Progress is moving along with #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73 – what will be it’s new hash tag when it’s mostly done).
I’ll be focusing on the interior for a bit. As you’ve seen the floors were done some time ago with patch panel installed and a layer of heat and sound proofing and new carpet. I have the headliner to do (which I’m not looking forward too!!) and some dash work including these:
Mach I triple gauge center dash panel. I have a set of working gauges for it as well!!
One of the more time consuming is re-upholstering the sets so I’m tackling that while I’m still on break from teach, which really doesn’t give me much time (my district starts back in mid July), of course with all the on going issues (COVID19 and other stuff) we’ll see what happens.
Here is my introduction and quick plug for TMI, super quality products and the beginning of the work on the rear seat for my ’73 Stang.
I really wanted to show the work on #ProjectSportsRoof. But a few things made that difficult. Top of that list was the 20 stitches gash I put in my knee, while trying to loosen the bolts on the bracket for the caliper.
So I’m piecing together some clips to include a couple of tips for installing the new calipers. So hang on this ride will be a little….choppy!!!
Check out the video:
More coming up on the front brakes replacement and more!
Every good saga needs an ending….even if it’s just terminated without a related solution.
So it is with #ProjectSportsRoof (my ’73 Mustang) brake saga. This all started when Bill – (#ProjectBeepBeep date) came over to help dial in the carb and timing on my 351 Cleveland. We discovered brake issues after taking the Mustang couple test drives. Front brake seemed to be doing all the work. It was clear that brakes need to be bumped up on the list of things “needing doing”.
Gathering all the parts was easy enough. As you now know that’s not true, the rear end had been frankenstein’ed and shoes were the main issue.
After thinking it over and I decided to go a different direction. Since the fronts were disc why not go disc in the back as well. I started hunting around for prices and options.
There is a lot out there in the back of my head was Bill’s fabulous adventure with converting #ProjectBeepBeep to disc. Prices very and so do configurations. There is even a set up where you have small set of brake shoes that perform the emergency brake function and the disc brakes. Like this:
There were also those that allowed the disc to handle the emergency braking.
I checked out all brands and all type. As I was looking a downloaded PDF from Master Power Brakes, I saw these:
Rear Drum Brake Conversion Kit: Legend Series Deciding to keep drum brakes on the rear of your vehicle is not a bad thing. What is a bad thing is not upgrading them to a system that makes sense. Our rear drum upgrade kit utilizes a large 11 inch drum, all new components and 1-1/8 inch wheel cylinders giving disc brake feel without the expense.
I have nothing against drum brake as they function (of course changing pads is easier then changing shoes). My 1970 Mustang used them just fine, even at the drag strip:
So read up a little more and decided to go with the Master Power Brakes’
Ford Mustang Rear Drum Brake Conversion Kit for Ford 9″- Legend Series.
Here’s a video:
These will bolt (you have to pull the axles) and they are 11″.
One side arrived already.
I think it was a good choice. I’d love to show you the installation but I’m not. Pulling the axles is a messy job and outside temps are normally in the 100’s here in So. Az. It’ll need new seals and bearing, so #ProjectSportsRoof is going into the shop next week.
But don’t worry I have a few posts on the install of the new calipers for the front disc coming up.
If you stopped by to see a video on measuring for brake shoes, you’ll have to read instead. I was pretty frustrated at the time and my selection of verbiage would have been Rate R. Sometime a story is best told through pic only.
I’m not inventing something new, merely showing where I went sideways and what I should have done.
For the record, most you know, I went with what the all the parts books said were the proper size, 10 in x 2 in. Again, I took a quick measurement and it looked to be 10 in.
Here is what I should have done.
Measure the back plate.
yeah….11 inches not 10!
Inside Diameter
I captured my mistake on camera – just wee bit off not 2″ but 1.75″.
These are the measurement I should have taken.
So the story dragged on with the ordering of shoes for a Ford Galaxy – they were huge and finally finding the 11 in x 1.75 in from a 1973 Bronco. That was it!! They were the right size….even brought the old shoe with me and matched them at the store.
Insert huge sigh
I installed them…almost. Here’s why that didn’t work.
Old shoe is on the top and it’s tapered.
Here is a closer look.
That little bit of taper was key to getting the brake shoe under the shoe retainer washer.
The width of the new brake shoe was too side and forced the washer (times referred to a shoe guide plate) too far out on the pin and left no room for both springs and the auto adjuster.
So my solution failed. What’s next? Maybe a different direction for #ProjectSportsRoof?
Rear shocks required a bit of “extra” work to install and sadly a few of natures creatures, need to find a new home. Take a look:
Now I doubt that I’ve impressed upon the spiders to permanently relocate, perhaps with a it of training I can get them to at least clean up the undercarriage a bit.
#ProjectSports Roof now has all new shocks. There is still so much to do…coming up next brakes and upholstery.
There is nothing easy about lining up new car door hinges. Doors are heavy and getting them aligned is a major undertaking….but Bill’s got a better way.
In this posting. Bill lays out a great process for changing door hinges using his 68 Road runner #ProjectBeepBeep as his patient.
There are a host of tips in this video. A must watch!
Bill’s correct, the drivers door hinges on #ProjectSportsRoof are bad. But now that he has perfected the art of door hanging, I’ll borrow his expertise and this Rest Door Hanger for getting the Mustang’s door perfect!!!
Well protected against damaging the paint
floor jack with cradle removed and door support tool the Steck EZ Rest Door Hanger
Coming up Bill gives a few tips on painting your hinges.
I’ve finally put the fuel issues to bed with fuel line insulated, crushed line repaired, fuel pump upgraded and now a new carb. Through the process I’ve eliminated vapor lock – video proof showed the issue was with the carb float. Final analysis is that the float was cracked, filled with fuel and failed to control the level of fuel in the bowl.
Now the new carb is 1406 Edelbrock which is a downgrade from 800 CFM to 600 CFM (1413 Edelbrock). The #ProjectSportsRoof is running well. However, I don’t think I’ll leave it with the the 600. The 800 was in bad shape. Maybe only 60 miles on it, but it sat for too long, with bad fuel and just cleaning it up didn’t work. Some say the 800 is too much for the 351C but I noticed a difference between the two carb so the 800 it going back for a professional rebuild and it will end up back on the SportsRoof.
Here is the removal of the 800 and the installation of the 600.
There is still a lot coming up on Average Guys Car Restoration. Bill had some hinge work on #ProjectBeepBeep and there a lot more on #ProjectSportsRoof.
Welcome back to #ProjectSportsRoof, my RARE (snicker) 1973 SportsRoof Mustang (#SR73).
I’m catching up on the fuel issue with my 351 Cleveland.
I didn’t notice but in the last posting at the very end of the video when I’m attempting to start the car there is an issue with the carb. I totally didn’t catch it at the time nor did I see it in the video.
I really struggled with trying get a video on the removal and installation of the new Speedmaster Fuel pump. One of the hazards of working on a ‘semi-cool’ car like my Mustang – outside in the driveway, is that neighbors love to peek in on the status and of course chat. The installation had some many interruptions that the video was choppy and salvageable. I had some misgivings about the Speedmaster pump, more exactly the lack of support – no instructions for adjusting the configuration(which required disassembly to accommodate different applications and no specs on the fittings required). I did managed to get few tips and the after math. Here’s what it looked like:
So clearly it was not the fuel pump nor was it vapor lock but in fact it was the floats. I tackle the those in next post!
Thanks for checking in on #ProjectSportsRoof (#SR73).
