Category Archives: Engine Mods

Desensitized to Speed

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Could I be desensitized to speed?

I was told it would happen when I upgraded my Mustang from a 6 cylinder to a V8.  I was told it would happen when I got my first Corvette (1984 C4 with 205 hp).  I was told it would happen when I got my second Corvette (07 C6).

And I was sort of told that numerous years ago by an Air Force pilot.  I didn’t believe it each time.
No one can fault me, except some “car purists”, for taking the 250 straight 6 motor from my Mustang and replaced it with a V8 302 bored .030 nor when I attempted to increase the HP in my C4 Corvette from 205 to 245 with a new fangled intake (never actually took place).  Those were pretty understandable upgrades considering the 250 in the Mustang had no get up and go  (more like lay down and won’t) when the AC was on.  For that matter why would ever limit a Corvette to 205 hp?

Now the C4 is gone but the Mustang puts out about 300 hp and the C6 is at about 420.   I remember saying, “400 hp?  That’s plenty for me!!!” when I bought the C6.    And it should be.  I’m certain that this SHOULD be ‘true’.  But why then, do I have a set of 351 Cleveland Cobra Jet heads sitting in the garage for the Mustang. And why am I pricing superchargers for the Corvette?

I started thinking  about this driving the C6 on my way to work today, recalling back when the Mustang was 195 hp and the 84 Vette was just 10 more than the Stang and wishing I had more. As I stepped on the throttle entering the Interstate, I thought to myself, I which I had a bit more power now.   That’s just plan crazy talk!!!    Just a year ago I was happy with the C6’s   power and now its like… yeah its powerful, most powerful in the HOA I bet (why didn’t I just say “neighborhood”?).  What happened?

What has happened is that I drive the Vette daily and it as become common place to have that power at a bend of my right ankle.  I am sure that if I drove a Toyota Corolla every day and took the Vette out on the weekends, I would still be in awe of the power.   I’ve just come so accustom (not complacent, mind you) to driving the car that it doesn’t seem extra ordinary (although intellectually I know that 400 plus hp is no joke).

That doesn’t  explain the desire to upgrade the Mustang though, does it?  So what does?   I think that rational here is more rooted in my own attachment to what the last 60’s and 70’s muscles cars should be.  But still when I’m driving it I wish for more power.  You understand that don’t  you?  When you look at a 1969 Mustang and it has its original 6 cylinder in it, you say…”That’s nice. Its all original.”  However when you see a 1970 Mustang Mach I with its massive engine…you say…’WOW!!!  F-ing A that’s what I’m talking about!!!!”  So it’s some of that for sure.

So here is where I am with my cars and thinking about it  took me back to one of my military supervisor.  He was a LT Col and was one of the few that flew the SR-71 for a living.  He shared a story with me about flying a mission and on the return trip received a warning light on the instrument panel.  This required him to have to slow the aircraft down bit.  He said to me, “…and I thought GREAT  it’ll take forever to get home at only Mach 2.  I realized how relative speed it was.”

Thanks for reading and keep it under Mach 1.  (Yes I’m sure that’s enough power…perhaps.)

Tim

Six Cylinder Super Charged

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Technology has come a long way in the car world.  Early on getting 100 hp from an eight cylinder was tough, much less from a six cylinder.   Now days you can get a V6 Mustang with a base horse power for up to 305.  Add a super charger and you can squeeze out 427 hp from the same engine.  Yes technology as come a long way.  Really?That’s what I would have thought. Super charging has been around in the hot rod, drag racing world, for some time, but in a production, oh that’s fairly new (last 10 years or so).  But reading an article from Hemmings Motor New dispelled this notion I had.

So you’re thinking how far back was super charging something for sale to the general public, 60’s maybe…70’s maybe?  How about 1937?

Yes.  A car company by the name of Graham produced a 6 cylinder coupe.

1937 Graham Coupe

Supercharger badging

That’s a nice looking coupe.  Here is a shot of the super charged straight 6 and one of the charger it’s self.

 

Straight 6 cylinder.

 

 

The supercharger. This was Graham own design of a centrifugal super charger which they manufactured themselves.

