I was recently talking to a coworker of mine who own a 1949 Pontiac Silver Streak Delivery Van (link – http://wp.me/pKHNM-Bx ) and we were discussing his 6 volt system and the troubles with low amperage.
Well I just ran across a couple of interesting articles dealing with that subject. Now I will tell you I am not “the guy” for electrical work – nope not me (I had a bad experience – ok – a couple of bad ones). But even this one I can understand.
Increasing the power supply often means that you need to convert to 12 volt and maybe 15 years ago yes, but now 6 volts are readily available. So here is what you do (sorry no pics)
Take two 6 volt batters and link them in parallel by connecting the two negative terminals to each other and the two positive to each other. The main positive cable goes from the positive terminal of the first battery to ground and the main negative cable is connected to the negative terminal of the second battery. Of course in some case you may have to modify the batter shelf, but it will sure help kick up the cold cranking amps.
Thanks for reading
Tim
Old cars with old wiring means resistance. But you can fight back. Check gen. output, check voltage reg output and clean clean connections.
I owned a cryogenic treating business. Track one down on the web. Have them cryo treat new plugs for you. Use Autolite and tell the no post heat tempering.
Now this is no lie. 20(+) % increase in fuel economy. No tip burn off. And best of all is a very low firing / inception voltage 1/2. The plugs will burn all the fuel you put into the cylinder so power and gpm will go up, pollution goes down. Your torque will be much stronger coming out of a turn and they are ideal for oval racing at all levels.
was thinking about the last 6 volt i drove, it was my 1933 chopped and channeled coupe with bobbed fenders a 48 merc flatty and 48 rear end. today it would be a rat rod. fun in the early 60’s. just sharing.
I won’t get into the physics too much here, but you are correct in that adding a battery in parallel increases the ‘available’ current, but only at the battery itself.
Voltage is the Electromotive Force; think of it as the ‘pressure’ in a wire. Current is the flow of coulombs; think of it as the flow through a wire.
Wires have voltage drops when current flows. The move from 6 to 12V reduced the issues with voltage drops, and actually allowed the decrease of wire guage in certain applcations.
BTW, the SAE has been proposing for years to move cars from 12 to 16, or 24V since they are now so electronic dependant, but the present ‘infastructure’ of 12V is so intrenched, all manufacturers have resisted.
From Steve (tbirdsps)
Over on Armed Forces Car Club.
I agree and disagree. Save the money on the second battery. Simply go to every terminal and ground and clean. The single battery 6 volt system is quite reliable but over the years things get old. Incomplete grounds are the biggest culprit. Make sure the gen in genning properly and the voltage regulator is “tuned” properly and all problems will go away. The big thing is it will cost nothing but time. Also all the lighting will brighten up.
The greatest addition especially if the electrical harness is old is adding battery cut off switch. Assuming that everything is then correct then a second battery is good for that below freezing morning for the additional cranking amps so I agree.
See, I agree and disagree but where I live we have about two weeks of below freezing nights. Yup, I’m spoiled. So, do the maintenance AND add the second battery.
Just my 2 cents.