At some point I’ve promised myself I would cover the restoration stories that center around my 1970 Mustang. There is a lot to tell, trust me!! I’ve learned a lot!!!
Engine - Before (250)
Engine After - (302)
But for this Wrenchin’ Tip, I’d thought I’d share a few hints that I did pick up. Just to be fair I didn’t do a lot of the engine swap work myself (Average Guy w/ average tool and average skills) but I learned a lot of general helpful hints and some Mustang specific helpful hints!!!
So here are a couple of tips:
1. Planning and scheduling a restoration is important. If you are doing an engine swap or pulling it out for an overhaul make this the first step in your restoration. Yes, I’ve seen the TV shows where they put the engine after the car is back from the body shop. But hey this is the real world, and in this world, money is tight and body work is expensive enough not to what to afford to re-do it. In this world, my average guy world, wrenches slip, grease stains and sometimes swinging 400 lb engine at the end of a chain can be…well…a bit dicey.
2. Before preparing the engine for removal, you know, disconnecting all the electrical, fuel, A/C, vacuum system, etc., take the hood off and store it someplace safe. You’ll have a ton of room and you won’t bounce that shiny, newly painted engine against it.
3. Test fit the headers before you install the engine, especially if you aren’t putting stock headers back on. You need to check the clearances around them and ensure you can get to key components , such as starters, after the engine is completely installed. Nothing is more insane that having to pull an engine or headers just to replace your starter. Here is a pic of my Mustang’s engine with all the attachments.
This isn’t my normal “on this date back in…” factoid. This one is current.
8/6/2010
At the VW Automóveis Ltda. plant in Portugal today the hundred-thousandth third-generation Scirocco rolled off the production line. Since its launch in 1974, this compact sports coupe has been the most successful Volkswagen two-door with more than 800,000 sold to date. Another notable Giugiaro coupe is the breathtaking beautiful Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint.
These cars were a hot item in the use for a short while.
7/26/1945 Kaiser-Frazer Corp organized – it also include what was left of Graham-Paige car manufacturer. Frazer Nash was a British car making company. In 1953 it became just Kaiser Motors.
1946 Kaiser Nast Sedan
1953 Kaiser Darrin Convertible
7/29/1916 Nash Motor Company as founded by Charles Nash when he purchased a company called Jeffery Company which made a car called the Rambler. I bet you can guess what came eventually American Motors and their Rambler.
Oh..in 1909 Buick purchased Cadillac on the 29th day.
8/3/1900 The Firestone rubber company was founded by Harvey Firestone. It was based in Akron, Ohio and had only 12 employees. Six years later Mr. Henry Ford contracted with Firestone to supply tires for the Model T.
8/7/1937 the Cord company stopped production car, but of course when one to build planes etc.
Before we start, I’d like the readers to know that these segments will not be an all-encompassing reference effort. But I will have details that might not be well-known and some long forgotten. Hopefully, it will be fun to read and informative. The first few segments will be engines I’m familiar with. I’ve owed a lot of cars and at least one of the Big 3 (Chevy, Ford, Chrysler) and all with different engines (and one with two). First engine I am going to tackle is the 318. I owned a Dodge Dart in the mid to last of 1970’s and it did have the 318 manual transmissions and at this very moment I can’t recall the other specs, but I’ll find them in this research. It that a great engine and simple to work on.
I’ve heard it mentioned that the 318 was Chryslers’ 350 (referring to GM’s 350, that’s been in existence for… just about forever…no it hasn’t but that’s another segment). Of course the 318 didn’t have near the run that the 350 has, but it’s got some pretty interesting history of its own.
Let’s start with when the first 318 was used in a MOPAR car and what followed that up. We’ll also look at some specs and some configurations it came in, you know carbs, cams and the like.
In the 1958 Plymouth the 230 c.i.d Powerflow Six was used as the standard engine, same as the previous year. Chrysler did have V8s that were a possible option in 1957 and 1958, namely 301 and 277 cid. However, it’s believed that the 318 was to replace the 277 c.i.d and the 301 V8s as the car maker moved toward try to capture a larger market. The 318 had 9.25 to 1 compression ratio with 225 horses, it became the standard V8 used in the Plaza, Savoy, and Belvedere. Perhaps the most powerful configuration you could get at the time was called the 318 Dual Fury (Sport Fury) V8 aka the Super-Pack rated at 290 horsepower; the dual was for the two 4 barrel carbs. The rest of the configuration included solid lifters, high performance cam, dual point distributor and dual exhausts.