They used this first on their straight eight engines then on the straight six.  They preformed so well that they nearly equaled the power of the eight-cylinder.  The car was lighter with the smaller engine and that helped it hit 60 mph in just 14.5 seconds by producing 112 hp.  The car came into chassis lengths 116 inches which had 106hp, 199.1 cid straight six and 120 inches which had 116hp 217.8 cid straight six.  What about gas mileage? How’s 23.95 MPG grab ya.

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Transitioning to Modern Transmissions Prt 3

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Posted By John Katz, June 25, 2012 in E-News, Engine & Drivetrain

Part 1  http://wp.me/pKHNM-1cL
Part 2  http://wp.me/pKHNM-1cL

From www.hotrodandrestoration.com

Switch Shifters

With manual transmissions in demand, it isn’t surprising to find that a fair number of vehicles—particularly muscle-era vehicles—that left the factory with an automatic transmission are being rebuilt with a manual. Frederick estimated that about 60 percent of American Powertrain’s classic muscle car customers are replacing an automatic transmission with a manual.

“[The conversion] is time-consuming, but not terribly complicated,” Frederick said. “Most of the parts bolt in.”

“It isn’t for the faint-of-heart or for anyone short on patience, but it’s do-able,” Hill added. “It’s just a matter of working through the process.”

Obviously you’ll need a pedal assembly; fortunately, according to Hill, there are a lot of aftermarket units that work quite well.

“That also gives you the option of using a hydraulic release bearing instead of a mechanical clutch linkage, which, depending on the application, can have some advantages,” Hill said. “It’s going to take a longer or shorter drive shaft. It’s going to take a different yoke on that driveshaft. The power bushing in the motor for the transmission input shaft may have to be changed. The starter could be affected by the diameter of the flywheel you put into the vehicle.

“You start at the back of the crankshaft and start matching componentry as well as possible—and if you can’t match it, then you have to compensate for it,” Hill continued. “I don’t think we’ve ever run into something we couldn’t convert, as long as we’re talking about American muscle.”

Many of the same issues crop up even when swapping one manual for another—for example, the customer who has a 454 and a Muncie and wants to put a modern six-speed in it.

Like many other projects, it’s significantly easier with older (i.e., pre-computer) hardware. If either the engine or the transmission came with computer controls, it gets a little more involved. And keep in mind that even some modern manuals now have computer controls—the GM transmission that comes with the LS engine, for example, with its skip-shift function.

Of course, some customers will want to go the other way and replace a factory manual with a new, high-tech automatic.

“It’s most important to make sure you have all the correct components—and that you make the finished job look appealing to the customer,” said Poff of TCI. “It’s the mounting that’s most likely to give you trouble.”

According to the experts, you’ll need to ensure that you have the right crossmembers and that there’s enough room inside the tunnel.

“There is no one-size-fits-all solution; every application is unique,” added Poff. “But once the physical installation is accomplished, it’s pretty straightforward to make everything operational.”

Either way, Nichols suggested finding out from the customer how critical it is to keep the car looking original, versus the cost to locate and install all of the correct original components.

As with so much else in hot rodding, the best results generally come from purchasing and installing complete systems.

“That goes for any product from any company in this business,” Frederick said. “We say, ‘Look, we have a turnkey kit. We figured it all out, and all you to do it plug and play.’ Buy it all from one source and you know all the parts are going to work together.”

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

 

Rotary Engine Part 1

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Rotary engines have always been a mystery to me.  Never understood them, no clue on how they worked.  Here is a great little vid on how it works.

Thanks for reading

Tim

Engine Building/Mods – Piston Speed

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OK, if there has one thing that being a forum surfer has taught me over my brief tenure of being such, is there are a lot of things that affect, generate, hinder and enhance engine performance that are not understood or simply just ignored.

Most of this stuff is simply just not shared, be it that they are considered speed secrets or the lay person simply does not understand it, whatever.

I wanted to start a thread to discuss some factors that affect engine performance and the parameters that performance engines live within. Read, argue, whine or cry, this is the truth.  And as Jack Nicholson said in "A Few Good Men"- "you can't handle the truth".  Well, maybe you can, let's find out.

Get your calculators ready, over the next few weeks, you will need them.

Now, with all of that out of the way, let's start by nailing down the first thing we need to consider when wanting to build a new engine and get the maximum performance out of it.  Knowing what we want to use it for will deliver the best possible results.  Building a high strung engine to take the family to picnics on Sundays will probably not deliver the experience you are after. Well, maybe the experience you are after, but probably not everyone else in the car.

