Bill’s correct, the drivers door hinges on #ProjectSportsRoof are bad. But now that he has perfected the art of door hanging, I’ll borrow his expertise and this Rest Door Hanger for getting the Mustang’s door perfect!!!
 Well protected against damaging the paint |
 floor jack with cradle removed and door support tool the Steck EZ Rest Door Hanger |
Coming up Bill gives a few tips on painting your hinges.
Thanks for stopping by!!
Tim
I’ve finally put the fuel issues to bed with fuel line insulated, crushed line repaired, fuel pump upgraded and now a new carb. Through the process I’ve eliminated vapor lock – video proof showed the issue was with the carb float. Final analysis is that the float was cracked, filled with fuel and failed to control the level of fuel in the bowl.
Now the new carb is 1406 Edelbrock which is a downgrade from 800 CFM to 600 CFM (1413 Edelbrock). The #ProjectSportsRoof is running well. However, I don’t think I’ll leave it with the the 600. The 800 was in bad shape. Maybe only 60 miles on it, but it sat for too long, with bad fuel and just cleaning it up didn’t work. Some say the 800 is too much for the 351C but I noticed a difference between the two carb so the 800 it going back for a professional rebuild and it will end up back on the SportsRoof.
Here is the removal of the 800 and the installation of the 600.
Thanks for checking.
Tim
Here is a quick update on my 73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof, #SR73):
Lots coming up so check back!
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof, my RARE (snicker) 1973 SportsRoof Mustang (#SR73).
I’m catching up on the fuel issue with my 351 Cleveland.
I didn’t notice but in the last posting at the very end of the video when I’m attempting to start the car there is an issue with the carb. I totally didn’t catch it at the time nor did I see it in the video.
I really struggled with trying get a video on the removal and installation of the new Speedmaster Fuel pump. One of the hazards of working on a ‘semi-cool’ car like my Mustang – outside in the driveway, is that neighbors love to peek in on the status and of course chat. The installation had some many interruptions that the video was choppy and salvageable. I had some misgivings about the Speedmaster pump, more exactly the lack of support – no instructions for adjusting the configuration(which required disassembly to accommodate different applications and no specs on the fittings required). I did managed to get few tips and the after math. Here’s what it looked like:
Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73).
Tim
As I sorted out the fuel issues with my ’73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof) (#SR73) I was asked about the fuel system and what I used for reference.
I have all the manuals and specs with diagrams but the best I’ve found is from a a sales catalog. National Parts Depot has it laid out and labeled. You’ll have to excuse their SKU numbers but it’s a great resource.
Check it out: – OH I will have an update on the fuel issue coming up next, along with shocks and some other work being done on #SR73.
Hope this helps.
Thanks
Tim
So much work going on with my ’73 Mustang (#ProjectSportsRoof, #SR73), new carb, brakes, shocks it would seem that there should be time for the smaller projects. But currently due to the pandemic supplies locally are focused on newer cars and the things that don’t sell quickly aren’t being stocked at the local auto parts stores. Most major parts have to be ordered and shipping times are Sooooooooooooooo Slooooooow, that there is time for these side project.
What better way to spend that time then to get the Mustangs shock tower braces ready for installation. Waiting until all or most of the engine work is done before actually installing them, because I don’t want work around them or keeping removing them to gain access to upper parts to the engine. But they need painting. I opted not to use the chrome plated option and go with steel and paint them myself.
Why bother adding Shock Tower Braces? Dude….for unibody chassis, like the early Mustang had (only sub-frames) they provide extra stiffness between the shocks. Helps keeps things from twisting when doing some “spirited” driving or on the track.
Here is the prep of the braces for my Mustang:
Also brakes and and upholstery coming for the big Stang.
Thanks for checking in.
Tim
Thanks for checking back on #ProjectSportsRoof.
I continue to chase down the fuel issues on my 73 Mustang’s 351 Cleveland.
Last time on the “Day of Discoveries” found the fuel line crushed. This is the repair video. WARNING: It is longer than normal with a few Average Guy tips. Link:
So kick back, give it a watch and drop me a comment or two!!
Thank you.
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportRoof, the on going saga of my 1973 Mustang Sports Roof.
I have a lot of projects going on with ProjectSportsRoof, mainly because it NEEDS a lot work. Plus the whole COVID19 thing has parts on back order and shipping delays, blah, blah, blah!