The drive specs for the 1958 (which was a great looking car)
’58 Fury
shows that the standard block of for the Fury was the 318. You could add the sport fury to it and go from 225 horses to displacing 350 cid and producing 305 hp, with 2 Carter, 4bbl carbs. The nickname for the engine was the “Golden Commando” and it was paired up with TorqueFlite auto trans.
Oh, by the way 1958 Ply Fury was the star of the Stephen King book entitled “Christine” and later the movie.
There is a lot of talk, even today about the Hemi, “Yo..dat got ah Hemi?” It was a great design. But we won’t talk about the Hemi in this article, but we will mention the polyspheric cylinder head. What is a ployspheric cylinder head? That was a question asked by one of my frequent readers and this was my reply.
Poly is short for Polyspherical head. Some say it was a forerunner to the Hemi (Hemispherical head). Basically it was based on a theory that you could get more combustion or volume by angling the intake and exhaust valves then if you had them parallel. From Hemmings Motor News book of Chrysler Performance Cars…”The ploy’s exhaust valve is located parallel to, but offset from, the cylinder axis.”
This increased the efficiency. The hemi was constructed and designed to increase the efficiency with a more angled system. The shape that the valves make are semi-circular with the Poly being a little flatter than the Hemi. I did the below image in Paint.
Poly-Hemi
This image is from Hot Rod and Hemis.com and shows the Hemi, Poly and the regular A series engine chambers.
www.hotrodandhemis.com Compare Hemi, Poly, Series A
Plymouth was not the top of the brand at Chrysler so back in 1956 it didn’t get a Hemi. It did get was called the A series engine which came in 4 different displacement (277, 301, 303 and the 318).
7/20/1984 E.L. Cord was in Missouri. If you think he’s only responsible for the Cord
1937 Cord
Think again!!!! How about a company that included Stinson Aircraft, Checker Cab and American Airways (now American Airlines)? But let’s just stay with the cars. How about the Auburn and Duesenberg? His history is a good read.
7/23/1894 first auto race. It was organized by the Parisian magazine “Le Petit Journal” between the Paris to Rouen. And the winner was………… Count Jules-Albert de Dion it took 6 hours and 48 minutes at an average speed of 19 km/h (which was approximately 11.806052652509345 p/h). I don’t know what he drove but 2nd places was taken by George Lamaitre and he drove a Peugeot:
Peugeot 3 hp
7/24/1929 – 2, 000,000 Model A Ford built – A huge milestone.
As long as you are on the subject what the heck is the difference between a regular 318 and a poly 318?
Poly is short for Polyspherical head. Some say it was a forerunner to the Hemi (Hemispherical head). Basically it was based on a theory that you could get more combustion or volume by angling the intake and exhaust valves then if you had them parallel. From Hemmings Motor News book of Chrysler Performance Cars…”The ploy’s exhaust valve is located parallel to, but offset from, the cylinder axis.”
This increased the efficiency. The hemi was constructed to increase the efficiency with a more angled system. The shape that the valves make are semi-circular with the Poly being a little flatter than the Hemi. I did the below image in Paint.
Poly and Hemi
Thanks for the question Steve!!! More to come on the 318.
If you’ve been reading my “stuff” on this blog or Facebook or Racing in America http://www.racinginamerica.com/ (Henry Ford foundation) you might wonder…what’s wrong with this guy? Does he write for a living? Well if I did I’d be starving and driving a 1993 Honda Accord with only one plastic hub cap (that’s really my son’s car…he’s a starving artist – I have a plug for him on my blog – RJS Graphic design – he’s pretty good and he won’t strave..Mom won’t have any of that!!) instead of a shiny red 84 Corvette and restored 70 Mustang. I do it for fun, I haven’t made a single dollar from any of my writing. I don’t even have sponsors or advertisers for the places I leave my droppings. Actually this costs me money!!!!