The best place to build a starting point is to determine intended purpose of our engine and then correlate this to a range of piston speeds.

Piston speed will have a crazy-huge effect on how the engine performs.

I am going to break this down into different categories.  For those of you playing along at home, I will give you several examples to experiment with, I am not going to lead you down a primrose path to a result that I have predetermined.  Your rules, build what you want without spending a dime.

OK, the categories are:

Street engines (stock)
Mild performance or street/strip
Endurance/NASCAR/Road Race
Maximum effort (Mileage limited/drag race)
AYFKM effort (Component failure limited)

Now, the classification for each of these categories are split by how fast we fling the piston. But first, I guess we need to know how to determine piston speed so we can then determine which category we belong in, or vice versa.

The formula for Mean Piston Speed (MPS) is MPS in ft per minute=(inches of crankshaft stroke x (engine RPM/6))

Depending on the stroke of the crankshaft, and the RPM you expect to see, we can categorize our engine. This will affect our pocketbook, because it will directly affect the type and quality of parts we need to buy to support our performance objectives.

Now let's put these categories in a manner where piston speed can help us determine what we are building. Or, what we need to build to fit into a certain performance category.

Street engines (stock)                                   2000 to 3000 ft/min
Mild performance or street/strip                         3000 to 4000 ft/min
Endurance/NASCAR/Road Race                               4000 to 5000 ft/min
Maximum effort (Mileage limited/pro class drag race)     5000 to 6000 ft/min
AYFKM effort (Component failure limited)                 6000 to 7500+ ft/min

OK, so if you tried a few different combinations, you probably realize we can change the category by solely changing the stroke, changing our RPM, or both.  So great, wow, what a speed secret.  Thanks a whole pantload Parker, I read through all of this for that?  You're an asshole.  Yeah, I know I am, thanks. But the thing that we need to understand about the formula is you need to understand engine speed (RPM) is power.  Let's take a look at two theoretical engines and another formula, this one you have probably seen.

Horsepower = (Torque x RPM)/5252

By solely changing RPM, I can make one of these engines a grocery getter and the other, an F1 contender.

Two little six cylinders; both make an eyeball popping 246 pound feet of torque  :lol 

In the first one, my maximum usable RPM is 4500, and when plugged into the above formula (go ahead and do it, doofus), we see the engine is capable of making about 210 horsepower.  :facepalm: 

Now we will leave everything the same as far as torque, but let's give the engine an F1 race car caliber RPM of 19,250.  After you do the math (I don't have to call you doofus this time, do I?) we see that though my torque stayed 246 lb/ft, my horsepower climbed to a panty-dropping 910!  :willy 

RPM is power folks, RPM is the shit.  RPM can also stand for "Ruins People's Motors" if you don't know how to handle your newfound knowledge.

Piston action has a dramatic effect in the way air and fuel enter, and exhaust leaves the engine. Going back to our categories, we are going to relate the effectiveness of this piston action with our engine and piston speed categories. We do this using something called Volumetric Efficiency, or VE. VE simply put is; if I have a 100 cubic inch engine, and that engine can breathe in and expel 100 cubic inches of air for every camshaft (two crankshaft) revolution(s), it is 100 percent volumetric efficient. If the design of the heads, intake and exhaust only allow 85 cubic inches of airflow through the engine, it is 85% volumetric efficient.  If it can move 110 cubic inches of air flow, then it is 110% volumetric efficient.  Are engines over 100% VE possible?  Why yes, yes they are, and I am going to show you how to build one. Wow, a 350 cubic inch engine that can move 385 cubic inches worth of airflow?  Oh yes, yes indeed.

But that will wait until the next installment, for now, let this digest.

Street engines (stock)                                   2000 to 3000 ft/min              80-90% VE
Mild performance or street/strip                         3000 to 4000 ft/min              90-110% VE
Endurance/NASCAR/Road Race                               4000 to 5000 ft/min              110-120% VE
Maximum effort (Mileage limited/pro class drag race)     5000 to 6000 ft/min              120 to 127% VE
AYFKM effort (Component failure limited)                 6000 to 7500+ ft/min             125 to 128% VE

So we have learned that how fast the piston moves has a great affect on the performance I can expect.  And we also learned that piston speed is primarily controlled by the stroke of the crankshaft and the RPM of the engine. We also see how changing piston speed makes my engine fall into different performance categories.

