Who doesn’t love coming home and finding new car parts waiting at the door???!!! OK probably my wife…but who else?
New Carpet (Black) New E-Hand Brake console.
The plan for the interior -at this moment is to replace all the ugly carpet (what’s left of it) with Black.
There is no carpet in the front. You see remnants of the underlayment and some surface rust in the front.
And this “no idea what color that is’ carpet in the back.
At this point the seat belts and the seats will be black (or maybe red — Thoughts?)
I don’t know what to do with the rest of the car that has this off-white (without the details from an invoice or window sticker, I have no idea what the carpet color options were in 1976) – I don’t think this is going to come clean enough to suit me. I had luck painting some parts of my 1970 Mustang’s interior, I might consider that again.
I have already pulled off one of the kick panels, and I’ve scrubbed it pretty well. It did not clean up well. See —>
Maybe more elbow grease on the hard plastic but I don’t know about the fake leather.
Thanks for check in on #ProjectSportsRoof. If you remember a of couple months back, shortly after bringing the ’73 Mustang home, I conducted a compression test on all the cylinders. The 351C was running rough (to put it mildly) and smoked like a pile of tires on fire (only the smoke …
Thanks for continuing to follow #ProjectSportsRoof. The 351 Cleveland has been torn down and you’ve seen the major components and their deplorable condition and it is time now to get it to the machine shop.
It’s not easy finding a good shop. While I was hunting around for a machinist I asked a few car guys I know for suggestions and found the two that were recommended were out of business. That is not uncommon. It is often times more expedient to just drop in a crate or re-manufactured engine (long or short block) and that’s tough to compete against. I was concerned that I’d have to transport the 351C block 100 miles away to check get the work done.
While I was searching for a shop, I was simultaneously search for a re-man’ed long or short block. Of course I was specifically looking for a closely date code 351C and I was told that those blocks are not plentiful. I took my local search to the hot rod shops (by hot rod shops I mean, shops that sell hot rod parts) in town and the shop I chose was recommended by several. I double checked the review that were available and these guys have a very good rep. I’m going to withhold the name until I get the block back.
Luckily I had the block still bolted to the engine stand. That and my cat-like reflexes (HA) kept a disaster from occurring.
Hoisted!!! ^^^ lots of Mustang parts
Not withstanding my attempts to bounce the block off the garage floor it is finally suspended and ready to get loaded.
Tied Down – This is the fastest this engine has done in months!!!
Upon arrival at the machine shop two guys unloaded the block and I asked them to measure the current bore and the size of the crank.
The results were as follows:
The stock bore is 4″ and the measurements of the current bore is .030 under making the bore 4.030. You’ve seen the condition of the cylinders and the shop recommended to take another .010 off making the proposed bore 4.040″.
Now the crank was measured as well and it was .010 machined from stock thickness. Purposed is to take it down another .010 to .020 under.
The shop recommended to replace the cam, so that will happen.
This ended the speculation about the originality of the engine. Clearly this was rebuilt at least once.
Now decisions need to be made. But first let’s take stock of where we are and then play a little “What If”, shall we?
Using this standard formula for determining displacement: Bore2 X Stroke X 0.7854 X Cylinders (laid out below from a spreadsheet)
Bore
X
Bore
X
Stroke
X
0.7854
X
Cylinders
=
Displacement
Stock
4
4
3.5
0.7854
8
351.8592
Current
4.03
4.03
3.5
0.7854
8
357.1568801
Proposed
4.04
4.04
3.5
0.7854
8
358.9315699
Just cleaning up the cylinders will move the displacement from 351 (stock) to 358 as proposed. That is currently where we are.
Now let’s play What If!!! What if I increased the bore a bit more? Here is what that look like in displacement terms.
Taking up the bore one more .010 to 4.05″ looks like this.
Bore
X
Bore
X
Stroke
X
0.7854
X
Cylinders
=
Displacement
Option
4.05
4.05
3.5
0.7854
8
360.710658
4.05 is the furthest I want to do with the bore – if it’s possible. I know one Mustang owner that has his bore 4.06″, however, I’m not comfortable with that. So we’ve increased the displacement 360.
Now let’s work on the stroke. The machining of the crank will net little to no change in the displacement. To increase that I’d have to go with a different crank. So what do those number look like? Leaving the bore at 4.04 and increase the stroke yields the following increases:
Bore x Bore x Stroke x 0.7854 x #Cylinders Displacement
Option
4.04
4.04
3.75
0.7854
8
384.5695392
Option
4.04
4.04
4
0.7854
8
410.2075085
Basically the 400
Let’s go a bit further with the increase in bore:
Bore x Bore x Stroke x 0.7854 x #Cylinders Displacement
Option
4.05
4.05
3.75
0.7854
8
386.475705
Option
4.05
4.05
4
0.7854
8
412.240752
Option
4.05
4.05
3.85
0.7854
8
396.7817238
Off the shelf long stroke cranks
Option
4.04
4.04
3.85
0.7854
8
394.8247269
Off the shelf long stroke cranks
Care to share your thoughts on the build? Drop me a note!!!
