Most car enthusiasts know that by the 1970’s all cars even ‘former’ muscle cars, were strangled in terms of power by a host of tubes, solenoids and funny looking flat or funnel like space age devices that were responsible for eliminating harmful emissions. In some cases they funneled fumes back in to the engine to be burned and supposedly rendering them less harmful.
When you are restoring a car of this vintage – especially one like my 1973 Mustang that has been sitting around a while, those tubes/hoses are often cracked, dried, split or ends stretched at the least for missing all together.
You have the option to remove all the space ag hardware (depending on the emissions regulations in your area) or replacing it all to restore to factory specifications. For the purpose of these series of posts let’s assume that I want to seriously limit the performance and power of #ProjectSportsRoof’s beautiful 351C and restore it back to factory configuration.
Now if you are expecting an expert run down on the care and feeding of the vacuum system for this project – you aren’t going to get that right up front. Why? Because it’s really not that straight forward at first and I have a few questions.
As I look at the diagrams for the vacuum system on a 1972 351C, I am not seeing anything that matches my set up.
Let me start back of the engine.
There is a solenoid on the back of the manifold (only bolted there) that I think is some diagrams is shown on the opposite side and in the front.
Here’s a better shot.
As you can see it has no power connected nor hoses. Is that the Solenoid Dist vacuum? I think so.
Source: www.mustangbarn.com
As you can see it’s in the front.
So the vacuum hose travels back up front to the Valve Ass. Distributor vacuum control?
Maybe because this is a A/C car the Solenoid Dist vacuum was relocated to the back, that is a lot of tubing!!
That’s the first set of questions, the front of engine is coming up next.
Tim
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression, Rods …
1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression, Rods …
I have been told that keeping the egr is a good thing as it reduces exhaust temp overall. Having siad that, I’d insure the car with a classic only insurance company which will exempt it automatically from emissions tests.
Bill – The car passed emission last year and I’ll try it again next month and see how it does. Currently it’s covered by both classic car insurance and standard (it was cheap). Easy enough to swap the to Historic plates.
Don C
Post: #2
RE: 1972 vs. 1973 351C Vacuum System
Those were added to prevent vacuum advance before the car reached a certain speed and before it reached operating temperature for emission reasons. They also tended to reduce performance, so those, along with the EGR were often bypassed.
Thanks Don,
Here in AZ the car still has to pass emission. But lets say I reg it has a historic vehicle – do you just cap them off?
Tim