Next time I will give you some real world examples I have tuned on the engine dyno and tested on the drag strip, as well as begin to talk about hw we get the air into the engine to take advantage of all of this piston speed we just talked about.

Cheers,  Parker


 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

The topic can be found here:
http://www.arizonacorvetteenthusiasts.net/arizonavette/forums/index.php?showtopic=21188

Engine Line Up – 1966 AMC

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Often over looked is the first year AMC products.  AMC invested approximately 300 million dollars in  advanced engine designs, bodies and plant facilities as it prepared for the move from Nash Rambler hold over to AMC proper.

Of course the company was formed from Nash Rambler (AMC Rambler) in 1958 and eventually just American  Motors Corp.  So 1966 found a fair amount of “redesign” going on.   The available models for that year were:

Rambler American Rouge Series 01 (4dr w/V8)

Rambler Classic 770 Series 10 (2dr conv w/V8)  (4dr station wagon w/6cyl)

Rambler Rebel  Series (2dr w/V8)

Marlin Series 50 (2dr w/6 or V8) (My favorite besides the Javelin)

I love these cars. The two-tone paint is great. I love the yellow and black, blue and black and the silver and black combo.

Ambassador 990  Series 80 (4dr w/V8)

Rambler Ambassador 990  Series 80 (2d conv w/V8)

1966 Rambler Ambassador 990 Convertible

Rambler Ambassador DPL Series 80 (2dr w/V8)

Gone from the engine line up is the 196.5 6 cylinder overhead valve engine.  It was replaced with the 198.8 In Line Six. It was a cast iron block with overhead valves and a bore and stroke of 3.57 x 4.00 inches.  It displaced 198.8 cubic inches with a compression ratio of 85:1 and mustered up 128 hp. It was topped with a 1bbl Holley carb.  This was the base engine and all of the models could have been optioned with it.  But that wasn’t the only 6 banger the American 232 cid with produced 155 hp which sported a 2bbl Holley carb.

On the V8 side of things there was the 287 cid.  It was a cast iron block with overhead valves with a bore and stroke of 3.75 x 3.25 which produced a compression ratio of 8.7:1.  Topped with a 2bbl Holley (model 2209-2699) it made 198 hp.  The other option was the 327 cid that put out 270 hp and carried a 4bbl Holley on top.

New for that year was the 290 V8 (4.8L) it had a bore and stroke of 3.75 x 3.28  and with an iron block and overhead valves which produced 200 hp with a 2bbl plopped on top for 225 with a 4bbl carb.  Snap up the car with an original 290, only 623 of these engine were place in the 1966 models (all may the “American” models vs the “Classic” (those should have 287 instead).

The 290 used sparingly in the 1966 models.

The 327 was available in 1966. It was 5.4 liters with cast iron block.  The bore was increased over the 287 (they were similar set up) and it had hydraulic lifters.

The AMC 327 was similar to the 287, but displaced 327 cu in (5.4 L) due to the bore increase to 4.0 inches (102 mm). Unlike the 250, the 327 was available with hydraulic valve lifters.  The bore and stroke was 4.0 x 3.25  and topped with 2bbl carb it produced 250 hp.  Put the 4bbl option and you push it up to 270 hp.

I really these early AMC.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Engine Line Up for 1946 Chrylser

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Now 1946 generally wasn’t that exciting as far as new car models.  The war just ended and the many of the car manufacturers were recovering from the wartime conversion, they had a lot of Uncle Sam’s money, but no much time to make “new” tooling for creating new sheet metal.  So many of the cars were just spruced up.  Chrysler was not different.

Their main offerings was the Royal series, Windsor series, the Saratoga series and the New Yorker series.  The Royal cam in 3, 6 and 8 passenger and a Limo!!!  The Windsor came in 3, 6, 8 passengers and the Town and  Country  tossed in there was a 2 door convertible.   The Saratoga came in 3 and 6 passenger and the New Yorker came in 3 and 6 passenger and the Town and Country 4 door and 2 door convertible.

1946 Convertible

46 Royal

There engines were basically 6 cylinder and 8.