The 351 Cleveland is out of #ProjectSportsRoof. Yeah…I know!! It seemed like to took … Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof. I’m getting ready to pull the 351C …
After spending $$$ to get my 2v heads done right and after driving my 73 Stang for about 50 miles, the Cleveland has developed a knock in the bottom half of the engine.
It’s not uncommon when restoring cars that an undiscovered issue pops up and changes the entire project plan. But the dilemma I have now has multiple facets.
First there’s what to do about the engine. Rebuild it if possible? Replace with a short block, reusing the 2v heads? Buy a crate engine? Or set it on fire in the driveway? Each one of these options have it’s own inherent hurdles and impacts the timeline differently.
Second there’s issue with the old conundrum “Well as long as….I might as well do the ….” In this case it read like this… “As long as the engine out, I should, really, redo the engine bay.” That’s has is own timeline with the cleaning and sanding and priming and painting and replacing clips/fastener….etc.
So let’s discuss the engine.
There are a few “known knowns” (thank you Donald Rumsfeld!!!):
The current 351C engine isn’t original to the car – in fact the car was born with 302. Why is that important? I don’t have to worry about the matching numbers thing, that ship sailed sometime ago. Basically anything goes.
Not rebuilding/replacing is not an option.
Budget. Although there is no set dollar amount, there is restraint how much can be spend in a given time.
Then there are the “known unknowns”
Is it the cam?
Is it just the bearings?
Are the cylinder walls serviceable?
What do I want this engine to be?
Options: (just a few)
Option 1: A friend of mine suggested a crate engine – just order one from Summitt Racing or Jegs. Make all the power I want.
Ford Racing 363 C.I.D. 500 HP Boss Crate Engines – $8439.97
– Discussion: $$$ (Could stop right there with this one.) Getting a 400+ HP turn-key crate would be just awesome. In my option that is what these Mustangs were meant to be. (ching-ching) Getting tons of power to the rear wheels with the current automatic C6 transmission will required a possible rebuild and an upgraded torque converter. (ching-ching again). But having a Cleveland in the engine bay is way cool!! I grew up in GM family… there weren’t a lot of discussion about Ford product and anytime I heard “Ford talk” a 351 Cleveland engine was mentioned. I do like the look of it under the hood the are wider than the Windsor family of motors. Keeping it a 351C V2 will be less expensive and you can make good power from it if you do it right.
– Conclusion for Option 1: Not gonna happen!!
Option 2: Find a good used 351C and install that
– Discussion: This is a good possibility. That’s already happened to #ProjectSportsRoof. The 302 was replaced with a 351 (whether it was a Windsor or Cleveland is not known) as this was the engine the previous owner hauled it out of a field with. As it turned out that engine was seized and the current engine was found and installed (along with the used C6 trans). It may be tough to find one. If and when you do the mileage shouldn’t be a known unknown and you need to determine the condition as best you can by listening to it run. If it is just sitting on the shelf, would you perform a “trust-fall” with the seller? Bottom line is a used engine “is like a box of chocolates”…you might end right back up where you are now. Frankly this would be my last option.
In 1991 and 1992, the Dodge Spirit R/T was the quickest four-door sold in the U.S. and the fastest mass-produced sedan in the world.
The Dodge Charger Hellcat’s rise to the top of the sport sedan segment shouldn’t come as a surprise. Though many were shocked when Dodge had the audacity to build a 707-horsepower grocery-getter, the American automaker has a long-history of catching the automotive industry off guard.
Though few still remember the legend, the Hellcat isn’t the first time Dodge shockingly overthrew Germany’s finest to become king of the sport sedan segment. BMW, Mercedes, and Audi were unquestionably the gold standard of tire-scorching, corner-carving four-doors. But in 1991 and ‘92, Dodge completely embarrassed the German triumvirate with its budget-friendly, front-wheel drive Dodge Spirit.
This isn’t entirely true, but of the 1400 Spirit R/Ts sold in the US in 1991-1992, only a few are for sale right now. Perhaps they … a good deal. Find this 1992 Dodge Spirit R/T offered here on craigslist for $1000 in Maquoketa, IA.
This isn’t entirely true, but of the 1400 Spirit R/Ts sold in the US in 1991-1992, only a few are for sale right now. Perhaps they … a good deal. Find this 1992 Dodge Spirit R/T offered here on craigslist for $1000 in Maquoketa, IA.