I ordered a new fuel pump and the project shipping date was Oct 2020….canceled that order. Found one that was in stock and shipped in 3 days – DONE!
So as I wait for that important part, I figured I’d replace the front shocks, which by the way were on back order for 2 weeks. Turns out it was a good idea, as it uncovered an issue that might help solve a current problem…you’ll see!!
Now, I didn’t show you my step by step removal and installation, shocks are pretty straight forward. Here’s the video (BTW I don’t normally do a sit down chat but I did today):
Thanks for checking in!
Tim
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof – my 351C powered 73 Mustang Sports Roof!
I’m pressing on with tracking down the cause of the frequent stalling of the bored .040 351C.
I suspected vapor lock, but with the fuel line insulated against the heat of the manifold and block, I didn’t get the ‘boiling’ sound, that might not be the issue. But I couldn’t keep it running in idle. So the fuel press test was next. Here’s the video:
The fuel pump feeding the juice to the carb is a generic stock not sure of the specs. Here is what I’m going to replace it. Oh and it is tough to find anything for 351 Cleveland on the local market. Even on-line, I was looking at out stock everywhere and ship dates of Oct 2020! Thanks Pandemic!!!
So I found this:
Procomp Electronics High-Volume Mechanical Fuel Pumps PCE146-1014
Fuel Pump, Mechanical, Chrome, 115 gph, 6.5 psi, 1/4 in. NPT,
Flow Rate: 115 gph/435 lph
Inlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT
Inlet Quantity: One
Inlet Attachment: Female threads
Outlet Size: 1/4 in. NPT
Procomp Electronics high-volume mechanical fuel pumps are designed to work with stock or mildly
modified engines. They deliver free-flow outputs of 115 gph–that’s twice what a normal pump
typically delivers! These pumps are plated with a bright finish for good looks and corrosion
resistance. The lower housings can be rotated through 360 degrees to make fitting into tight
places a snap, and they have large orifices for high flow rates. Procomp Electronics high volume
mechanical fuel pumps are not compatible with methanol or alcohol fuels, and should not be used
with fuel injection systems. Order the model recommended for your specific vehicle and engine size.
Drop your thoughts in a comment!!
Thanks for checking!!
Tim
Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland in #ProjectSportsRoof
#ProjectSportsRoof – Vapor Lock – 351 Cleveland Part II
It’s been a while!!!!
Ya know, one would think that as you get older there’s more time for leisurely things. But as second year teacher (at the age of “past 50”) and coaching our school’s basketball team there is no slowing down. That’s my only excuse for not working much on Project SportsRoof. Ok there’s one more….we’ve had a colder and wetter than normal winter. This episode is purely due to “Spring Break” and having our taxes done (almost).
If you’ve followed along (did you know you can find Average Guy on YouTube as well?) you’ll know it’s been a long road with my 73 Mustang. Multiple starts and stops, often caused by me exceeding my ‘Average Guy’s’ skill set and man power and even my car disappearing for a couple of weeks (but I found it). Oh and don’t forget the tow truck driver that “broke” my front end!
Now SR73 (not SR71 the blackbird aircraft) or #ProjectSportsRoof is back on the road. Having only driving about 30 miles since the engine rebuild, I noticed a lifter noise. Not something you want to hear after all the time and $$ spent on it’s 351 C, in fact it’s a bit concerning.
The best place to start troubleshooting is to make sure the engine is getting the oil it needs. That requires pulling the valve cover and running the engine. Since I put the heads together myself, it’s a good idea to check the torque on the valves. What better time to check that than when you have to take the valve covers off anyway?
Here is my quick video recap. There are a couple good tips in this one and here is a one more great tip. I can’t take credit for it because was shared with me sometime back. Should you have an old set of valve covers, cut the tops off to make viewing possible. That way when you let the car run (it’s the easiest way check if oil is flowing) the spraying oil is somewhat contained. You won’t see that in these videos….but you will see the mess it makes when you don’t use them!!!
Don’t forget to drop a comment, if you are so inclined. Oh, if you have an event you’d like to tell other car peeps about, let me know and I’ll post it up!!
Tim
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part I
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part II
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression, Rods and Heads
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Engine Bay Components.