The Royal and Windsor engines was an L6.  It had a cast iron block with a bore and stroke of 3.438 x 4.5.  It displaced 250.6 cubic inches and had a compression of 6.6:1 (not huge when the shipping weight was 3,000 plus).  It was able to produce 114 hp and sported four main bearings, solid lifters.  It was topped with either the Fluid Drive (B-B VE1 – Ev2) or Vacumatic (E7L4) carb.

The Saratoga and New Yorker had an L8.  This engine too, had the cast iron block, but displaced 323.5 cubic inches and sported a bore of 3.25 and a stroke of 4.875 inches producing 6.7:1 compression.  With the 5 main bearings, solid lifters and topped with B-B E7A1 carb could produce 135 hp.

L8 Engine (49 but still the same engine)

 

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Engine Line Up for 1957 Nash

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Now here’s a brand you don’t see much in print.  Nash produced some very distinctive cars and as many of you know the company eventually morphed into AMC that brought us some great models like the Javelin and some interesting cars like the Gremblin.

For 1957 Nash produced the Ambassador in a couple of variations, Custom 4 door and the Super Country Club 2 door coupe (all Series 80s).

1957 Ambassador Custom

The other offering was the Rambler, which came in a couple of versions as well, the Custom 4 door (Series 20) and the Rebel (that name rings a bell…yes?  AMC Rebel?) 4 door (Series 30) and they added a station wagon as well, the Super Cross Country (Series 10 w/6 cylinder).

’57 Nash Rambler

Yup..the Super Cross Country Rambler Wagon

These were all powered by one of the following engines.

Ambassador V8 which was an overhead valve configuration with cast iron block.  327 CID with bore of 4 x 3.25 and compression of 9.0:1.  Making 255 hp with hydraulic lifters and a Carter 4bbl WCFB-2593SA carb.  Hey it had dual exhaust!!

Ramber V8 which was 250 CID, overhead valve, cast iron block power plant.  The 3.5X 3.25 bore and stroke with a 8.0:1 compression ratio help produce 190 hp.  It had no-adjustable hydraulic lifters and a Carter 2bbl model WGD-2352SA carb.

Ramber Rebel V8 which displaces 326 cubic inches rated at 255 hp and identical to the Ambassador V8 but with Solid lifters.

Lastly here was the Rambler Six.  It was an inline (straight) 6 cylinder, iron block engine with a bore and stroke of 3 1/8 x 4.25 inches.  This helped create a compression ratio of 8.25:1 and 125 hp.  It was fitted with a one barrel Carter carb, model AS-2580S.  There was an option that could be order that s was called the Power Pack which was really just a 2bbl carb that added 10 more horse power (135).  That extra boost would help when hauling around 3034 lbs wagon.

Own one of this beauties?  Drop me a comment.

Thanks for reading.

Tim

Part and Parcel: State of the Swap

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http://www.oldcarsweekly.com

Each July the tiny town of Iola, Wis., is invaded by a sea of humanity and old iron. Many in attendance come strictly for the swap meet, which covers about 4,500 spaces.

Old car hobby doing well — at least ‘parts’ of it

By John Gunnell

“Don’t tell me there’s no recovery going on,” said Kurt Kelsey, an Iowa City-based vendor of new-old-stock Pontiac parts. According to Kelsey, his business this year is much better than it has been in a long time. “The phone has been ringing off the hook every day,” he said.

Kelsey’s observation about an up-tick in the market isn’t alone. Positive reports have come from other vendors, parts manufacturers and catalog retailers since late last fall. Despite an unsettled national economy and high unemployment, the old-car parts business seems to be in the midst of a boom.

During a Dynamat seminar at the Hot Rod & Restoration Show in March, company owner Scott Whitaker said one-day shipping of Dynamat automotive insulation products has been impossible to promise lately, because a large increase in orders has outpaced new hiring. “The bump in sales wasn’t expected and caught us off guard,” he said.

In early April, Bob Marx at Marx Parts in Arpin, Wis., came to visit us and he, too, was upbeat about his rising sales. Marx has been growing his inventory of vintage gaskets and rear main seals and is now rebuilding fuel pumps, but he said that new products do not explain all of the growth he is seeing. Like several other industry veterans, Marx pointed to the TV exposure of the Mecum and Barrett-Jackson auctions as a factor that’s helping the hobby grow. “New people are getting involved with old cars,” he said.