So…yes..I do this for fun and the very informal approach I take…..eeeerrrrkkkkk…..ok folks…I don’t have an approach..real writers do. The way I like to do this is to just sit down and type…there’s no drafts, unless I save it to finish later, there is no real planning,(hell my poor readers are lucky if I remember to run spell check!!!) other than a Post-It-Note or an email sent to myself when I get an idea. Nope, I just sit down and type. If it is on a project I’m working, I sometimes take a break and with the fresh smell of GoJo still on my hands I just start typing and up loading pics. 99.999% of my blogs are done in one sitting. Type and post. (Sometimes I re-read them…mostly to laugh at my super great witt…HEY!!!!! DID YOU JUST ROLL YOUR EYES????!!!! That’s rude!!!)
So I have a list of ideas and one of them was to start a regular piece on engines (I mentioned this a while back.) But man, there’s a lot of stuff out there and great publishing works like the Hemmings nation and Hot Rod magazine do this all time. Am I going to add some thing never before discussed? Nope. Am I going to present it in way that nobody ever has? Well the way I write, yeah probably, no one write like this I don’t think.
My idea was to talk about an engine and include when it was first introduced and what it was used in and for how long, that kind of info. I’m a big fan of history, history of anything, buildings, streets, towns, cars, really anything that as a little history, I’m interested in hearing about.
So my issue was I just hadn’t sat down and picked one yet to write about. I was going to do the Ford 302, the engine my Mustang has, or the Crossfire in the Corvette and I will. But the other day I got my September issue of Classic Car #72 from the Hemmings nation and on the cover was “12 Dynamic Dodge Darts Fun Cars that you must own”. That triggered a memory of the Dodge Dart I owned when I was in college, I think owned it about 5 months..just long enough to remove all the rust and patch the holes and get it into primer before selling it.
As I read the articles in this issue, I remembered the 318 that my Dart had in and as I read further I decided to kick my series off with Mopar’s 318.
So over the next few posts I have some interesting details on configurations and various cars it was used in and some specs. I’ll try to remember to list the references so you can look up additional info.
Here’s my story of using household items to fix cars. Kinda like a turkey baster tool. Ha Ha.
Finally solved the fuel boil over problem on the 82 Cougar wagon with an inline six and 1 bbl carb.
I live and drive mostly above 2,000 feet and with the fuel blending today the fuel in the carb bowl will boil over and come out the fuel vent in the carb throat, pooling in the intake manifold causing a flooded condition resulting in hard starting when the engine is hot with the huge plume of black smoke when it did start. I’ve tried all manner of fixes that included: lowering the float, retarding the timing, advancing the timing and investigating whether the manifold, catalytic converter or the exhaust was restricted in some way. I built a heat shield out of aluminum and tried that. Some people had suggested using a thicker carb base gasket or even doubling the gasket which would have required longer mounting studs for the carb. Since it hasn’t been a daily driver in the summer due to a broken a/c I’ve put off the fix. I tried to find a phenolic material to make a carb base spacer for the carb that would insulate it from the heat with no luck.
Finally my wife went to Wal-Mart and bought a plastic cutting board for me on my request. It’s made from a hard polyethylene material that’s just over 7/16″ thick. So, I did the obvious scientific test on the material. I got the car to operating temperature and held the cutting board to the exhaust manifold and it did not melt. So I cut the board, drilled the carb bore hole with a 1 and 7/8″ hole saw, drilled the stud holes, made a thin gasket for both sides of the material and sealed it with red high temp permatex gasket maker and installed my new base plate. To test I drove the car in 108 degree heat to full operating temperature for 10 miles with the now fixed a/c blowing hard and the boil over problem is gone. There is no longer any fuel smell or hard starting when hot due to fuel in the intake manifold. Finally after almost 8 years this annoying problem is fixed. I don’t know why this material insulates so well over the factory thick gasket but it does.
The material doesn’t seem to be affected by fuel either.
I’m sure others have been baffled by this problem since most fuels today contain ethanol and other materials that lower the boiling temperature of gasoline. Altitude certainly plays a part as my car never did this at sea level even in 100 degree weather.
I recently did some work on my power steering system found this tool to be handy.
There is a lot of fluid in the power steering reservoir. As soon as you release the hoses, it’s going to poor all over the front of your engine and then on the ground. An oil change tub will help keep it off the garage floor, no staining and no tracking it around. However, it will still run down the engine.