Date: 19th January 2012 Username: j4278h Full Name: City, State, Zip: 49079 Contact: pm Price: 350 Description:1992 Dodge Spirit R/T 150mph instrument cluster with 180k miles on it. Since I’ve had this car for 5 plus years …
However, these two Dodges, listed separately but sold by the same seller, are tempting for the creative gifter. It’s the thought that counts. Find this 1991 Dodge Spirit R/T and this 1992 Dodge Daytona Iroc R/T for sale in …
Welcome back to the #ProjectSportsRoof. As the discovery process continues we move to the interior. Now each area of the car (engine, body, interior, undercarriage) I’m conducting an inventory, gathering all items that need to be replaced or missing and the work that needs to be done.
Here is a quick run through the interior:
Just a note: I not a camera guy, these are filmed with my Android (sometimes my IPhone) so these are the greats shots. But they will be improving as I learn the art of digital editing.
From these videos I’ll end up with a list of everything – discovered (there will me more). From this list, I’ll be able to build the project plan and with tasked ordered in what is hopefully a logical approach, with the goal of keeping it on the road as much as possible.
Thanks for reading and please feel free to drop a comment or two.
I pulled this dash cluster from a 1973 Mustang Sportsroof that was in a junkyard in 1980. The car had the three center gauges in the mini cluster but had no Tach. Instead it had this clock with a brake warning light in the pod …
Related Finds. 1973 Mustang SportsRoof 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 Under Tarp 1970-mustang-boss-302 1970 Boss 302 · Get Email Updates! Instant Daily Weekly. Categories. Stories · Sightings · Our Projects · Events …
Cast, forged, billet? Straight-shot or cross-drilled? Experts from Eagle, Lunati and Scat offer tips and advice on selecting a crankshaft for your engine.
Engine builders are often conditioned into selecting crankshafts based solely on the expected horsepower output of the engine, or at least that often-optimistic number carries the most weight in the decision process. But savvy builders — whether assembling an honest street engine, rogue weekend warrior or a savage race-only bullet — will recognize the importance of analyzing other factors before choosing between cast iron, forged steel or billet steel.
It was a great weekend in Atlanta for Bryant Racing Crankshafts, as the winners for the Camping World Truck Series, Xfinity Series and Sprint Cup Series all use our cranks! We had a 1-2-3 finish in the Sprint Cup race with …
When you are restoring a car you have a lot of choice to make. Keep the original paint or engine? Drop it a couple of inches? Upgrade the suspension? Of course there’s the brain racking choice of the what time of necessary parts shop for as well. Do we go with NOS? How about OEM, used or remanufactured parts or rebuilt? These last two question important, however you are going to need to know what the differences are between them.
NOS is New Old Stock and not normally pronounced as a word, just initials N.O.S. These initials normally refer to parts that were made by the car’s manufacturer (like GM, Ford, Chrysler) and are stocked at dealerships or auto parts stores while the cars are ‘current’ in marketplace. Finding NOS parts for you 1930’s Studebaker is a huge deal, provided the parts lasted sitting in the box for 30 plus years. Automobilia collectors get down right giddy if they find a spark plug for a Model T in the original box – so there’s that aspect. But many car collectors will look for these parts when on a car when buying and selling. So NOS is not always going to get the job done if you want a great running classic car and you can almost bet that some are budget busters!
Ford NOS Spark Plugs
NOS Thunderbird Windshield wiper motor
That’s why, in part, all the other classification of parts now exist.
Let’s look at the remanufactured classification of parts. The idea is that the parts are as close to new as possible. Any of the parts that might wear have been replaced (normally as standard procedure) and the core material is thoroughly gone over to see if it measures up to original equipment specifications and therefore perform as you would expect original equipment to perform. The replaced components of the part (seals, springs, gaskets, etc.) should be made in the same process as the original parts were produced and those too should be test against original specs. This goes for something as small as a distributor caps to a complete short or long block engines. You’ll find prices will often cost less than NOS parts and will carry a warranty, which most of other categories do not.
Another classification that is often confused with remanufactured is ‘rebuilt’ parts. Rebuilding parts includes thorough cleaning and inspection. Parts that are worn (and not capable of meeting manufacturers’ acceptable wear limits) or broken are replaced. Anything serviceable is retained. This leads to a combination of used components (from a core unit), new components (gaskets, washer, etc.) and original. Quality is an issue and will vary between different rebuilders and sometimes even from the same rebuilder. Rebuilt part do come with a “limited” warranty. Just in case “core unit” isn’t a familiar phrase, it is basically your old part handed in for a rebuilt part. Often the cost of the rebuilt part has a ‘core’ charge attached. For example, when purchasing a rebuilt alternator, the price of $150.00 includes a $25.00 core charge, meaning if you turn in your malfunctioning part the part cost $125.00. In turn the company uses your core for rebuilding or salvaging parts for another rebuild.
