I love car art…anything from poster, to quality prints to cartoonish drawings.
On my wall in my office here at home I have 4 beautiful pieces done by Robert Hooper. We ran into him in Prescott, Az and at a street fair and, I just have to have these pieces.
I can’t them off the wall and scan them. So you’ll just have to stop by and see them….little joke there. I tried to capture them with the digital. Not great…but here ya go.
Next
Next
And the last of Mr. Hooper’s
I like these.
I really like this next one in particular…why? It’s an image of the interior of my Mustang. Let me know what you think. This one hangs up in my office at work. Little washed out as posted here but much better in person.
You have a piece of car art? Let’s hear about. Drop a note, post a pic or email an image to me and I’ll put up on the blog.
As I slowly start to bring this blog back to the core of why I created this blog (Restoration, Modifying, Race..etc) I’ll begin to post some restoration tips. This will be things I’ve actually done, or friends have done that I know worked.
So here is one:
Most of the old cars with manually roll down windows have felt window seals. You know, the two cushions on either side of the door that the window slide up between. Those are normally rubber with felt covering and over time they get hard and shrink. The next thing you now you have water in the bottom of your door. That water will rust your car, even in Tucson, AZ where I live.
I don’t know if you are like me but I drive my cars, no garage babies or trailer queens and I drive them while they are in the middle of being restored…..erk…as long as they are safe to do so (had to through that in there…just in case!!!). This means they get wet, although here in AZ, it’s mainly from a weekly washing, it’s still water. I bring this up because, besides the door felt leaking, other rubber areas can leak as well. The very thing that makes AZ so great, the abundance of sunshine, can be harmful to your car. Sure it’s great for getting a tan and raising cactus… not so great for plastic and rubber parts of your car.
I know this because I had a problem with my Mustang and a rear window leak. Water would puddle up (slightly) in the trunk. If you are familiar with the older cars you’ll know that many of the trunks have a drop off on each side of the trunk floor that leads to the side lamps. This forms a nice little well in the bottom of the rear quarter panels and water collects there. Where water collects, water rusts….ya don’t need a degree in chemistry to figure that out.
So now I have water in both my doors and both of my quarter panels. NOT GOOD!!!!! Some cars were built with in drains in the quarter panels…my Mustang has them. However, if you remember back a few post (errkkk….Hey if you are new to my blog…go back and read the older posts..there’s some good stuff there…) I mentioned that my Mustang was rear ended. During the major reconstruction the body shop left debris in the quarters and it plugged the drain. Unprofessional, for sure (we’ll talk more about picking the right place to have the work done in another post), and dangerous.
So make sure you check this area out and keep the drains unplugged.
Now I went a step further…I took an 1/8 inch drill bit and added a couple extra holes in the doors and quarter to ensure that air gets in there and the water can get out.
Ok..anyone freaking out yet?? Good!!! I placed these where they can’t be seen (unless you are laying on your back with the door open in the very bottom of the door between the weather-stripping and the outside of the door, where it meets the rocker panel. And in the quarter panels I just drilled in the 1/4 space that is the width of the bottom.
I took a very small round file and smoothed the holes up and then took a little touch up paint to them.
Works like a dream and but you still have to check them and ensure they don’t plug up.
Here in Tucson we have a lot of road construction and as is the case with most states in the union, suffering some budget issues, so maintaining our roads is a bit lacking. Put these two things together and you have a lot of debris lying around the road.
Over the course of the last 3 weeks two incidents have taken a toll on the undercarriage of the CINC_Household’s car….)erk…..CINC is a military term meaning “Commander in Charge”). Seems a pieces of metal ended up in the front wheel well and snapped off the clips holding the plastic lining. That one had to go to the dealership for repair. Just last week the CINC couldn’t miss what appeared as a bent hub cap on a highway and this destroyed the plastic covering underneath the engine compartment.
So my task today is to replace that piece along with the sound proofing.
Need to get that done this morning, because apparently, although totally beautiful outside right now, we are in for some nasty weather this afternoon. I’ll post up some pictures of the work later on. Yes…I know…not a classic car and not a muscle car..but it’s got 305 hp w/ automatic slap shifting transmission….it can get out of its own way!!!! And one day…I’m sneaking it out of the garage and taking to a test-n-tune.
OK we are getting down to the wire. I have only two entries for determining who wins a $25.00 gift card to Checkers and the $25.00 gift card to Home Depot.
Drop a line and send a picture and you could get 25 bucks..hey it ain’t the lottery….but it’s free!!!!
So here are my cars’ values as calculated by my formula. The formula was the Purchase price (P) plus the Restoration and or Modification costs (R) plus or minus the condition (mean calculation of the differences between the various conditions) (C) plus sentimental value (Z)
P + R (+/-) C + Z = values.