“After a winter of inactivity, old cars tend to leak or fail when they are put back on the road,” said Fred Kanter of Kanter Auto Products, who wonders if the business boom might be seasonal. “March, April, May every year, it’s the same thing — spring,” Kanter said. He pointed out that from spring through summer every year, his most popular items are fuel pumps and water pumps. “There’s a lot of factors that affect our business.”

You never know what you’ll see at big swap meets. You might come across a 1958 Edsel Pacer looking for a new home.

Al Suehring of Amherst Junction, Wis., specializes in ring gears and is another vendor who feels that the market is strong. We caught up with him at the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America dinner in Chilton, Wis., and he said that his business from the United States and abroad has been showing noticeable increases lately.

Ray Yager of Classic Industries said the level of growth of reproduction parts sales is “hard to keep up with.” His firm supplies MoPar, 1955-’57 Chevy, Camaro, Firebird, Nova, Impala and Chevy truck parts, and parts sales for these vehicles are moving in a positive direction. Yager thought the company’s 18-month-old MoPar parts catalog may account for some, but not all, of the huge increase in business he’s seeing. At least one vendor who solely deals in Chevrolets is likewise seeing increases in business.

“I’m having a really good year,” said Ron Kellogg of Chevy Tri-Power. “Rather amazing since I’m selling restored multi-carb setups in an era of $5-a-gallon gas prices. I’ve probably sold 25 Tri-Power units — normally a year’s worth — since November 2011.”

Kellogg’s increase proves that car collectors still want high-performance options on their classics.

In addition to new products, increased TV exposure of the hobby and added catalogs, parts suppliers said both the use of the Internet and increased advertising seem to be attracting more customers. Some big companies such as Mid America Motorworks and Eastwood have begun sending daily e-mails to thousands of potential customers. This takes time and money and employees with Internet skills, but their efforts are paying off with increased sales.

Many mom-and-pop operations that can’t afford daily e-marketing efforts are creating websites, Facebook pages, blogs and Twitter accounts to reach the marketplace. Hobby events aimed at professionals — such as the Racing & Performance Expo, the British Motor Trade Association and the SEMA Show — all offer seminars on Internet marketing techniques to these businesses.

As their marketing efforts become more sophisticated, parts sellers are also discovering that they can use print media to drive customers to their websites. Companies that never ran a print ad before are discovering that a clean-looking space ad with the right design and not much text can generate strong client interaction. The right picture of a car can catch the potential customer’s attention and a simple e-mail address or website link is all that’s needed to bring business knocking. A good ad will pay for itself much faster these days.

While an increase in parts sales would suggest that restoration shops and collector car sales are both on the increase, growth in those parts of the hobby isn’t as clear-cut as it is when a part is “checked out” in an online catalog. Collector car dealers such as Colin Comer of Colin’s Classic Auto in Milwaukee and market players such as Joe Bortz are fairly universal in the belief that collector car prices are off 15-20 percent in today’s market. Some restoration shop owners say that they are busier than they’ve ever been, but others say the opposite.

From all of the indications we have seen and all the comments we’ve heard, it appears the old-car parts niche is improving for 2012 and this trend will presumably filter down to other parts of the hobby. The hobby is changing in many ways, and the wise businessmen in it are getting more sophisticated as the market grows.

Sources mentioned

Kurt Kelsey
NOS Pontiac parts
641-648-9086

Dynamat
automotive insulation products
www.dynamat.com
513-860-5094

Marx Parts
vintage gaskets
www.marxparts.com
715-652-2405

Kanter Auto Products
mechanical components
www.kanter.com
800-526-1096

Al Suehring
ring gears
715-677-3809

Classic Industries
restoration parts
www.classicindustries.com
714-847-6887

Ron Kellogg
most tri-power units
www.chevytripower.com

Joe Bortz
vintage vehicle sales
www.takeyourcartoauction.com
847-668-2004

Mid America Motorworks
Corvette and VW restoration parts
www.mamotorworks.com
866-350-4543

Eastwood
restoration equipment
www.eastwood.com
800-343-9353

Colin’s Classic Auto
vintage vehicle sales
www.colinsclassicauto.com
414-964-3747