.

Take a look:

 

 The rust isn’t too bad.  I’ll clean that up and see how much damage exist, cut out what I can and make a patch for it.   You can clearly see the condition of the brackets and the box.

Coming up next I attempt the repairs.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

newprimedhood

 

Average Guy’s Car Restorations, Mods, and Racing

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73 Mustang 351 Cleveland Rebuild – Removal 2 – YouTube

Jul 27, 2016 Prepping the engine and engine bay for removing #ProjectSportsRoof power plant.
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1973 Mustang Heater Box Part 2

I’m finishing the labeling of the components for the heater box before I pull it out.  These videos help with replacing any “left over” parts and memory joggers.

Unfortunately I did discover an area of rust and that is never a good thing!!!

Take a look:

 

 

Coming up next the box comes out and we take a good look at it.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

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Thanks checking back in with the 1973 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof). I’m moving right along with getting the progress on the 351C tear down posted up.
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Aug 9, 2016 Finally #ProjectSportsRoof gives up it engine. Thanks to my neighbor Dan Thomas for helping me getting this out.
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