The Mustang
Purchased it for $6,000
Restoration/Modification costs: $20,000
According to the Old Car Price Guide the average difference between the various conditions was $4320. So I start at 0 for the middle range which would be a Condition 4. I think it’s a 3 so I added $4320. So………..
Condition: $4320
Sentimental: $1000
Plug the numbers into the formula: $6,000.00 + $20,000 + $4,320 + $1000 = $31320
Using the NADA book prices the forumla looks like this: $6,000.00 + $20,000 + $4,683 + $1000 = $31683
For the Corvette the formulas look like this: note…I only traded the for the corvette, so I’m estimating the value of the Celica as $4,000
Old Car Price Guide: $4,000.00 + $10,000 + $5184 + $2000 = $21,184
As we all know our government has a fair amount of regulatory control over the auto industry some of it good, some questionable.
One fact that I didn’t know was the in the early eighties the government thought that a good way to have the masses slow down on our nations freeways was to limit the numbers shown on the analog speedometers. So the decision was made to show only 85 mph. I’m not sure how many auto makers complied but I know in the Corvette GM did…sort of.
As many Corvette guys know, the 1984 Corvette, the first year of the C4 cars, the dash display was all digital with graphs displaying the RPM’s and the MPH’s. And sure enough the analog portion of the speedometer topped off at 85 MPH. The graph would run up to the top the display and stop. But there was a additional functionality. There was also a digital component to the RPM and MPH displays. This functionality would show the actual speed. That’s how GM got around the government control. I’ve tested this, of course and I’ve had my 84 Vette up to 174 mph with the number showing up brightly on the dash.
Thanks for reading.
Drop me a comment. If there is something you want to discuss…story to tell…post it up.
Ok… so this is not rocket science but I think this is a good way to approach determining the value of your car.
This might not be what the market will bare but it is the value. There are some hard numbers and some not so hard numbers, we’ll call those variables. (I’m computer programmer turned IT project manager, but still love the logic of math and coding.)
Always consider the original purchase of your car. What did you pay for it? That’s a hard number. Lets set the variable to “P” for purchase price. I’m an average guy with an average income, so you know I didn’t spend the gross national product of a small island country on my Mustang, plus it’s a coupe, so you get the picture. “Tell them the price!!”…”No..No…I won’t”….”Come on!!!”…”Ok fine!!!” So I paid $6,000 dollars for the Mustang with the straight 6 (250) engine and lots of girlie molding. “There you happy?”….”Yea but could have left the girlie part out”….”Whatever.” So you can see that depending on which price guide you use I over paid for the car right there.
Next you are going to have add the really scary hard number, the cost of restoration/modification. Yeah..I know..I don’t want to add them up either, but you have too. So keep a stiff upper lip, grab the grease smeared, finger print stained receipt folder (I keep mine in this small plastic box in the garage..don’t want in falling into the wrong hands…not that SWMBO [she who must be obeyed] wasn’t aware of the individual expenditures, it’s just the shock of see it all together, that can, I admit, stop the a heart beating for at least 30 seconds.) fire up that solar-powered calculator and have at it. We’ll label this variable “R”. As if that number might not be big enough toss in the maintenance if you drive it a lot.
Now the next variable is a soft number. It’s condition and determining it as subjective as picking the prettiest girl in the bar. You know which ones aren’t and then it becomes a matter of degrees for the others. (Any one offended? Any one?..Ok good!) Hemmings often displays a description in the front of most of their auction pieces that explain a useful rating of numbers with pluses and minuses. Example: 1+ or 2- like that. Once you can arrive at the condition we need to set that as a variable. We’ll label that one ‘C’ and it can be a negative or positive, in our equations. As you read this, you are going, yeah..but how much the condition worth? Here is my idea. Use at least two pricing guides and take the differences in value between the various condition levels, average it out and you end up with the average increase in value. Start out by calling your car average and the value as zero add the amount as the condition betters or subtract for every position it lowers.
You can include sentimental value and we’ll call that variable ‘Z’ and I can’t even being to tell you how to determine that number. Here is what I’d try. After adding up the hard numbers and then take the price you would honestly live with and subtrack the hard numbers and add the difference back in to the final value.
So to recap:
P = the purchase price
R = the restoration and or modifications costs
C = Condition
Z = Sentimental value.
Formula looks like this: P + R + C + Z = value.
Remember – this is a value – not what the market will hold. For insurance purposes you must drop the Z variable.
Ok…Tomorrow I’ll run the numbers for both of my cars and see how I fair.