So, I used a turkey baster. EEEERRRKKK…(yeah it’s in caps!!!) Do not put it back in the kitchen when you’re done….NO…NO..NO….In fact if you are smart, ask first!!! I did and I was surprised to hear “Sure, but you’ll have to purchase a replacement.” For a minute I thought….well that’ll come out of my car budget….and I thought…I wonder if I can clean it up…and…ummm…(kidding of course). It worked great and I just have to purchase one…but not until Thanksgiving!!!! $10 bucks says..I’ll forget and have to run out on Thanksgiving and stand in line for 1.25 hours, if I can find one at all.
BTW – I recommend “Pampered Chef” brand for power steering fluid removal!!!!
As I stated in my last post, the molded hose for the power steering unit is no longer made. So here is an idea that can be used to get around that problem for really just about any regular hose for just about any use. As long as the diameter is correct you can you use metal pipe for the molded portion of the hose. My plan was to remove the shaped hose and take it to a shop that specialize in shaping pipe or least as a sideline to their metal work business. They can normally create any shape. After that is shaped, you can use straight hose on each end to attach to the fittings. You’ll need two additional hose clamps. This is made easier if you have the metal shop slightly grind down the ends to slide into the rubber hose ends.
Pls note that you have to be sure that metal is proper for the area you are going to use it in and for the fluid that is going to pass through it.
So that was my plan for replacing the discontinued hose. I typed “was” because as I got into the project I realised that particular hose was not necessary to replace. This was a stroke of luck, because it would have taken a few days with the Corvette apart to get that accomplished.
I’m going to give you a heads up right now. I did NOT finish this project just on my own. Nope, that whole Average skills and Average tools thing plays an important role in accomplishing projects.
I took a couple of videos and I’ll see if I can get WordPress to work better than last time and I’ll toss them in at the end of this entry.
HELPFUL HINT: There is a lot of fluid in the power steering reservoir. As soon as you release the hoses, it’s going to poor all over the front of your engine and then on the ground. An oil change tub will help keep it off the garage floor, no staining and no tracking it around. However, it will still run down the engine. So, I used a turkey baster. EEEERRRKKK…(yeah it’s in caps!!!) Do not put it back in the kitchen when you’re….NO…NO..NO….In fact if you are smart, ask first!!! I did and I was surprised to hear “Sure, but you’ll have to purchase a replacement.” For a minute I thought….well that’ll come out of my car budget….and I thought…I wonder if I can clean it up…and…ummm…(kidding of course). It worked great and I just have to purchase one…but not until Thanksgiving!!!! $10 bucks says..I’ll forget and have to run out on Thanksgiving and stand in line for 1.25 hours, if I can find one at all. BTW – I recommend “Pampered Chief” brand for power steering fluid removal!!!! The next couple of pics show where we are on the engine and the hoses.
Reservoir and it's bracket
Parts Id
The two circles indicate the two bolts that need to be, “at the least loosened” if not removed. You’ll notice that one can not be removed, unless the pulley is removed. I’m not going to take the pulley off and there lies the issue that I needed assistance with.
But I did manage to remove and check both hoses, which resulted in the determination that the discontinued molded hose was still in great shape and not a threat to leak any time soon.
Another look at where we are
Intro "Kitty" neighborhood cat that often shows up and sits in or on my cars while I work on them. Not having Thumbs, he's really no help.
A good look at the hoses. Most of the mess is not from the hose, but the cracked reservoir.
Here is at the end of the bulk hose that goes from the reservoir to the power steering pump.
Old hose 1
Old hose 2
It was in pretty bad shape.
PS pump and the mess!!!!
And here is the pic with the new hose attached. The hose had to be routed back through the reservoir bracket.
Hose Upper connection
Hose lower connection.
As it turned out the actual removal of the reservoir required the removal of some key bolts that did in fact impact the position of the alternator. As I removed the bolts I noticed the alternator shift. At the beginning I didn’t think that was possible, because there is a solid bar attached to the alternator and the engine, however it did not. I had most of the bolt out and decided that I’d better get them back in and I did except one and I should not get that one to line up.
So off I go to my favorite place down the street and I had them finish it up.
Here are some after pics.
Lower Hose connection and PS Pump
New reservoir.
Another repair down. It’s been a couple of tough months for the Corvette and her engine is going to need a good detailing, but not just yet. I have another huge modification come up…a new intake. That will be pretty soon, so keep checking back.