Original Equipment Manufacturer or OEM classification of parts can be confusing as well. OEM’s were companies that produced parts for the auto manufactures. For example GM didn’t produce its own batteries, they looked to Delco or some other expert to produce these parts. You may still be able to buy a battery from Delco, however it may be cosmetically different (which sets it apart from NOS parts.). In some cases the manufacturers will license a company to produce parts to their specification.
Used parts is the last classification we going to discuss. Just as you might expect, these are parts most often obtained at a salvage yard. There the parts may or may not have been tested and there is no quality control. As you may have guessed, used parts of often less expensive than the other classifications, but they are not covered by any particular warranty.
Salvage yard parts – untested and as is.
Determining which classification of parts to select from depend on several factors. What is the end goal for the car? Concourse restoration, race and show, racing only, just a good-looking classic or muscle car to woo the neighbors and cruse the streets. What is the budget? The average guy has average skills, average tools and an average guy’s budget constraints (family, bills, etc.) this may determine the level of restoration you can afford. Is the need part available? It is great to start out with the goal of restoring to 100% original but if the NOS parts are not available, then what?
In my last restoration (1970 Mustang) I used all manner of parts. NOS parts from online, used brackets for the A/C compressor (from a Mercury), OEM parts from overseas and rebuilt 4 speed trans from a wrecked Shelby Mustang and a new intake and carb. This car turned out great and it was raced and woo’ed over and even brought home a couple of car show trophies.
On top of the classic car restoration industry only employing 22,000 skilled workers, 43% of them are 45-years-old or more. This means a significant proportion of the workforce will be retiring or coming up to retirement in the next 20 years. Not only …
These same rules apply to other remanufactured auto parts, whatever they may be. You will find that remanufactured auto parts usually carry a longer and stronger warranty, covering parts and labor for longer periods of time, compared to rebuild parts.
I keep an eye on the several cable shows that relate to cars (“Counting Cars” is one of my favorites). Most of them are short on technical details for restoring but they sure do put out some wonderful cars. Budgets are everything.
I happened to catch a repeat of the other of the shows as they were working on a 1950’s vintage Caddy. They were leaving it mostly stock except the engine and bagging the suspension to be able to lower it.
In the course of the starting up the engine they ran into a couple issues and one left the points and condenser fried. As they showed the fried wire, I wondered “Why keep them?” Seems to me if you are going to chop or lower and bag a classic, why not upgrade one of the weakest parts of the mechanical engine, the ignition system?
Weak Link
I learned from my Dad how to deal with points in particular (basically a condenser works or is gets replaces). He taught me how to gap them and to take a bit of emery cloth to “clean” them up (hey money was tight when I was a kid) and re-gap them. That’s really a lost art these days, but maybe for good reason.
This is commonly called a Feeler Gauge it is used to set the gap on spark plugs and points.
If you are unfamiliar with the gauge or the technique you can still find ‘how to’ videos and gaping specs on-line, that doesn’t negate the fact that these are a common weak link (they will need to be replaced) in the over all functioning of your car’s ability to burn fuel properly.
The 302
Shortly after I installed the rebuilt engine in my 1970 Mustang (re-manufactured long block) the new distributor took dive. I had done research on ignition systems and ran across Pertronix and decided to use one of their Flame Thrower modules and coil to replace everything under the distributor cap. It was a good decision, there is no change to the appears of the engine, everything tucks under the cap and it becomes pretty much trouble-free. I had no issues.
So tell me, would you keep the it old school under the distributor cap for your restoration or give it a chip?
Keep reading my posts and you’ll eventually learn that I love engines. There is something so comforting about an 1940-1970 engine all nicely painted and sitting on a stand!!! Like this 302 from my 1970 Mustang!!
The 302
I could decorate my house with them, of course Mrs. Average Guy’s Car Restoration and Mods would have something to say about that, for sure. I would if I could!! Being so inclined, lead me to wanting to share this article out of Hemmings. Enjoy.
Last weekend’s Rogers Classic Car Museum sale in Las Vegas, Nevada, truly offered something for everyone interested in mostly postwar American automobiles. In addition to the 200-plus cars that crossed the block, the sale featured an affordable array of display engines from American automakers, covering the period from 1949 to 1966. Sold for display purposes only, most engines were incomplete and likely suffering from a variety of mechanical problems, making them potentially unsuitable for use in restorations. Unlike most display engines, none were cut away to show the inner workings of valve trains, or pistons within cylinders, or transmission gear selection. As mechanical sculpture, they were interesting pieces, guaranteed to spark conversation, and ideal centerpieces for a finished garage or rec room.
1954 Mercury 256 CID
Dodge Red Ram Hemi
Chase the link below to see the rest of the article and pictures.
Maybe more elbow grease on the hard plastic but I don’t know about the fake leather.
